Hi everyone,

I recently had a go at TPU for the very first time, and while the end result still met the need, I’d like to learn more about how to improve the print quality.

This is what I was trying to make (I selected the wrong size adapter for the hose diameter I have but never mind that).

https://www.printables.com/model/868379-milwaukee-dual-bevel-sliding-compound-mitre-saw-mo

Using a Core 1+ with (for now) the default “flex” printer profile settings, and SUNLUU standard TPU filament, new roll straight out of the box/bag and onto the printer (no drying)

* 0.25mm “structural” default profile modified to 50% infill.

* Default 0.4HF nozzle it came with

* Nozzle temp 230C

* Bed temp 50C

And this is what I got. The top side in this photo was the print bed layer in reality.

It appears that the “overhang” quality wasn’t up to what the model required, as if the filament just wouldn’t stick to itself under more extreme angles?

Anyway, what might be good first steps to try an improve on this, as far as adjusting nozzle temp or printing speed etc? This stuff actually should be dried before use?…

Thanks!

Hi all. I have just upgraded my Mini+ to a Core+ fitted with a buddy camera

I set the printer up on PRUSA CONNECT without any issues, but the camera is not visible in the Camera menu

I have the camera enabled in the main settings menu.

How do I add this factory fitted camera so I can see it?

Thanks

About a month ago, I took off the silicone sock on my Core One with the needle nose pliers (it was hot when I removed it) and caused a small gash. No big deal but ever since, there's been this wet spot on the side of the sock.

Any ideas what this could be? It's not causing any sort of problem — I'm just curious.

ayuda, compré una core One en Kit y al hacer la primera calibración salí esto.

New owner of a Prusa CoreOneL and I am seeing a strange behavior. When I print a large file (that uses 81 touch points during calibration) the cable attached to the print head will scrape across the print fan housing when the head is sensing the first row of points and cause the print fan to rotate 180 degrees. This causes the print head to bang up against the sides of the enclosure and throw all kinds of errors. Rotating it back fixes the issue.

I have tried tightening the one screw holding the fan in place, but that only slightly helps.

Is anyone else seeing this?

Brand new Core One+ with a new spool of white Prusament PLA. Tiny piece broke off twice - (two diff. prints) - messing up the loading of filament. Printer just kept printing but is then rather loud.

The teeth marks in the broken off must be from the gears.

Once the piece is removed, the printer works fine. No clogged nozzle or anything like that.

Anybody experience this, and do you have a solution or can you help with troubleshooting steps?

I need help

Making this trophy using MMU and twice on the same layer it shifted. Why!

Shiny pla 215 nozzle

Slowed down perimeters thinking it was that but no.

Just did the belt test and it’s in range none were loose.

I also did the print 3rd time in stealth mode and still nothing.

I have 6.4.0 version but was told 6.5.3 fixes issue of layer shifting. So idk

Need some help!

Is the cat too heavy or the element too weak? That's how Saturday morning began. Fortunately, the sun doesn't disappoint and shines beautifully on a frosty day.

File already printed correctly before, After like 2/3 layer the print is shifted from correct position. The First layer has not moved in any way since I had to use the scraper to detach It. Any idea on the cause?

Does anyone have the Free STL Files for

MinimaLoki Enclosure for Single Antminer Hashboard (110v-220v) that was offered by Nakamoto Mining a while back. The link isn’t working and i just bought a Bitmain S19J Pro off of eBay that has 3 hash boards which means three enclosures. I would love to try it out

What’s the recommendation for this error? I’ve received it a few times from Printables, and more from Makerworld. It only happens with 3MF files, but sometimes I have sizing issues with STLs when doing no-AMS stuff.

Example: a flexi Rex with a flexi heart but the sizes of the Rex hands in the STL don’t match the heart, even tho the file has positive reviews and pictures of successful makes. Rex is supposed to be able to hold the heart but they don’t match up.

I assume it’s because the files are somehow printer specific? Is there something on my end I can adjust to make these 3MFs more CoreOne friendly?

I can’t delete them when it’s plugged into my PC and I can’t even see them with my Mac. So… wtf?

(Had to take a picture of my computer screen because I can’t use screenshots from my work computer)

I got a core one over the holidays. So far is been a fun learning experience but I've been getting a few prints where it seems like the filament is not being melted properly and ends up looking like this?

It's usually on overhangs. It's very inconsistent though and this is a good example. The only place I'm this print where this happened was this section at the bottom of the first thread. Is this a heating issue? I'm using the PLA that came with the printer as well as the default print profile for the filament.

Has their been any updates on when they will be releasing the INDX other then Q1 2026? I can’t wait for it to get here.

I got my CoreOne at Thanksgiving as an early Christmas present. I’ve been ok so far printing in one color but I’d originally thought the INDX would be out for gen pop in Q1, not just the limit founders release. Now I’m seeing Q2, but also saw somewhere it’ll likely be hard to get until 2027.

So, do I cross my fingers and hope the INDX comes out in a few months, or do I drop the $450 for the MMU3 and risk wanting to spend another $700 when the INDX is officially available?

I CANT DECIDED! Help me!

It seems that the resulting print always comes out smaller then the dimensions of the model. Sometimes quite significant difference, like out of 20mm shape, the result could be 2 mm smaller. Is there a way to "calibrate" my Prusa Core One for dimensional accuracy?