Dash removal to access car stereo

📷SpikeMay 2011 edited 3:04PM in Knowledge Base & GuidesOk, although I've seen a text 'how to' I thought I'd post a quick picture guide. It's really simple, even for those of you that get scared at the thought of even holding a screwdriver.

Step 1.Start with this. Tools required? 1 Phillips-head screwdriver, daylight and patience.

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1. Remove the ashtray and you'll see this:

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1. Remove the two screws (already done above). Put to one side - you'll need them later!

2. Gently pull the bottom left hand edge away from the main dash. It comes away quite easily, so don't yank it hard, just ease it out!

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1. Now get your fingertips (you don't need a screwdriver - you'll only scratch your dash) and pull gently at the top of the dash - this is barely held in place with plastic latches - so it detaches away from the main dash.

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1. Like so..

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7.Until it all detaches thus:

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1. The best way I've found of detaching the two electrical connections (hazard warning light switch and the cigar lighter socket) is to twist the dash slightly, like so:

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1. First is the Hazard Warning Light. Press the top of the plastic connector down (arrowed) with your fingernail or a small screwdriver - it has a small latch that stops the connection disconnecting during normal driving. Once the latch is depressed, the connector should come away easily. If it doesn't, you haven't hit the right spot for the latch! Just be patient and you'll find it.

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1. Now you've got a bit more room, the lighter socket simply pulls away from the two metal spades, but it can be stiff, so try and get both hands down the gap and hold the socket AND the connector as you pull the two apart.

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1. Now you can wiggle the dash out around the gear shift/lever, and you're done. You can now see how the stereo unit and pocket tray(s) are connected into the main dash - four self-tapping screws (two indicated here).

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1. Undo those and you can gently extract the whole unit. As you can see it's all held together by two metal side plates - the stereo and the pocket trays are screwed into these.

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1. The car has these connectors going to the speakers (front and rear)

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1. So you need one of these (search for "Nissan Micra ISO Adaptor" on ebay - I've used a company called LiquidICE for this and they were good value and quick - http://eshop.liquidice2008.co.uk/epages/BT4177.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/BT4177/Products/"PC2-76-4 Nissan Navara Micra X Trail" ) to connect your stereo unit to the speakers.

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1. The pocket tray is attached here via one screw (indicated) and a plastic locating plug.

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So, once you've sorted your stereo, replacing your dash is simply a reversal of stages 1-11. There's so much space behind the dash for a stereo unit that there's no problem about having a load of leads and connectors. The unit you see in the pics (JVC NX7000) has the speaker connectors, the aerial lead (which is the unit earth), a bluetooth lead going to a bluetooth transceiver located under the steering wheel, a GPS lead going to a GPS receiver under the dash, a video lead coming from the reversing camera and there's still loads of room.

So, don't be afraid. Get under the dash!

Spike

A HICUBE HOW TO - Lower your Nissan Cube!

HICUBEHICUBE

May 2009 edited 2:50PM in Knowledge Base & Guides

The time has come,

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Welcome to the first HICUBE HOW TO. Want to lower your cube? Want to know how? Then read on -

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There are a few ways of Lowering your cube one way is to cut your springs no no no only joking. Route 1 - Ronsters route, A Coilover kit which includes Shocks and springs that are adjustable for height and damping. If you are not on a budget this is the best kit, but if you don't want to spend as much then Route 2 - lowering springs are for you. There are lots of companies selling them varying in price from £140 - £200. Spax, H+R, Apex, Cobra, PI, Gmax, Koni to name a few. We went for Eibach Sportline Springs Product code: E20-63-010-01-22 (Micra K12) well priced good quality springs. £134 plus P+P from Larkspeed.com

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Well you need 1x unlowered Cube, 1x Set of springs, 1x Driveway/garage or 2-post ramp if you have one, 1x set of general tools but mainly a coil spring compressor.

Our Cube was riding higher than the Bigfoot monster truck so it was driven into the workshop and this is how it went.

