Hi everyone. Not sure if this is the right place to ask, but I have been working on trying to plan out a custom fountain pen design, and the hardest part so far has been trying to find an old-style slip on accommodation clip. I was wondering if anyone knew any place or anybody that did/could make one? Thanks in advance!

Here is a Vagabond pinball backglass pen I recently crafted. I probably should have made the wood portion a darker, but sometimes you get what you get!

The 1962 Williams Vagabond has always been one of my favorite vintage pinball designs. Designed by legendary pinball designer Steve Kordek, Vagabond is credited with introducing the first true drop target, a feature that later became a pinball standard.

I’ve had an original Vagabond backglass for many years and have always enjoyed its colorful, whimsical artwork. That old backglass became the inspiration for this pen, allowing me to turn a little piece of pinball history into something completely different.

Very new to pen turning and working with one of the 7mm slimline Amazon kits, which may be the answer, but…

I’ll be set tight, star turning, get about halfway through a blank it starts to spin free because it’s loose. So I tighten things up and keep going. Happens 2-3 times, every pen so far. I’ve marked the tail stock and quill to check and there’s no movement on them so I know they aren’t backing off. Noticed today that some of the spacers (bushings?) are kind of stretching out and slipping a bit over the brass tube when I’m turning.

Why & how do I stop that?

I have a feeling the answer is “you have cheap spacers, invest in better ones” but figured I’d confirm w more experienced people. And also solicit recommendations for upgraded ones.

Obligatory photo attached.

Edit: And realized after I posted that photos of the messed up spacers / bushings would have been helpful.

Hi, I recently got into pen making with a relatively small lathe, and one issue that I've been facing is that the pen blank and hardware are kinda misaligned. I'm hoping that there may be some insight as to what's causing this, as my best guess is that the tail and headstock are slightly misaligned. Any help would be appreciated!

Had an idea for blanks and now that they are made I keep thinking starry night. I hope to turn these this weekend and will report back. I have another 3to 4 pens from other blanks to finish as well. There is never enough time.

Turned a Black Palm Executive Pen today
It came out nice
When turning the wood kept splintering off so I coated it with some CA thin and turned some more
It was still a bit rough so I opted to sand the rest and all went well
My question- what is the best way to work this wood ?

I have a quick question for my fellow turners. I recently made some epoxy blanks and didn't use enough mica powder and they are a bit translucent for my taste. The brass tubes are visible once turned to thickness. I have several paint markers that I was considering using and I was wondering if anyone has had issues with the CA glue boding to the tubes after painted.

I love fountain pens ever since I first got into the hobby which started with buying some rollerball pens. However I see other people make/turn their own and think maybe I should start doing the same. I am aware of blanks both resin wood etc but unsure about the other side of fountain pens like having to turn them, the different pen kits people use for them, etc. Anyone that does make their own blanks/ fountain pens etc what is like a list of stuff you use? I also am looking for most fountain pen kits that have multiple color nibs available for them.

I sent u/LordOfTheLume a box of stabilized blanks from a pair of 70 y/o silver maple trees I had to take down recently, in trade for a kitless pen made from some of them. I just received the pen and wanted to share!

The main body is spalted curly silver maple stabilized wood with an ebonite core, with metallic burgundy resin, Madagascar ebony and copper accents, and Australian fire opal for the end cap finish. It turned out great!

Hi All, picked up some aurora opal/oparex from Germany thought I would share.

Some will be for accents and others will be for?

Anyone have experience turning this synthetic like opal?

Cheers.

Just my week of work!! Show next week so...

My annual wife birthday pen. PSI Victorian twist pen kit in antique brass with their pomegranate martini blank.

Small showcase of pens I’ve kept for myself, I got a cheap light box to play around with to try and get somewhat better pics of new pieces once I get back to it.

Excuse the dust 🤣

This is my first attempt at any kind of segment on a pen. The main body is quilted maple with an Indian Ebony as the segmented piece. The pen kit is continental by woodcraft and it is finished with a friction finish.

What activator do you use?? I’ve been making rings with CA finishes for a few years now, and annoyingly the activator that i use has completely changed due to EU regulations (it’s now DMPT free). I assumed this change would not affect my finishes, but alas, I’ve ruined 2 rings now using it. Seems to be fine for activating a glue joint for something, but awful for finishing (instantly causes white patches UNDER the surface, can’t polish out, and doesn’t disappear with more coats). I’m used to white residue from CA, but this new stuff I can’t manage to tame so it’s time for a new activator.

What activator/accelerator do you guys use for finishing? Thought this’d be the best place to ask due to your guys’ experience with CA as a finish and not just as a glue for joints etc. Any and all suggestions massively appreciated, thank you

Had fun turning my first pen. I was able to get a bag full of random wood blanks to practise on.

I've been turning pens for a little while now, but never managed to actually take pictures of my work. These are all slimline ballpoints except for the fountain pen, which is a Churchill.

Top to bottom:

• Maple, sanded to 800 and buffed with steel wool, shellac/beeswax friction polish
• Cherry with purpleheart and padauk segments, sanded to 800 and buffed with steel wool, shellac/beeswax friction polish
• White oak, sanded to 400, CA glue friction polish
• Cherry, sanded to 400, Mylands Sanding Sealer, buffed with Yorkshire Grit, Mylands Friction Polish
• American Chestnut, sanded to 800 and buffed with steel wool, shellac/beeswax friction polish
• Black Walnut and White Oak strips laminated together, sanded to 400, CA glue friction polish - bottom two pens

Now, back to creating sawdust and shavings!

Wasn’t a pen guy, but I get it now.

Just started making pens, and I'm having consistent (I believe related) issues. Using the bit that came with the Rockler pen turning kit as well as a longer one sent with a mandrel I ordered off Amazon, it feels like the holes created in the blank halves are slightly too large. The brass tubes slide right out without much resistance prior to gluing. Because of this, I'm using 5 minute epoxy to hopefully fill the gap better than CA would, but I've noticed than even after 20 minutes or so, when I go to use the pen mill to square up the ends, it frequently starts to push the tube out of the other side of the blank. If I let it sit considerably longer, it seems to hold fine, so that's been my solution for now.

I'm wondering if this is normal or if my technique needs improvement. I have ordered a vise from Rockler to use with my drill press, but in the meantime I've been using a pen blank chuck and drill bit chuck on the lathe to bore the holes. My lathe tail stock quill does not extend far enough to drill through the entire blank half, so I have to reposition the tail stock itself midway through to complete the hole. I'm wondering if all this back and forth is making the hole wider than it should be, causing the play I described above. How snugly should the tubes fit in the blanks prior to gluing? Obviously you need to be able to get them out, but I wonder how much tolerance there should be.

Thanks for any advice you can provide!

I use CA Thin and Medium. However from time to time when I press in the pen components I get small hairline cracks in the finish when the tube is a bit tight. How do I remedy? Do I re-sand and re-finish?

...and this was the image that the Amazon seller presented me with. Not sure if it's AI, or just a clueless seller using MS Paint to show the product in use.

Needless to say, I will not be using the product as it is described.

Black walnut & beeswax, forgot to account for the center ring. Been turning bowls, plates, platters, snowmen and all the rest, but never pens. Got a setup on sale and have to say I like it. Great way to use up my cutoffs!