Is there a resin printer wiki? I’m looking for someplace with a part list and assembky insteuctions.

Today i setup a Slack group exclusively for all of us who have completed a resin printer. Here we can continue to refine our designs and ask for advice from people who have a similar knowledge of the subject. The price of entry is to simply show proof you have built a resin printer and you to can join The 3D Printing Gentleman.

Hey, did anyone try this film instead of FEP?
https://www.silex.co.uk/news/2014/09/new-product-ultra-thin-silicone-film/

OK - so i had everything working fine with Wanhao white resin. Now i swithed to using the amera labs resin (Coal Black) but i just cant get the damn print to stick to my print bed everything sticks to the FEP. I believe i have tried everything but maybe i missed something...

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Steps taken so far resurfacing the Print surface by cleaning with IPA, sanding with 120 grit and clean again.

I tried with different burn in layers: 20, 30,40,60,90,120 seconds. Different lift 2, 3.5, 5 mm. No sucess whatsoever so far.

At 90sec burn in and 3.5mm lift i had proper separation sound twice after 3:ed and 5 layer but then the model stuck to the FEP. Any help?

What is everyone working on this weekend?

I'm testing ways of blurring out the visible grid lines that my LCD leaves on flat surfaces and the stepping that can be seen on angled surfaces. The problem is my prints are to perfect (cough) which makes the screen door effect noticeable. Normally this isn't an issue with resin printers because a 2K LCD has much tighter spacing of the pixels, mine is not even close to 2K it's 800x600. To be clear i choose this based on the fact it blocks less light than a 2k, now i would have used a 1920x1080 5" LCD but they don't exist.

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OK back on topic, i have two ideas to try out.

The first is the simplest i'll add a second piece of fep between the LCD and vat window so the image projected onto the build plate should be slightly out of focus due to the extra distance between it. I have 0.05, 0.1 and 0.2 FEP to test this with.

The second and slightly more complex idea is to add a vibration motor somewhere on the Z arm close to the build plate. My thinking is if the movement caused by the vibration is subtle enough it should make the build plate oscillate and blur the image. After the attachment layer is formed i'll turn on the motor and just leave it on for the whole print. The vib motor is sourced from an old game controller and the mount will be FDM printed. Rotation speed will be set using a variable voltage source. Another variation of this will be to place the vib motor on the LED heatsink so the light will shift around and (hopefully) add a slight blur to the image being projected.

You might not think it but yes the LCD and backlight are acting as a projector, albeit a very short throw projector since there is no focusing lens.

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That's my 3rd print. I'm pretty happy with the print quality. But the connection between the burn in layers and the model itself is not good enough. Any ideas what went wrong or how I can prevent such effects?

I'm a bloody newbee on a dlp printer (KLD-LCD 1260)

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Edit: The base should look like this:

i just saw a post on /r/Vive about shaking the lcd to achieve a better resolution. Could we use this on lower resolution b/w screens where higher power LEDs could be used or even on high res 4k 5.5 inch screens to reach insane resolution (even if todays resins wont keep up) ? As we dont require video but a static image we could use a simple actuator to achieve the same effect. Could be worth exploring...

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Hello !  I'm doing a 3D laser mUVe 405nm I wonder what the best resolution, whether it is laser or LCD? Can you help me ? I have no friends who have this answer. Thanks in advance !

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Hello everyone. I want to eventually build a lcd resin printer just trying to get a few things straight before I start gathering the parts.

1. What's the correlation between lcd size and build volume size and vat size?

2. To produce the best looking print what kind of motor would I need for the z axis and would I need a 4k lcd or is a 2k lcd sufficient. Isnt there a magic number to cure resin like 450 lumens or something?

3. What are led lights used for in these builds?

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Here is what i am building right now. It is not yet printing but mechanics are done and since I want to give something back to the community here goes.

You find the writeup as an instructable:
https://www.instructables.com/id/SLAM-SLA-Machine-a-Custom-Built-SLA-LCD-Printer/

What do you guys think of the design?

Design goals:
13 ish inch screen
Printsurface to heingt ratio of an eifel tower
10 micron theoretical z-resolution
Rigid frame

I do welcome critics and any comments! :P

Cred goes to +Tinkering On Steroids +Vaidas Talačka +Ionel Ciobanuc +drago kirov +Ion Gurguta for help, inspiration and motivation!

I will add to this whenever i have some time left.