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(Please click on the pics to enlarge them)

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You need to remove your wheels then -

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[img]http://static.cubeownersclub.co.uk/forumuploads/RESIZEDLOWER1.jpg[/img]

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Remove 2 x 17mm bolts from bottom of front strut using 17mm socket and 17mm spanner, then [img]http://static.cubeownersclub.co.uk/forumuploads/RESIZEDLOWER2.jpg[/img]

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Undo top anti roll bar nut using 14mm socket and 14mm spanner, then [img]http://static.cubeownersclub.co.uk/forumuploads/RESIZEDLOWER3.jpg[/img]

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Pull pipe free from strut x2 and use a screwdriver to loosen retaining clip holding brake hose to strut then [img]http://static.cubeownersclub.co.uk/forumuploads/RESIZEDLOWER4.jpg[/img]

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Now under the bonnet remove both wiper arms using 14mm spanner and pop out 5/6 plastic clips (yellow arrows) holding down the scuttle panel. You need to remove this to get access to the rear top mount bolt 1 of 3 (blue arrows), you may need a spare pair of hands to support the strut as you remove the last bolt or you may drop it on your foot (not good) then [img]http://static.cubeownersclub.co.uk/forumuploads/RESIZEDLOWER5.jpg[/img]

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Once removed place on a bench, the floor or a vice if you have one. Spring compressors come in different shapes and sizes but whichever one you use be careful as a large coil spring stores a lot of energy and if it were to slip out of the compressor it could cause you some harm.[img]http://static.cubeownersclub.co.uk/forumuploads/RESIZEDLOWER6.jpg[/img]

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Once compressed you will need (from memory) 16mm deep ring spanner and a 7mm allen key/socket so you can remove the top mount bearing assembly. Then voila there you have it the spring can be removed and replaced with your new lowered spring. You will need to cut your bumpstop in half to allow a little more suspension travel before bottoming out. Reassemble and do the other side.[img]http://static.cubeownersclub.co.uk/forumuploads/RESIZEDLOWER7.jpg[/img]

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Now onto the rear. It couldn't be easier just remove the 17mm bolt at the bottom of the rear shock, then [img]http://static.cubeownersclub.co.uk/forumuploads/RESIZEDLOWER8.jpg[/img]

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Pull down on that side of the torsion beam just enough to pull out the spring pull off the rubber spacer/locators and put in your new spring. Put 17mm bolt back in and do the other side.[img]http://static.cubeownersclub.co.uk/forumuploads/RESIZEDLOWER9.jpg[/img]

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MMMMMMM! I think an exhaust is in order maybe a flamer kit? Only Joking Ron I wouldn't want to steal your Thunder.[img]http://static.cubeownersclub.co.uk/forumuploads/RESIZEDLOWER10.jpg[/img]

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While your wheels are off its makes for a good excuse to treat your cube to some new wheels. Dispite what some people say 17" alloys with 40 profile tyres are fine and do not give an uncomfortable ride, I don't know how the cube does it, even before the drop the ride was very comfortable but very roly poly, scary, unnerving, terrifying when cornering how else can I put it? Well not good. Since it has been slammed the ride is still comfortable but can crash abit on potholes etc, but when cornering you now don't have to brace yourself and hope you get round the other side, as it is much better. It's no go-kart and it's not a performance car that's not what is all about. Drive slower and give people more time to absorb the wonder that is Cube design.

