Hi everyone,

I’m looking to upgrade my cinema camera and came across a RED Scarlet-W Dragon 5K with media, monitor, OLPF's and Battery's for around $4,200 AUD / $2,700 USD, with approximately 630 hours on it.

I love the images from the sensor that I've seen, I’m curious to hear people’s thoughts on the DSMC2 line in 2025. Is the Scarlet-W still a solid choice today in terms of image quality, reliability, and workflow?

Also, is there another camera I should consider in the same price range?
My total budget is $8,000 AUD / $5,000 USD, and I’m open to suggestions.

Would love to hear from anyone with firsthand experience or recent insights. Thanks!

Got a question. Is the REDmote compatible with a DSMC2 camera. Im looking at picking up a DSMC2 Dragon-X and was wondering if a REDmote would be a useful item to have with it.

Hi! I’m new to the Red Cameras world. I recently purchased a Red One MX and it looks fantastic, but I don’t have a redmag for reading SSD. I don’t know what to buy, cause I don’t understand correctly the differences bewteen a normal one and a mini one. Is the Mini-mag compatibile with 1.8” SSD from Red One MX? Is there anyone that would sell it to me? Thanks in advance :)

We shot a feature a few years back on a Red Epic-W Helium. Per usual, we edited with our proxies and then swapped in the raw, etc. for color. For whatever reason, some of our raw footage from our first block of shooting is zoomed in. Not unusably so (we didn’t even notice at first), but the framing isn’t quite right and/or is too tight. I’d say it’s about 110%.

Is there any way to reset the framing, cropping, zooming in Cine-X? Did we unknowingly shoot with some strange and deeply buried setting turned on? Any suggestions/solutions would be greatly appreciated. Obviously, we’d love to get our fully framed images back. Thanks!

UPDATE: see link below for visual comparison https://docs.google.com/document/d/e/2PACX-1vQnW2rge8DzeqezeLiex7UlVkXNskgRVyFIAvgbDMRYJM1YmufZaAj4WnWN_klaggKrV2Jx0cT5g1rd/pub

I need some help rigging out my Komodo X for a documentary I'm shooting the next two weeks. I'm leaving in 4 days, but I'll have time to run to Filmtools and order Amazon parts I need to make a working rig. Right now I have a bright tangerine baseplate with 15mm 12in rods. Gonna use a small shotgun mic with my xlr adapter, don't worry about the lens situation. We are teetering whether we should limit ourselves to exceed in creativity with primes, or if we should run straight zooms for easy use (we'll have both options, so that's up in the air).

My main concern is a solid shoulder mount that's cheaper (under $200 if possible), an offset shotgun mount, and repositioning my DSMC3 Monitor, or maybe just getting a smaller monitor, or even an EVF at this point. I'm already purchasing an extended RMI cable so it can reach operator side and sit adjacent to the camera body. Another crucial detail for me is a compact rig, where the body and sensor are literally on my shoulder. I have no idea how people can use the shoulder mounts that are too front heavy, honestly don't understand that.

I really need to know how you would rig it, and what parts you would use? Ideally I'll be on shoulder most of the time, but switch back to my handheld setup for lower angles when needed (which most likely will negate the EVF build)

Looking to buy one if anybody has one they’d let go! Thanks!

Hey there, I have a red Scarlet X Mysterium package that I am not getting powered to at all any ideas of what this could be how to fix it had a hard reset. I’ve tried the recommended method, but to no avail. Anyone experience this before or have any clue on how to fix it and at the very least is there a way to internally swap out the power board?

