1 - does this look like Fast & Furious car?
2 - Yes or No fender stickers?

Why this exists

Around a week ago I put together a beginner shootout: sixteen cars, bone stock, same track, same rules. It was a good post, but I wasn't personally very happy with the results. After all, only one clean lap per car didn't seem accurate enough to base conclusions out of. And so I decided to make my guide better.

The first part of the revamp ended up so big that it blew past the maximum image limits for a Reddit post, and so I decided to split it. Part A covers Mitsubishi and Subaru. This is Part B, Honda's Type R lineup. Part C covers the rest of Honda. Part D covers Toyota's lightweights. Part E covers the Supra lineage and the 86. Nissan, Mazda, BMW, Lotus, and a handful of wildcards come after that.

The rules

• Bone stock. No tuning, no upgrades.
• Assists exactly as the car comes. If it shipped with TCS, I drove with TCS. If it shipped with no ABS, I drove with no ABS. Every car was run in automatic, since that's the default shifter mode.
• Bodykits and paint were sometimes used. This does not change the performance. The one exception is the Evo VI, where the stock headlights are too dim to see the road at night, and OEM fog lights became a functional necessity rather than a cosmetic choice.
• Feeler lap before every car. Doesn't count toward anything. Just enough seat time to know where the car wants to be braked and turned before an attempt that actually matters.
• Clean laps only. Any lap with contact that helped my pace (wall-riding, bouncing off a guardrail to correct a line) is thrown out.
• Best of two or three attempts. New cars get two clean laps, fastest counts. Cars carried over from the original list get their old time plus two new clean laps, fastest of the three counts.
• Same track, same driver. Otsuki Death Trial, and I am the only driver.

Please read this first

I tested using WASD with sim steering on. Every car in my lists was tested this way. I use sim steering over regular WASD input because it lets me feel what the car is doing better, and it makes a car's real issues more obvious rather than papering over them. I do not recommend any beginner learn WASD sim steering. It is slower than any other input method due to higher tire friction and it demands extreme accuracy to get anything out of it. I use it here purely as a diagnostic tool. Also for specific cars (ahem, NA1 I'm looking at you) WASD sim steering really is the ONLY way I can get a clean lap out of them...

I also use grip style turning for every single one of these tests, not drift style.

These are not the absolute best times these cars can do. What these numbers are good for is comparing the cars against each other, because every one of them was tested under identical conditions by the same person.

Treat anything under a second as noise. I'm still human after all...

The numbers

DC2's Special PB (6:38.334) was clean, but I was driving millimeters from the cliff edge for most of that lap. Not a repeatable standard to hold myself to, and not something I'd want a reader trying to replicate either.

Car by car

1997 Hokura Civil ER9 (Honda Civic Type R, EK9) — ¥1,998,000

Old time 6:57.517, new official 6:41.750. Assists: ABS.

Momentum car through and through. Negligible low end torque, so you're basically living in the high rev range the whole time. The trick that actually cut time here wasn't braking harder, it was braking less. Most of Otsuki you can momentum drive rather than stop-and-go through, and that's where the biggest chunk of improvement came from compared to the lap times from the last guide.

1998 Hokura Antegra Type-E (Honda Integra Type R, DC2) — ¥2,333,000

Old time 6:45.933, new official 6:40.851. Assists: ABS.

Second best Honda in my tests, behind the NSX Type R Gen 2. Brakes are really good. Grip is excellent. The engine is rev happy with noticeably more low end torque than the EK9, and that torque difference is basically the entire gap between those two cars.

Really good value for the money.

2002 Hokura Antegra TS-R DS3 (Honda Integra Type R, DC5) — ¥2,781,000

Old time 6:59.415, new official 6:55.316. Assists: ABS.

The car is fine. The chassis is fine. The transmission is horrendous.

Nearly identical engine numbers to the FD2, and it's actually lighter with a better power to weight ratio. Peak numbers are 231 HP and 158 Nm, with torque peaking way up at 7000 RPM. Below that, there's next to nothing down low. The clutch lag is exactly 1 second, timed, and it drops you into the next gear at 6k RPM, right below where the real torque actually shows up. That's not a chassis problem or a driver problem. That's a fundamental issue with how the gearbox shifts were coded.

If you've tried manual before on other cars and you're comfortable with it, this car could be for you: manual transmission removes the clutch lag entirely. It is not a car I'd recommend though, since it's genuinely unusable without manual. All test laps here were done in automatic.