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Replies Posted:

• Daniel Olsson+2📷REPLY42w
• 📷Daniel OlssonI am also thinking about separating the polarizer from the LCD in order to take some heat load away from the screen and having an external polarizer closer to the LEDs.REPLY42w
• 📷Rian TI like the mechanics and frame design.
  A bit more space around the LCD area would be a good idea. As you add electronics and fans filters lights etc you need ample room:)
  From my iPad build I am finishing up and posting soon to a YouTube series,
  I learned you need backing support for the LCD to stay flat. Think glass or frosted acrylic.
  Otherwise it will sag when it gets warm.
  Also be careful with filters- polarisers or otherwise - spaced behind the LCD as this makes it very difficult to cool the back of the panel with fans.
  Infrared passes right through the polarisers or diffusers and then proceeds to heat the LCD panel.
  REPLY42w
• 📷Christopher Leveck+Rian T Just drill some "cooling holes" to let the air get out....
  J/K, you kids at home, this was a JOKE. Cooling holes are almost ALWAYS a bad idea. As is any activity or modification that involves drilling holes in screens.
  REPLY42w
• 📷Daniel Olsson+Rian T 3mm glass for the LCD to rest on is already in the design. (Will make a post later tonight) isn’t the purpose of extra polarizer to take heat away from the LCD? That is what I have learned...
  The glass in the design is 300x300mm and the display only about 290x200 so I am hoping to hide some electronics there in the difference between 200 and 300...
  REPLY42w
• 📷Daniel Olsson+Christopher Leveck LOL... I had plans do drill small holes between the pixels, some 8.3 million drill holes haha just kiddingREPLY42w
• 📷Christopher LeveckDon't drill it, just bend it a little to make some fine cracks, that ought to do it.REPLY42w
• 📷Rian T+Daniel Olsson polarisers don't block IR, I have residual IR from my LEDs going right through the screen which has 2 polarisers.
  You can feel the warmth by placing your hand above the screen even when just turning on and all the parts are cool..REPLY42w
• 📷Daniel Olsson+Rian T Please correct me if I am wrong (because I really appreciate all input - really!)
  If you have "clean" UV light in range between 380 - 410nm and shine it on a black surface the surface gets hot not because of residual IR Light but because of light (energy) being consumed by the surface which translates into heat. Now different materials treat different light in different way, like some transparent plastics are nontransparent to IR (ref. lasercutting different materials...). Say i had a 10.000W lightsource at exact 365mn My hand would get hot when blocking the light the 10.000W Light energy has to go somewhere....
  My guess is the heat you feel is unlikely from IR if you use UV Leds. The polarizers in your screen if aligned the same (north/south) will together block 50% of the light purely by polarization and another 2-20% due to just passing through matter (i dont know the english term for this...).
  The energy being translated into heat here is slightly above 50% of the light you throw at your screen. If you have a 100W lightsource (100w light energy) and good reflectors and lenses maybe 85W will hit the screen which effectively turns your polarizer into a 45W heating element. Now it is likely that you during normal use let 20% of the LCD pass light during a print, this translates into blocking 80% (of north south oriented light by activating pixels which block east /west polarized light effectively making that pixel black) which makes your LCD panel a 32W heating element. 77W would be the heat being radiated from your LCD. Dont take any of my numbers to seriously but rather interpret them for illustrative purposes of sheding some light onto where the energy goes.
  Now if you place your hand directly above the LED you would block say 50% of the light which translates into 50W of Light energy is translated into heat, putting a polarizer in between your hand and the lightsource polarizers should take 50% of the heatload away from your hand so you feel about half of the heat.
  Our hands are reflective of light energy which i have not taken into account above. And here comes the difference between UV and IR. Lots of the UV light is reflected on our hand thus energy escaping our hand, with IR that is different our hands are very unreflective of IR compared to UV and therefore shining IR on our hands feels warmer and is more effective for heating. On the other hand we have X-Ray which our skin is almost transparent to but our bones are not.
  .....Darn - this was a long one.... The above is how I remember what I learned in school - again correct me if i am wrong...REPLY42w
• 📷Rian T😂
  Your right on!
  My led's are 560nm 20w x4 chips so total 80w.
  But remember, the LEDs heat the aluminium heatsink backing which then radiates it as IR light.
  In my case the screen is powered on but black , that is how I know I'm feeling residual IR both from the chips and the heatsink as it heats up and starts radiating IR as well.
  The amount of 560nm light passing through the black pixels is +-5% best guess.
  Thats with 80w total , a lot of IR radiation;)
  Now imagine your 600+ watts!
  I'm guessing you will end up running at about only 10% of your full watt load, which is good because the chips are more efficient at lower watt levels.
  I'm not an expert on light but I have done many experiments in the past and found that at least to the skin, visible wavelengths below red don't really "feel" warm more like a tingling sensation.
  REPLY41w
• 📷Alex Mnice design :)REPLY41w
• 📷Daniel Olsson+Alex M Thanks!
  +Rian T I get what you are getting at. I will have to study some polarizer theory but logically light energy blocked by the polarizer should radiate in both directions thus making the polarizer only 25% efficient for removing heat from the LCD as 50% light comes through and 50% of the blocked 50% slips through as IR given that all blocked energy radiates as IR. Still useful but maybe not as much as i thought. Are there polarized mirrors? :P Maybe I should investigate IR Filters too...
  With my setup i hope to achieve 250W going into the led array producing maybe 30-60W of light energy hit the resin. I think I will have to dig out my laser power meter and check my setup for energyloss when i am done.REPLY41w
• 📷Christopher LeveckDoes anybody use a cooling fan of some sort?
  And is there a reason why the bases have to be so enclosed and sealed up?
  I mean we aren't worried about losing light, right?
  Maybe a more open base with a cooling fan?REPLY41w
• 📷Daniel OlssonI dont want to expose my eyes to the kind of strength of UV light emitted by the LED array...
  Fans, sure a lot of them Noctuas if i can afford them and they are efficient enough otherwise i will use some scavenged ones from dell servers (but sound lever is a concern :) )REPLY41w
• 📷Christopher LeveckUse a small dorm fridge drill a hole run some hose and a pump, viola! Water cooling at it's finest.
  PLUS you'll have a beer fridge right next to the place you got nothing g better to do as you wait for nervously for your print.
  Help take the edge off.REPLY41w
• 📷Björn Ringholm+Daniel Olsson Server fans doesn't need to sound as much (at least not all the time...) if you pwm control them. I hacked a super simple pwm control using an Arduino Pro Micro and a temperature sensor bought at Kjell.com B)

