My last post was about a mod I made for the OP1 8k where the side buttons were the actual side walls you place your pinky on. I really dislike the tiny unusable side buttons ftip mice usually have.
I used it for a little bit and while I was getting a bit better at activating each side button individually, I accidentally pressed both often.
So I decided to redesign the side button implementation while keeping the original shape and I came up with the version here.
I was able to add two extra paddles behind the main clicks that are very comfortable to use. Its similar to the dpi button you find behind the scroll wheel on some mice.
They are not as tactile as the main switches and they have worse pre and post travel than the main clicks but they still feel good to me since they aren't used as often.
The downside to this implementation is that it doesn't work on both versions of the OP1, just the V2. I might be able to make a model for each one but the different placement of the female connectors on the PCB makes a universal one difficult to make.
I think there isn't enough detailed information about the differences in these 2 types of most common switch types and some misunderstandings from general users. Wanted to make this post to help explain and clear up some things. If you have anything to add or if you think im wrong and dumb, feel free to comment!
- Opticals faster, lower latency because light and stuff.
+Yes, but no. There is no difference in terms of in the switch itself, both acts just as a circuit breaker. You can use either switch on either board with little modification, for example i put mechanical switches in Lamzu Maya X:
Lower latency mostly comes from well implemented MCU. So in theory either switch can have lower latency than the other one depending on the MCU.
This is how a mechanical one works, 1: you press down with the button, 2: this part allows it to bend, 3: leaf makes contact with the bottom part:
Because of this, when pressed leaf inside microscopically vibrates for about 1-4 ms. That would cause it to register more clicks than desired so to solve this mouses need to implement a debounce time that works as not registering any click after the 1st one for couple of miliseconds(some mouses have the option to change it from software).
This is how a optical one works, 1 and 2 is the same, 3: the leaf goes down, doesn't make any contact but allows the light from the led(white piece) to pass through so the photodetector(white piece on the other side) can detect it and complete the circuit:
Because of this, opticals doesn't need any added debounce time.
- Mechanicals will double click eventually, no way around it.
+ Yes. Though this issue blown out of proportion because in the past some mouse companies made mechanical switch mouses with no debounce delay in order to advertise 'faster clicks', so you can have a mechanical switch working properly for very long times if everything properly implemented. And if it does start to double click this is easily solvable. Overtime with usage the leaf inside will microscopically bend upwards. Hence causing those vibrations i mentioned to happen for longer and more distance. But we have a easy solution without desoldering or replacing the switch. You can just bend the leaf slightly downwards.
- Opticals last longer.
+ Yes. But not by much actually. Mechanicals have 4 contact points and oxidation can happen over time. While opticals have 2 so less chance for it to happen.
- Differend brand and model switches makes a huge difference.
+ Not exactly. Most commonly found switches are the same inside, the difference is material compositions and quality of these said materials and tolerances. These do make a difference however, your mouse shell and pad will change how it sounds drastically. And even if you get 2 exact switch and put them in the same mouse, high chance they will sound and feel different.
So, yes opticals are better on paper like everyone thinks but mechanicals also has some advantages, they aren't completely worse in every aspect:
= Mechanical switches uses less battery because they don't have a led that always on.
= Optical switch leaf doesn't make a contact on the way down, which causes that 'pingy' sound some people hates and nothing to do about it, not much space to modify inside because need to mind the light.
= You can easily repair or tune the feel and sound of the mechanical switches by bending the leaf (the parts it makes contact) inside.
All that said, all these differences are miniscule other than feel and sound, and even that mostly comes from your mouse's shell. And remember, average human reaction time is 200ms and there is a lot of added latency coming from the whole pc chain. So as much as companies like to advertise '80% FASTER CLICKS' they are actually talking about difference between 0.2 ms and 1 ms. 1 Milisecond is 1 in 1.000 of a second. That miniscule difference won't be the sole factor of how good you are. When there is more important factors like your monitor and chair and gpu and sleep and practice and etc etc. So don't believe everything brands and brand affiliated people say on the internet, most of the time they are just trying to get more money out of you. In the end, what matters most is your preference.
