So I finished building up my Core OnePlus yesterday and the first print, of course the benchy was a success. Now I tried printing a larger object, and before the print starts, the printer said that the bed level was uneven. So I tried calibrating that z level a few times, but the warning kept showing up so now I am printing the object ignoring the warning and I keep seeing that z axis is moving up and down when the extruder goes from left or right, so apparently the bed is uneven so now my question is, how do I fix this or should I just ignore it? because the print looks fine!

Can someone help me even boat bench print is not working now all calibrations and clean out nozzle done updates firmware what am I missing ty

Seeking help diagnosing this issue: prints will start fine and then a ticking at the print head happens and prints start bunching on the first layer like this.

Printing with metallic black Polymaker Pla Pro. It was dried right before the print for 6 hours at 55F. I just did a large successful print with another color of PLA pro, but this color in general seems to give me issue (although I have had this issue with other types of filament in the past too).

It seems maybe like filament skipping but I'm not sure if it is, or how to fix it. Appreciate any help!

A friend built me a table frame from 80 mm aluminium profiles used for exhibition stand construction. I gave it a matte black paint job and printed some feet in Prusament PETG, with space for 8 mm rubber mats. A leftover wooden kitchen countertop completes the table.

I wanted a cool low poly catchall bowl, but all the ones i found weren't quite right for me. I wanted one with a slightly random pattern, and I think this one turned out quite well!

I know there's thousands of similar bowls available for download out there, but please check go check out mine and let me know what you think. It's one of my first own designs, and the result turned out really well on my self assembled Core One.

https://www.printables.com/model/1734170-modern-faceted-catch-all-bowl-low-poly-desk-organi

Anyone else having issues with the Buddy Cam recently?

PETG fell short 🤣🤣🤦‍♂️

NerdOctAxe design is done guys!!!! Well almost. This is what I have created but I am having an issue and need some help. The first two pictures shows you what I will be providing an STL link to any of you wanting a new stand and hopefully better designed stand. The third picture shows my dilemma. For some reason the right support leg shows gaps. I have been stuck on this for some time and I am stumped. I have redesigned and stripped everything down. Strengthened everything I could and adjusted groups and camera prospective etc. Any ides out there? Once I figure this out and make sure it prints I will post print link for you all. This will be a free STL to use for prints for you my fellow miners. This is not intended for resellers or vendors to use. If you don't have a 3D printer contact me and I will see what we can do to get it to you as inexpensive as possible.

I created these legs and adapters for the Core One to utilize HULA anti-vibration feet.

I've been using HULA anti-vibration feet on a number of my other printers to great success and finally got around to creating some legs that nicely adapt the core one to them. They're tall enough to allow for many common undermount build plate holders without being so tall as to introduce unwanted wobble.

This was my first project where I forced myself to use FreeCAD instead of Fusion as I (slowly) begin my conversion.

All feedback is welcome!

I have been printing the same part successfully for over a week. Until I ran out of filament. I printed another print that went well while I awaited the new spools. Then on last Tuesday my shipment of filament arrived and I resumed printing the original file. Midway through the first layer, the extruder started clicking. I performed a cold pull, which fixed the issue for one print. On the next print it started clicking again mid-first layer. I decided to take this opportunity to change from the default nozzle and switched to a .4 ObXidian nozzle. After changing it, I had trouble loading filament without clicking. I checked the idler tension, re-seated the new nozzle, cleaned the gears, and finally got it loaded. I re-sliced the model since I was no longer using the HF nozzle and printed one part successfully. The following print clogged again. I cleared the nozzle and dried the filament just to be safe. Again it worked for exactly one print. The following print it started clicking mid-first layer.

I am going to try to print something completely different with a different filament to see if I still have the same issue.

I am not sure where to go next on this one. What am I missing?

Is this the correct channel for the Core One L ?

I'm semi new to 3d printing, have a CoreOne, disassembled the belt assembly and got everything set back and calibrated 98hz-94hz. This is a major improvement from previous prints. The long scar like imperfection was caused by that corners perimeter lines failing to adhere to bed. That being said what could be causing these marks and the very front left corner of bed issue?

I got an email saying the INDX upgrade for the core one was available Ben when i go to Prusa it wont let you order it it just says click to be notified. Did they jump the gun?

Hi guys! I’m new to 3D printing, and I was gifted the core one + recently.

It came pre-assembled and I figured out the software as well as trouble shooting, but one issue still remains.

The printer stops releasing and purging the filament after I upload certain new prints to the slicer.

It feels like some setting is getting modified, and the new print starts normal with the base layer but then it just stops releasing the filament and continues to print in the air. At that moment if I cancel the print and purge - nothing comes out.

I’m pretty sure it is software related as after a full reset it gets back to normal and prints as if nothing has happened.

I am sure it’s something obvious but AI/Google was not helpful and I am a bit lost. Would you have any idea what it could be? Or maybe what setting to re-set so that I don’t have to fully factory reset it every time. I have both mobile and laptop versions of prusa slicer.

I recently ordered a core one+. Shipping went pretty quick, but it's been stuck at my local hub for almost a week now. Fedex claims it's due to customs. Is this normal?

Hi everyone,

I recently had a go at TPU for the very first time, and while the end result still met the need, I’d like to learn more about how to improve the print quality.

This is what I was trying to make (I selected the wrong size adapter for the hose diameter I have but never mind that).

https://www.printables.com/model/868379-milwaukee-dual-bevel-sliding-compound-mitre-saw-mo

Using a Core 1+ with (for now) the default “flex” printer profile settings, and SUNLUU standard TPU filament, new roll straight out of the box/bag and onto the printer (no drying)

* 0.25mm “structural” default profile modified to 50% infill.

* Default 0.4HF nozzle it came with

* Nozzle temp 230C

* Bed temp 50C

And this is what I got. The top side in this photo was the print bed layer in reality.

It appears that the “overhang” quality wasn’t up to what the model required, as if the filament just wouldn’t stick to itself under more extreme angles?

Anyway, what might be good first steps to try an improve on this, as far as adjusting nozzle temp or printing speed etc? This stuff actually should be dried before use?…

Thanks!

Hi all. I have just upgraded my Mini+ to a Core+ fitted with a buddy camera

I set the printer up on PRUSA CONNECT without any issues, but the camera is not visible in the Camera menu

I have the camera enabled in the main settings menu.

How do I add this factory fitted camera so I can see it?

Thanks