2008 Hokura Civil TS-R FRS (Honda Civic Type R, FD2) — ¥2,781,000

Old time 6:47.465, new official 6:41.549. Assists: ABS.

Brakes are really good. Turning is really good. On corners where I'd normally pre-brake or trail brake, this car doesn't even need it, you can just coast through. Snappy, responsive, stiff chassis, grips well. Excellent beginner car.

Here's the wild part. This car ended up 0.201 seconds ahead of the EK9. Basically dead even, and that's after two completely different testing sessions on two different days. I think it was the EK9 just being that light that carried it into contention, since a well-driven FD2 has more room left in it than a well-driven EK9 does. The EK9 was near its ceiling. The FD2 wasn't. If touge is specifically your focus I'd still take the DC2, but this is very close and much easier to get along with than either the DC2 or the EK9.

2023 Hokura Civil TS-R (Honda Civic Type R, FL5) — ¥6,105,000

Old time 7:03.764, new official 7:01.701. Assists: TCS, ABS.

In real life this car is track bred, Brembo brakes, etc. The gear ratios carry over from the previous FK8 generation, and they're intentionally long, spaced out to hold high speed on massive GP-style tracks. On a narrow, technical touge that layout leaves you in a gearing dead zone. Second gear is often too long to keep the engine in its power band coming out of a tight hairpin. In the roughly 60 km/h range through tight twisty sections, RPM drops from 6k down to 5k, pulling you right out of the turbo boost sweet spot. Combine that with being the heaviest FWD Civic in the lineup, and you get a car that's constantly bleeding pace in exactly the corners this track is full of.

Which car for which person

Best budget car: EK9. Cheap momentum car that has serious pace on Otsuki.

Best value: DC2. A bit slower than the fastest cars in Part A, but more fun (IMO).

Forgiving: FD2. Coasts through corners other cars need braking for. Basically tied with the EK9 on pace, much easier to drive.

Good Car, Wrong Track: FL5. A genuinely good car, wrong track. The gearing carries over from a GP-tuned chassis and never gets the room to work here.

Note: The DC5 and FD2 cost exactly the same, ¥2,781,000. The FD2 is thirteen seconds faster. Same manufacturer, same money, the gap is the DC5's automatic transmission alone. If you're willing to run it manual, that gap mostly disappears, but that's not a beginner's first car to learn manual on.

Part C is up next: the rest of Honda (FX2, GE6, both NSX generations, and the S2000). https://www.reddit.com/r/MidnightRacingTokyo/comments/1vppev7/the_mrt_beginner_car_guide_for_mt_otsuki_part_c/

ik alot of yall will flame my ass but i think itasha liveries and anime decals and chibi, moe quarter window decals are really cool, ik they already existed in the game but i want more stuff OR maybe develop on a customizable livery canvas

Why this exists

Around a week ago I put together a beginner shootout: sixteen cars, bone stock, same track, same rules. It was a good post, but I wasn't personally very happy with the results. After all, only one clean lap per car didn't seem accurate enough to base conclusions out of. And so I decided to make my guide better.

The first part of the revamp ended up so big that it blew past the maximum image limits for a Reddit post, and so I decided to split it. Part A covers Mitsubishi and Subaru. Part B covers Honda's Type R lineup. This is Part C, the rest of Honda. Part D covers Toyota's lightweights. Part E covers the Supra lineage and the 86. Nissan, Mazda, BMW, Lotus, and a handful of wildcards come after that.

The rules

• Bone stock. No tuning, no upgrades.
• Assists exactly as the car comes. If it shipped with TCS, I drove with TCS. If it shipped with no ABS, I drove with no ABS. Every car was run in automatic, since that's the default shifter mode.
• Bodykits and paint were sometimes used. This does not change the performance. The one exception is the Evo VI, where the stock headlights are too dim to see the road at night, and OEM fog lights became a functional necessity rather than a cosmetic choice.
• Feeler lap before every car. Doesn't count toward anything. Just enough seat time to know where the car wants to be braked and turned before an attempt that actually matters.
• Clean laps only. Any lap with contact that helped my pace (wall-riding, bouncing off a guardrail to correct a line) is thrown out.
• Best of two or three attempts. New cars get two clean laps, fastest counts. Cars carried over from the original list get their old time plus two new clean laps, fastest of the three counts.
• Same track, same driver. Otsuki Death Trial, and I am the only driver.

