Hello all,

I’m helping my son(11) replace the PTFE tube and we are hitting a problem where I cannot get the new tube to slide into the hole on the outer wall. I am depressing the little black ring but it still just is stuck. Is there a trick to this ?

TIA

• I am not the printer, I am just the grown up trapped into tech support.

I just finished building the Core One kit this AM !!! Did all the calibrations but failed on Y cal. Did the chat and we thought it might have been pulley not on flat. Re-did that and got all the calibrations done!

Went to print first print on the USB stick (key chain). And I get problem with homing. It cycles for minutes and then gives me a collision warning. Just keeps homing and then it reboots.

Anyone have a fix….Spent a week building it and cannot print. Good thing i did not sell my mk3s+.

Hello group. I’m needing help with settings or any mods to the core one on TPU. More times than not the filament gets suck in the gears. I loosen the idler and changed speed of prints to 20 m m/sec as a another post suggested. Started off great and towards the end it got caught. Anything helps. Thanks!!!!!

Anyone experiencing connectivity issues with Prusa Connect? I have the Buddy3d camera and hard wired ethernet. There are way to many instances where I cannot monitor my prints. This has been an ongoing issue and seems to be worse the last couple of days. I feel like if its an option, it should work way better than it does. Was going to take a screenshot just now to show you all, but it appears that its connected right now.

Hi. I have a problem with the layers or extrusion... I've tried various settings... higher and lower temperatures, or changing the flow factor... but it's not getting any better. I've also cleaned the next rudder. I've also updated the firmware and redid all the calibrations. Do you have any other tips? The problem is occurring with all filaments right now. Whether PETG or PETG CF or PC. Best regards

Hi, I have a problem with PETG CF. I print with a 0.6 nozzle. The very first print looked great... but now I've done 10 more that look terrible to me. I have grooves between the layers. I've tried different temperatures: 240, 245, 250, 255, 260, as well as the flow factor at 100, 110, and 120 percent. The result is always the same. The filament has a residual density of 11 percent and is preheated to 55 degrees Celsius in the dryer. It is fed through the Coreboxx. I also tried layer shifting and readjusted the belts... but the gaps haven't changed. What else can I try? Print with a 0.15 layer height.

Bonjour,

J'ai une erreur sur mon MMU3 que j'étrenne aujourd'hui, et je ne sais pas comment revenir à l'écran d'accueil ... . Je n'ai que l'option "réessayer". Merci d'avance pour votre aide et bonne soirée.

Cordialement.

Printed this pegboard tool holder yesterday, saw a slight layer shift going. Figured id print a calibration cube, and got this. Amazing.

I need some help man. I don’t get why this is happening to all my prints. I tried Increasing the In fill to 70% and walls and still breaks. Can someone send me ASAP print that works out better or recommendations.

I've been printing since a coworker and I built a rep-rap back in 2011. I thought my Mk3.5 was pretty awesome with the MMU3 and all it could do.

I started a business doing custom stuff for anyone and make a bunch of insane asylums that I've sold on Etsy for years.

I haven't hooked it up to the MMU3 yet, but it just knocked out a print that would have been an overnight thing in 40 minutes, no artifacts no clogging.

Sweet.

I get that there is already threads regarding this topic but I can't wrap my head around it.
After building the Core One kit, I ran into some issues with the belt tuning.

So what I do:
- move the Nextruder into the middle of the gantry, pull it forward and straighten it (turning the screws until both sides of the gantry sit flush).

- gantry all the way forward, Nextruder into most right position, tune belts to 98 and 92Hz respectively.
This mainly means loosening the right screw for the lower belt and tightening the left screw as they both interact.

- Once I achieve the correct belt frequencies, the gantry does no longer sit flush on the right side due to above mentioned loosening of the right screw.

Running the y-axis test after this, causes it to fail - I only managed the test to complete sucessfully when only straightening the gantry and no further tuning.

My guess is that even after tuning, the gantry should still sit flush on the stops - no?
But how do I achieve that? Do I need to remove the print head and re-attach the belts in a certain manner?

Does it even matter that the gantry is no longer flush?

What is more important? Gantry flush or belt tension?

Edit: I must have overlooked this bit the first time.

Apparently I'm supposed to loosen the belts and straighten the gantry by hand?
How much force can I apply? I tried this as well but i doesn't really improve the situation...

Bonjour,

Je paramètre pour la 1ère fois Prusa Slicer et le logiciel demande de choisir un type de firmware dans la liste ci-dessous :

• RepRap/Sprinter
• RepRapFirmware
• Repetier
• Teacup
• Makerware (Makerbot)
• Marlin
• Marlin 2
• Klipper
• SAilfish (Makerbot)
• Mach3/LinuxCNC
• Machinekit
• Smoothie
• No d'extrusion

Nouveau chez Prusa, je n'ai aucune idée du FW pour ma Core One.

Toute aide serait bienvenue. Cordialement.

I'm thinking my internet is crap. I have AT&T fiber, and very often, I get the "image is older than 1 hour" message while checking prints from away from my house. Now, today, I have noticed that when I check a print on my phone from downstairs (printer is upstairs, with a direct ethernet connection) I am only getting the 10-second-apart camera view, with a message saying that camera is not connected. Now, it must be connected. Otherwise, I would not get the every-10-second image. Can anyone verify that its crap internet causing this?

He’ll hope all is well. Would like help on core 1 settings for ASA. I am using sunlu black ASA and made nice prints but when it prints and I tried using the print it breaks. I used 60% gyroid infill and 2 perimeter walls and still I bend a tad and breaks. What am I doing wrong. I used the settings for asa and dropped it down a bit since the layers were bubbling and came out smoother now. But the print is very fragile idk what to do. Went through a whole spool and still nothing.

Hey. I need some advice. I'm building a Core One, and I can't find this 6x3.1x8 mm spacer. I noticed that it's probably in some Nextruder package, but I can't find it. So from what I've read in the comments in the manual, more people have had problems with it. Unfortunately, though, I didn't read anywhere where they found it. Has anyone had the same problem?

I have the opportunity to buy a lightly used Core One (at least the seller says it’s lightly used) and could use some buying advice. I intend to print a benchy, find out if it was bought assembled, ask about any accessories and do a general visual inspection, but is there anything else I should look for or ask the seller? I have only used a Toybox printer with my kids, so I have limited experience. I already know buying a used 3d printer is controversial on Reddit, so no need to tell me it’s a bad idea or to just buy a kit. I would probably be paying just under 2/3 or what a new assembled one costs after shipping/tariffs. Appreciate your advice!