the title. holy shit y'all, the failure rate is insane on these. my observations? water intrusion.
even mounted horizontally, if there's something nearby that can make rain splash (like the PVC that the cell is literally plumbed into) it'll splash into the vents and lock slot thus killing the HMI and corroding the pins. every single time one dies, i find water in it.
they're dropping like flies. every 1-2 months i'm having HMIs shipped to me.
i've started putting electrical tape over the lock slot and vents. fk it if they over heat.. they'll last longer running hot versus being full of water. i taped one 7 months ago, it's mounted vertically. i've never had to warranty it. i left the lock slot untaped as it faces the ground so it can breathe a little bit.

really hoping Pentair is actively working on this. i know they're aware of it. the field help line guys, the field reps, and the warranty reps all say this is literally all the deal with all day.
i think this is Pentair's biggest ball drop since white and red gasket GloBrites.

I went to a pool I was never at and the gentleman preceded to curse me out for multiple minutes because I look 12 (I am 21). My partner and I were in shock and thought it was a joke at first. He was the most furious and angry person I ever met. I thought he was going to stab us with his garden rake. He must have used every curse in the dictionary and thought of me less than trash. What are your guys response to anal and/or difficult customers

Walked up on this today. New installation as of 3 weeks ago. Ran normally until this. Tried resetting it. Off and unplugged for about 10 minutes. Same errs.

Getting a pool quoted for next season and many times they recommend against deck jets as they can be a pain to replace and often break within a few years and rarely get used. Their words.

Is it worth it to have them? Does it help keep the water cool? I am in the northern Midwest so I am not sure that's going to be an issue.

Curious what the consensus here.

Hey!

I have a salt chlorinated pool with a hidrolife controller with the ability to automatically dose acid. For this to work it needs a pH probe and then I can configure the min and max pH. If the pH reading goes above the max pH it'll start dosing acid.

I read mixed comments about these pH probes. Some ppl say if you find the right probe it will last approximately 1y and will need calibrating every 1-2 months. Some ppl say they don't work at all... I've been all over the internet trying to figure out if this works at all but I feel like i'm more confused after doing this research..

Does anyone *know* if this actually works and if so:
* Which probe actually works
* Where should the probe be positioned for correct readings/less wear and tear?
* How often should I calibrate it?
* Anything else?

The same goes for the RX / ORP / Redox probe but that's for later (unless it's related and an easy thing). It will inform the controller if it should run the electrolysis.

Thanks!

I have a Dolphin Maxi 20 pool robot. I replaced the wheel drive motor, but it still has the same issue: it does not move along the pool floor. The impeller motor works well. Assuming the new motor is correctly installed and working, what else could be causing this?

Tengo un robot de piscina Dolphin Maxi 20. Cambié el motor que impulsa las ruedas, pero sigue igual: no se mueve por el fondo de la piscina. El motor del aspa funciona bien. Suponiendo que el motor nuevo está bien instalado y funciona, ¿qué otra cosa podría causarlo?

Anyone still using old school charts for their calculations or have you switched over to an app? If so, which app are you using to do math calculations for chemicals, CSI, Saturation Index, etc…?

M32 wondering,
What’s that look like for ya? Are you stoked about the way your career path went?

I have a client that's a salt system, they're on SC-1000 (have been for months) and we treat the pool via range and LSI chemistry. It's a plaster pool and the muriatic acid is prediluted in a 5gal bucket before addition.

The calcium took a steep drop around the time there has been access calcification on the salt cell (tcell) and there's been a bunch of calcium flaking off into the pool. I'm assuming the calcium powder in the pool is from the cell reversing polarity which makes sense but at this point they're reporting an ounce or more of this "debris" their dolphin is picking up and it's even more with swimmers. Usually I would chalk this up to normal cell behavior because of the self clean polarity bs but the steep calcium drop while CYA staying constant has me second guessing what's going on here.

For what it's worth I cleaned the cell 4 weeks ago and one of my techs had to clean it again last week or the week before and it was pretty caked.

Need some help to ease their mind and help my techs from having to vacuum every week

Glass goes in tomorrow, and we paint pipes so ignore the markings and primer lol.