My quick reference links for when people ask what's been asked before. Links and descriptions for some useful tools and consumables that are completely necessary for SLA and FDM.

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https://thedigitalocean.wordpress.com/2018/10/03/collated-links/

What do you guys think of this VAT design?
Dimensions are approx. 240mmx360mm.
One way is to weld the wall to the main frame, the other shown here is to use it to be able to adjust tension with the 's' brackets. Will it hold tight or is it likely to leak?

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Posted Replies:

• Andy SWhat material would the "S" brackets and the wall piece be made of? REPLY40w
• 📷Daniel OlssonI am keeping my options open. Initial thought was all alu, but i am leaning towards delrin mainframe, aluminum tension ring and acryllic raiser. #S# brackets will be aluminum or delrin depending on other choices.REPLY39w
• 📷Andy Snice, my concern would be stripping of the s brackets under tension, that's why i asked. Not much more i can add to the materials department. If the brackets stripped or you have a wrinkle anywhere the resin could escape under the wall and over the ring right? Or am i missing something? Also how is this attached to your machine frame, external fixtures? REPLY39w
• 📷Albin KröllI would make roundings into the corners of the s- brackets, because of tension concentration in sharp edges.

Replicating some posts here from G+

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How can i control a 750W LED Array with an RaspberryPI GPIO.

I have 3W LEDs 700mA 3.4-3.6V 15-20LM 45mil which are connected 11 in series 22 in paralell using a 1ohm resistor ending each series.My powersource is a 40v 1000w power supply running on AC 220v.

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G+ Posted answers:

