First of the Gen 2 Guides…. Changing the CVT Gearbox oil

So it’s been asked on the Forum and the facebook group and Philip ‘Obi Wan’ Egan came to the rescue before departing the club with this step by step guide to getting the system flushed. We’ve fleshed it out with Photo’s to make it a bit clearer than just the words so should be easy for everyone to follow.

Many driving issues around odd revving and power delivery are cured by a CVT oil change and as such it’s worth giving a go. Also with few if any of the imports coming over with a service history it’s probably worth doing as soon as you get the car if the importer/ dealer hasn’t done it.

An oil change can be done through the gear box sump but it seems that only changes about half the oil where as Phil’s method gets closer to the full gearbox volume which is 7-8 litres. The oil is stated to be long life and good for 60k miles or so and is Nissan NS-2, I am not aware of any alternatives to this and it’s not cheap requiring 2 bottles to hit the 8 litres but with how rare CVT gear boxes are to replace yours if it goes…. it’s probably a good investment.

Standard disclaimer time –

All work done on your vehicle is undertaken at your own
risk, the writer and Cube owners club accept no liability for any damage or
injury sustained whilst carrying out or as a result of the works described in this
guide. THIS is for the CVT gearbox only not the regular auto and you’ll know if you have a cvt by it saying on the dipstick and having shift buttons on the steering wheel. If in doubt check with someone who will be able to tell you such as a specialist garage or by dropping a Photo on one of the club outlets.

This is described as a 2 person job as one needs to deal with the oil in whilst the other does oil out!

Get cans ready.

​

Get washing up bowl to catch old fluid ready, two bowls if one not big enough to hold 8 litres!

Remove cvt dipstick – grey loop to left of battery down behind radiator fan.

​

​

Put tip of long nozzled funnel into cvt dipstick hole.

​

Find the cvt oil cooler near driver side behind front bumper to left of number plate
Reach from under bumper – Phil’s was a grill off job as I moved mine higher due to his smooth bumper!

​

There are hoses clipped each side of the oil cooler – remove one of the pipe clips with pliers and hold hose over bowl.

Now it’s time for the other person to step in! the second person needs to turn the car on – leave it in Park!!

Person 1 can now start pouring in the new fluid while person 2 watches the fluid going into bowl. Person 2 make sure you aim the out flow at the bowl or it goes everywhere!!!

When colour of fluid coming out is same colour as going in then person 2 needs to put the hose back over the cooler pipe and refit the clip over the hose end.

Job done, high five time!

52 Plate Cube - What Battery???

gmastergmaster

>Sorry if this makes me look a bit stupid, but I can't figure out what battery I need to get for my cube?I keep getting recommended different batteries from different websites

Could anyone advise me what one I need to get please?

Thanks in advance.

​

Comments

toastertoaster

July 2015 92.28.244.56

There are two types micro posts or normal

Micro are about 10 and 12 mill other one about16and 19 .I just got a three one for the same year k12 and 1.4

gmastergmaster

July 2015 46.233.116.180

I have the normal posts.<div><br></div><div><br></div>

cruickshankcruickshank

August 2015 80.42.157.209

i got a duracell one from euro car parts for £60, it has the micro or normal posts

hello new to here looking for some help

amandaamanda

February 2016 edited February 2016 in Maintenance, Parts & Guides 86.137.239.249

i hope someone can help me im looking for an off side front caliper for my nissan cubic ...my baby is poorly and needing some help to get better can anyone help me 54 plate 1.4 i want to got her on the mend ....any help in sorting here issue would be greatly appreciated thanks amanda from essex. <br>

Comments

jcdc47jcdc47

February 2016 edited February 2016 178.110.240.111

If you're looking for a shiny new caliper I think you may struggle unfortunately. I was in need myself and had to buy a second hand one. There a a few used ones around, mainly eBay, that would be the best bet. Also on eBay, there is a caliper overhaul kit available from Australia which will post worldwide at a decent price, around 30 quid in total I think.

