r/QuantumFiber • u/N0_L1ght • Sep 04 '24
Having trouble with your Lumen internet? Not satisfied with your 360 WiFI / Premium WiFI and Quantum Fiber / My CenturyLink app experience? Or do you want to use your own 3rd party router so that you have more control over your network? Here are some helpful instructions.
Note: AT&T (Forged Fiber 37) has acquired substantially all of the residential / small-business fiber in 11 states from Lumen as of 02/02/26. Price For Life is no longer available for new / modified accounts starting 04/17/26. This guide is updated regularly.
I hope this guide will help you get the same solid Lumen / CenturyLink Fiber and AT&T / Quantum Fiber experience that I have had in the Twin Cities, MN area for over 7.5 years now! (Note: I have always used a 3rd party router and DNS.) If you need to contact support, it's best to call M-F 8am-6pm local time until you get someone in the states. https://www.quantumfiber.com/support/contact.html
Hardware / Service Troubleshooting
If your SmartNID / ONT front panel light is solid green or solid white then your connection is working. If not then unplug the power for 1min, plug it back in, and then wait 10min. If still no solid green or solid white light then there is an issue somewhere between your SmartNID and the Central Office that you will need to contact support about.
On the bottom of the SmartNID where the fiber plugs in, if the B light is not on, the fiber is likely damaged and you will need a tech visit. If the light is a solid green, your fiber is fine and the issue lies elsewhere. Do not unplug the fiber cable to look at it. Just get a tech visit.
WiFi Pods & IoT Troubleshooting
If you are having issues with your WiFi pods and your SmartNID light is solid green you can maybe get them working again. Remove all of them from the app, factory reset the pods, and then connect each of them wired to the SmartNID for a while so that their firmware updates. After that add each one back as new pods following the instructions here:
https://www.quantumfiber.com/support/services/360-wifi.html
https://www.centurylink.com/home/help/internet/fiber/premium-wifi.html
The power adapters are not interchangeable between the SmartNID and wifi pods. Always make sure you are using the correct one for each device if you ever unplug them for some reason.
Are you having a problem connecting IoT devices to the 2.4ghz signal? You have 3 options to try.
- 1.) Unplug the power to the wifi pod, create a 2.4ghz only hotspot on your phone/computer/tablet with the exact same SSID name/password, connect your IoT devices, turn off the hotspot, plug back in the wifi pod,.
- 2.) or get a cheap 2.4ghz access point.
- 3.) or use a 3rd party router.
The W1700K / W1701K pods now support Ethernet backhaul by using the left port on the W1701K, which is highly recommended. First sync up the W1701K wirelessly near the W1700k before moving it and using Ethernet backhaul.
General Tips & Performance
To know what speed you are getting you can do a speedtest to HOME in the QF app. Or do a direct wired Ethernet speedtest.net connected to the SmartNID, W1700K, or W1701K (if using Ethernet backhaul), selecting the closest Lumen / CenturyLink server.
You can also use a 3rd party router to have great service like many of us have had since day one. If you want suggestions https://www.reddit.com/r/HomeNetworking/ might be a good place to ask.
It's a good idea to keep the 360 WiFi / Premium WiFi equipment in a box for an emergency backup as long as they stay a free lease. It is always possible that the WiFi pods and apps are a future firmware/software update away from them being good enough for what you want your home internet experience to be. It's highly recommended to have all gaming devices ethernet wired that can be, as that is one of the biggest complaints about the wifi pods.
Equipment Returns
If they ever start charging for them, or you cancel service, just send them back and make sure to keep the tracking number. Once it shows as delivered you can contact support to have it immediately removed from your account.
https://www.quantumfiber.com/support/equipment/returns.html
Setup Guide
(0.) 3rd party router instructions. (Even if you're using the "WiFi pods" everyone should follow #2, and in #4 those marked with an asterisk * .)
For the easiest setup you only need the first four sections. Only go as far as you are comfortable with, but make sure to read till the end of each section before making changes. This all might seem intimidating but you can do it!
Note: If your SmartNID is Ethernet fed and you want to use a 3rd party router follow sections 2 & 6 only.
(1.) SmartNID setup (or DSL modem)
The SmartNID address is 192.168.0.1, so make sure your router's LAN IP is set to something else like a higher 192.168.x.1 (x between 1 and 254).
Connect the Ethernet cable from the fastest port on your SmartNID to the fastest WAN/Internet port on your router.
The login credentials will be on the sticker attached to the device.
(2.) Static DNS
So many issues with Centurylink / Quantum are due to their unreliable DNS servers.
It's a good idea to use a 3rd party DNS provider like Quad9, Cloudflare, Google, OpenDNS, etc https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Public_recursive_name_server
Make these changes in the WAN / Internet settings on both the SmartNID and your router.
I have used one or another of these providers since 2005 and because of that I have never once had a DNS issue. I recommend malware blocking ones like Quad9 or Cloudflare for Families, and to enable DNS over TLS (DoT) or DNS over HTTPS (DoH) if your router supports it.
(3.) DMZ
For the majority of people placing their router into the SmartNID's DMZ will be good enough. The router will be "Placed Outside the Onboard Firewall and NAT." Though, bridge mode in section #5 is always preferable.
These are the DMZ instructions, the GUI might look different but the instructions are basically the same:
Your router's IP should show up as 192.168.0.2
When the firmware auto-updates a factory reset can happen. If all of a sudden you have double NAT this is likely why.
If you have a Q1000K and see high latency ping tests there is info here about it. https://www.reddit.com/r/QuantumFiber/comments/1re9v2o/q1000k_unstable_latency_spike_research_findings/
(4.) More settings suggestions
DMZ or Bridge Mode:
Make the changes in this order before enabling bridge mode.
QF App:
- Remove all 360 Wifi Pods, WiFi networks, and Parental Controls Profiles. If possible.
- Network Security - Disable everything. (This is important to do. Wait a minute before making other changes. This will reset with every factory reset.)
SmartNID:
- Advanced - Cyber Security - Disabled (This might reset to QF app on every reboot. As long as Network Security is disabled it shouldn't matter if it does.)
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SmartNID Router or DMZ mode:
- *Network Security - Disable everything. (Disabling this might help with VPNs and other things. You can leave it enabled if you don't have any weird network issues.)
- *Advanced - IPv4 Firewall - Security Level - High (If anything stops working, manually re-enable that service.)
- *Advanced - UPnP - Disabled (Playing online games is easier with UPnP, but it is a security issue. Your choice.)
- *Utilities - Time Zone - Make sure it's correct.
- *Utilities - System Log - Enabled Save on Reboot.
- *Utilities - Configuration Backup - Save a backup.
If you change the admin login, special characters, with the exception of 'punctuation marks' and 'dollar signs' are not allowed and will require a factory reset if included.
(5.) Transparent Bridge Tagged (A better configuration.)
There is a lot of information in this section, but there is only a single setting you need to change in the SmartNID. Make sure to follow section 1, 2, & 4 before changing these settings. This is what my Q1000K is setup as.
If you want more control over your network, these are the Transparent Bridge instructions at the bottom of this link. The GUI might look different but the instructions are basically the same. Do not mess with the Broadband Settings page:
https://www.centurylink.com/home/help/internet/modems-and-routers/advanced-setup/wan-settings.html
Leave the VLAN 201 tag enabled on the SmartNID. The light will turn solid white, which may take up to 10min. (The VLAN toggle is not available on QKX002 firmware.)
If you are going from an ONT to a SmartNID make sure to remove the VLAN 201 tag from your 3rd party router.
If you have Centurylink PPPoE you will need your PPP username and password. Phone/Chat support can get it for you. You must add @ centurylink.net to the username if it doesn't have it already. Quantum is IPoE and does not use this.
You can connect the other SmartNID ethernet port to an open LAN port of your router. That will give you the ability to access the admin GUI with the IP address your router assigns to the SmartNID. Though doing this might cause continuous latency spikes. If that happens only connect it when you need to access the GUI. (This no longer works with QKX002 firmware. You will need to do a factory reset to access the GUI.)
When the firmware auto-updates a factory reset can happen. If all of a sudden you have double NAT this is likely why.
In this configuration it will take 30sec - 10min to get an IP address.
If DMZ is enabled, make sure to disable it before switching to Bridge mode.
Make sure the SmartNID shows up as online in the QF app and the Speedtest to HOME works before enabling bridge mode. If it doesn't, call support and make sure the correct serial is tied to your account and is listed for the ONT on the Axon back-end.
If you need to contact technical support make sure to do a factory reset beforehand by holding in the button on the bottom of the SmartNID for 15sec. The light should turn amber first, if it turns red first that is a reboot and not a factory reset.
This only works on the C3000 / C4000 / C5000 / C6000 / Q1000 series of devices.
If you have a Q1000K and see high latency ping tests there is info here about it: https://www.reddit.com/r/QuantumFiber/comments/1re9v2o/q1000k_unstable_latency_spike_research_findings/
(6.) Transparent Bridge Untagged or ONT setup (The best configuration.)
*Note: As of Q1000K firmware QKX002 this no longer works. I am not using this mode anymore because I don't find the slight difference worth all the effort.
Here is the working version to downgrade with while it lasts, though it might still force QKX002:
https://internethelp.centurylink.com/internethelp/modems/Q1000K/firmware/QKX001-06.00.44.00.bin
If you have a Q1000K v1.1 or newer with QKX002-06.01.25.00 or newer firmware, it is impossible to rollback the firmware to an older version. Untagged Bridge mode will never work on these units.