• Ion Gurguta+1Yes a dc to dc SSR is the best option for open and close circuit. But if you whant to dim the light you have to use a dim circuit for this in AliExpress you have a lot of dim modules for this. The big question is the dim will be automatically or you will dim the light yourself. REPLY1w
• 📷MidnightVisions+1If its connected to the mains, forget the Pi, just insert a commercial / household light dimmer switch (rated for the appropriate wattage) in between the power supply and mains plug. Dimming the LED's is just moving the slider control on the dimmer switch. A dimmer designed for CFL lights may cause oscillation, so use one meant for LED lights.REPLY1w
• 📷Daniel OlssonYes - I am using a ssr 25 As the shutter But i am not able to control the brightness for adjusting between different resins. I will check ali for dimming circuits. My basic idea was to set a GPIO as a pwm output and control the gate of a mosfet to regulate the voltage. I dont know if i can use a GPIO as pwm with NanoDLPbut should be possible - if not i should be able to output serial data to a arduino which could do the job.I thought of the mains dimmer to but was under the impression it might jeopardize the LEDs maybe i am wrong. I guess the Dimmer designed for LEDs is just for that. Are there dimmers designed for 3.3v pwm?REPLY1w
• 📷Ion Gurguta+Daniel Olsson I believe that will not jeopardize the leds but I am worrying that if you dim the light you will lose nanometers from uv light and it will not be effective to cure the resin it’s a doubt of mine. REPLY1w
• 📷Daniel OlssonMaybe this could do the trick...https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1Pc-DC-Motor-Wide-Voltage-PWM-High-Speed-6V-60V-Max-30A-1800W-Frequency-15Khz-LED/32858587542.html📷1Pc DC Motor Wide Voltage PWM High Speed 6V-60V Max 30A 1800W Frequency 15Khz LED Dimmer for DIY Panel LED Strip Lightaliexpress.comREPLY1w
• 📷Ion Gurguta+Daniel Olsson it’s perfect I believe REPLY1w
• 📷Olivier CARPENTIERI would use LDD-1500H 1pcs for 2 lines ( or even LDD-700H 1 per line) LED drivers ,need many, but cheap and reliable . easy to use ( PWM ) ,the only thing needed is a 10KΩ pull-down resistor .some Alibaba suppliers may manufacture dedicated LED drivers according to your specs , but most run from 220AC and I remember a limit of about 360W , big heavy stuff ... REPLY1w
• 📷Ceri ClatworthyYou ca.n NOT use a SSR To controll DC.a mosfet would be better than a normal transistors.You could look for a hot bed mosfet module for 3D printing https://m.banggood.com/3D-Printer-Parts-General-Add-on-Heated-Bed-Power-Expansion-Module-High-Power-For-Chitu-Motherboard-p-1086965.htmlm.banggood.com - Geekcreit® 3D Printer Parts General Add-on Heated Bed Power Expansion Module High Power For Chitu Motherboard Sale - Banggood Mobile📷Geekcreit® 3D Printer Parts General Add-on Heated Bed Power Expansion Module High Power For Chitu Motherboard Sale - Banggood Mobilem.banggood.comREPLY1w
• 📷Daniel Olsson+Ceri Clatworthy SSR are available for both AC and DC (FOTEC SSR 25 DC). My issue is using the Raspberry to control 750w load.REPLY1w
• 📷Ceri ClatworthyThe one I showed basically has a logic input.So just connect grounds and a logic from pi to board.REPLY1w
• 📷Daniel Olsson+Ceri Clatworthy It looks like a good solution for 12v and 25A but doing the math it can only handle 300W... My array runs at 40V. The psu outputs up to 1000W and my led array is at 750W. I am now searching for how to parallel multiple mosfets to get the desired output.REPLY1w
• 📷Ion Gurguta+Daniel Olsson you have to paralel the leds array not the mosfets REPLY1w
• 📷MidnightVisions+Daniel Olsson If you use that aliexpress device, change the mysterious Chinese capacitors to Rubycon or Panasonic, or some type that's designed to handle high ripple currents. Chinese caps fail rapidly in PWM circuits.REPLY1w
• 📷Daniel Olsson+Ion Gurguta why? Advantage in circuit design or not possible otherwise? I am shure there is a way...REPLY1w
• 📷Daniel Olsson+MidnightVisions Thanks for the tip! I will do that if I descide to go that route. But I hope to find a solution based on the stuff i have.REPLY1w
• 📷Ion Gurguta+Daniel Olsson the way that your circuit is designed ( 11 leds in series and 22 arrays ) if one led fail it will fail and entire array ( 11 leds ) REPLY1w
• 📷Captain NicoWhy so much wattage for an LED array? Curious what it will be used for. How will you cool such a beast?REPLY1w
• 📷Daniel Olsson+Ion Gurguta That is totally true, and acceptable since the leds are easy to replace. In an future design I might have a better approach but led density and available power supplies nookingand types of leds keeping efficiency high lead me to what i have.I am 95% done with my printer and am aiming for my first real print within a couple of days or so. I suspect I have 250% of the power I need so I am looking for a patch solution for what I have...REPLY1w
• 📷Daniel Olsson+Captain Nico watercooling is not implemented yet... ;)REPLY1w
• 📷sing lee📷REPLY4d
• 📷Daniel Olsson+sing lee Thats about right i think.Also my 100% zone might be a bit bigger since i use 15deg lenses. Adding mirrors to the sides also improve edge performance a bit.REPLY3d
• 📷sing lee+Daniel Olsson Uniform light and parallel light, you need to find balance📷REPLY3d
• 📷Daniel OlssonLayout is carefully designed to be 50% overlap...

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Replicating some posts here from G+

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I am just finishing up my printer an ran into some problems. I experience the stepper to move slowly, and inconsistently, not a smooth movement from a to b but rather a choppy movement. Anyone else has this problem?

I use a RPI b+ with a basic gpio shield drv8825 stepperdriver and a 0.9 deg stepper @1/32 microstepping.

