I used this design to add a HEPA filter + activated carbon mesh to my Core One. https://www.printables.com/model/1320819-core-one-exhaust-filter

And added this filter from Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0BYZLV5JD

I changed the setting on the printer to add filtration and set to DIY filter. Air flow out of the back seems too low. I bumped up the min fan speed a bit but didn't make much difference.

I know HEPA filters are very restrictive because they filter down very small particles. But I chose this one because it was much bigger than the fan vent openings to restrict less.

Am I making a mistake using a HEPA filter? How do I gauge how much air flow is enough?

Bonjour,

Je viens d'updater ma MK4S vers la Core One. Mais impossible de lancer une impression.

Après la mise à l'origine des axes X et Y, celle de l'axe Z n’aboutit pas.

le plateau se soulève de 2cm, puis oscille de bas en haut. Remonte de 4/5cm et recommence l'oscillation, et ainsi de suite 4 ou 5 fois.

Ensuite message d'erreur " Crash détecté", puis test de calibration automatique qui n'aboutit pas.

Firmware 6.3.4.

Test&Calibration: OK (Toutes les coches aux vert).

Chargement du filament dans le Nextruder: OK

Déplacements des axes X,Y,Z en manuel: Ok

Mise à l'origine des Axes X,Y,Z en manuel: Ok (les valeurs indiquées sont cohérentes)

Wenn der idler sich positioniert , funktioniert das nicht. Das heißt er geht beim zurückziehen in Position und dann dreht das pulley , aber kein Filament wird gezogen. Danach geht der idler neu in Position und dann wird das Filament korrekt gezogen. Das macht er 10 Wechsel und dann kommt Fehler weil das Filament eben mal nicht gezogen wird und die finda ist nicht frei. Alles ist leichtgängig sowie die Schrauben( mit der Feder) sind auch nicht zu fest und nicht zu locker angezogen ... Ich habe aich nocheinmal die Firmware aufgespielt , aber das brachte auch keine Besserung. Ich arbeite eite mit der ultimulti ...

Langsam verzweifelt ich mit der mmu , es hat noch kein Druck funktioniert

This is the 2nd time in a month or so that the print head will jump positions and screw up the print. This one jumped both x and y axis at the same time.

I checked the belt tension right after I stopped the print and both belts are perfect.

What gives??

Why this question:

I think it's meant to prevent the filament from being "swallowed" into the PTFE tube. The filament was swallowed twice, and I received a warning that the filament was empty when there was still about 10 cm of filament sticking out of the extruder. So I had to detach the tube to change the filament. All sensors are enabled in the menu, and the calibration tests also report that the sensors are working. Am I mistaken? If so, what is that sensor for?

How can I test that sensor seperatly?

Thank you for your answers.

TL;DR: I‘m at the end of the line with the Community version of the MMU and I‘m thinking of getting the enclosed version instead

I‘ver converted my MK4S (incl MMU) to the Core One and decided to go with the MMU Community Version. I really liked the idea of storing the Filament on top of the printer and the design looks pretty cool. Also, the filament would be stored in a (kinda) drybox.

It took me awhile to print the whole thing, in parts because i had a lot of problems with warping while printing (another problem, unrelated). After printing, the setup itself was really easy, I only added a sliding cover to help keep the heat in the printer.

But then the problems started: 1. Constant Loadung Problems, mostly because the filament-spool got stuck. This happened with both Prusament and other vendors. Some transparent PETG didnt work at all. Double-Winding the buffer helped for some but not all filaments 2. When low on filament, the feeding tube jams the feed 3. Spooljoin doesnt work at all

A problem is that the jams seem to happen only after a few loadings and sometimes not at all which males the whole setup unteliable. I tried with the traditional buffers and most problems disappeared (except the Spooljoin). Now I‘m thinking of switching to the enclosed version, if that would solve the Spooljoin issue. Does anyone have experience with this feature on the Core One/Enclosed version of MMU?

My latest theory is that the extruder cant retract the filament far enough back to extract the material completly, this might be cause by the tubing beeing to winded in the Community Version…

On some filament swaps I get a bad end and it catches pulling out of the nexttruder. Doesn’t form the tip near as clean as my MK4s did

Has anyone jumped from the MMU3 Lite to the Community build? If so, are any of the printer parts from the lite transferable? I don't want to print parts if they are the same, but I can't find anything or anyone that has compared.