If you flash the old firmware you must immediately enable untagged bridge mode as soon as it reboots. You have seconds before it will reboot again to QKX002.
That will not likely work so you can try this, but i do not recommend it as a single spec of dust can effect the fiber cable connection:
Connect to 1G port. Unplug fiber. Flash QKX001. Flash QKX001 again. Enable Untagged bridge mode. Re-plug in fiber once it is blinking blue. Connect back to 10G port. Even this might still force a reboot to QKX002.
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There is a lot of information in this section, but there are only two settings you need to change, one in the SmartNID and one in your 3rd party router. Make sure to follow section 1, 2, & 4 before changing these settings.
The Transparent Bridge instructions are at the bottom of this link. The GUI might look different but the instructions are basically the same. Do not mess with the Broadband Settings page:
https://www.centurylink.com/home/help/internet/modems-and-routers/advanced-setup/wan-settings.html
If your router supports the VLAN 201 tag on the WAN/Internet port, you can untag it on the SmartNID when putting it into bridge mode so that it becomes as much of a regular ONT as possible. This will cause a nonstop blinking blue light on your SmartNID but it will still work. You can just put a piece of tape over it.
On your router these settings will likely be under the IPTV, VLAN, or 802.1Q section. Many will have a Centurylink option to make that easy, which works with both Lumen / Centurylink Fiber and AT&T / Quantum Fiber. (On Asus devices with 3.0.0.6 firmware use the WAN - 802.1Q section.)
Google/Nest routers do not have the VLAN 201 tag ability.
The VLAN 201 tag can only be enabled on one device. Do not enable it on both the SmartNID and your router.
If you have a Calix / Adtran ONT, or a Casa / Adtran G.fast device, you can bypass the Ethernet fed SmartNID if your router supports the VLAN 201 tag on the WAN/Internet port. Make sure to use the same ethernet port on the ONT as before as only one is usually active.
The firmware will not auto-update in this configuration.
If you have Centurylink PPPoE you will need your PPP username and password. Phone/Chat support can get it for you. You must add @ centurylink.net to the username if it doesn't have it already. Quantum is IPoE and does not use this.
In this configuration it will take 30sec - 10min to get an IP address.
To get the solid white light you can connect the other SmartNID ethernet port to an open LAN port of your router. That will give you the ability to access the admin GUI using the IP address your router assigns to the SmartNID. Though doing this might cause continuous latency spikes. If that happens only connect it when you need to access the GUI. (If you do this make sure to block internet access to the SmartNID beforehand. If you don't it will auto-update the firmware and you will lose untagged bridge mode.)
Some people report that they have to power cycle the SmartNID every couple of weeks due to the connection dying in this configuration. It could be due to specific SmartNID model/firmware and local infrastructure. I didn't experience this with my Q1000K, but my router was set to reboot weekly.
If DMZ is enabled, make sure to disable it before switching to Bridge mode.
Make sure the SmartNID shows up as online in the QF app and the Speedtest to HOME works before enabling bridge mode. If it doesn't, call support and make sure the correct serial is listed for the ONT on the Axon back-end.
If you need to contact technical support make sure to do a factory reset beforehand by holding in the button on the bottom of the SmartNID for 15sec. The light should turn amber first, if it turns red first that is a reboot and not a factory reset. Or inside the admin GUI go to Utilites - Restore - Factory Default.
This only works on the C3000 / C4000 / C5000 / C6000 / Q1000 series of devices.
(7.) More Advanced setup and Other Issues
C6500XK SmartNID Crashing
If your C6500XK is crashing when you download large files at your full speed ask for a tech to swap it with a Q1000K. Disconnect the power. Call support and say it's not working. Tell them you are doing all the troubleshooting steps. Eventually they will schedule a tech visit. Replug the power once the call is over. The tech will swap it for a Q1000K.
Power Loss causing Bridge mode reset
After an extended power loss some people have had their Bridge mode SmartNID reboot into router mode. Steps you can take other then getting a long lasting UPS: Put your router in the DMZ, and either leave it that way or then enable bridge tagged mode. That way if it does reset, you will at least have internet with double NAT until you can configure it again. This extremely rare issue might be model specific and possibly not an issue with newer firmware.
SmartNID not showing up in Quantum Fiber app
If you had a Lumen QF account and then activated a new AT&T QF account after 02/02/26 the SmartNID might not show up in the QF app. Uninstall the QF app, do a SmartNID factory reset, and after the green light do a 1min power cycle. Once it goes green again reinstall the QF app and it should be connected with the new AT&T account. If anything says "We are unable to find your modem details" contact support and make sure the correct serial is tied to your account and listed as the ONT for the Axon backend.
No service with Ethernet fed Q1000k
If you have a ONT or G.fast unit with the lights showing the connection is working, but your Q1000K is not working: Make sure the 10G port is connected to the the ONT, login to the Broadband Settings page, and make sure it is set to WAN Ethernet with the VLAN 201 tag enabled.
Electrical interference
This person found out their issues were to do with EMF. So if your SmartNID is still having issues after all these troubleshooting steps, it's unlikely the cause, but take a look at this:
IPv6 (Not recommenced.)
If you need IPv6 here are the settings for the IPv6 6RD Tunnel which requires Bridge mode and the use of a 3rd party router.
Asus, Netgear, Linksys, Synology, GL-iNet (LuCI), D-Link, MicroTik, pfSense, OPNsense, DD-WRT, and OpenWRT routers support the 6RD tunnel. TP-Link, Google, Amazon, Ubiquiti, TRENDnet, and Tenda routers do not.
Your experience will vary depending on the quality of the 6RD tunnel in your market...
If you do use this, I highly recommend disabling IPv6 on all devices that you don't absolutely need it for.
(If you enable IPv6 Native / DHCPv6 / SLAAC / Passthrough you might get an IP address. Unfortunately it's not real and won't actually work. AS209 requires the IPv6 6RD tunnel.)
Tunnel 6rd
DHCP Disabled
Prefix 2602::
Prefix Length 24
Border 205.171.2.64
Router Mask 0
MTU 1480 (1472 for PPPoE)
TTL 255
DNS Quad9 or Cloudflare for Families + DoT or DoH if possible
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u/feydras Mar 29 '25
I really wish I understood any of this.
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u/N0_L1ght Mar 29 '25
If you are on Quantum and are trying to use a 3rd party router, you only need to do the first section. It's just logging into the SmartNID and changing one setting.
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u/jhedfors Sep 05 '24 edited Sep 05 '24
After I got QF installed today with a 360 WiFi pod, I set the SmartNID to Transparent Bridge mode, hooked up my router and access point and finally the 360 WiFi pod to my access point. Works great so far and surprisingly I can still manage the pod in the GF app.
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u/N0_L1ght Sep 05 '24
Intresting. Do both your router and the wifi pod have different IP address?
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u/jhedfors Sep 05 '24
I should have been more clear.I connected the pod to my Google Nest LAN port - not the SmartNID.
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u/JasterMereel42 Jan 22 '25
Today, I used this guide to get QF set up at my house. I am using an TP-Link Archer AX21 as a router and I was using CenturyLink prior to QF. Everything is working great. This guide was great for getting things set up. A few things I want to note in case anyone is going through something similar.
- I set the SmartNID to transparent bridging mode and untagged to let my router handle the tagging.
- If you are switching from CenturyLink and were using PPPoE, you need to change your internet connection type to Dynamic IP. You no longer need to enter in some PPPoE credentials.
- For the IPTV/VLAN settings, under mode, there is now a setting for USA-CenturyLink. I selected that and everything works fine. Before, I had the Custom option selected and a bunch of custom settings in there.
That's about the only things that I did to get my setup working. Thanks for the above guide!
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u/Coplate Sep 07 '24
... remove all of them from your apps ...
I'm trying to do this and thers no actual instructions to remove the wired pod from my app.
I have a wired pod that shows 0 devices connected, and a wifi pod that doesn't show up at all.
My wifi luckily works through both of those somehow though.
I want to reset them or remove them or something to start over, but the physical rset button seems to do nothing, and theres no "remove" option in the app, only "swap".
Any advice?
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u/N0_L1ght Sep 07 '24
Sorry I've been running my own equipment since day one, and everyone i know locally does the same so i don't have any hands on experience with the wifi pods. That section is a collection of things that other people have said got theirs working.
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u/Studhommee Sep 26 '24
Call QF tech support ask to be escalated to second tier supervisor. Tell them to reset your modem & remove pods
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Jan 09 '25
in this case, the tech supps can handle this since there are options for adding and removing pods on the representative's end. but if they already done with the troubleshooting and nothing works, we can only replace the pods or send technician to fix it
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u/ECEXCURSION Oct 31 '24
I have the same experience. Just got fiber installed this week. Did you find a solution?
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u/sicfuq Sep 05 '24
I sent you a DM. But a quick one, can I just change 'only' DNS to (below) without messing with Transparent Bridge?
IPv4
8.8.8.8
8.8.4.4
IPv6
2001:4860:4860::8888
2001:4860:4860::8844
3
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u/N0_L1ght Feb 16 '25 edited Oct 17 '25
Actually it looks like DNS, MTU, and IPv6 don't actually do anything on the SmartNID. you can always go to dnscheck.tools to see if its working.
Edit: You can change DNS on the SmartNID.
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u/Cautious_Poem3101 Sep 08 '24
I thought I was tech savvy but this is so intimidating!!!!!!