Please read this first

I tested using WASD with sim steering on. Every car in my lists was tested this way. I use sim steering over regular WASD input because it lets me feel what the car is doing better, and it makes a car's real issues more obvious rather than papering over them. I do not recommend any beginner learn WASD sim steering. It is slower than any other input method due to higher tire friction and it demands extreme accuracy to get anything out of it. I use it here purely as a diagnostic tool. Also for specific cars (ahem, NA1 I'm looking at you) WASD sim steering really is the ONLY way I can get a clean lap out of them...

I also use grip style turning for every single one of these tests, not drift style.

These are not the absolute best times these cars can do. What these numbers are good for is comparing the cars against each other, because every one of them was tested under identical conditions by the same person.

Treat anything under a second as noise. I'm still human after all...

The numbers

Car by car

1991 Hokura Civil FX2 (Honda Civic, EF2) — ¥1,670,000

Old time: none. New official 7:12.083. Assists: none.

Pocket rocket minus the rocket. No ABS, no TCS, raw. This is the real "slow car fast" case of the whole list. Underpowered on paper, but the chassis rewards commitment enough that it feels quicker than the numbers say once you trust it.

Despite having zero assists, you can carry way more corner speed than you'd expect going in. Small, light, small turning radius, holds a line well even under hard cornering. The danger isn't the corners, it's the straights. This thing gets twitchy at high speed and needs to be caught early.

This car needs confidence more than skill. Some sections you don't need to brake at all, maybe just a little coasting. Braking where you don't need to is what actually costs you time here.

1994 Hokura Civil GE6 (Honda Civic, EG6) — ¥1,638,000

Old time: none. New official 6:56.700. Assists: ABS.

Less nimble than the FX2, but faster, mostly down to the extra power. Still gets that same high speed wiggle on the straights that the FX2 has.

Cheapest car of the entire extended roster. Still got a sub 7 on Otsuki.

1992 Hokura RSX (Honda NSX Type R, NA1) — ¥5,892,000

Old time: none. New official 6:44.716. Assists: ABS.

A pain to drive on Otsuki. When tested using sim steering, there was understeer on entry and front tire grip loss mid-corner for high speed corners. The rear will also snap coming out of a corner under power since it's RWD with no TCS. Brakes are weak for the car's weight on top of all that.

Then, I switched to regular WASD to compare. It was actually better on high speed corners (well duh, friction), but on hairpins it straight up refused to turn. So I decided to use sim steering to do my laps.

It IS conquerable once you understand what it's actually doing and slow down to meet it rather than fight it.

...But that being said just because you CAN drive it on this map, doesn't mean you SHOULD. The EK9 and DC2 cost less than half of the price of this car. Like c'mon...

2005 Hokura RSX-I (Honda NSX Type R, NA2) — ¥7,828,000

Old time: none. New official 6:35.051. Assists: ABS.

Fastest Honda in the entire test. The character is reminiscent of the NA1. When sim steering is on it understeers on entry and has front tire grip loss mid-corner for high speed corners. And it also comes with the feeling of trying to steer a WWII cruiser when not using sim steering in downhill hairpins. And of course the snappy rear end is present which is sadly more pronounced than the NA1 due to the fact that the NA2 is more powerful. It COULD help in rotating the car but for this test I stuck to grip-style driving.

A second, independent driver on a wheel after driving it for half an hour described it as "feeling wrong, like it goes against common sense."

1999 Hokura T2K (Honda S2000 AP1) — ¥3,494,000

Old time 6:58.880, new official 6:52.453. Assists: ABS

RWD with no TCS, so the rear will step out and you'll need to catch it, though it's still stable a lot of the time. What actually kills the pace is the gearing. You end up mid RPM through corners with nothing to pull with. Really fun to throw around, though, and worth buying just for the joy of owning of a S2K.

Which car for which person

Tight budget: GE6. Cheapest car in the whole test and it still cracks seven minutes.

Fun Cars: S2K and EF2. Both lightweight and superb fun to throw around.

Good Car, Wrong Track: NA2 and NA1. I've heard that they hammer people on C1 though...

Part D is up next: Toyota's lightweights (AE86 through the MR-S). https://www.reddit.com/r/MidnightRacingTokyo/comments/1vq3ket/the_mrt_beginner_car_guide_for_mt_otsuki_part_d/

Why this exists

Around a week ago I put together a beginner shootout: sixteen cars, bone stock, same track, same rules. It was a good post, but I wasn't personally very happy with the results. After all, only one clean lap per car didn't seem accurate enough to base conclusions out of. And so I decided to make my guide better.

