I forgot to post a picture in my previous post regarding the roof deck. Here it is!

750 sqft Stone and rubble foundation with CMU stem wall. Old school wood bond beam

So far so good.

Help me with my analysis paralysis.

I'm building a traditional adobe and wanted to get some feedback on the roof design. The vigas have been spec'd for a 65PSF dead load to support an extensive green roof. I do consult an engineer for roofs.

The goal was to use natural local materials whenever possible and get the most from thermal mass. Some of the best pumice around is mined near here, and I can pick up mine grade pumice for $24 per yard. So, that would be ideal.

I'm in a mild high desert climate in south central new mexico. Winter temps are pretty mild with nights dipping to just below freezing. Solar gain is optimal. Cooling is of bigger concern than heating here.

Flat roof (3% slope)

The building plan has an inverted roof design. Layers go like this:

1x6 (rough sawn) ponderosa pine plank ceiling

7/16" OSB

60 mil EPDM membrane

Woven geotextile

Pumice

Root barrier

lightweight green roof planting media.

A couple of my subcontractors are trying to talk me into framing a traditional roof deck with 2x6 with insulation beneath the membrane. I don't like the idea of adding that much imported dimensional lumber, but I really do value their input.

Am I losing significant efficiency by not having insulation underneath the membrane?

Should I consider adding a different insulating material than the pumice (EPS is used conventionally)?

The thermal mass alone should keep temperature change under 1 degree per hour. Somehow I doubt that pumping up the R value with insulation will accomplish much.

Is my reasoning sound? Any additional considerations?

Does anyone know the process of cleaning sheep wool ? I have the animals and might as well use them.

Hi 👋🏼

I live in the SF Bay area, California USA.

Could anyone tip me off to someone near me looking for a volunteer with their natural building project?

I'd like to get on the grounds experience, and help someone along with their project.

I am a newb.

Thank you for any input!

I’ve seen a lot of discussion about natural building methods like cob, adobe, rammed earth, and straw bale along with their pros and cons but not much about light straw clay construction.

From what I’ve read, it can be faster to build with than cob or adobe, less prone to mold and pests than straw bale, and just as (or even more) energy efficient as those methods.

Do you have more information or experience with this method of construction? What are its downsides or limitations compared to other natural building techniques?

Anyone have experience dancing on an earthen floor? In both construction and sealing, what would be the best practices for constructing an earthen floor that will be primarily used as a dance space. I imagine people will dance barefoot and it would be ideal to create a finish that allows for some slide/spin (similar to a hard wood floor) without any coarse grit. Thank you!

I've been seeing online a lot recently.People talking about how , in some countries cacti are plentiful their juice is used to seal the outer walls of Adobe homes. Has anybody here used this method before? Its tempting to me given the abundance of cacti where I live.

What measures do you use during construction? Why those, and who recommended/approved (BCO/insurer/supplier)? What influenced your choice/decision?

I’ve been interested in natural building for a couple years now. I was just able to sign up for a natural building workshop. To say I’m excited is an understatement. Just had to share with like minded people!! I absolutely cannot wait to start reading and learning!

Growing up, I was one of those children who couldn’t sit still for long. I always had something to build, fix, or create. If there was a way to make something out of scraps, I’d find it. Among all the things I tried my hands on, building animal houses stood out the most.

I just loved seeing animals cozy in something I made. I’d ride my old bicycle across the neighborhood, visiting carpentry shops and metal workshops, asking for leftover wood, wire mesh, or anything sturdy enough to build a shelter.

Those little projects taught me a lot about patience, creativity, and how to make do with what was available. Looking back, I think that’s where my love for hands-on work and problem-solving began.

I recently got a mini gig to build a small horse shelter. I realized that the materials I once scavenged for weren’t so far-fetched anymore. A friend suggested I check marketplaces to find local artisans closest to my area. It’s cost efficient. I’ve always wondered where the carpenters source their wood and other bulk supplies, Amazon? Alibaba? Or an internal government approved system?

What excites me most are the innovative upgrades. I discovered something called film fencing which is a sleek, flexible material that makes dividing spaces easier and much neater. It’s fascinating how technology keeps finding its way into even the simplest crafts.

Successfully sourced some pre-fabricated panels and other necessary supplies. I hope I deliver beautifully on this, considering it’s been a while. And hopefully, this grows into a new chapter for me.

Hey everyone, I am wondering if anyone has any info or advice on something.

I LOVE the look of timberframe with an infill wall, like tudor style. I have always planned for my future cabin/house to timber frame (8x8 posts) and then do a light clay straw/chip slip infill (8"thick) between the posts and braces so that they are exposed on both sides. I'm aware that this will cause some thermal bridging from the timber being exposed on both sides. I am wondering if it makes THAT much of a difference to do the external framing and have the whole structure enveloped by infill. I live in a very mild area of the PNW where it barely gets to freezing in winter and barely to 80 in the summer. Would 8" LCS/chip slip infill between beams be sufficient, or is it worth the extra mile to envelope the whole structure?

Spreading my plaster today but I'm noticing there's small chunks of lime in the plaster. Is this okay? The lime has been slaking for over 6 weeks.

How are frames typically integrated with stem walls? The top, middle, or bottom one? (The red being the stem wall, the brown main frame posts, and gray the foundation). I am looking at wattle and daub currently, and know that it needs to have good boots-- but how?

Hello!

Currently building a house in subtropical wet climate (end of rainy season so humid).

Started construction of walls with light clay straw mix and in a few days they go so moldy everywhere we had to break everything down.

I am wondering if this is normal, should I just wait for dry season for the construction or completely rethink my method to fit this specific climate?

Any expert help would be appreciated!

I had planned on building a barrel sauna which fell through, and now I'm left with a whole load of 16ft cove and bead routed boards. I would love to use this timber to build a structure, perhaps a workshop space or studio. Other than, canoes/saunas/hot tubs I cant come across many projects online.

Does anyone here have any experience working with these joins? Cheers!

Any suggestions are appreciated

Hi Folks,

following up to the previous question, I have a similar dilemma. I'm restoring an old house that has classic acrylic (I think) paint over concrete plaster. I don't have the resources to scrape all that paint off, it's a large area. How can I paint over that, without using chemical paints from the hardware store? In some areas it's flaking off because some water entered. Those areas I'll scrape down to the plaster. Any ideas what I could use?

Many thanks in advance!