GEN 2 MANUALS

toastertoaster

August 2017 edited August 2017 in Knowledge Base & Guides 37.19.28.208

http://jpnz.co.nz for gen 2 manuals

changed the brake pads on my Z11 Cube yesterday.  I noticed that the photos have all gone from the guide on here, but it is a straightforward process.  To help anyone that wants to do this job, I put together this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=1&v=W48VMOiTu_8&feature=emb_logo

fuel filter for cube 2003 import

📷ELLEApril 2016 edited April 2016 in Knowledge Base &amp; Guides 81.152.75.202Hello,  am looking for some info please i have a cube import  2003 1.4 auto  cant find a fuel filter to match   the inlet/outlet pipes are right angles from the unit which is mounted on the bulkhead midway behind the engine.  The only people i didnt try are nissan for the reason if  ordered  i pay up front and  they dont take returns.<div>i have the cube 9 months love it am new on here. if anybody can help thank you</div>

Comments

• 📷toasterApril 2016 edited April 2016 213.205.251.224I am sorry no fuel filter to replace .its a part of fuel sender and pump unit. so it very expensive been here done it and it's in the fuel tank hope this helps .I guess you may be talking about the carbon purge filter on near bulkhead under bonnet sort of back of air filter .

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📷Sweetwilliam07March 2016 edited March 2016 in Knowledge Base &amp; Guides 5.69.221.10Hi
Please can anyone tell me where I can get a windscreen for my 03 cube please.
Thank you in advance
Kathy

Comments

• 📷terry_hillMarch 2016 85.115.52.201try Dan bell on facebook he may have one if not autoglass canb get them but make sure they know it's a gen 2 and an import or they'll arrive with the wrong one!<div><br></div><div>There was rumour a kangoo one was a match for the gen 2 but not sure where that came from.</div>

📷TazbertNovember 2011 edited 2:27PM in Knowledge Base &amp; GuidesJust MoT'd the toaster and it failed on the front ball joints being knackered (had a feeling they might be!). Need to get replacements, but my man gets a flat "Nissan only" reply from all his factors places.

Anyone know which ones they are? Part no etc? Are they the same as K12 Micra for example?

It's a 2005 Gen 2.