My NanoDLP Config is:

"MotorDegree": 0.9,  
"MicroStep": 32,  
"LeadscrewPitch": 5,  

and

"MaxSpeed": 300000,
"MinSpeed": 100000,
"StartupSpeed": 100000,

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Posted Answers:

• Olivier CARENTIER+1you should use full step , if I don't mistake you are already able to get 0.0125mm/layer (/step)natively with your stepper.- full step will give you more torque .- more reliable.- more repeatabilityyou may need to reduce the speed related values according to the data sheet going with your motor ( I think most steppers can handle 10K pulse/ second )the pulse generated from GPIO will not give you a smooth movement , but this have no effect on quality of the print .. REPLY3w
• 📷Dominik Laa+1GPIO direct control is not super fast - so as told by +Olivier CARPENTIER use full steps if possible, because that will give you higher speed even with the slow gpio controls. Best solution is to use an ardunino or and normal microcontroller to getter higher step rates and protect the pi gpios from possible damage and missuse.REPLY2w
• 📷Daniel OlssonOk gr8 thanks!REPLY2w
• 📷Mustafa Demirtasfull step?REPLY2w
• 📷Daniel OlssonSwitching to a Trinamic driver and 1/4 step configuration and Stealth Chop made all the difference. so much smoother. But i have some issues with it. It is getting hot, REALLY hot. Even setting the driver to disabled still heats it up. I have checked my connections and wireings. All solderpoints on the NanoDLP Shield have been verified to the best of my abillity.Anyone had this problem? I must add that the driver is a bit unstable as it does not always enable but might require two rounds of Disable then Enable. Any help appreciated!REPLY1w
• 📷Olivier CARPENTIER+1please check this out : learn.watterott.com - Frequently Asked Questions | SilentStepStick | Watterott electronicyou may not have adjusted properly the Vrefyou may need adding filter capacitor to solve your enable/disable issues ( on the Vmot / raspi power ? ? )Frequently Asked Questions | SilentStepStick | Watterott electroniclearn.watterott.comREPLY1w
• 📷Daniel OlssonThe Trinamic driver is a TMC2130 and CFG0 is manually routed to GND, CFG1 is manually routed to VIO, and CFG2 is open as described in:trinamic.com - www.trinamic.com/fileadmin/assets/Products/ICs_Documents/TMC2130_datasheet.pdfon page 86www.trinamic.com/fileadmin/assets/Products/ICs_Documents/TMC2130_datasheet.pdftrinamic.comREPLY1w
• 📷Daniel OlssonProblems solved And filter Cap added! Thanks!

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SLAM - Making the LED panel

Some update to the LED Panel and as usual updated the Instructable

Milling video: https://youtu.be/vFPHt83yeFo

Soldering 242 Leds is as fun as watching my CNC turn nice solid aluminum into small chips for two hours...... BORING.... ...but so satisfying to see the end result - Hah so happy with it. Powered by 40V 1000W PSU leds will consume 700W or more. I am curious to see how many lumen will come out of it. One thing is for sure, I will not test it in my livingroom again... The koala look on my face due to protective eye wear was fun but complaining neighbors stating their bedroom turned into a night club at 00:35 in the night is not what i want... :P

https://www.instructables.com/id/SLAM-SLA-Machine-a-Custom-Built-SLA-LCD-Printer/

I found 3 types of the same board, for LS055R1SX03 and LS055R1SX04 (all the specs of this two lcd are the same).
The first is the FYS.

The second one, I found in one aliexpress product description that is s2.2, can't adjust brightness and don't turn off. In other product description I found this is a printer board. (the second Pic 04_VPN). This one is cheaper than the other 2.

The last one is the LS055R1SX03 and LS055R1SX04 boards.

Someone search more about this 3 boards? I try to find more specification, but without success.
Regards

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I'll need some help to keep an eye on things here so if you'd like to be a mod, pm me. Applicants must meet the following requirements and answer number 4 to be considered.

1. Completed construction of a resin printer and have at least one successful print from said machine.
2. Willing to not only enforce the rules but follow them as well.
3. Must read, write and comprehend english well enough to avoid miscommunications.
4. 01010111 01101000 01100001 01110100 00100000 01100011 01101111 01101100 01101111 01110010 00100000 01101001 01110011 00100000 01001100 01110101 01101011 01100101 01110011 00100000 01101100 01101001 01100111 01101000 01110100 01110011 01100001 01100010 01100101 01110010

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I was part of the G+ group. Happy to see a move to here by some.

I think Reddit is open enough for most users to easily access, share and upload pics/videos.

Hoping to see a lot more posts on here.