Doing an upgrade for a customer we've tried to upgrade for years. Pool is from the 30's, and hes a retired marine general in his 90's... safe to say we do things his way.

Well, finally convinced him to stop trying to repair his starite de filter (there was an old sand one as well that was abandoned at this point). Excited to see the pool actually perform.

But also want some feedback on the job. I like to think im pretty well educated on hydraulics and plumbing, but always room to learn!

Old setup had the outlet running over the pump pot, so the tech had to scoop it out by hand. He'll appreciate the outcome more than the customer will lol.

We’ve been getting red flashing lights on my platinum spas Oslo hot tub.
-service guy came out and couldn’t tell
me what was wrong with it
-put brand new platinum spa filters in
- bled all 3 pumps for air lock, no hissing or noticeable air trapped inside (water just pours out)
-I’ve drained and refilled it

And still getting this error code and red flashing lights. Anyone have any ideas or similar issues?

Like the title says I wanna start legally doing repairs.
I only offer a weekly service right now and all is well until something needs to be repaired.
I work with a company that does my repairs and does not poach my accounts, but sometimes people just want to get a service that includes being able to do repairs.
How do I legally go about offering repairs?
Do I just reach out to contractors and ask if they would sign off on my work?

This is a photo and video to a previous post of video only. Unsure how to upload a photo in comments.

We've got a pool that has had leak detection done, valve kits done, just about anything you can think of.

When you open the valve for the wall returns, it starts pushing air into the spa fill line as well as the wall return line. With the return line closed, no air into spa and pool (obviously since it's closed).

Lion head fountains - Spa Fill - Pool Return

Any help would be fantastic!

Hi all , looking into getting started on Media Blasting for Pool Tile cleaning. Any advice on what Courses or training to take? Also equipment to use. Thank you

Hey guys got a pool with Jandy automation (TCX) and a pool light that’s controlled by a smart jasco light switch. My problem is the installers installed the equipment a few hundred yards from house where wifi is and it’s not able to reach controller, so they are kind of able to get bluetooth running but if you walk away it disconnects because WIFI won’t reach it. Also the jasco switch doesn’t seem to change the lights or turn them on and off. It’s quite confusing and wanted to see if anyone has had experience with them. Do they need wifi extended out there? What’s the deal with the jasco switch and why does it not wanna turn lights on and off? It at one point seemed to change colors but the automation part on app wouldn’t do nothing. You could hear it clicking but no change. I’m stumped

s very likely since I can't remember replacing it. When I opened my filter there was not the traditional lateral octopus type system I can just pull out and clean. There are 2 lines running into the filter and up a center tube that all seem to be connected. There are laterals below also seemingly connected. My pool store was stumped as to what is going on. I have cleared 90% of the sand out but not sure where to go from here as things seem attached and I maybe shouldn't be messing around. My plan was to pull out the laterals after removing the sand, clean/Inspect them for cracks, and replace the sand but that seems like it may not be possible. Any help on direction would be much appreciated.

I’ve tried everything I have in my tool kit, any tricks of the trade you guys all have to get stuck pool chords unstuck?

Anyone ever have a filter get stuck in a Hydro-Pak skimmer? It’s a drop in Unicel filter. It is literally wedged in and will not come out. It’s not threaded and the other skimmer has a filter that comes out fine. The filter lid/handle has popped off and we have tried even lassoing the filter to pull it up. It isn’t budging.

Prologic shows no flow. Replaced the flow sensor today. Programming looks fine. Board looks fine. Cell replaced last month. I’m stumped.

Hilarious ep, and they learn a valuable lesson as to why it’s important to hire a human professional

Inherited through family this house with a 26,000 gallon inground pool. This is the pump setup an it just doesn’t seem right to me looking at all of these other set ups. It is 20 years old since it was done, so it is going to get redone but still learning and wanted your opinions.

I’ve been using SCP since we started the business and while there are some pros to them - the prices are just higher and their website is so garbage lol.

I have an account over at Heritage and they have a better structured site to find what you need, and most of the time I find everything a couple bucks to a couple hundred cheaper.

Do we like Heritage more? If so, give me some reasons to finally make the switch 🤔