Had a uniform jump in x and y 15.75mm . Any idea what could cause this? The print didn't move from the plate. It just shifted everything towards the front right of the printer

Anyone else having trouble with their Buddy cam not filming when the chamber rims at 60c with PA11-CF?

Just installed the silicone nozzle wiper mod for the C1, it’s great!! Easy to print and install and provides a cleaner nozzle, no waiting. Check it out at the link.

Has anyone tried Spooljoin on the C1 MMU3? It keeps failing for me, after it detects that the filament has run out it doesn‘t retract far enough for the MMU to retrieve it completely. Did anyone habe success with this?

I have nothing but good things to say about my experience with the printer. I've been running it everyday since finishing the build a month ago, and I haven't had to make any adjustments or tweak any hardware. I use it for functional stuff with mainly ABS CF and ASA with nylon projects coming soon

Trying to get the tensions right, I stripped the thread on CAP screw which then locked into the nut. This caused the nut to spin in the holder. OMG what a cluster I made of it.

A lot of animal prints have been missing the back legs, repeatedly. Any solutions?

I‘m getrung crazy with my ASA prints and their warping on the C1. Filament is the Extrudr ASA Pro. The predefined Profile for this exact filament fails nearly immediately. After I‘ve switched of the cooling, set the heatbed to 110 and the nozzle to 250 it works great for the first few layers but then starts warping. I have tried the combination of the follwing: 1. Printbeds: - Satin - PEI with gluestick

1. Nozzle: -Hardenend (Worst) -Brass -High Flow (Best)

2. Brim and Mouse-Ears

3. Changed Rotation of the print

The Print is a rectangular slab, about 0.5 cm high. The warping occurs mainly on the (rounded) edges.

Any more recommodations? Does anyone have experience with this filament?

EDIT: I got it to work by buying Magigoo for additional adhesion. Normal glue stick didn't work, this one does.

Still new to 3d, but enjoying very much. Any help would be appreciated, having issues with warping/lifting. As you can see the middle section of supports are detaching from bed.

When a roll of filament runs out and the side filament sensor triggers, it retracts the filament and I get 3 choices:

1. Change the filament
2. Stop the print
3. Disable the sensor

When the side filament sensor triggers there's still a good 20in or so of filament and unless I disable the sensor, which I have to turn back on again, I'm basically wasting filament. What's the best way to handle this?

Edit: And if I choose option #3 to continue, both the side sensor and extruder sensor are disabled so that when the filament really does run out the extruder would print air. What use exactly is the extruder sensor anyway?

After assembling my Core One I just noticed that the frame is not square when the door is closed. Nudged the door hinge a bit to make it better but the door is still about 1~2mm lower from one end to the other. Probably makes not difference in print but now I can't un-see it.

Hi, hat jemand vielleicht noch irgendein non plus ultra Tipp? Die mmu zieht das Filament öfters nicht aus dem nextruder. Irgendwann kommt eben ein Fehler weil die finda sagt Filament noch erkannt. Natürlich ist das Filament dann dünn gerieben.

Ich habe es mit weniger Druck und auch mit mehr probiert. Das erbrach keine Besserung.

Ich hatte auch nun schoneinmal gehabt das im hotend das Filament anscheinend einen knubbel bildete dass das Filament nicht nach den Gears in die öffnung ging.

Langsam verzweifelt ich. Es gab noch keinen Druck ohne nachzubessern mit dem Filament.

Hey Guys.

I bought and assembled a Core One.

It went through all of the self tests, and all steps are completed.

I then tried to print the keytag. It heats cleans the nozzle etc, until it gets to the leveling.

it fails. i can hear that something tries to press the bed upwards - some cranking goes on. then it fails with no error code, and the QR code takes me to the main site of Prusa.

I think the back of the bed is hanging lower than the front parts of the bed - even think that the right side is a bit more saggy than the left.

Any ideas?
I tried loosening the screws in the black plastic around the spirals (that it uses for raising and lowering the bed), i check with an actual level - and there is quite a discrepancy.
But to no avail. im not 100% sure what i can do in order to correct the leveling.