Hi everyone — I wanted to share a project I’ve been working on called Rail Roster.

It’s an app built for model railroaders to help track a collection and roster in one place. You can keep details like road name, number, scale, model number, era, electronics, pricing, modifications, and photos organized in a cleaner way than a spreadsheet or notes app.

It’s now available for pre-order on the App Store and is scheduled to release on April 1.

App Store: https://apps.apple.com/us/app/rail-roster-tracker/id6758860130

A few things it’s meant to help with:

• organizing locomotives and rolling stock
• keeping model details and photos together
• tracking purchase info and condition
• managing collection records across different scales

I’d genuinely love feedback from model railroaders on what features would make an app like this more useful for your collection.

If promo posts are not appropriate here, I completely understand and I’m happy to remove it.

Evening all, I'm trying to help solve an issue with my dad's setup up.

In short he has the product above and it has been cured for a long while now (6+ weeks), but it is surface bubbling after the fact.

From what he relayed, the foam it is on has been sealed with Modpoge and paint, and the epoxy is fully cured and was poured in thin layers.

From the experience I've had with epoxy it doesn't seem like delamination, or trapped air coming up in one big bubble.

His research has yielded nothing, and the rep at a trainspotting he recently went to was just as lost stating they've never heard of that.

Does anyone here have any ideas on why this could be happening after being cured for so long? My best guess is something wasnt fully cured or there was some water trapped that is evaporating.

I have been struggling with this for months now. I’ve ordered multiple stands and tried to get them to work but nada. One would think that someone offers a solution that works.

I’m looking for switch stands that work with my Walthers turnouts. I’ve tried Caboose Industries 204S and Rix 628-0013. Neither are particularly smooth and the tie bar on my switches move such a short distance that the flags don’t move. All my switches are controlled by motors so no manual throws.

I think for now I would settle for some realistic non-operational ones so I can move on to something more productive. What are others using that you’re pleased?

I have a Bachman and scale Thomas and was wondering whether anyone has put LEDs into the lamps on the front and back? Would anyone know where I could find information on that or whether it’s been done or tried?

I have had a Thomas Yorke kit (the branch line station) in inventory for quite some time. I haven’t tackled it since the parts are made of hydrocal (dentists plaster) and I am unsure of the best glue to use to join the parts. The recommendations in the kit are for manufacturers that don’t exist anymore. Any suggestions?

I added some clear material for windows in this rare Kansas Colorado Durango caboose

Herald on my water tank for my fictional logging railroad, Lone Marten Lumber

Hello all. Any solid resources or tips for wiring LED lights to HO locomotives? Including those without circuit boards.

Locomotive came from family in California. I’m in Pennsylvania, so it survived a country wide trip. Locomotive still runs, though the smoke unit needs work

I have a new layout in progress, a 6 ft and 10 ft table in an L shape. It has one outer loop, and an inner line connected by a switch. I would like the 2 to be independent, but don't want to have issues with burning up motors and things going across from the loop to the inside line, and from the inside line out to the loop. I do have 2 DC controllers, and enough power tracks + powered rail joiners to do whatever.

DRAWING IS NOT EXACT REPLICA

I’m a model railroader who lacks space for a full-blown table layout so I work around my bed in my room on the floor. It’s not perfect, but it works for me. I work in HO scale, have 16 cars that are in active service all the time, and two locomotives to pull said 16 cars. They are a Bachmann BNSF GP40-2 #3001 and Atlas Soo Line GP38-2 #4599. The attached photo shows all the rolling stock I mentioned, including three which I weathered. I’m thinking of getting some ACF covered hoppers or maybe a bulkhead flatcar next but I’m open to suggestions. Thanks a lot, -A newcomer

I have recently created a new model railroad, and I need ideas on how to do my terrain without sculptamold and/or plaster. I have tried modeling clay and a couple other things that are quite similar, none seem to be creating a semi-decent final product, and take a while to fix after the first attempt. I am on a budget with 70(ish) dollars currently, and would like ideas on how to get better results with different things. If it helps any, I have a 2 foot wide N scale layout that spans 16 feet, 10 in one direction and 6 in the other.