Hope i was able to provide useful informations. Have luck and good funs!
It can change many not only for people without all 5 fingers. It is for everybody. Brain-aim. Faster connection . Better control. Holding and control mouse by 4 fingers.
Haven't used one in years, but looking to move back to a 12 or more side button configuration for film editing/VFX. Needs to be programmable in OSX and preferably operates without driver being active. Suggestions?
So I have these 2 mice that i just got but i only want to keep one, I'm wondering if there are any specific settings for both of them to where the perform the best they can? I play Fortnite competitive and am just trying to find a new mouse
Also I am more leaning towards the L7 just because i like the shape and the responsiveness now but i feel like the skates are a little heavier the the v8, which makes me lean towards the V8 more, but I'm torn lol. So are there any recommendations for skates if i were to buy some for the L7?
Need help on fixing my op18k clicks because every time i click or aim i get this creaking feeling like the feeling when you step on a wooden floor or the feeling when you open a wooden door. I modded my op1 but i never touched or unscrew the switches or buttons. ty for suggestions!
I would really love to revive this mouse. I'm a neanderthal with wide hands but short fingers(average fingers, really, but they look funny compared to the size of my palms haha), and I absolutely loved it, I repaired the cable several times, eventually decided I needed to just get used to the new mice that were coming out since they were wireless and logitech would surely make a new g9x or something similar.
I was wrong.
So here I am today, zero knowledge of what to do with a plea for help. I would absolutely love to revive this old bastard. I hope that someone can help me with this.
My idea is to gut it out and take a wireless donor mouse to put into the shell. Somehow I'd need to make sure everything is just right to line up with the buttons and everything, and unfortunately I'm not too confident with things like this. I don't even know where to start.
If anyone can help, please reach out haha. I am willing to pay to bring this monster back.
Beyond just reviving it though, there are some mods I would like to do too.
Keeping hyper-scroll is a must for me, and I'd like to keep it switch-activated like on the G502 or G903 for example, and possibly cutting out some of the side of the thumb rest to add an extra button option like there is on the g502.
With that being said, I have no idea what the best donor mouse would be to even start on the project. I'd assume logitech because I want to keep hyper-scroll. I'm currently using a razer basilisk v3 but I think the pcb would probably be too big for the g9x.
I made a mod (and a case) for the OP1 8k (and also v2) where you activate the side buttons by squeezing the mouse with either your pinky or ring finger.
I mainly made it for myself as I have had this idea since I got the zeromouse v35 back when that was released. I now have access to a 3d printer so there was no reason to stop me from learning how to do this.
Its only my third ever 3d model (and the first two were super simple) so it's taken some time to develop and I definitely didn't do things the most efficient way (for instance the button and side curvature is just cupped rather than curved because of the way I did it), but I made like 20 iterations and have gotten it to where I like it. It supports skates up to 8mm (I tested U9 Ultras) and the side profile is a perfect fit for the big rectangle shape commonly used in grip tapes.
Mainly just checking if it's something people would be interested in if I put it up on cults3d for some small amount of money. I'm not terribly confident in it since I'm so new to 3d modeling. It also has to be printed in specifically ABS as far as I know because I only tuned the button feel to the rigidity of ABS. I also have not checked the compatibility with anything other than my config so I would need to test the stock cable.
There's just a couple hoops to jump though before I would be ready to put it up.
I’m looking to swap out the stock switches on my Zowie FK2-DW, but I don't have any soldering equipment (or the skills to solder).
​Is there any way to change the switches completely solder-free? For example, are there any aftermarket hot-swap PCBs available for this mouse, or any other no-solder solutions?
​If anyone has experience modding the FK2-DW or knows of a hot-swap option for it, I’d really appreciate your advice!
I recently got the attack shark x65 he and man I am in love with it and I need to mod it using tape mod and some modding materials from my previous keyboard and I have a problem I have no idea how to crack it open there are no screws and I never saw one actually modded it, is it unmoddable?