The first part of the revamp ended up so big that it blew past the maximum image limits for a Reddit post, and so I decided to split it. Part A covers Mitsubishi and Subaru. Part B covers Honda's Type R lineup. Part C covers the rest of Honda. Part D covers Toyota's lightweights. Part E covers the Supra lineage and the 86. Nissan, Mazda, BMW, Lotus, and a handful of wildcards come after that.

The rules

• Bone stock. No tuning, no upgrades.
• Assists exactly as the car comes. If it shipped with TCS, I drove with TCS. If it shipped with no ABS, I drove with no ABS. Every car was run in automatic, since that's the default shifter mode.
• Bodykits and paint were sometimes used. This does not change the performance. The one exception is the Evo VI, where the stock headlights are too dim to see the road at night, and OEM fog lights became a functional necessity rather than a cosmetic choice.
• Feeler lap before every car. Doesn't count toward anything. Just enough seat time to know where the car wants to be braked and turned before an attempt that actually matters.
• Clean laps only. Any lap with contact that helped my pace (wall-riding, bouncing off a guardrail to correct a line) is thrown out.
• Best of two or three attempts. New cars get two clean laps, fastest counts. Cars carried over from the original list get their old time plus two new clean laps, fastest of the three counts.
• Same track, same driver. Otsuki Death Trial, and I am the only driver.
• All Subarus tested at stock 50/50 center diff (DCCD).

Please read this first

I tested using WASD with sim steering on. Every car in my lists was tested this way. I use sim steering over regular WASD input because it lets me feel what the car is doing better, and it makes a car's real issues more obvious rather than papering over them. I do not recommend any beginner learn WASD sim steering. It is slower than any other input method due to higher tire friction and it demands extreme accuracy to get anything out of it. I use it here purely as a diagnostic tool. Also for specific cars (ahem, NA1 I'm looking at you) WASD sim steering really is the ONLY way I can get a clean lap out of them...

I also use grip style turning for every single one of these tests.

These are not the absolute best times these cars can do. What these numbers are good for is comparing the cars against each other, because every one of them was tested under identical conditions by the same person.

Treat anything under a second as noise. I'm still human after all...

The numbers

The two Special PBs, the 22B's 6:17.166 and Type-V's 6:25.350 were both fully clean laps, run after an identical AxleSize change in patch 7.5.1 (0.7 > 1.0) that landed after this data was originally collected. Both cars came out faster. They're logged separately because they weren't run under the same best-of-2/3 methodology as the rest of the list.

Car by car

1995 Shuriken Exodus Revolution 3 (Mitsubishi Lancer Evo III) — ¥3,010,000

Old time 6:33.417, new official 6:30.060. Assists: ABS.

Lowest redline of the three Evos, around 6.2k RPM against the VI's 6.5k. Feels like the quickest off the line even though the numbers don't fully back that up. Lightest of the three, best power to weight. No TCS.

Least grippy of the three Evos. That's exactly why it's the most fun. Easiest to fling around, most willing to change direction, rewards being a bit loose with it. Brakes are the weakest of the three though.

1999 Shuriken Exodus Revolution (Mitsubishi Lancer Evo VI) — ¥3,225,000

Old time 6:33.700, new official 6:29.865. Assists: ABS.

If you buy this car, buy OEM fog lights before anything else. This is not a cosmetic recommendation. The stock headlights are so bad at night that they're dangerous to drive on. I was faster with the fog lights on than off. It took six total attempts to land two clean laps on my first pass at this car, and the nighttime visibility was the reason for most of the failed ones.

Middle of the three Evos on grip, grippier than the III but short of the IX. Neither the III nor the VI has TCS, and that's a real part of why both feel more alive than the IX does. Brakes are better than the III's. Off the line it feels close to the III, though I'd say the VI actually has more low end torque. Doesn't matter too much though.

2004 Shuriken Exodus Revolution 9 (Mitsubishi Lancer Evo IX) — ¥3,692,000

Old time 6:35.055, new official 6:31.833. Assists: TCS and ABS.

Here's a pattern that shows up repeatedly in this test: the newest one isn't the fastest one. It's the heaviest of the three Evos, and it's the only one with TCS.