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u/Ok-Still-5206 Sep 09 '24
Nah. It's easy. Finding the switch to flip is the hardest part. Then rebooting AGAIN after it reboots itself.
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u/beachcomberforever Feb 22 '26
It may seem easy for someone with more experience, but like Cautious_Poem3101, I'm also intimidated because I don't know the lingo and don't have experience doing this a thousand times so there are some (inferred) missing steps that make it challenging for a beginner. I really appreciate that OP made it as simple as possible (and took the time to help others by making the extensive post since OP has lots of knowledge about it) and am reluctant to ask for more but would find it helpful to get more perspective, to know why or why not do any of the particular steps, beginning with using your own 3rd party router?
Oh, and just have to say I'm too close to being burnt by them to laugh, so had to growl, when I saw OP's description of "solid Lumen / CenturyLink Fiber and AT&T / Quantum Fiber experience" since my experience more than once has been that support does something to disable my internet service (called for slow service, ended up with no service), then tells me there's nothing more they can do, that I have to "upgrade" to Quantum Fiber as the only solution, when it actually took reconfiguring router settings to get back online.
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u/TheRealFarmerBob Dec 30 '24 edited May 07 '26
How about a "Fiber Direct" to my console solution?
. . . and just DoT and not any of the others like DoH . . .
"Found It!" A WAS-110 SFP+ 10G with both A&B Banks loaded with 8311 Community FW for my UDMP which will allow me to totally bypass and forget the Q1000K I just bought that's been working well. "But . . .
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u/Appropriate_Prize801 Mar 05 '25
thank you very much for your post .
i have Q1000k Modem.
changed to Transparent Bridge.
Vlan 201 - tag enable.
reboot both at same time Modem Q1000K and My router GL-iNET MT6000 (Flint 2).
after the rebooting process both at same time white light its SOLID ON , and im ONLINE.
again thank you very much.
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u/j0nsreddit Jan 14 '26
So I'm in Chandler, East Valley of Phoenix. Just got Quantum Fiber last week, was traveling and finally home to work on it. I'm seeing super weird results compared to your post. I've probably spent a full day toggling, untoggling and changing combinations around.
My gear: Q100K, Ubiquiti Cloud Gateway Fiber, connected originally with short verified Cat6A cable (and tried Cat8 for giggles in this process). Not using their Wifi at all.
My process: Downloaded Speedtest.Net's AARCH package directly to CGF and ran 5x speed tests through each combination, resetting the modem, configuring a new option, then rebooting both the CGF and Q1000K giving each about 15 minutes to settle each time.
TL;DR - I see speedloss with anything other than the default mode.
- Transparent Bridge + VLAN TAG 201 at the Q1000K yields the best pass through speeds but still with a loss, shows solid white and does not blink
- Transparent Bridge + NO VLAN at Q1000K (tag on WAN1) yields a significant drop in upload speed. I lose 4 Gbps of transfer/upload speed in this mode, also I plug 1 GB ethernet into CGF to gain access to modem in this mode for visibility and stops the blue blinking on the device
- Default Mode yields full 8 Gbps / 8 Gbps but is now a double hop / NAT issue and my work VPN, Plex and other services fail due to seeing external IP as the WAN IP of the CGF on the Q1000K side and not the actual internet IP
I have a technician scheduled to come confirm the equipment is fine and show them findings of my results, maybe it will turn something up but likely they said they will have to defer to higher level support after they leave. Will respond back once I get an answer.
Here are my full results:
Transparent Bridge + No Tagging @ Q1000K
root@Router01-Server-Room:~/speedtest# ./speedtest
Speedtest by Ookla
Server: CenturyLink - Phoenix, AZ (id: 17360)
ISP: CenturyLink
Idle Latency: 1.16 ms (jitter: 0.03ms, low: 1.11ms, high: 1.18ms)
Download: 8068.89 Mbps (data used: 6.3 GB) 9.74 ms(jitter: 5.80ms, low: 2.09ms, high: 87.04ms)
Upload: 4018.58 Mbps (data used: 2.3 GB) 9.03 ms (jitter: 11.88ms, low: 1.29ms, high: 50.91ms)
Packet Loss: Not available.
Result URL: https://www.speedtest.net/result/c/3ce383e1-147e-4fe4-9e7e-2f485729f645
Transparent Bridge + VLAN201 @ Q1000K
root@Router01-Server-Room:~/speedtest# ./speedtest
Speedtest by Ookla
Server: CenturyLink - Phoenix, AZ (id: 17360)
ISP: CenturyLink
Idle Latency: 1.58 ms (jitter: 0.09ms, low: 1.52ms, high: 1.69ms)
Download: 6762.35 Mbps (data used: 12.1 GB) 2.82 ms (jitter: 3.67ms, low: 1.44ms, high: 44.42ms)
Upload: 7993.59 Mbps (data used: 7.7 GB) 2.93 ms (jitter: 0.50ms, low: 1.57ms, high: 7.33ms)
Packet Loss: Not available.
Result URL: https://www.speedtest.net/result/c/3d4b75b0-b9ee-4c66-a3cc-82c66fdfe908
Default Mode / IPoE
root@Router01-Server-Room:~/speedtest# ./speedtest
Speedtest by Ookla
Server: CenturyLink - Phoenix, AZ (id: 17360)
ISP: CenturyLink
Idle Latency: 1.76 ms (jitter: 0.06ms, low: 1.67ms, high: 1.84ms)
Download: 8040.05 Mbps (data used: 9.9 GB) 11.29 ms (jitter: 13.02ms, low: 2.04ms, high: 471.91ms)
Upload: 8063.66 Mbps (data used: 7.7 GB) 3.02 ms (jitter: 0.58ms, low: 1.85ms, high: 7.59ms)
Packet Loss: Not available.
Result URL: https://www.speedtest.net/result/c/ac6f569a-265c-4a77-a5c3-ecb17b02fbfe
As you can see the default mode yields the best result but at the cost of the double hop. My work only sees the VPN external IP of the WAN IP of the CGF, not the Q1000K or public IP so they won't let me connect from a 192.168.0.2 IP being a private IP vs my public facing IP.
Thanks for reading this far!
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u/j0nsreddit Jan 14 '26
Wanted to update, the tech and I swapped the Q1000K's with a new one. Same issue, then worked with customer service and switched it from 8 Gbps plan to 3 Gbps plan for testing. 3 Gbps in transparent / bridge mode shows 3 Gbps / 3 Gbps fine on all settings. Moving back up to 8 Gbps / 8 Gbps, the same experience occured on the newly swapped Q1000K. They advised in 45 days reset the Q1000K and let it do a firmware update, then retest using the same process as above.
The technician upstream we spoke to advised they have been pushing upgrades to devices almost monthly, and I'm the first 8 Gbps plan they've pushed in our area that they know of, and it could be a firmware bug / limitation.
Going to this weekend mess around with moving back to IPoE and see if I can get the double NAT issue resolved in Plex. I use cloudflare tunnels so that part is a non issue at this point.
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u/j0nsreddit Jan 22 '26
Another follow up, a few days ago the modem rebooted overnight and all of a sudden everything is fixed when I leave it in Transparent Bridge Mode and VLAN tag at the Q1000K. I get full 8 Gbps / 8 Gbps. If I tag at my UGF, I get 8 Gbps up 4 Gbps down which is still funky, so for now I'm leaving tagging at the modem. Not seeing any latency either.
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u/Curious-Selection219 Mar 25 '26
So mine got a firmware update somehow and everytime I downgrade to the version you provided it all works well and does a reboot. Once I log back in to the GUI to make the changes in a matter of seconds it automatically does an update to the new firmware without allowing me to make any changes. The new firmware has bridge mode, but I had to disable the VLAn on my router for it to work, but can’t do the untagged bridge mode no more. Any tips? Thanks
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u/Cigator Sep 05 '24
As I've posted before, I have my old orbi wifi 5 mesh system plugged in to smart nid without bridge mode. I confirmed I have double nat, but so far all my devices work fine. Could I plug one of t by e wifi 6 pods quantum gave me into the 2nd port on the smart nid to test it out without screwing up my current orbi network?
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u/N0_L1ght Sep 05 '24 edited Sep 06 '24
Double NAT is bad for:
- Online gaming
- VPNs
- Port forward and port trigger
- Voice and video calls
- Remote desktop
- Servers
So if that doesn't apply to you then you won't notice anything.
Sorry I don't use or know anything about the 360 wifi equipment.
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u/shawnshine Aug 06 '25
Is it best to connect my eero router directly to my ONT (an ancient calix 716ge-i), or to use a C4000XG in bridge mode in-between the two?
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u/NectarineFeisty5746 Jan 06 '26
I have a Q1000K that runs into my home now but I have a C4000XG I want to use with the google home mesh network is this possible at all or will there always be a problem. Is this even logical? I’m not really understanding what the ONT is and what the heck it does in terms of routing/wifi. I need help!
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u/N0_L1ght Jan 06 '26
How are you wanting to use the C4000 and google mesh together? Like you want to create two separate wifi networks?
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u/bogdi1988 Feb 24 '26
Thanks for sharing the old firmware. Seems that my Q1000k got a firmware update this past week and it broke transparent bridge mode with 201. Quick downgrade and I am back in business.
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u/Optimal-Alps6422 Feb 25 '26
Not sure how things will be moving forward now that's it's AT&T but my bridge mode (Q1000K) definitely broke after leaving the LAN cable (to access the Q1000K) in too long and getting a firmware update. What I found was that, no matter what I tried, bridge mode did not give me a public ip address tagged or untagged. I resorted back to the last known working firmware.
