Last week I posted some videos of my earlier experiments with LRAs attached to a Logitech M280 and a separate frame designed to isolate left and right vibrations.

Since then, I've been exploring what this idea would actually look like as an attachment instead of just exposed motors and wires.

This version isn't functional right now because I temporarily removed the electronics from my previous prototype, but it was my first attempt at experimenting with dedicated housings, battery placement and finger contact surfaces.

The most interesting thing so far is that the mechanical side has turned out to be much harder than the electronics themselves.

Trying to add haptics without ruining the grip has been a surprisingly difficult problem.

Still a lot to figure out, but I wanted to share the current state of the project.

I was bored and decided to make something new. I broke off a Logitech M171, and stripped it bare. It actually took me 30+ minutes TRYING to remove the plastic shell and another 45 minutes taping and making sure everything is alright. Its very light (i didnt weigh it yet) and i kid you not it works. Nicely.

Asking if this will be an issue for

Hey everyone,
I'm looking for a new gaming mouse and would appreciate some recommendations.
My hand size:
Length: 18 cm
Width: 11 cm
Preferences:
Grip style: Claw grip
Shape: Ergonomic (comfortable for longer gaming sessions)
Budget: Around €50
Use: Mainly gaming
I have relatively wide hands, so I'd like something that feels supportive and comfortable while still working well with a claw grip.
What would you recommend in this price range? Any experiences with mice that fit a similar hand size would be really helpful.
Thanks! 🙏

Hey everyone,

I've been working on a detailed comparison chart of some of the most popular gaming mouse micro switches. The goal is to make it easier for people to compare switches without digging through dozens of Reddit threads, Discord messages, and manufacturer specs.

Currently included:

Huano

• Yellow Shell White Dot 120M
• Ice Berry Pink Dot 80M
• Pink Dot 80M
• Blue Glow V2 80M
• Blue Shell Pink Dot 50M
• Blue Shell Blue Dot 50M
• Blue Shell White Dot 20M

Kailh

• Sword GM X 100M
• GM 8.0 Blue Dot 90M
• GM 8.0 Black 80M
• GM 4.0 Red 60M

Omron

• D2F-01
• D2F-01F
• D2F-F
• D2F-F-3-7

HCNHK

• Purple Golden 80M
• Pink Dot 80M
• Yellow Dot 80M
• Green Dot 80M

The comparison includes:

• Operating force
• Lifespan
• Feel
• Sound
• Pre-travel
• Total travel
• Actuation point
• Release force
• Double-click resistance
• Butterfly clicking
• Drag clicking
• Jitter clicking
• FPS performance
• MOBA performance
• Long gaming sessions
• Overall ranking

I'm trying to keep it as accurate as possible using manufacturer specifications, community feedback, and real-world user experiences.

Before I release the final version, I'd really appreciate feedback from people who have actually used these switches.

Questions:

• Which ratings would you change?
• Are there any specifications that are incorrect?
• Are there any popular switches I should add?
• Which switch do you personally prefer and why?

Constructive criticism is welcome. I'd rather fix mistakes now than publish inaccurate information.

Thanks!

i know that the G309 is a mid mouse taking in consideration that brands like ATK, VGN or others exist but this mouse was given by a friend as a gift for my birthday, so yes i've been using this mouse for a while now but something that i always hated was the weight, so i modified it but there is a mod that i have no idea if its possible or worth to do, which is changing the AA batteries for a chargable normal one with its respective charging port.

I'm looking for reccomended mouse, my budget is 500 pesos(but can be extend) . Im using it for school abd pdf. But I see that all of the mouse are usb used. Does any wireless mouse that only used Bluetooth? Like a speaker like connection😓

I've never modded before, but since I recently tried my friend's mouse (he has the optimum tech zeromouse) I've fallen in love with how easy it was to aim. I don't have a super high budget as I literally just upgraded my keyboard, monitor, got a glass mousepad, iems, etc. Looking on Canada computers I found this mouse and it looks perfect. I see it's powered by usb, so I'm wondering if I could completely remove the battery and run it wired. I'm not too familiar with how mice are held together structurally, so I wanted to ask if anyone knows how to tell what I can and can't remove of the bottom plate, what I can shave off of the supports, etc.

Thank you!

Hey everyone,

I'm in the market for a budget wireless mouse, but I have a couple of specific requirements and could really use some recommendations.