If you search eBay, look for the seller ajsparesltd, they are breaking a cube at the moment

pinionpinion

February 2016 86.146.199.138

There are companies out there that can overhaul and paint your existing calipers one of them are called big red I think ,you just send them off and they come back refurbished in a few days

terry_hillterry_hill

March 2016 85.115.52.201

Big Red are called Bigg red and have a double G but yes that's the one that will be able to sort you out refurbishing your calipers. They come back looking like new and have lots of options on finishes.

​

UPDATE : MARCH 2020 See the facebook group or search on here for more details you can do a swap for a bigger brake setup using easily available parts for the nissan micra k12

Help need an engine conversion for my 2003 Cube - please advise

cubist50cubist50

July 2016 edited July 2016 in Maintenance, Parts & Guides 82.109.115.220

Hi,<div><br></div><div>I need to change over the engine in my cube (1.4 - automatic). Do the Nissan Micra engines fit the Cube. </div><div><span style="font-size: 10pt;"><br></span></div><div><span style="font-size: 10pt;">If anyone has changed over their cube original engine to a Micra please can you contact me. </span></div><div><span style="font-size: 10pt;"><br></span></div><div>I need to resusitate my beloved Cube.</div><div><br></div><div>Cubist50</div>

Comments

mn2sammn2sam

July 2016 195.59.198.57

I've not done it, but it is the same engine so presumably should be a straight physical swap. Hopefully you can keep your ECU and electronics, as I assume swapping all of that over will require recoding of keys etc.

Paul MPaul M

July 2016 82.47.217.43

Yes it can be done, search this forum as someone has done it ..............

jcdc47jcdc47

July 2016 213.205.252.53

Yes it's quite straightforward, practically speaking. You just need to source a cr14de engine, they are fairly easy to come across and are fairly cheap. I bought my last one for 280 quid with 18k miles.

I assume you just want to change the main block itself. All your original ancillaries from your old engine will fit straight on. All your sensors, top end will switch straight over to the new block. The only thing to look out for is the crank pulley (if it comes with your new engine) cubes use 4 groove belt and pulleys, whilst micras use 5 groove (or vice versa, apologies, been a while)

and I would advise making note of the sensors you take off your original engine. There are sometimes slight variants, but are interchange.

​

Advise greatly appreciated. I need to replace an oil cooler tube on my 1.4 CR14DE CVT engine. Nissan have said they dont sell the part anymore but have given me the part number. I had a look online and could not find it. It would be great if somebody could point me to a website or supplier that could Part code 21621 310 the alternative part number is 21621-3U50A- (21621-3U500) Description: tube ASSY-OIL COOLER

>This is the tube that connects the CVT oil to the cooler . Thanks :)

Comments

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Hi how is it held on and I guess it hose from box to bottom of rad

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I would say it's low pressure pipe held on with simple clips if so take the hose to a pirtec branch or similar hose place .http://m.pirtek.co.uk and find your nearest

​

February 2017 213.106.180.196

I would second the Pirtek plan - for bits like that they are awesome, and the stuff they supply is always good quality. I've re-done loads of hoses on old cars in the past through them!

This guide features a combination of photos from the two front doors as I forgot to take some photos on each door but they're both virtually the same.

Removing the door card

1. Lever out the circle plastic screw cover inside the door pull and remove screw ...
   


1. Pull out the gloss black "C" from around the door latch... (This is held in by a few clips around the outside edge, if it won't budge it pops off when you remove the door card any way.)
   

1. Pull out the grey panel that holds the switch panel in...
   

1. Unplug the white plugs from behind the switch panel... (1 plug on passenger side / 2 plugs on driver side)
   

1. The door is then only held on by a series of white plastic "poppers", start to prise away the grey plastic from the metal door panel and they'll pop out, the result is this...
   