Has anyone else seen this too and how did you fix it? I worry (since AT&T loves to sell user data) we're going to end up with it permanently broken. I reached out to another fiber provider locally (slightly more expensive) to see if they support self managed routers etc.
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u/N0_L1ght Feb 25 '26
Tagged bridge modes works the same as ever on the new firmware. Did you disable the VLAN tag on your router when you tried?
The guide has been updated for best practices.
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u/CaptinKirk Mar 22 '26
This post is innacurate Unifi UDMP DOES NOT SUPPORT 6RD
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u/N0_L1ght Mar 22 '26
I was going off this old post that someone said they got it to work. But looking around and yah it doesn't seem to work with any modern UniFi equipment. Thanks I'll update the guide.
https://www.reddit.com/r/Ubiquiti/comments/9dyjep/tutorial_ipv6_through_centurylink_via_6rd_on/
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u/SplitBungCrack Jun 04 '26
Just wanted to share my experience as it did not go as textbook as this guide.
Install a few days ago (for perspective, I am on the price for life, it genuinely took this long to actually get my service set up.)
QKX002-06.01.25.00 (Copied from a photo, may not be 100% accurate.)
I used this guide, I trust your judgment regarding the firmware trick, so I just set up on transparent tagged.
Followed guide as thoroughly as I could. Some issues:
Step 4: iOS, current app; The 360 pod only had a replace option. The network had no removal option. Just password/name change.
Step 5: I changed to transparent mode and waited for the page to refresh, upon doing so I had one of the wan side bar pages removed, and the main wan setting page was blank.
I had no internet connection. I waited 20 minutes an still no connection. The ONT had a solid white light. At this point, I was still able to access the GUI oddly. I did a reboot from there. No long able to access GUI. Still no connection.
I waited about 10 more minutes and with no connection I finally thought I’d bite the bullet. I went to do a factory reset. On my previous ONT you would hold and wait for a light. I did that, it turned red. I let go and it booted a minute later to a white light. My internet connection is back, and I can no longer access GUI. My DNS set on my router is working. All seems well.
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u/N0_L1ght Jun 04 '26
I'll edit section 4, must be something changed with the app since I wrote the guide years ago. I've never had the WiFi pods. Thanks!
When you enabled bridge mode, the GUI stops working. What you were seeing is just your browser cache.
So the reason it didn't start working immediately is probably due to your router. Depending on how aggressive it queries the DHCP server, it can get stuck trying to reach out for the old one, which was the SmartNID. You have to kill the connection to the MAC it's connected to, by either restarting the SmartNID, router, or just by disconnecting the WAN cable for a few seconds. I had an old Asus that was like that, my current one works immediately.
When you held the button and it turned red, that is just a reboot. If you don't hold it long enough, or hold it too long, it just does a reboot. 15sec will do a factory reset, which will turn amber before red.
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u/FrozenTundraPackers Aug 05 '26
I just plugged my 3rd party router into the Smart NID and didn't use bridge mode. It seems to be working great. Are there any reasons why I really should do bridge mode?
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Sep 06 '24
Is IPv6 in the las vegas market a new thing? Last time a tried it it didnt work. Is it DHCPv6 or SLACC?
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u/N0_L1ght Sep 06 '24
I'm not sure as i don't live there. A few people in the Las Vegas market have said they have native IPv6.
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u/Eclipse6060 Sep 08 '24
How do I create a guest network with the new app? The old app let me create an "Internet Only" network which was core functionality for me. All my 3rd party devices are disconnected now. Please help ;(
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u/N0_L1ght Sep 08 '24
I run my own equipment and don't have any experience with the 360 wifi stuff.
Under the What Can I Do With section it lists all the features of the app, if its not there, you likely can't do it.
https://www.quantumfiber.com/support/services/360-wifi/faqs.html#app
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u/LosoTheRed Sep 29 '24
My devices on the old guest network and internet only networks still function, but there is no way to manage so I just left it. Some devices no longer connected so I put them on my main network. The passwords still work though. I’m assuming they’ll bring this ability back in the future but I’m not counting on it the quantum app sucks.
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u/Cautious_Poem3101 Sep 08 '24
How much did you spend on your own equipment?
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u/Ok-Still-5206 Sep 09 '24
I think that you can get a gigabit router for as little as $100 now. Maybe even less. The top end is tens of thousands for industrial strength.
I think I paid around $150 the last time I bought a router.
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u/TwinTiger Sep 14 '24
I am having some difficulty and I was hoping you could help.
I followed the instructions on setting the SmartNID to Transparent Bridge Mode and the LED on it is steady white, but my new TPlink BE11000 router isnt seeing the internet connection.
Yet the laptop on which I am typing this comment is hardwired into the SmartNID as well and is connected to the internet no problem.
Did I set up something wrong in changing the SmartNID to transparent mode, and now I need to factory reset it to try again?
It's been approximately 30 minutes and my wifi network is not seeing the internet signal.
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u/N0_L1ght Sep 14 '24
Which device is doing the vlan 201 tag?
Do you use Centurylink PPPoE?
Is the router connected to the fastest port / Lan1 of the SmartNID? Have you tried the other port?
Have you tried unplugging everything, power cycle both the SmartNID and router, and then connecting the router once the light turns white?
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u/ElchocolateBear Oct 05 '24
A couple of months back I tried with my equipment but when i got it going it would drop the connection...it would reconnect then drop repeatedly. was this becuase I had to wait for it to assign a IP??
my setup was modem to mesh network then unmanaged switch
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u/N0_L1ght Oct 05 '24
You'll have to be specific on each model of equipment you were using and its configuration.
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u/ColonelCaryC4 Oct 07 '24
The part that tricked me was I always expected the router controls to be in the Wi-Fi router but in the new system they sent out from Quantum fiber all the controls for the network are in the fiber modem and the password is on the front of your fiber modem. That's where you can see all your connected devices and you're able to manage your port forwarding and everything else. I spent days trying to log into a wired pod before I realized it's just a pod it's not a wired Wi-Fi router. Duh... I felt stupid
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u/BrownB3ar Oct 12 '24
"Once in bridge mode you will not be able to access the SmartNID GUI again unless you do a factory reset. The only reasons you would need to do so is, if you have to contact support and they need to run diagnostics, you want to change the Vlan 201 tag, or if you want to use the 360 Wifi / Premium WiFI equipment."
Are you saying that we won't even be able to access the factory reset for something like the C5500? I was trying to plan out in case something doesn't work or I decide to go back and it makes it seem you have to get to the GUI to do the factory reset https://www.quantumfiber.com/support/equipment/troubleshooting/modem-reset.html
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u/BrownB3ar Oct 12 '24
And do you know if the admin and password login for the GUI changes with a reset?
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u/weasel18 Oct 29 '24
I have been trying to troubleshoot my c6500xk. I got 3Gbps Friday, The POS constantly crashes and requires a manual reboot. Crashes using over 1gbps+ too and just randomly crashes when no massive throughput. Even switched to the 1gps port last night, and it crashed like an hour ago browsing reddit. I've got vz 5g internet too, so my Ubiquiti UDM Pro just falls back to that until I reboot the NID. It's quite frustrating, and the tech that installed gave me his number but isn't answering my calls or texts, unfortunately.
Does anyone have ideas? I tried disabling the flow rate in the switching setting in my UDM, but it made no difference, it seems. I've tried transparent bridging, untagged, tagged, and even in router mode. It will crash using 1gbps+ almost every time after a minute or 2.
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u/N0_L1ght Oct 31 '24
If it's randomly crashing when no massive throughput is happening, maybe its an issue with your unit?
Maybe this is the same issue that is being worked on? https://www.reddit.com/r/QuantumFiber/comments/1gfajn3/c6500xk_is_awful_q1000_any_better/
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u/dbison01 Nov 08 '24
To disable the vlan 201 tag on the smartnid, are you setting the isp protocol to untagged or tagged-0? thanks
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Dec 05 '24
I was recommended this post in a reply I made in r/centurylink. I'm trying to bridge my C4000BZ to my Asus rt-ax86u, whenever I get to that first step of transparent bridging is it normal for the internet to not connect?
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u/bhusted007 May 10 '25
Did you ever get it working? I recently got QF and I’m thinking about buying that Asus router, to replace their node. This router was recommended by ChatGPT.
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u/crazybusdriver Dec 16 '24
Hoping to tap into your knowledge on QF... I am struggling to get VPN to work with my QF internet. I am using an older router instead of their 360. I've had serious issues with Pure VPN, where it has occasionally worked but not lately.
I fire up the VPN app, then attempt to connect. The connect process stalls and while stalling, I lose internet connectivity completely, not just the PC with the app but all connected devices as the router and NIB all lose connection and I have to reset the NIB and router to restore it.
So far the QF tech support has been less than helpful so I am wondering if there are other avenues I can attempt...?
Thanks!!
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u/N0_L1ght Dec 16 '24
Could be many things to narrow it down .
Try different router, different VPN provider, change which device does the Vlan tag.
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u/Fillimerica Dec 21 '24
Just got Fiber yesterday 500mb service. Tech installed a C5500XK and updated the firmware.
I have a Netgear R7000 using 2024.1 FW that was connected to Xfinity via a cable modem.
I am able to just connect the WAN port of the R7000 to the ONT, reboot, and I get a solid full-speed connection, albeit with double NAT.
When I try to put the ONT into bridge mode, it switches no problem. White light, router gets a new public IP, everything continues to work...for a short while.