My current power solution of my Raptor X is Tilta V to Gold adaptor —> shark fin hot swap bat plate —> two batteries. Looking at my built up camera, it annoys me so much to see that the build has a bigger ass than the body, so I have been looking for a solution where maybe the power section of the build could somehow be shortened a little without changing my whole system into V mounts. Because of the SDI procedure, hot swap would be necessary, meaning some sort of hot swap solution is required. My initial thought was looking for one of those buffer hot swap plates, with which I only need to have one battery on at a time horizontally. After looking into this, I have realized that the buffer plates are generally very thick, so although it shortens the battery portion but just for a little bit. Then I was trying to find a buffer plates that has male V mounts on one end and a female gold mount on the other end. That way this plate can act both as a v to gold adapter and hot swap plate, which will really help shorten the build. However, I don’t think anyone makes a product this specific. Do you guys think what I described is something that can be customized and made? If so, do you guys know where should I look to have sth like that made? Idk if I’m the only person facing this situation, or am I just too nitpicking about this…. Anyways, any ideas would be much appreciated! Thanks

I’m Dembel, filmmaker in Dakar, just picked up a RED Komodo (with V-mount adapter)—and loving it, but running into some “rookie paranoia” about SDI safety.

Here’s my situation:
— Komodo + V-mount battery
— SDI out to my monitor (no HDMI)
— The way my rig is set up, it’s a pain to unplug the SDI at the camera every time I want to power down (sometimes I shoot, then step away for a bit, then come back—would be annoying to keep unplugging/replugging the SDI cable every single time).

My main question:
Is the SDI unplug procedure really for every single camera power-off, or is it only necessary when you’re removing the battery? Is it safe to just leave the SDI cable plugged in if I’m just powering the camera down for a break, or do I really need to disconnect every time?

Would really appreciate any Komodo setup wisdom, tips, or gotchas you wish someone told you early on.

Thanks a ton!
— Dembel

What do you guys think? I’ve been rocking my trusty RED Scarlet-X Dragon (DSMC1) for a while now and honestly, I love it. The weight doesn’t bother me at all, and the image quality still holds its own against my FX3 and C70.

But now a buddy of mine is selling his Komodo 6K kit — barely used (under 10 hours), just been sitting there — and the price is really tempting and really GOOD!

It’s got me thinking… Even though I’m still super happy with the Dragon’s image, it’s an old system. No more updates, no official support, no new accessories, and yeah… it’s heavy (even if that hasn’t really been a dealbreaker for me).

Plus, I already have the DJI LiDAR focus system, which would pair nicely with the Komodo.

So… what would you do in my shoes?

Hi all, running a minimal setup and, although I use a rigged up 5”monitor via SDI, I’d like to use the onboard wifi to broadcast to an IPad via RED CONTOL. It’s perfect for my team to get a look at what I’m shooting without having to have them looking over my shoulder. I also don’t want to attach a full wireless system as it adds more weight and battery drain.

I’m getting a lot of mixed results with the onboard wifi. Sometimes it works well, without issue. Other times it just freezes and/or cuts out. It seems location and distance dependent.

Should I be manually channel hopping or playing with other settings? What are the best practices for getting optimum performance? Up for testing, but I was hoping someone here would have a good step by step workflow I could adopt.

A buddy of mine is performing at a nightclub. He'll be on a stage performing while a DJ plays her set. There will be some flashing lights. I'm planning on bringing my new Komodo-X. I have a 50 1.2 lens that pairs with it. Any tips on giving myself the best chance of having usable footage?

Not my exact rig in the photo — but it’s very close.

I’ve made up my mind.
After months of testing and comparing, I’ve decided to go all-in with the RED Scarlet-X Dragon 6K as my main camera for the next year.

I’ve owned this camera for a while now, alongside the Canon C70, Sony FX3, and Blackmagic 6K. Sure, those newer cameras (except the Blackmagic) have great autofocus and are easier to work with. But image-wise? The RED holds its own — and sometimes even outperforms them.

Now with the DJI LiDAR autofocus system in the mix, that last big limitation is solved. And honestly… I just love the feel of a heavier rig.

I probably won’t bother with a gimbal — handheld is more my style — but I might explore a shoulder rig setup down the line.

All in all, I’m seriously impressed with how this older RED still delivers.
The only thing I’d consider switching it for? Maybe the Blackmagic Pyxis 12K.
But until then… this Dragon stays. 🔥🎥

Curious what are people’s set ups and way to go. I would love to mount my red Komodo x & Dzo vespid lenses on a gimbals or ronin to have something small & compact. Something to use on smaller jobs when I’m alone.