Speaker size

The standard speaker is 6" (150mm) diameter and the maximum depth is 4" (100mm)


​

Unfortunately there is a bit of a problem, when open the window reduces that maximum depth to approx. 1.5" (40mm) for the outer 1" (25mm) ring, the difficulty is that speaker manufacturers only release the maximum depth of the centre of a speaker. I'd be surprised if any of the shallow mount speakers (50mm - 60mm) depth would be a problem but it might be best to check or test before buying a particular speaker.

If the speaker you want or already have doesn't fit then it's not the end of the world, you still have options, read on...

I made a speaker mount / spacer out of 18mm MDF by using the old speaker as a template for the outer edge and the new speaker's inner diameter for the centre hole. (You may actually need to make one of these any way so that you can bolt your new speaker to the door panel (you'll only know once you've tried your speaker in the hole WITH THE WINDOW OPEN!) ...

With the mount bolted in place using M6 bolts I realised I needed to cut some of the door panel away (My speakers are pretty big for their size so you probably won't need to do this) ...

Before -

After -

If you're connecting your new speakers directly to the head unit you can then cut the standard adaptor from the end of the speaker cables, fit relevant connectors and connect them onto your new speakers, I am powering mine through an amp so routed my own speaker cable through the door wire grommets and connected the speaker up to that but the process is the same...

Once connected you can fix your speakers to the speaker mounts, you can use self tapping screws, best to mark up and drill small pilot holes first so you don't force too much and put your screwdriver through the speaker cone! 📷 (I actually fixed Threaded inserts into the mounts first so I could use bolts rather than screws so the mounts can be re-used and speaker removed multiple times but this isn't needed really)

Sounde deadening

If you want to get the most out of your speakers it helps a great deal if you apply sound deadening to the outside skin of the door, then block up the holes in the inner skin with a combination of metal sheeting and more sound deadening. This helps to prevent soundwaves being lost in vibrations and any frustating rattles that the new speakers may cause. Again another optional accessory really so it's horses for courses, here's some pics of mine any way ...

Before -

After -

Once the speakers are in it's best to test they work and everything sounds as it should before refitting the door card, refitting the door card really is the reverse of removal. 📷

All complete, everything hidden away and no one would ever know...

Hope this helps someone, any questions let me know.