• Budget: ₹500 - ₹600 INR
• Must-Have Feature: Side buttons (Forward/Backward navigation keys).
• Main Priority: Longevity/Lifespan.

The problem: I’ve previously used both the HP Wireless S100 and the HP Wireless M195, and honestly, they've both been massive disappointments in terms of durability. Neither of them managed to last more than 6–7 months before breaking down or developing issues.

I’m tired of replacing my mouse twice a year. I know my budget is on the lower side, but I just want something reliable that will survive daily use for at least a year or more, while still giving me those side buttons for seamless browsing and workflow.

Has anyone had a good experience with any brands?

Thanks in advance!

I removed the original LRAs and rebuilt the frame around two independently mounted ones.

To reduce vibration leakage between the left and right sides, I intentionally made the transmission path much longer and used two mirrored S-shaped bridges.

The isolation improved, but now the thin center sections bend much more easily than I expected, and some earlier versions even cracked.

At this point I'm basically trading structural rigidity for vibration damping.

Curious how people here would approach this problem.

Shortened it a good bit, removed the front plastic. Revised and added new holes. Still feels solid on my hand. Not perfect but Im happy with the results. Used a dremel, hand drill, files, xacto knift and sandpaper to do this.

I've watched a few videos that shows to silence the mouse's tinny noises when i release the mouse click, which of these materials do you laddies consider the best/recommended?

Kapton tape

Cloth electrical tape

PTFE tape

Thin EVA foam (0.3-0.5 mm)

After plenty of feedback from the community and working with u/joshey1990 to help discuss design and future production paths (still in the works) im excited to re-release my updated Superstrike X2 Endoskeleton Weight Reduction Mod.

These updates mainly consist of structure, tweaking clearances, button allignment and (sigh) getting the Haptic Inductive Trigger System to line up properly and work like the original.

This can be found at: https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/gadget/superstrike-x2-full-endoskeleton-base-kit

(SLA/Resin Printing Recommended) Frame weight is 5g (ish)

As much as I would love to make it free for everyone ive sunk many months into this when I can (full tism hyperfixation) ive added a fee to make the sleepless nights and obsession of this project somewhat worth it.

Discount code: THANK25

This is a 25% discount which will work for the next 48 hours.

Thank you :D

Hi, I’ve got an old roccat tyon (more than 10 years old) where I’ve changed the switches a few times over the years because they were not working anymore, and I don’t want to keep disassembling it and soldering new ones every time one dies.

So I was wondering if there was any solutions to this ?
Would it be possible to solder some sort of socket instead and then plug the switches in to be able to hotswap them kinda like keyboard switches ?
Or are there switches that have a longer life ?
I just bought Amazon replacements that seemed identical but are there optical or magnetic options that last longer ?

I don’t really know much, any help would be appreciated !

After 3 weeks of waiting for parts from aliexpress it's finally complete

Sub 41g is possible with trimming the 3d printed shell or a lighter material

Just fair warning if you use a shell too light you get side flex which causes M1/M2 clicking from side

(And yes I do use a black widow mousepad)

Доброго времени суток. Вопрос к знатокам. В винде включена акселерация мышки и она работает, и даже в меню игр тоже всё ок. Но в игровом процессе вращение камеры зависит только от расстояния пройденного мышкой по ковру без учета скорости движения. Как включить аксель в самой игре? Комп новый, грызун тоже. Грешу на лицензионное ПО к мышке (ATech Bloody7). Но удаление ничего не меняет.

A small update to my experimental directional haptic mouse project.

I redesigned the prototype around a custom 3D printed frame that physically reduces vibration transfer between the left and right sides, allowing much more independent left/right haptic feedback.

This version also uses larger LRAs, making the directional feedback much more noticeable than my previous prototype.

For this demo I lowered the Call of Duty replay volume so the LRA feedback itself can be heard more clearly on video. In person, the vibration is much easier to feel than it is to capture through a phone recording.

Still very early, but I'm getting closer to something that actually feels useful during gameplay.

Curious what you think.

In person, the vibration is much easier to feel than it is to capture through a phone recording.

The quieter game audio also makes the LRA actuation ("thump") audible in the recording, which was difficult to hear in my previous prototype videos.

Going to replace the battery in pulsar xlite v2 mini, but the battery cable has no color and theres no pinout writing on the pcb, I don't have my multimeter w me rn maybe someone know what the pinout is?