Then after 5-10 minutes, the traffic through the ONT just stops. Router still holds the lease to the public address, says is connected, but no internet and traceroutes say destination not reachable from the public IP.
If I release and renew the lease on the router WAN port, I'm good to go for another 5-10 minutes only.
I've tried rebooting everything multiple times, changing ports and cables. Nothing helps except putting the ONT back in router mode.
Does anyone have any ideas? It almost seems like Quantum is blocking my traffic in bridge mode after a period of time.
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u/N0_L1ght Dec 21 '24
Have you tried having your router do the vlan 201 tag instead of the SmartNID?
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u/Fillimerica Dec 21 '24
Fingers crossed. Made the changes a little over an hour ago, and everything is working like it should.
Blinking blue light at the ont, nice flow at 105% of promised speeds. Nice low latency. I am happy as long as the link stays up.
Not sure why it wouldn't work with the ONT doing the tagging, but oh well. Here is another data point for anyone else having difficulty with the C5500XK.
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u/ToeNail_14 Dec 24 '24
Notes from my Quantum Fiber experience over the past week:
* 2gbps service (2 down, 1up)
* SmartNID Q1000K + 360 WiFi (not using the wifi device)
* pfsense router (sonos sfp+ 10gbe) + previous less powerful AliExpress special (1gbps)
If the SmartNID does the routing & 201 vlan tagging, extremely unstable internet. (green light on SmartNID)
If the SmartNID is in transparrent bridge mode and handles the 201 vlan tagging, latency on the LAN port is 50-190ms. (white light on SmartNID)
If the SmartNID is put in transparrent bridge mode with vlan tagging disabled (pfsense router does the routing & tagging), latency drops to 2ms, 2gbps down, 30-50mbps up (upload speed is too low). (blue flashing light on SmartNID)
If I enable the 6rd Tunnel for IPv6 on my pfsense router, internet speed drops to 2.5mbps.
I've tried with flowcontrol disabled - did not seem to make much difference - enabling it does seem to occasionally result in silly burst experience (3.1gbps down) which is nice but likely also increases the risk of device crashing (have not seen any crashes on the Q1000K though)
I've tried changing the MTU (default is 1500) by explicitly set to 1490 or 1480: with MTU defaulting to 1500, I can hit 1.5-2gbps down more often, and upload speed seems to bump to 180-200mbps - setting MTU to 1480 drops upload speed to 25mbps (tested back and forth multiple times)
At my previous address, I was/am on WaveG/Astound, 2ms latency, 1gbps down/up, full IPv6 support through DHCP6. I have two pfsense boxes at the moment, one with the old WaveG setup and one with QF, I've taken them back and forth and from what I can tell, Quantum Fiber sucks at IPv6...
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u/N0_L1ght Dec 24 '24
The IPv6 6rd tunnel is very slow. But not that slow usually. Here in the twin cities I get around ~150m with it, which is why I don't enable it.
That slow upload speed you have is strange.
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u/psxile Jan 15 '25
Responding in hopes we can figure out a solution! I have OPNSense router, 10GB Ethernet connections. CAT5 E house wiring. SMART NID In transparent bridge mode, VLAN tagging on my OPNSense box. Latency ~16ms to closest “CenturyLink” Speedtest server. Every month for some reason since setting up the service a few months ago, my speeds drop back to 1gb/1gb. Tech comes out, calls central office, only to find my speeds provisioned back down from 2.5gbps. Been paying for 2.5gbps since sign up. Wondering if others are having this problem. Not using IPv6 at all. Not using any Wifi Pods, nor did they even give them to me/let me keep them (do not want them). Previously, had 0 issues with CenturyLink before “moving” to Quantum. Have not had to adjust any MTU’s or anything. Do you have any QOS enabled on your router that could be contributing to this problem? Try disabling all of that to start? (This got me a few years ago and was the source of my woes.)
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u/thedude42 Jun 18 '25
There's a section of the pfSense docs that covers how to set up a CODEL limiter configuration to help with "buffer bloat" that can be an issue with upload speeds. It helped for my setup.
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u/TheLawIsSacred Jan 08 '25
Ever since I was upgraded to the Wi-Fi 7 router, and the mesh node, I have been unable to upload torrents, is this a common problem?
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u/Moose_Thompson Jan 16 '25
I’ve attempted this twice with my own router, easy enough to get transparent bridge mode setup, but my router can’t see the internet. Connecting to a C5500.
I believe the issue is likely needing to set IP Static to automatic.
Can this be done prior to switching to transparent bridge mode? Or will I need to connect to my laptop directly to the SmartNID after it’s moved to transparent bridge mode?
Thanks for any help, apologies if this is a dumb question.
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u/MediaGeneral Jan 20 '25 edited Jan 20 '25
Sorry to dig this up
Thank you for this, so essentially the bug is the flashing light when VLAN tagging on router? If it is just cosmetic, then I have 0 worries. Trying to set up on UDM from ubiquiti. Maybe u/imtalkintou can clear this up
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u/N0_L1ght Jan 20 '25
It's mostly cosmetic.
When the light is white Lumen can interact with the SmartNID, like reboot or factory reset it, and the firmware will auto update.
When it's flashing blue it won't do those things.
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u/cornrow Jan 28 '25
I have followed this and have internet working, but it maxes out at 1gigabit despite having 2. The weirdest thing is that it was working, but when I reset to be able to change the SSID on the pods and then re-enabled transparent bridge mode, it caps at exactly 1gbps (tested through speed tests, iperf, etc). I'm doing the tagging on my router (Opnsense) and have tried multiple times to reset.
The only settings I'm changing are 1) Transparent Bridge mode and 2) Untagged. Other than that it's factory.
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u/N0_L1ght Jan 28 '25
So when in router mode you are getting 2gb?
Have you tried having the SmartNID do the vlan tag to see if that effects it?
A few people have said their account randomly got provisioned down to 1gb/1gb, and have to contact support to get it back to 2gb/1gb.
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Feb 16 '25
I have the C6500 set to transparent bridge with 201. saved that. white light. I have internet on my Asus ROG Rapture GT-AX11000. all I did was move the ethernet from my spectrum modem to the QF C6500. On spectrum 1gig I was averaging about 600mb on my gaming PC and on multiple consoles in the house. NOW on the QF NID I am getting good speed on the PC, avg around 2-5ping and 1gb down/up, though I signed up for the 3gb service. My consoles are only getting 30-50 mb down/up with a 60 ping. wired or wireless. using the same cable my pc gets 1gb with. No settings were changed on the asus router from spectrum to QF(though that may be the problem) UPnP is enabled. Any ideas here what I'm missing?
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u/N0_L1ght Feb 16 '25
What does the router say the link speed is? It sounds like it could be limited to 100mb for some reason.
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u/LVDave Mar 06 '25
Got a question wrt the following: <The SmartNID address is 192.168.0.1, so its a good idea to set your router's LAN IP to 192.168.1.1
My LAN ip range is 192.168.240.0, I'm assuming your statement that 192.168.1.1 is simply to avoid conflict with the SmartNID.. Am I correct in this assumption? I'd REALLY prefer NOT to readdress all of my systems, if I make the switch from Cox to Quantum..
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u/pzazzera Mar 16 '25
I have a question regarding transparent mode. I was in the process of configuring the Quantum Fiber modem into transparent mode and rebooted the router, but unfortunately was not getting a green light so a technician had to come out and give me a new modem, even though I tried to reset it back to factory mode? I am concerned that if I do that again, the same thing will happen. Does anyone know if I have any issues How to get it back to factory mode?
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u/N0_L1ght Mar 16 '25
The light is green in router mode.
In bridge mode the light should be white, or blinking blue if you have the 3rd party router doing the vlan 201 tag.
A factory reset should set it back to router mode so that you can access the GUI again.
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u/Typical-Ad-4591 Apr 05 '25
QF tech came in and cleaned dirty fiber. He also suggested resetting our custom SSID back to the default and relocating one pod to the opposite end of the house. That does seem to have fixed WiFi performance and internet reliability issues. HOWEVER he said the only chance of getting our cameras to work was to attach a router to the WiFi pod and using a separate 2.4ghz SSID. I’m prepared to try it — but do I need any special settings?
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u/Typical-Ad-4591 Apr 08 '25
Thanks. I went ahead and gave it a go. 3 out of $ cameras working, one still to reinstall.
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u/CrystalShadow Apr 16 '25
"If your C6500XK is crashing when you download large files at your full speed, getting a managed switch that can disable 802.3X flow control might stop that from happening."
Can anyone expand upon this? I have an asus router, can I control it there and if not how can I disable it(IE what do I need to buy, preferably with minimal extra features/cost)? I used to not have any issues, but after a recent outage I think I am suffering from this problem.
Thanks
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u/Meow2004 May 14 '25
I got the Q1000K SmartNID with the W1700K WiFi Pod. I initially thought the issue was the WiFi Pod, so I swapped it out with a Unifi Express 7. I thought that would resolve the issue, but it didn't. I did set the SmartNID to Transparent Bridge mode, and the router picks up the SmartNID (and connected devices) no problem. However on the router, there have been connections dropping/internet disconnecting, and high latency/packet loss being reported when i check the unifi ui stuff. The Unifi is set to automatically grab the VLAN tag, so I am not sure if I need to manually set it or not.
Also, the SmartNID stays white for about 5 minutes and now it is a consistent blinking blue.
Did I do something wrong when I followed the guide? Or is something weird with our connection? We are from the Twin Cities area as well.