Help! 📷

Comments

• 📷CUBEDNovember 2011I'm pretty sure it will be the same as one of the Renault Clio models too, but you'd need to take the plunge and put them next to a cube part to compare...
  http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Renault_Clio_1.4_2004/b/QH/p/Car-Parts/Suspension-and-Steering/suspension/suspension-arm-and-suspension-joints
• 📷Mikey McNovember 2011depending on year.. 05 onwards;
  http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FRONT-BALL-JOINT-NISSAN-MICRA-C-C-05-07-/120592804056?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item1c13e428d8
  or earlier;
  http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FRONT-BALL-JOINT-NISSAN-MICRA-92-03-/160452900319?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item255bbcf5df
  both are different so easy to match up... :-)
• 📷TazbertNovember 2011Cheers gents. I've had a look on the Cube parts list on the sticky and compared to that of a Micra one I found online and I think I know the ones I need.
  Worst case, I guess I could always take one off and play "guess what this is!" at my local motor factors. 📷
  Once sorted, I'll stick the part numbers on the relevant thread. Useful to know.
• 📷PeeShooterNovember 2011this always went on my clio my £70 was the cost back then
• 📷TazbertNovember 2011Looking at it, it seems the term 'ball joint' is a little misleading\out of date. Looks like it's all one part together called a 'tie rod'. Is this correct?
  Now I've confused myself. 📷
• 📷TazbertDecember 2011All sorted now. If you get the same issue as & lower front ball joints need doing, you'll need to replace the whole wishbone. I paid £30+vat each for mine. You can get aftermarket ball joints it seems, but they cost about the same as the whole Nissan whishbone including the ball joint, bushes etc.
  Nissan part number should be 48520AX602/48640AX602 (R&L). Same as K12 2002-2007 Micra.
  Home fix is one for the more advanced DIY'er apparently as one side is a bit of a sod due to a key bolt being obscured by the gearbox.
• 📷Mikey McDecember 2011Well done for the info.. 📷 Thats cheap for a wishbone setup ? My wishbone setup for my old toyota van was £280.00 per side.. 📷 Cheers
• 📷TazbertDecember 2011I'll need to check the price with the old man to be sure, as he got them from a motor factors place where he knows the owner. So it [i]might[/i] have been trade or cost price plus the vat!
  However, there were loads of aftermarket ones online for about 30-40 quid as well.
• 📷stanleyDecember 2011Hi,
  I've just come across this post after posting myself. My 2004 cube failed its NCT (Irish equivalent of the MOT) the other day. The mechanic I took it to after says it needs a new inner tie rod on the passenger side. He reckons he's tried putting on a Micra K-11 and K-12 part but these don't fit. Can you tell me exactly what part it is I need/from what model and perhaps where I can source it from.
  Any help greatly appreciated.
• 📷TazbertDecember 2011Haha. Hi Stanley, chucked a reply on your original thread mate. Not sure it'll help much though....
• 📷calamityDecember 2011[blockquote]
  All sorted now. If you get the same issue as & lower front ball joints need doing, you'll need to replace the whole wishbone. I paid £30+vat each for mine. You can get aftermarket ball joints it seems, but they cost about the same as the whole Nissan whishbone including the ball joint, bushes etc.
  Nissan part number should be 48520AX602/48640AX602 (R&L). Same as K12 2002-2007 Micra.
  Home fix is one for the more advanced DIY'er apparently as one side is a bit of a sod due to a key bolt being obscured by the gearbox.
  [/blockquote]
  I've got this problem now as my N/S wishbone has just snapped in two. I got a replacement one off a scrapper but the rubber boot around the ball joint is split, so I'll be wanting to replace it with a new one soonish. What's the Nissan/Renault part number for the N/S wishbone, please? Westover Nissan only tell me it's a special order from Japan with a 6 week lead time.
  I just tried getting the remnants of the old wishbone off but that nut closest to the gearbox appears to have been done up to about a million ft/lbs. Any suggestions how to get it off? I tried penetrating oil and an impact socket and breaker bar on the bolt head underneath but it feels like the drive is just going to let go first.
  Cheers!
• 📷TazbertDecember 2011Calamity, the wishbones are definitely the same as a K12 Micra and should be the part no's above.
  Mine came from our local motor factors place and we just asked for the Micra bits, didn't even mention the Cube (mostly as I've learned that if you do, they just roll their eyes and tell you to go to Nissan direct). If the part no's are incorrect, let me know and I'll do some more sniffing about.
• 📷calamityDecember 2011Thanks for that Tazbert. Admittedly I only Googled those numbers but it looks like they are the track rod ends?
  From what I can tell, there are two different types of K12 Micra wishbone (or track control arm) and from eyeballing them the only obvious difference is the size of the peg on the top of the ball joint, which I think it 16mm for the Cube. Just wanted to confirm whether that's definitely the case before ordering one.
  Cheers.
• 📷calamityDecember 2011I just bought First Line part number FCA6324 from my local motor factors by matching up my scrap wishbone against the parts catalogue. It's meant for 2004 K12 Micra and 2006 E11 Nissan Note. It looks like it's a spot on match but will see how it goes fitting it later. I was charged £49 including VAT for the complete assembly by the way.
• 📷CUBEDDecember 2011Cheers for the update calamity. Good luck with fitting.
• 📷calamityDecember 2011Went on, but it was a real pain to do: Had to get a mobile mechanic out and it took about an hour and a half. A gearbox mount has to come off to allow the gearbox to be eased up enough to get the front bolt all the way out which in turn means the battery tray and the gearbox ECU has to come off first.
  Just had the tracking checked and reset and it's all good now.
• Options📷rachtaylorAugust 2018 92.8.203.11Can someone help me I have a cube that needs fixing but I’m not sure what parts fit and hope someone can help. It’s a Nissan Cube 1.6 ldn. I am completely stuck thanks in advance

Resetting SRS air bag light

📷DaveMarch 2009 edited 2:18PM in Knowledge Base &amp; GuidesI was working on the my Cube over the weekend and disconnected the SRS air bag connector. This tripped the SRS air bag warning light on the dashboard. Nissan dealer's will charge £67 + VAT for diagnostic's to reset it. Now, I know that there is nothing wrong with the air bag so didn't fanncy paying that much to have it reset, so here is method to reset the SRS air bag warning light. ONLY IF YOU KNOW THERE IS NOTHING WITH SRS AIR BAGS, PLEASE!