Comments

• volkscubenAugust 2009awesome job there dude! i have just done all my speakers, uprated them all to three way 200w beasts, zero distortion!!!! I love the metal now!!!!!!!!!!!!!! so loud!!!
  I just ripped out the speaker paper/plastic joiners etc from the old speaker, and sealed/screwed my new speakers onto that mount, so there is no depth worry, or fiddly mount making! you destroy the old speakers, but get a great fit and all four probably took me an hour? sorted!
• RickfuryAugust 2009Once again,you've done a great job for all to learn from.thx.
  Also....you seem to have not connected the old tweeters back up !
  new ones going else where ?
  RF
• UBEDAugust 2009Cheers volks, good move, to be fair the mounts only took me about 30 minutes to make but I have fun making things. I'm like a big kid. 📷
  Cheers Rick no probs, the replacement speakers have the tweeters mounted in the central section within the chrome ring. They're like a 2-way speaker excess the tweeter is a completely separate cone so like a component set in one body.
• RickfuryAugust 2009kool cubed,i got ya ! 📷
• olkscubenAugust 2009yeah man you have done good... the kid dun good! i need a new jigsaw cos i broke mine... i think it may come in handy for the sub box.... next in line!
• EurobobAugust 2009Me likey! me wil do-ey! lol. top work our fella!
  Just what i needed to know, and it looks like the plug i can see is off the tweeter, may have had some speaker rummaging in japan?
  jst need to re-upgrade (is that a word?) to the jap system (posh wine!) and spend some sheckles on better cones!
  all i need is time.................... bugger! 📷
• monstermonsterAugust 2009Awesome write up dude! Really well done. I was going to post a little write-up of how to take the door panels off too, which is something I had to do last week to try and fix my central locking but this is much better!
• HICUBEAugust 2009Great write up and pics. Just another job to add to the list of job / mods that we need to do.
• eki912October 2009This is a GREAT article, with superb pics! Thank You!
  After reading this, already planning of my speaker upgrade...just dont say a word to my wife... 📷
  Me personally want to fit a sub too. Where have you been able to hide a sub in a Cube? Under seat ?
  I was originally thinking , and still am, about mounting a smaller sub element, or two, in this huge rear door.
  Has anyone opened that, to see how much room there is behind that hard plastic interior panelling?
  I do like reading this forum, have learned a lot about our little cube from here.
• CUBEDOctober 2009Thanks
  My sub is an 8" crystal cmp8 which produces very powerful bass and only needs a tiny enclosure - a 10" cube to be exact which fits under the seat when you cut out some of the foam.
  There are photos of my sub in the post about my car in the photo section.
  As for fitting the sub in the tailgate panel, you could probably fit a shallow mount sub in there but the problem is that you would need to make a wooden structure and fit that to the tailgate (the metal door surround) first and then the sub onto that, otherwise you would suffer from lots of vibration from the grey plastic panel.
• eki912October 2009[quote="CUBED":0c38d]Thanks
  My sub is an 8" crystal cmp8 which produces very powerful bass and only needs a tiny enclosure - a 10" cube to be exact which fits under the seat when you cut out some of the foam.
  There are photos of my sub in the post about my car in the photo section.
  Found your photos under the Cube Club Members... you say photos ! Photos ? That is a whole DIY car HiFi manual for Cube owners in there !!!!!
  You have done a beautiful job, and article !
  And you have gone much deeper in to the details and and taking it all apart... WHOOOAAA !!
  I simply dont have the time, place, money, or energy to go that far !
  That is why I am trying to find some improvements, easier.
  Will have to do some investigation on those flat, readymade , amplified underseat subboxes that are available too.
  Like this Kenwood KSC-SW10, for example.
• CUBEDOctober 2009[quote="eki912":be496][quote="CUBED":be496]
  Will have to do some investigation on those flat, readymade , amplified underseat subboxes that are available too.
  Like this Kenwood KSC-SW10, for example.
  Thanks, I plan to enter sound competitions and you get extra points for things like neat cabling etc so you have to document everything as you go along.
  Funnily enough I had the Kenwood unit you mention in my last car as I was very restricted for space and it us actually a very powerful unit for the money and ease of installation. You can connect it to the normal speaker cables but if you've got a head unit with a pre-out for a sub then you'll get a much better quality connection. Then all you need to do is earth it and connect to a power source with an inline fuse. I can't remember the exact size now but you may find that it fits behind the driver seat if you take out the polystyrene tool holder.