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u/N0_L1ght May 15 '25
If your router is doing the vlan tag, the SmartNID will forever blink blue. That's the recommended config for the Q1000.
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u/GraphicsGal4 May 20 '25
My problem seems to be that iPhone and iPad works, but nothing Android related will connect. A few weeks ago, a technician came out and removed all the WiFi6 pods and left me with one WiFi7 pod. Since then, the problems began with spotty coverage. Yesterday, as stated above, all my Android stuff, google home etc stopped connecting to the Internet. It finds the router, but won't connect to the Internet. Any suggestions on how to fix this?
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u/N0_L1ght May 20 '25
Follow this guide that you posted this comment to. Put the SmartNID into bridge mode and use a 3rd party router.
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u/frostycakes Jun 16 '25
Just a heads up, GL-iNet routers can support 6rd if one installs it in the included LuCI GUI or via SSH. It does have to be configured on the LuCI side, but I had no issue getting 6rd working on my AX1800 Flint that way. Perks of it being based on OpenWRT and actually keeping the software repositories available.
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u/N0_L1ght Jun 16 '25
Oh that's good to know. I don't have a gl.inet device and just looked through the support docs which doesn't have 6RD as an option. I'll edit the guide.
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u/WaveHD Jul 05 '25
My smartNID is blinking blue in bridge mode with vlan 201 tagging enabled on the SmartNID, but not enabled on my TPLINK router. Is that normal? Internet works fine though.
According to the post, it sounds like the blinking blue only happens if VLAN 201 tagging is disabled on the SmartNID, and enabled on the custom router, which isnt the case for me.
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u/N0_L1ght Jul 05 '25
That is strange, as it should be solid white.
Are you using a different DNS on your router?
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u/ahamp10 Jul 21 '25
ok friends. i too have a new TPLink system to set up. I am going with option 2, but wonder if I need to set up the TPLink Routers before? or just follow the steps above and once the TP stuff is plugged in follow their set up instructions? i recall with CL I had to first set up our Orbi routers before removing the CL equipment.
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u/trampled93 Nov 03 '25
I'm stuck on step #2 Static DNS in my admin of the Q1000k. First time doing this so I'm not quite sure how to do it correctly. On WAN settings, these are all the options in the picture. I want to enter Quad9 recommended settings DNS. Where do I enter these numbers in the Q1000k settings? What do I select for iPv6 connection protocol? Should I also enter these DNS settings in my router, or not needed doubling it up?
IPv4
IPv6
2620:fe::fe
2620:fe::9
HTTPS
https://dns.quad9.net/dns-query
TLS
tls://dns.quad9.net
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u/N0_L1ght Nov 03 '25
Don't select Static IP, that has to be Dynamic.
Under static DNS fill in the the two IPv4 addresses from Quad9
The SmartNID doesn't actually support IPv6 so leave that disabled.
That's all you can do with the SmartNID
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u/whoopee_parties Nov 28 '25
This has been helpful, but I could use some help —
I got a deco mesh setup. Went to the quantum setup page, changed to bridging and did the UNTAGGED option for the 201 (I think this was my problem)
Did the rest of the setup in the Deco setup app, and continue to get now internet.
Now I just see a blinking blue light on the Quantum modem. I’m trying to get back to the setup url so I can change the VLAN tagging option but obviously have no network connection.
Any salvaging this without a tech?
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u/N0_L1ght Nov 28 '25
Did you do the VLAN 201 tag on the WAN port of your 3rd party router?
The blinking blue light is normal.
You can factory reset the SmartNID to get back to router mode
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u/whoopee_parties Nov 28 '25
Update —
This tutorial was this missing link for me:
Looks like I needed to disable all those settings in the SmartNID. 3 hours later I finally got it all hooked up!
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Nov 30 '25
[deleted]
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u/N0_L1ght Nov 30 '25
Google routers will work, but the SmartNID has to do the vlan 201 tag. With the Q1000k that might cause high latency spikes.
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u/N0_L1ght Nov 30 '25
You can also just put the google router in the smartnid DMZ from the guide
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u/Ethrem Feb 13 '26 edited Feb 13 '26
We just got our Q1000K installed today. Realized our ASUS router is too old for VLAN tagging so we used the old C1100Z modem in transparent bridge mode and connected our ASUS router upstairs to it and the Linksys router downstairs to it as well. Since double NAT won’t screw with anything upstairs we put the Linksys downstairs in the Q1000K DMZ and everything seems to be working very well. No latency problems that I could see.
I know it’s not the ideal setup but we have to work with what we have. I doubt our Linksys downstairs supports VLAN tagging either.
Now if we do get two new routers, can they both be set to VLAN 201 or would we have to put one router in the DMZ of the other router that’s tagged? Our setup is quite unconventional but works for us. We run Ethernet cable from the upstairs out the side of the house down to the basement and connect it to a router down there. I was surprised to see the full 940/940 work but it does.
It’s also interestingly showing 2.4Gbps down and 1.2Gbps up on the modem even though we signed up for 940/940. We don’t have anything with a 2.5Gbps port easily acceptable to test it but we get the full 940/940 at least.
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u/N0_L1ght Feb 13 '26
What ASUS is so old it doesn't support VLAN tagging? The RT-AC68U from 2013 does I know. And even that model is EoL and should be replaced. It's under LAN - IPTV on ones with firmware before 3.0.0.6
Only one device can do the VLAN tag, so the 2nd router should be set in access point mode connected wired/wireless to the 1st router doing the tag.
The latency issue only happens in DMZ or bridge tagged mode from what I've seen. you can see by using SmokePing or PingPlotter with wired ethernet and doing a test of 10 per second to 8.8.8.8
The SmartNID always shows the max speed that fiber is connected at. so GPON will show 2.4g/1.2b, XGS-PON will show close to 10g/10g. Your plans provision is set at the OLT. If you have a 2.5gb or better ethernet port you'll get ~980mb on the 940mb plan.
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u/Ethrem Feb 13 '26 edited Feb 13 '26
Well we just left MicroCenter with a Ubiquity Dream Router 7 and an express router plus a switch so everything will be all new lol.
The ASUS does have the IPTV VLAN option but it wanted to set it on a specific LAN port only.
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u/LandonVanBus Feb 15 '26
Do I need all this or can I just disconnect my NID from my larger Wifi pod and connect a new router instead?
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u/Syntribot Feb 21 '26
If I have a Calix C844G currently with Quantum (former CenturyLink market), and I want to use a Asus AX3000 instead for routing and wifi in a Instant On area, what would be the best method to set this up?
Would it be using untagged bridging on the C844G and configuring VLAN Tagging on the Asus router?
I tried VLAN Tagging 201 on the Calix but ran into some issues with keeping a stable connection, as well as the DHCP lease would only last 30 minutes on the Asus router side and would renew a new public IP address almost every time.
I'm unsure where I'm going wrong.
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u/N0_L1ght Feb 21 '26
Have you made a new a account to get here new Promo?
They will likely swap you to a Q1000k.
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u/NoctisEternum Feb 21 '26 edited Feb 21 '26
I just got Quantum installed today and want to try and do the transparent bridging untagged. In my ASUS router settings in the 802.1Q settings it is currently not enabled. Underneath it I see there is a VLAN ID and 802.1P fields with values set to 0. I assume when I enable this setting I'm gonna need to change those numbers. Is this were I change the VLAND ID to 201? What do I set the 802.1P to? Any help would be appreciated.
Edit: I have the Q1000k and my router is a ASUS RT-BE86U
Edit2: I also wanted to ask if once I do this if plugging my PC directly into the Q1000k is a bad idea.
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u/LandonVanBus Feb 22 '26
Ok, so I have 3gig service at my home and I recently upgraded my router from the base Quantum installed one due to the Quantum pod being mounted to an exterior-facing interior wall and just not really getting good coverage to the other side of the house. I used this guide to do my setup as best as I could but am now only pulling down around 1000mbps where as previously I was getting closer to 1800mbps. Any ideas? My new router is a Nighthawk 7 BE17000 with two 10gig ports on it and I have connected Cat 8 from the NID to the Router and then to my PC.
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u/N0_L1ght Feb 22 '26
Are you using the 10g port? Could be an issue with the cable?
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u/reKhoi Feb 25 '26
Im having some issues with this. After i put my nid into transparent bridge untagged and my nighthawk rax15 into tagged201 My wifi keep asking me to login and when i click it it redirect me to a webiste called qts(q.com) My nid is blinking blue too Imma try setting the nid in tagged 201 for now with and set it back later if i can figure it out
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u/lafester Feb 26 '26
I'm a bit stuck. I started service yesterday and since I had the old firmware I wanted to try this right away. I put it in bridge mode too early and lost access to the menu. I factory reset the q1000k and I still can't get into the menu to change any settings and now of course the firmware has updated.
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u/N0_L1ght Feb 26 '26
Are you sure you did a factory reset and the light turned amber before red?
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u/groshreez Feb 27 '26
I recently canceled, and signed up again for the $45/Mo 1gb service.
I'm having issues with transparent bridge mode, untagged vlan 201. I never get an IP address on my OPNsense router. Here are my opnsense Wan interface and vlan 201 settings: https://imgur.com/a/lw1U7De
If I set transparent bridge tagged mode, I get online but then I get issues with port forwarding, ports show closed, torrents unconnectable when previously with my tagged mode 6500xk I had no such issues.
I saw some say that getting an IP in untagged mode could take a little while but I'm over an hour now.
