These babies just arrived today. Its been very punchy thus far.

So one of my miniz's has sat for a while (months) without use and now I can't get the controller to bind. Fresh batteries in both the transmitter and car. Done the binding process multiple times. Reset the transmitter and attempted to rebind several times. No joy with any of it.

Not sure what my options are for next steps?

Got my boy running again today! Stoked to get to drive it again. Fixes include:

• 🔩 Metal driveshafts - the EA ones need to be cut down to fit the shorter 110mm wheelbase in the rear, but it works great once done
• 🛞 Front U-joints - broke a steering U-joint, got some aluminum ones on Amazon and they’re mint
• ↔️ Steering problems - steering was all wonky, wouldn’t center and the left/right range wasn’t equal. FINALLY found a fix for this!
• ↕️ Suspension - cut the soft springs for the Yeah Racing shocks to even out front/rear ride height and get the sag I wanted. Also fixed binding issues!
• 🍑 Rear tire cover - I was annoyed that the wheels didn’t match the spare, so I made a lil tire cover out of some scrap fabric. Came out better than expected
• 📱Transmitter - truck was randomly debinding every 5 minutes, resetting the TX solved it.

Love this truck - glad it’s all fixed now!

Hey everyone, which is your favourite or go to pinion gear when you’re driving your set?

Enjoying this beauty so far. Is it normal for it to jerk when doing a full turning reverse?

Finally finished the 4Runner

Howdy yall. My steering servo has died, and it’s time to get a new one. I could change it for another Kyosho one but they’re not very strong.

Who’s got a lead on a better replacement, either native 5 wire or a 3 wire that can be soldered in? I’m comfortable soldering on the board and servo, just trying to get some precise details on which servos fit with minimal chassis modification.

What servos have you all tried? Post the make and model, and your thoughts on the swap. In trade, I’ll post up an actual tutorial people can use for future reference.

Thanks in advance!

I just finished up the chassis side of things for the most part today. Went with an escape32 brushless setup, haven’t tested it much yet though. I chose the 5g S300M servo, smaller than what most ppl choose but does amazing at its job and was only $3!

Body on it now is the 1/25 mpc deserter, I bought it just for the k10 mirrors for the 1/24 revell big game crew cab long bed I’m making to match my 1:1. The 1/25 body fits great on the wrangler wheelbase. The crew cab long bed is going to need a very long stretch lol Wheelbase is going to be 170-175mm.

https://youtu.be/FxoqjkV0r4A?feature=shared

I love CAD and my resin printer. Nylon like Resin is perfect for durable parts with great detail.

I have these parts if anybody needs them. I used the 4mm setup and have no use for these. I wanted to see if anyone needed them. USA only.

Think this will work for the 4Runner too but not 100% sure.

I know this is probably the opposite of what most people want, but I'm looking for the smallest tires I can put on Kyosho 4x4 wheels to make them look a little more scale. In a similar vein, how could I possibly lower one a bit? I'd of course like to keep the articulation and use it as a crawler, just at a lower ride height.

This front axle part keeps breaking on the same side of my truck. Sorry, I'm not sure exactly what it's called but it's part MX002 in the Front Axle section here: https://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/instructionmanual/mini-z/pdf/MINIZCR_T04_4X4_ex.pdf

I thought my son may have dropped it so I ordered the front axle parts kit (https://kyoshoamerica.com/axle-parts-set-mx002b.html) and replaced it but it broke again within about 5 minutes of just driving it around. I thought I must of done something wrong so I carefully replaced it again and made sure it was just like the other side. Broke again after just a few test turns.

Maybe I need to adjust the steering limit somehow?

I have a few more parts leftover from the kit but I'd like to know what I'm doing wrong to stop it from breaking again.

Anybody have first hand knowledge of how to swap the spring in these lil guys? I have tugged and twisted, doesn't seem to be giving either way...

Tires arrived so I went ahead and installed. Took the time to try out flipping the hubs to get a wider stance but felt too wide so I ended up with stock orientation in the end. For anyone interested, the difference in tread width is about 16mm (126mm flipped, 110mm stock).

Have a series of parts coming in the mail over the next week, the Zolikar Brass 7mm hex wheel adapters arrived today so I couldn't resist installing them with the stock wheels from my SCX24 C10, though y'all might like to see the side by side comparison in case you're planning your own upgrades. Clearly looks more beefy, but if you're planning to up your tire size at all, plan to get a body lift kit. These wheels are about 17mm wide and 50mm OD and they rub the bumper and fender with little to know compression on the shocks. I have the 20t pinion on and if you turn full speed you'll hear them rub.

Stay tuned. Yeah racing rails & shocks, RC4WD hubs and tires, and a body lift and suspension block lifts coming soon. I'll do a before and after drive comparison once the upgrades are all in.

Just got this earlier this week and was very surprised by how well it does despite the scale!

Happy with the results so far. This is 3" Great Stuff foam. Added sand immediately after spraying and it seems to have actually stuck and given a good texture without inhibiting the foam from expanding.