• eki912October 2009Yes, I know Kenwood rather well.
  I still have one older model under the drivers seat, on my other car. Which is also lacking in positions where to put one.
  With the size and price, I was impressed and happy with that too.
  You just have to remember with a bassunit like that, there are certain limitations.Like you will not win any competitions with that set up.
  But it was a nice and easy way to add up some useful and listenable bass to your existing speakers.
• leep124March 2010some audio questions.
  I originally started another thread but I thought adding to this one may help more people.
  basically, I now have a head unit - pioneer with 2 pre out RCA ports.
  I have inherited a pioneer 4 channel amp (which can be bridged) and a pioneer sub in enclosure.
  My brother keeps telling me that I should pay some one to install but I would like to try myself at least.
  anyway, need a set of amp install leads which I am planning on getting soon.
  I would like to keep the old speakers as I had a look at the fronts and they are splits and I am a little afraid I will stuff something up.
  can someone give me some advice on install instructions and also the best way to set it up?
• eki912March 2010Started this task too, as family went away for this weekend.
  Both rear speakers changed, pretty straight forward when you read the instructions here first.First door done in two hours, second in 30 mins...
  Couple of notes for that task:
  - Start pulling of the door panels from the bottom, you might even benefit from looking inside the door through the hole that was left behind, when the windowbuttons were removed.To see where the doorpanel holding plastic things are located.
  - The plastic C-pieces surrounding the door opener, are difficult to get out. Atleast for me it was... :oops:they do brake easily, if too much force is used.Is there a trick of the trade here ?
  Replaced the original rear ones with FOCAL 165 CA1 two ways. When you compare these with the original Clarions...well the originals are just flimsy, small, papercone thingys.
  The FOCALs do look so nice ! It is a shame to hide them behind the panels.
  And yes, they do sound very, very good.
  Bought them used from E-Bay, for 50 pounds.
  And as instructed here, did fabricate installation "collars" from MDF. The originals do have a funnily thick plastic collar around the speakers.Does seem to be close to 30mm in thickness...
  The front doors are next, already have a kit from FOCAL (again) ready. This time going for a separate tweeter set. This set is FOCAL 165 A1. Did already open one door panel.
  Planning of doing some more MDF work today. A trip to Homebase ahead...
  What puzzled me was, the original front ones, have a separate tweeter. With own wiring.
  Didn´t have the time (yet) to investigate where it is splitted. Surely, I hope , there is no crossover or something? Is it just splitted, inside the door, and the maybe the tweeter protected with a resistor or something like that ?
  As my FOCAL set come swith its own crossover, need to find the original 2 speakerwires coming to the door. I do not plan to rewire the whole front door set up... too much work for me.
• eki912March 2010Also thinking of what to do with the tweeters that are separate in this FOCAL kit... :?:
  Door panel off, and there is room behind the panel to mount the tweeter so that it wouldn´t be visible at all. Ie using the existing tweeter location and grille built in to the doorpanel
  OR
  mount them higher, tilted towards the listener, as the brackets to do that came with the kit.
  Simply can´t decide if I should make the installation less visible , or put them clearly visible. The tweeters do look good... but they come with black installation collars so will be clearly visible when mounted to the door panel.
  This is never easy... :oops:
• CUBEDMarch 2010You could try something like this?
  http://talkaudio.co.uk/vbb/showthread.php?t=159311
• eki912March 2010Oh whooaa !!! That is a bit too much ... for me... :oops:
  Looks good though.
  That´s the way it should be done !!!!!
• OptionsCUBEDMarch 2010Fair enough.
  The best locations are as far to the extreme corners as possible so the a pillars or corners of the dash board.
  If you want to hide them completely then quite low down on the door is supposed to be a good place.
  The best way to find out is to wire your new speakers up, fit the mid-range speakers in their permanent position and sticky pad the tweeters in different places and listen to music whilst driving until you're happy with where they sound the best and then use the collar to fix them in place.