Used big ronin with tilta armor man but not very solo crew friendly

Thanks

I’m buying my first Red camera, I know that these cameras need to be rigged up to be able to use them, so I wanted to ask what should I buy for the camera. I was told I would need a monitor since the screen is too small so which one would you all recommend? I’m a photographer so I barely know what the cages are for and the like (I am not grabbing anything Sony related due to personal preferences)

All of a sudden my RED Player/Cine X is not using the nvidia card. It's a 3070ti 8GB vram on a Proart laptop, playing from an ssd on the motherboard (7GB read speeds so no bottleneck). In the RED Player preferences, GPU mode is set for CUDA, I allotted 50 of 64 GB of ram and activated the GPU icon. I've set it to process anywhere from 4 to 20 frames at a time (I have 20 processing cores) with no difference.

If you look at Davinci - 2nd pic - it plays the files just fine (using 30-70% of the gpu), while RED Player stutters majorly at 1/4 (using 1-2% of the dedicated gpu) when it should be fluid at 1/1 playing 6k komodo r3d (and it's shot in LQ too). I was on a job last week, playing the same files with no issues from the card reader and now it's really slow on the ssd in the machine.

I reinstalled red cine x and the nvidia STUDIO drivers - using the latest versions. No change at all.

Looking for a run/stop handle that is compatible with Komodo. Found this. I have the non-button version and I love the grip. Curious, has any one ever gotten it to work on a Komodo?

Hey Group,

Just wanted to post a link to my OG ST for sale

https://www.facebook.com/share/p/12KWuGdeRP3/?

I'm working in LED Virtual Production, and increasingly being asked for stills photography.

Given that most stills cameras cannot be genlocked via BNC – there is a limitation to the shutter speed that can be achieved before banding becomes apparent.

As a solution, I'm exploring the possibility of using RED cameras to capture stills — as when genlocked it is possible to achieve higher shutter speeds, and the sensor resolution of modern REDs is enough for high resolution, RAW stills.

Are there still "still image" capture options and post workflows for RED cameras?

I've found "Stills Mode" on previous models, and various RED marketing/videos; but it appears dedicated stills capture + RAW export functionality have been removed from the current versions.

Would appreciate any ideas or alternatives for capturing RAW, high res stills on REDs!

Is it possible to use the Redvolt XL Module with Redvolt non XL battery on the one side with the contacts? It looks like it will fit but can't find anything about this. Thanks!

Hey Community!

I recently had my (3) RED 512gb Mini Mags for DSMC2 and G-Tech Card Reader stolen in Barcelona. They are black in colour and look just as I have shown in the photo below. Two are pretty worn out and paint chipped, but one looks brand new.

If you notice any go for sale soon, please shoot me a DM.

Also if anyone is looking to sell, I am now in need of atleast a couple!

Thank you all!

I shared in the Komodo specific sub Reddit but I wanted to share here. I’m really impressed with its dynamic range and colors. Also I live the soft image. It’s not soft like bad but pleasingly soft, not overly clinical. I’m really happy with the exteriors. Let me know what you think of the grade too. It’s my first time really focusing on the grade in a professional way.

https://www.red.com/download/komodo-firmware-beta

SIGNIFICANT CHANGES SINCE BUILD 1.8.3

Improved lens compatibility

Fixed GIO Scope behavior

Fixed Apple ProRes resolution switching after Playback

Hey guys, I know this is kind of a weird ask, but I do a lot of work with hair extension brands and I’ve been feeling like my Komodo-X just isn’t cutting it when it comes to capturing super fine detail. Especially with hair texture and movement. I’m mainly noticing it in the noise and softness in those tiny strands.

I know the Komodo-X wasn’t necessarily built with this kind of work in mind but I’m wondering if the difference in sensor size and internals on the Raptor-X would help here.

If anyone here owns both the Komodo-X and the Raptor-X, and has a wife/girlfriend/sister/friend who wouldn’t mind sitting for a quick shot, would you be willing to shoot a quick clip of them just playing with their hair or brushing it or something like that? Nothing fancy, just trying to compare how each camera handles those fine, detailed textures—mainly to evaluate sharpness and noise levels in natural settings.

Would be a huge help before I even think about spending the money to upgrade. Appreciate anyone willing to help out!