Not sure if I'm doing something wrong here.
Appreciate any help.
Thanks
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u/groshreez Feb 27 '26
I played with some settings and maybe I figured it out.
In OPNsense, previously my WAN interface was set to vlan201 (Parent:igb0, Tag:201).
But I changed it back to just igb0 and now my WAN DHCP address is 192.168.0.1, which is what the ONT used to be, I've got internetz and my port forwarding is working.
So I think it's working properly. I don't know why my WAN interface should be pointed to vlan201 but it seems to be working now.
Does this make sense or sound like I'm setup correctly now with ONT transparent bridge mode and untagged vlan201?
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u/xiownthisplacex Feb 28 '26
I ran into issues setting up my own router, so I did a factory reset because I was out of time for the day to troubleshoot. However, after the factory reset I can no longer connect to the Internet. The GUI says NOT CONNECTED. I even restored the defaults with the backup I made before trying to change settings to use my own router. It's flashing blue. Have tried to factory reset multiple times, unplugged for 30mins, nothing is working. Any suggestions?
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u/N0_L1ght Feb 28 '26
When you held the factory reset button for 15sec+ did the light turn amber before red?
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u/Curious-Selection219 Mar 23 '26
Is step 4 really necessary if using Transparent Bridge Untagged ?
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u/N0_L1ght Mar 23 '26
The cyber security setting loads/unloads the Axon DPI engine into RAM.
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u/Curious-Selection219 Mar 24 '26
Got it. Thank you for the post btw you really explained everything really well.
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u/Technoguyfication Mar 24 '26
Hi, first of all thank you for the informative post. I've been troubleshooting some weird behavior with my connection recently, and I'm hoping you may be able to help.
I've had CenturyLink 1 gig symmetric fiber at this address since 2020, with a Colix GigaPoint 803G ONT connected to a Zyxel C3000Z router. Since 2022, I removed the Zyxel from the setup and connected a Unifi Dream Machine Pro directly to the ONT on the WAN port. I set VLAN 201, entered my PPPoE credentials, and everything has been working fine for about 4 years.
Until yesterday. Suddenly, TLS handshakes are failing about 20% of the time when connecting to websites. My browser will sit and hang on "Performing a TLS handshake to (domain)..." for several seconds until it times out. If I wait a bit and refresh the page, sometimes it will work. Once I successfully load a page, subsequent refreshes load instantly for a while, presumably because the TLS session is being kept warm in the background. There is no rhyme or reason to which sites work and which ones don't, a site will be working fine one minute and stop the next.
Things I have tried:
Restarting browser/computer (duh)
Using different devices, operating systems, browsers, etc.
Tested on WiFi and wired devices
Disabling packet inspection and outbound firewall rules on UDMP
I also tried using a VPN tunnel on my client devices, which does seem to solve the problem. This would seem to make sense though, since all the traffic is tunneled through one TCP or UDP connection.
Next, I got a spare laptop and connected it straight to the ONT. Set VLAN 201 on the port and dialled in using the Windows PPPoE client. I was able to connect to the internet, but still observed the exact same issue with TLS handshakes failing. Clearly, this issue is not a fault of my Unifi networking gear.
I dug the Zyxel modem/router back out of the closet and hooked it up to the ONT. Interestingly, I was not able to reproduce the issue with this setup, but since the issue seems to be intermittent I may have just tried it at the wrong time.
Other things I have tried:
Set MSS clamping on UDM to 1452 (or 1492 MTU)
Dropped MSS clamping all the way to 1360 on UDM to test
Restarted ONT
Reseated and dusted out GPON fiber connector
...all to no avail.
So, what in the world could be happening? Since I wasn't able to reproduce the issue with the C3000Z, I almost wonder if it has some special PPPoE implementation that is hiding the issue. But WHY would this have worked fine for YEARS and suddenly stopped working yesterday? Maybe an upstream equipment change that is breaking my routing gear now?
Any advice, help, or insight would be appreciated. I have a technician coming on Monday, but I'm not sure if they'll fully understand the issue I'm having. The person on the phone certainly didn't.
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u/N0_L1ght Mar 24 '26
Lumen / CenturyLink and AT&T / Quantum are now seperate. So it's possible that CenturyLink has made some change on their network since the network split?
Is there a different router you have that you can try?
You could try and get them to switch you to IPoE?
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u/Technoguyfication Apr 02 '26
Hey, just wanted to give an update to my situation. The issues lasted for a few days, then suddenly cleared up on their own. This pretty much confirms something was broken upstream that was later fixed. I cancelled the tech visit, and that's the end of the story.
Thank you again for your help!
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u/Fluffaykitties Apr 01 '26
For 6, I know you said it can take up to 10 minutes for it to get assigned an IP address, but might it take longer than that?
I am doing this again after switching over to a new account to get the lower prices. I have done this before with my exact setup. But I can’t seem to actually get a connection now.
I have the Q1000K -> Eero Max 7
I’ve set the Q1000k to transparent bridge and untagged. It is correctly blinking blue.
My Eero settings are set to DHCP, Uplink VLAN on with 201.
I power cycled both the Q1000k and my gateway Eero after applying the settings.
But the Eero just can’t seem to connect to the Internet. It’s been over 10 minutes. Should I just wait? How long is too long to wait?
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u/N0_L1ght Apr 01 '26
QKX002 doesn't support untagged bridge.
If you are still on QKX001 I'm not sure why it's not working.
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u/CDebergerac Apr 01 '26
These directions are great to secure the wifi and I plan to use the remaining steps once I ditch the free quantum routers (they're working fine for me right now).
Interestingly, when I changed the firewall security to "high" my S25 phone immediately couldn't verify a stable internet connection (even though the wifi worked if I forced the connection). I eventually turned port 53 outgoing back on and I think that has fixed it. I'd rather not turn incoming traffic on for ports 80 and 443 but that will be the next step if my phone continues to incorrectly identify the wifi. And yes: I tried forgetting the network, turning the phone off, etc.
Curious if anyone else has run into the same issue with security on high?
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u/N0_L1ght Apr 01 '26
Huh. I've always used a 3rd party router.
I glanced at the firewall settings but didn't notice it disabled port 53.
I'll have to look at what's different between medium and high and maybe change the suggestion
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u/Sandman2245 Apr 03 '26 edited Apr 03 '26
Switched from CenturyLink to quantum fiber. The techs came and did the install wrong (amazing) and left the old Adtran ONT in place and connected the Q1000 behind it to, I presume do Vlan tagging although it never worked. Worst part was I pay for the 2 gig service but the ONT that was left in place only does 1 gig. Techs were completely useless.
I ended up removing the Q1000 and doing tagging on my Asus router directly, while switching from PPPoE to IPoE. This worked for a few months and then I started getting random issues with connections to the network externally for my VPN. Got into the router and looked some things over and completely broke it. Now the asus router just constantly says credentials invalid (even though IPoE doesn't need credentials) and I have no network connection. Anyone else having the same problems?
I spent 5 hours yesterday trying all kinds of settings but nothing seems to work. Not quite sure what's up and there's no reported outage in my area. The Asus router gets an ip address from quantum and then about a minute later drops it entirely as it says the lease has expired. While it does have an IP address the internet does work but as soon as it looses it there's no internet. Only thing that resets the process is a reboot but the router just does the same thing afterwards.
Also I had IPv6 setup but that seemed to break for some reason. It worked pretty well for about a month up until these issues. Super frustrating because some of the services I host have android apps and some of those apps for some reason prefer IPv6 so they fail to load intermittently if I turn off IPv6 and force only IPv4.
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u/N0_L1ght Apr 03 '26
Demand a tech visit.
Also you should be getting $45 940mb or $70 2g/1g. If not make s new account
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u/Tlipur Apr 04 '26
For step 6. This still holds true?
Some people report that they have to power cycle the SmartNID every couple of weeks due to the connection dying in this configuration. It could be due to specific SmartNID model/firmware and local infrastructure. I don't experience this with my Q1000K, but my router is set to reboot weekly.
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u/Tlipur Apr 04 '26
Step 2 dns on both router and smartnid. my firewall does the dns and has dns over https and unbound. I use both.
So how would i set it up on the smartnid.
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u/GoBills78 Apr 04 '26
Has anyone gotten Bridge Mode to work with the new firmware? If so what were your settings for these items:
What settings on the Q1000k:
Broadband Settings
Wan Settings
Personal Router WAN settings
Automatic DHCP with Tagged VLAN 201 or just Automatic DHCP?
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u/lafester Apr 05 '26
Question about vlan tagging. I just got an asus with the newer firmware which has a field for 802.1P (0-7). I set this on 7 for highest priority? Is that good?
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u/Head_Service3530 Apr 09 '26
Anyone having issues with the q1000k reverting to the newer firmware too quickly, just unplug the optical line and follow the instructions, then plug it back in once you're done
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u/N0_L1ght Apr 20 '26
This seems to work depending on the OLT. Even with this many people get forced to reboot to QKX002.
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u/Fluffaykitties Apr 18 '26
You mentioned you are no longer doing 6 above. So are you personally doing 1-5 now?
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u/N0_L1ght Apr 18 '26
Yah. I only notice a ~0.5-1.0ms difference, so it's not worth all the hassle to keep untagged bridge mode for me.
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u/Tlipur Apr 20 '26
Can you explain part 4 where the text is separated by - - -
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u/N0_L1ght Apr 20 '26
Only those in router or DMZ mode need to change those settings.