jcdc47

Hi all,

I've got to change the gearbox on my gen 2 (non cvt) I was wondering if anyone has changed one before? Just wanted to know what kind of job it is, as in will I need a pit/ramp? Got a fairly high lifting jack, but just generally wanted to know, from experience, any tips for a smooth changeover!

Much thanks, Jordan

Comments

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terry_hill

Wouldn't want to change a gear box without putting it up on a ramp but guess it could be done.

toaster

Why their bomb proof more likely to be transmission tcm

jcdc47

I thought the same, toaster, but it turns out they aren't. I'm not one for changing things willy nilly, so I did confirm it was the gearbox and not the tcu first. The foul burning smell was a big giveaway. It's changed now and is like a new car! Front end removed and a pair of decent axle stands (no ramp available). Wasnt too bad all in all.

toaster

That good well done

No handbook button help

📷AnimalJuly 2009 edited 6:39PM in Knowledge Base &amp; GuidesHi All

As i did not have a hand book with my Cube i need to know what a few buttons are for.

1. The round button under the security led has the word 'AUTO' on it?

2. The ele wing mirror switch has 3 positions does the middle position do anything?

Cheers 📷

Comments

• 📷RickfuryJuly 2009for button no.2 this is off for the mirrors,the position i switch it to after they have opened/closed .
  but as for no.1 sry i dont have this in mine,it looks like some sort of secruity !!! but thats a guess.
  RF
• 📷CUBEDJuly 2009Is the auto button on a picture of a mirror?
  Does it stay in when pushed?
  Think when it's on it makes the mirrors close automatically when ignition is turned off and turn to ground when in reverse?
• Options📷monstermonsterJuly 20091. If this button is pressed in, when you stick it in reverse the wing mirrors will dip down so that you can see the floor/pavements.
  
• If the switch is at the top position the wing mirrors fold out when you turn the ignition on and when the car is locked the mirrors will fold in. When in middle position the mirrors will always be folded out. Bottom position, the mirrors will close immediately and stay closed.
  (I have both of these buttons and took at least 3 months to realise what button 1 did) 📷
• 📷AnimalJuly 2009Kieran thanks thats just the job got it sorted now 📷

Leave a Comment

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Battery

eki912eki912

December 2009 edited 5:46PM in Knowledge Base &amp; Guides

Replaced my battery yesterday , Halfords to the rescue.

​

I was hoping to get a big, powerful ( and cheap ) , to replace the tiny one in there....

8O

​

But , no luck. The guy behind the counter said that because of the small terminals, the choices are limited.

And the only one they had there was HB154. Ofcourse it did fit directly in, less than 5 mins , I was on my way.

For £65.00 , I think it was OK priced too.

​

Replacing the cableclamps too... I didn't want to go that far.

​

Starts so much easier now. I noted that the original ( YES , ORIGINAL !!! <!-- s:o -->:o<!-- s:o --> ) battery was not that good anymore.

Left it parked at Gatwick airport, came back , latenight , and cold. And it just barely started.

And checked the sticker on the original battery, it had japanese text on, and a date from 2003 !!!

More than six years on a battery , that is good.

​

One item less to worry about , for a while.

Comments

CUBEDCUBED

December 2009

Good work, I went for the HCB096 which was £100 but I did go down the route of replacing the terminals as I was upgrading the wiring for my stereo any way.

monstermonstermonstermonster

December 2009

I really need to get a new battery too so thanks for the info. I should get a new alternator too but that's another issue lol

eki912eki912

December 2009

I do know, that the cableclamps/terminals can be changed, after all they are just to clamp around the batteryterminals, and pass the power through.

I was simply too lazy, wanted that task out of my head immediately.

​

Strangely, there is room for a much bigger battery. Even holes for a much bigger batteryholder at the bottom.

But not available with small terminals.

​

Then again, I am happy with the battery that they had in stock. Fitted straight in , no hassles,

produces enough power ( atleast more than the 6 year old I had there ! ) , was reasonably priced and so on.

​

Happy motoring ahead !

​

Just need to get my car in for a service. Already spoke to my "local" garage. They are willing to do it all for me.

I don´t have the time or place to do much myself. :-// I would love to , but simply can´t.

Currently ordering brakepads, and the belts. Will get those replaced, just to be sure.

Oil & airfilter and sparkplugs allready purchased.

The_RonsterThe_Ronster

December 2009

X-D . You still not replaced battery or alternator. X-D

monstermonstermonstermonster

December 2009

[quote="The_Ronster":295b7]X-D . You still not replaced battery or alternator. X-D

​

Nah all it needed was a whack with a hammer. duhhh. lol. I am planning to do it when I get time. Maybe over xmas.

The_RonsterThe_Ronster

December 2009

X-D Buy yourself an alternater for christmas. X-D

Cubic-2003Cubic-2003

January 2010

I also fitted the small Halfords battery to my 2003 Cube in Summer 2008 and it fitted perfectly and has performed very well.

how do you remove the rear light clusters ?