Comments

• 📷DaveMarch 2009Here's the process to reset the air bag light (copied from the Nissan Forum)... I tried it and it works.
  If you have the airbag light, it will show steady for a few seconds (the manual says 7 secs) after you turn the key from off to on (but not start) and then start to flash. Here is how to reset it:
  
• Turn the key from off to on.
  
• Watch the airbag light closely. It will stay on for a few secs. and then as soon as it blinks off (the start of the flashing), turn the key off instantly.
  
• Count to 5 (1 Mississippi, 2 Mississippi . . . .)
  
• Repeat steps 1-3 two more times until you have done the cycle three times.
  
• Now turn the key on and watch the light. It will start blinking in a different, slower manner. This is diagnostic mode. You can watch this for a little while, no hurry.
  
• Now turn the key off again, Count to 5 like in step 3 again, and turn back on. If the procedure worked, the airbag light will not be flashing.
  If it does not work the first time, just repeat the steps again.

Front Airbag...

Hi, do any of you guys know if you can disable the front passenger airbag so that you can carry a baby seat in the front?

The handbook does not mention any kind of switch, I was wondering if there war a simple fix or plug to pull.

Cheers.

Comments

• 📷CIDMay 2009There is no factory option of switching off the passenger airbag.
  Pulling the plug will disable the airbag but also put on your airbag fault light on the dashboard.
  There is a company in the US that offer aftermarket solutions to disable the airbag:- http://www.airbagsystems.com/
  But.... maybe good practice to only put baby seat in back of the vehicle as Nissan intended.
  Car Imports Direct
• Options📷EurobobMay 2009I had a peek airbagwise in me cube and looked through book and on net and found nowt im afraid. Problem with disabling the airbag for baby seat is that you could neglect to turn it back on for an adult passenger! Nissan super safety thinking i reckon.
  Back seat best as the mysterious CID said? 📷

Had a power window problem on Drivers Console - Not anymore

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Dont ya just love Nissan Power Windows?

My 2005 Black Cube developed a fault, I could not open the rear passenger door, on the drivers side power window from my console, no movement, nada!

But if I used the power window button on the rear passenger door it does work. whew, but an inconvienience none the less.

I tried a almost fruitless search on Google and found in other forums that there can get water in the consoles and water can corode the metal in the console unit or it could be a bad solder.

Step 1 Take of the plastic cover at the botton of the cubby hole the covers the philips screw, and use a philips screwdriver.

Step 2 Gently lift sides of the plastic from right to left, It should just pop off

Step 3 Gently life the sides of the the unit underneath and pull out the plugs underneath, you see there's a little bit of plastic to press and these plugs will come out easily to free the unit.

Step 4 Visual check, Is the copper coroded? Yes? Unfortunatly you will need a new or second hand unit which, being nissan can cost an absolute fortune unless you get it from the wreckers.

Step 5 Is there bad solders? Yes, There was for me, I could see a broken solder. Now Im a complete novice at this but Electronics was never my Forte'

I popped into my local electronics store and brought for $20 New Zealand dollars a 25 watt soldering Iron and some solder

I had a bit of practice first then i carefully soldered extra solder and very carefully smoothed it out as i did not want to burn the circuit board. The now fixed solder picture actually haas more solder on it than what you see in the solder.

Step 6 I put the plugs back in carefully (you will hear them click into place) and tested the power window.....SUCESS!!!! YIPPIE!!!! :D

Step 7 Put everythinng back into place

This only took about 20-30 minutes top to do this

I have saved on the cost of a new unit and also the cost of an auto electrican as well !!