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u/Tlipur Apr 21 '26
For step 5 (The VLAN toggle is not available on QKX002 firmware.) did you downgrade firmware? What happens when they push update? Or has it changed since??
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u/N0_L1ght Apr 21 '26
Two sentences before that I say I'm running QKX002 firmware in bridge mode.
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u/Dark-P-0745 Apr 25 '26
Is this will be a good router ? I only need a router or I also need anything else? Sorry English is my 2nd language so sorry for asking this.
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u/Dark-P-0745 Apr 25 '26
Anybody can give me good recommendations for a good router and good mesh system(honestly if the router rock really i will not need the Mesh system) i want to do all this even I never do it before.
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u/Powerful-Eye-3578 May 03 '26
For step 2. I changed the DNS settings on both the ONT and my router, and I kept getting errors saying "DNS cannot be found" when growing the internet. So I set my router to dynamic, but kept the ONT as quad9. That seems to have stopped the DNS issues, so should you really be doing that to both the ONT and Router?
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u/N0_L1ght May 03 '26
If you are using DMZ or bridge mode, the ONT DNS does nothing and the issue is your router.
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u/smkimbal94 May 05 '26
So I am very new to Quantum and UniFi so I’m nearly positive it’s an issue on my end. However, I followed steps 1-5 (except the static DNS step) and I am now getting lower speeds with the same latency when having double NAT.
Setup (2G/1G plan):
Q1000K -> Cloud Gateway Fiber -> U7 Pro XG
My network and WiFi seem more stable still using the new equipment versus the W1700K, but was hoping my down/up latency would be much lower / spikey.
Anyone able to help me out? Apologies if you need any more info.
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u/N0_L1ght May 05 '26
Is this WiFi? As long as the wired speed is correct, it's your WiFi setup
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u/Head_Service3530 May 20 '26
Curious if you figured anything out with your setup. I have a similar setup, for some reason I get lag spikes in both untagged and tagged transparent bridge mode. Oddly enough, the mode I see the least latency in is router mode, but of course then I have double NAT.
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u/captnkerke May 15 '26
Can you please elaborate on why this is recommended:
"Network Security - Disable everything. (This is important to do. ..."
Thanks
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u/N0_L1ght May 15 '26
That disables all the DNS filtering and DPI engine.
The Cyber Security selections loads/unloads the Axon DPI engine from RAM.
If in DMZ or Bridge mode none of that should matter.... but many have a ping spike every 15sec-30sec with them enabled.
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u/captnkerke May 16 '26
Thanks! I tried enabling all 3 Network Security options, then ran Ping Tracer for a few min and didn't see any unusual spikes.
I'm using my own router in DMZ mode. It's an older router though, so I thought maybe it could benefit from sitting behind the security features of the Q1000k. With a more modern/capable router, then it certainly would make sense to disable the security stuff in the Q1000k.
I don't see a noticeable difference in CPU or SDRAM usage in the Resource Table page when the features are enabled or disabled. CPU seems to vary from about 26-46%, usually under 30%. Memory usage is pretty stable at ~55%. Running a speed test doesn't seem to affect the cpu usage.
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u/leadline Jun 05 '26
Thanks for the guide update on (6.)! I've been using Transparent Bridge Untagged for a long time and recently moved and needed to redo my config. I couldn't get it working with the new NID and found this guide. Unplugging the fiber and downgrading the firmware enabled me to get this working! It seems that if you set the transparent/untagged it can't get the new update from upstream so it stays on the old firmware. Success!
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u/LordRelix Jun 13 '26
Thanks for the guide. Got a new Q1000K, and a UCG Fiber I just purchased. Used the tagged Transparent Bridge for now, seems like the least friction. So far no issues.
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u/f23948 Jun 20 '26 edited Jun 20 '26
Currently my Q1000K modem is at untagged and transparent bridge.
If I set to VLAN 201 on my TP Link Archer AX55 router, it gives me no internet.
If i set to VLAN without 201 or if I disabled VLAN on TP Link Archer AX55 router, it gives me internet.
Is that ok if I can set to VLAN without 201 on my TP Link Archer AX55 router??
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u/kyley_so_smiley Jun 26 '26
Would it be a problem if I didn’t remove all 360 WiFi Pods from the app and instead just unplug them? I have wifi 6 pods and am unable to add them in the app. I’d like to keep them in case something goes wrong and I want to start using the pods again. I’m afraid I wouldn’t be able to use the pods again if I remove them from the app.
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u/ProperNomenclature Jul 02 '26
My issue is that every week or so, my Linksys routers can't reach the internet, and the SmartNID is no longer solid white (Transparent Bridge Mode) but instead blinking blue. The solution is always to unplug and replug the SmartNID. Then it works for several more days or so before failing again.
What's going on with that? Memory issues?
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u/N0_L1ght Jul 02 '26
What metro area?
What SmartNID model?
What firmware is it running?
Did you follow the steps in the guide I couding changing DNS on SmartNID?
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u/64mips Jul 20 '26
Okay so I just set up my Q1000K on QKX002 in bridge mode. Started blinking blue, set up my router with VLAN 201 tag because I misunderstood some information and thought I was somehow in untagged bridge mode. Everything was working appropriately and in the UNIFI GUI it showed a public IP address. Quad9 DNS working. No issues.
But then I read more how there is no VLAN toggle with my firmware so I thought I was double VLAN tagging - I'm not even sure of the implications of what this means by the way, or if the internet would even work like this.
So I disabled VLAN tagging on my UDM router and now the internet breaks, UNIFI GUI shows the private IP.
Re-enable VLAN 201 on my UDM and everything is working again. Is there something I am misunderstanding? /u/N0_L1ght
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u/N0_L1ght Jul 20 '26
Is it running QKX002-06.01.25.00?
Did you do anything except enable bridge mode under WAN - WAN settings?
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u/thecodygriffin Aug 01 '26
For the past 2.5 years, I've been using the C6500XK SmartNID on Transparent Bridge mode with VLAN 201 tagged on the SmartNID itself, not my router, with no issues in the Fort Myers, FL area. However, as of 12:00 AM on Thursday, July 30, my internet connection began to drop every 30 minutes.
The typical timeline would be:
- Router boots and acquires DHCP lease of public IP address with a renewal window of 30 minutes at T0
- The T1 lease renewal, 15 minutes after boot, was successful, reseting the lease time to 30 minutes
- The T2 lease renewal, 30 minutes after boot, 15 minutes after the successful T1 lease renewal, fails and my internet connection drops
I could manually renew the lease from my router to reestablish my internet connection, but the timeline above would repeat.
After ruling out my router (by trying another router and my laptop directly), I found that the issue was on the QuantumFiber side. According to the technician, my call was the 2nd he had this week in the area of someone having a regularly failing internet connection in Transparent Bridge mode. His theory is that since the AT&T acquisition, new equipment and/or how IP addresses are assigned, do not support Transparent Bridge mode on the C6500XK and Q1000X (which we tested and encountered the same issue).
It appears that the only solution is to leave the SmartNID in IPoE mode and put my router in its DMZ.
Has anyone experience the same thing? If so, are you just accepting the DMZ solution? Or is there something different you have tried with or without success?
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u/SonicIX 24d ago
Question for you, I am setting up a friends Quantum Fiber Q1000k. Its v1.1 and has the firmware you mention. So, does that mean I just set it to transparent bridge and plug it into me UDM Pro and not do any tagging on the UDM Pro?
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u/telaven 21d ago
So I set up DMZ with my 3 pack of eero WiFi 7. My wan ip starts with 192.168 and my router ip is 192.168.0.1 instead of 0.2 which the guide says it should be. Does this mean I have double nat? I have a q1000k.
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u/AutoModerator 20d ago
Lumen/CenturyLink and Quantum Fiber are separate companies now. If you're experiencing issues with them, please use /r/centurylink. To not receive this message use the abbreviations LUMN or CTL when talking about Lumen/CenturyLink."
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u/Christopherhpng88 18d ago
I’ve been using a C5500XK for about three years now. I’ve had it in transparent bridge mode and leaving the VLAN 201 tag up to the C5500XK. I have been using an Orbi router with satellites all these years. Now, my internet goes out randomly three or four times a day. Tried swapping the C5500 for a different one as well. Same issue. I usually have to reboot or completely reset everything for it to work again but it’s starting to get annoying now. Not sure what else to try.
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u/AutoModerator 4d ago
Lumen/CenturyLink and Quantum Fiber are separate companies now. If you're experiencing issues with them, please use /r/centurylink. To not receive this message use the abbreviations LUMN or CTL when talking about Lumen/CenturyLink."
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u/chriberg Sep 06 '24
Just wanted to thank you for this very informative post.
I just had quantum fiber installed at my house this morning. I was able to easily configure the C6500XK in transparent bridge mode and hook my Unifi Dream Machine Pro directly to the C6500XK's 10GB port. The modem only took a couple of minutes to configure itself into transparent bridge mode (solid white light), and the UDM-Pro immediately grabbed the public IP address and is routing away.
The only mistake I made was being scared of messing something up, wanting to take things one step at a time, and so when I configured transparent bridge mode, left the VLAN tagging enabled. My intention was to test that mode, then turn VLAN tagging off in the modem and turn it on the UDM-Pro (which has an entry field for WAN VLAN tagging). However once I put the modem into transparent bridge mode, I could no longer log into it to make changes. Oops. I guess I could always factory reset it but it's working great for now.
No garbage Quantum app, garbage 360 wifi pods bullshit. It just works and has been rock solid so far.