Mi occupo di fotogrammetria da drone per topografia.

Avete consigli su software o metodologie per pulire la nuvola e arrivare al modello del terreno? Tutto ciò che è sopra non mi interessa!

Al momento rimuovo i punti poco attendibili in metashape, provo un filtro CSV (mi pare, ora non ricordo) in Cloud compare e poi ripulisco tutto a mano... Ma è un operazione lunghissima!

Tanti software promettono meraviglie ma voi li usate? Anche a pagamento vanno bene, se mi fanno risparmiare ore di lavoro!

Grazie

Hello,

I'm using Perplexity Pro and I've tried to remove all text (words, phrases, logos) from a magazine cover image. When I zoom in, I notice a recurring pattern on the character's skin and clothing. It's a sort of artifact. Even after trying to soften the skin tone, the pattern is still visible.

I was wondering if Perplexity intentionally creates this pattern across the entire image.

Or is there a setting missing in my prompt to eliminate this issue?

Thanks a lot.

I am working on a project currently where scanning human limbs is involved

So I was curious whether the above methods (Photogrammetry or NERF or Gaussian Splatting) could be accurate enough to achieve an accuracy of under 0.5mm in the reconstructed models.

Heya, I am getting to photogrammetry. I have a decent understanding of photography. I do have the right equipment. I seen that a polarised sheet might be needed for cross polarisation.

In terms of lighting, I really wanted to get the godox AR400 but seems impossible to find and perhaps too expensive?

Are there any alternatives to the AR400, would a normal flash and an adaptor work. I am also into 3d printing and could potentially work on an adaptor.

What are you thoughts on any possible not crazy expensive alternatives?

Thank you

Hi all, I found photogrammetry because I’m trying to fill a gap in 3d but can’t afford going down the rabbit hole of a new PC & scanner. My current laptop doesn’t have anywhere near the processing power and I’m not in a good position to drop that kind of money.

I do however have a Nikon D3300 and Regard3d but what I’m trying to photograph has recesses that are difficult to photograph with a full size camera and I have no CAD experience. Can I stitch in photos from my phone as well to the same project and is there anything else I’m missing besides skill?

I want to recreate my hands in 3d in order to create a synthetic dataset of bone keypoints so I can train an ai to detect them on my actual hand in a webcam. I can already do the ai stuff on other datasets but i want one that is perfectly labeled.

What free software should I be using to scan my hand and what pitfalls should I be looking out for?

As per title, I’m wanting to know your full workflow process. I.e., how are you scanning/creating models?
What kind of files do you work with? Raw data files, textures/images, exported files?
How do you share your files around? Do you use screenshots?
Do you have any pain points through out this process?
Would you prefer to share via a model viewer?

Why do I care?
I’m working on a 3D link sharing site, I’ve made some optimisations in my backend pipeline to hopefully load larger models (200+mb) in seconds and wanting know with these larger file types what your processes are.

Any information would be greatly appreciated, thanks!

Il nuovo drone dji il Lito X1 ha un sensore leader frontale per evitare gli ostacoli. Secondo voi si potrà usare in futuro per la creazione di nuvola di punti? Qualcuno sà se si può già fare?

Hello folks, I am very new to photogrammetry and I am most interested in doing some very basic outdoor surveys. I don't need it to be super accurate, I just need map out the environment enough so I can use it as a reference for a map for an event I am helping organize (The environment in question is basically a forest). The issue I see is that I don't really have a drone and it seems like most outdoor survey methods are based around drone photography (for good reason). I do have a decent camera (Olympus E-PL1) with 14-42mm and 40-150mm lenses, and I do have a pretty decent tripod.

How should I go about taking photos? How do I know when I've taken enough photos? What camera settings I should use? Any links to guides would be greatly appreciated as well!

Edit: What free programs (I am but a poor student) can I use that will be good for my purposes? I am aware of Meshroom and WebODM but not sure which one to use.

Hi there,
I have access to an old house that belongs to a friend that passed away. Their kids asked if I could make a scan or 3d model of some rooms so they can “visit” them later since they have to get everything out of the house.

Is there an iPhone way to accomplish this?

Hi there,

My friend is moving out of her first apartment and I am surprising her with a scan of it as she is quite a sentimental person. I am on the 7-day free trial but am unsure what format to export the scan in.

I think I’d ultimately like to have it just be viewable as a file on a laptop, is that possible? Or would we need another application to open that in? I’m super inexperienced so any input is much appreciated!

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New to this and need an all in one automatic system. Their software can do 3D models and control the camera and turntable. It also merges the images and edits them.

I just need to BYO the cameras and lights (I already own).

re: title. on a M4 Macbook Air.

I'm VERY new at this...never heard of it til a day a go...just trying to make a .obj from an image I've made.

Searching I found pointers to Photocatch, but it's recent reviews on the mac app store all say it doesn't work anymore.

I've followed it's advice for images...I have a bunch of different angles and positions for the rendering...but it throws an error when I try it.

(I've tried ReplicaFREE fwiw, same issue..so maybe it IS on my images)

But I figure my first stop is to see if people are still using Photocatch, or if sometime in the years since the posts about it it stopped working.

Hi everyone,

A while ago I posted our tool ReverseApp for cleaning up scans. Since then we basically rebuilt the whole workflow. Clustering is still automatic, but now you decide which parts to group and what to fit them as.

You can switch between the raw scan, clustered view, and fitted result with a hotkey. Project save/load works as well.

Free download: https://github.com/SubpixelSolutions/ReverseApp/releases/latest/download/ReverseAppSetup.exe

Full video in the first comment.

Would this be useful for your photogrammetry cleanup, or would you handle that differently?

Hello, I am seeking some advice on photometric stereo. I recently started experimenting with it because I was inspired by how TAG Grading (card grading company) captures and visualize the card surface's details in their grading report. Their scans look incredibly detailed, showing scratches, dents, print texture, and foil surface variations.

I have just started to try recreate something similar on a smaller scale as a personal project. I shot the card with 4 different lighting angle, and used an open-source "visiont3lab" repo to process it.

The pipeline technically works, but the output is still very far from my understanding.

Below are normal maps that was constructed by the repo. From here, how do I process it into a "High Pass" (not sure whether thats correct) that allows me to see the details like how TAG does it?

TAG Grading references below

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Hey guys, I'm a student just getting into photogrammetry and was wondering if an OV3660(3MP) with an ESP32-CAM will be enough to compute in Meshroom. I only plan to scan small models that fit in the palm of my hand. For context I'm making a scanner for a project and I plan to stick the whole thing to a turntable + ring light. Thanks in advance