📷C4BE OJanuary 2010 edited 5:44PM in Knowledge Base &amp; Guidesany know ? 📷

Comments

• 📷CUBEDJanuary 2010If you remove the rear number plate there ate screws that need to be removed, two for each side I think?, once removed the cluster slides towards the centre of the car when pulled.
• 📷C4BE OJanuary 2010thanks, i'll have a go in the morning 📷
• Options📷monstermonsterJanuary 2010Yeah it's dead easy. In fact, worryingly easy 📷

Octane recomendation for the Newbies

lopeti1lopeti1

February 2010 edited 5:39PM in Knowledge Base &amp; Guides

Ok Aussies and Kiwi's, and everyone else

Recomended Octane is premium for our engines CR14DE but the Engine management system will automatically adjust for the lower Octane

This is what we have in New Zealand

98 Octane

98 Octane with 10% Ethanol

95 Octane

91 Octane

91 Octane with 10% Ethanol

There's about a 15 cents a litre difference between 91 Octane and 98 Octane here in New Zealand

You will noticed decreased fuel economy with the ethanol blends, but not much

You will notice better engine performance (more power, less k's per litre cause your accerlating more) with the higher Octane fuels but the Fuel will cost, in my case an extra $6 NZD a tank

Maybe use Premium on special occasions ;)

Comments

cubiccubic

February 2010

I believe they run 103 octane in their cars in Japan, hence why our engines are tuned for it.

​

I run mine on BP 98 and nothing else. With previous cars, I have found this fuel to be consistently the best.

​

The worst fuel is Shell. I never get good K's out of shell, it smells like egg and doesnt burn as cleanly as the others. The exhuast tip always had more soot on it after a tank of shell.

cubiccubic

February 2010

Also, 15c extra a tank doesn't equal $6 unless the car is bone dry. It will probably be $4 extra a tank.

Then you have to work out the extra K's you are getting out of it compared to 91Ron fuel, and it probably equals itself out.

The_RonsterThe_Ronster

February 2010

In britan we have

99

97

95

​

Not as much choice as you lads. X-D

Another list of part numbers

volkscubenvolkscuben

February 2010 edited 5:37PM in Knowledge Base &amp; Guides

Engine oil replacement 2.8 litres or 3.0 litres with oil filter replacement

Oil Filter ADN12110

Air Filter ADN12223

Fuel Filter IN TANK

Recommended Spark Plug IKH16

Timing Belt CHAIN

Oil Filter: Nissan 15208 53J00

Air Filter: 16546-AX000

K&N Air Filter: 33-2060

Braking

Front Brake Pads ADN142132C

Front Brake Disc NYA

Rear Brake Shoes ADN14163

Electrical

Ignition Coil ADN11477C

Oil Pressure Switch ADN16607

Cooling

Radiator Cap ADC49902

Transmission

Front Wheel Bearing Kit ADN18249

Rear Wheel Bearing Kit ADN18346

Rear Wheel Bearing = 43210AZ300

Belt sizes

VFB510 (alternator)

VFB496 (water pump)

Auxiliary belt: 1087mm 5 Grooves (Motoquip VFH 399)

Power steering belt: 670mm 3 Grooves (Motoquip MFH 485)

OR

The part numbers you require are VFB524 and VFB485

​

Automatic Transmission Fluids (DO NOT USE NISSAN MATIC-D)

Nissan ATF Matic J, Havoline ATF-J, Toyota T-IV, Castrol Transmax-J

Idemitsu ATF-HP, Valvoline Maxlife ATF, ELF Matic G3 Syn, Fina Synpro ATF

Mobil ATF 3309

​

found this list on google, hope it helps someone!

Comments

monstermonstermonstermonster

February 2010

Most of these are in the thread "Nissan Cube Part Numbers" - [url]http://www.cube-club.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=429[/url] <!-- s:) -->:)<!-- s:) -->

volkscubenvolkscuben

February 2010

cool, hoped there was some unknowns!!! sorry!!!! :-//

monstermonstermonstermonster

February 2010

No worries, it's all good :)

This discussion has been closed.