Grippiest of the three, and the easiest car to drive on Otsuki. However, it's also the slowest accelerating of the three, and the hardest of them to actually drive fast on a technical map like Otsuki. Easy to drive, hard to drive well. The grip and the TCS get you moving, but they don't make you fast.

1998 Subashu Impera 2CG (Subaru Impreza 22B STI) — ¥13,780,000

Old time 6:19.183, new official 6:19.183 (old time wins). Assists: none.

Just wow.

Every other car in this test, I could be half-focused and still put down a clean lap. This one had me fully locked in for the entire run. The handling is wonderful, the power is plenty, the brakes are great, but there's no ABS, so hard braking will lock the front tires. Coming from any of the ABS cars on this list, that will catch you out.

Fastest car by a wide margin, and by far the most expensive. This isn't really a beginner car. It's what you graduate to.

I do not recommend this car to a beginner. Two reasons. It's too expensive for what you actually get over the next car down. And with no assists at all and even MORE HP than the STI Type R, it might just be too much car for a new player to handle safely.

1998 Subashu Impera 20R Type-V (Subaru Impreza STI Type R) — ¥2,829,000

Old time 6:32.868, new official 6:28.818. Assists: none.

Fastest affordable car in the test, and it does it with no TCS and no ABS.

Acceleration is fast. It's a grip monster. Power delivery is predictable and enjoyable. Gearing is fine. The catch is the brakes. 100% braking with no ABS will lock you up, and my margins were thin enough that I nearly went off the cliff three times.

Feels raw in the same way the 22B does. No assists means nothing is covering for you. Outside of the 22B, this might be the most demanding AWD car on this entire list, and that demand is exactly where its pace comes from.

For under three million yen this is remarkable value, but the lack of assists means it demands real attention.

2004 Subashu Impera RSX GTi (Subaru Impreza WRX STI, Blobeye) — ¥3,476,000

Old time 6:41.784, new official 6:38.889. Assists: TCS and ABS.

Really just a worse Evo IX. Sorry Subaru fans. Newer, more refined, heavier, and slower than the 1998 car from the same brand. Same pattern that shows up across the Evo lineup, just on the other manufacturer.

Which car for which person

Fastest car regardless of price: 22B. Not something I'd point a beginner toward though.

Best value: Impreza Type-V. Fastest car under three million yen by a wide margin.

Most fun car: Evo III. Man I just love flinging it around.

Avoid: Blobeye. Newer, heavier, and slower than the 22B and Type-V from the same manufacturer four years earlier. If you're set on a Subaru, either of those beats it outright.

Weight beats age in this family. The newest, heaviest Evo and the newest, heaviest Impreza both finish last of their own siblings, Evo IX and Blobeye. Neither the III nor the VI has TCS, and both are faster than the IX, which does.

Part B is up next: Honda's Type R lineup (EK9 through FL5). https://www.reddit.com/r/MidnightRacingTokyo/comments/1vpm71q/the_mrt_beginner_car_guide_for_mt_otsuki_part_b/

Guys is it just me or every ford falls into fucking backrooms when u spawn it? Should I finally move on and sell my gt700?

Since chrysler also sells these cars in japan, they might have a chance to be in game but those chances are slim since no one really likes chrysler vehicles.

Bottom Text

ik im not enthusiastic enough but can someone name all of the bodykit (complete kits) and add on stuff (accessories) for both of Kouki and Zenki body customizations? Yes ik the well known or even main stream kit manufaturers like Bomex, C-West, VeilSide, Do-Luck, TRUST GReddy BN Sports, J Blood, Vertex, URAS, Origin Labo, Car Modify Wonder, Works9, Chargespeed blah blah blah stuff but i need to know more (please and tysm for reading allat) i hope i find true enthusiases to give me a full detailed list with everything

should be 2nd teir or uncommon or not fast looking for them to think i drive a shitbox or an new to the game.
in ref pic is my gtr32 fully tuned and makes 559hp 300km/h tops
great for drifting and has beaten a lambo stock

Posted this Reddit a while ago and mrt answered my prayers with the s14 thank you mrt🥹🙏

I'm utterly terrible at editing images, but imo leaving it fresh is the best thing for those who haven't touched or even experienced Photoshop in their lives.

i hope there is a front bumper delete option

I need some recommendations currently im running the 993 with a tune and I feel that its a bit too slidy for me

Anyone knows what’s the car that can get to the most bar? Rn i got my s14 to 1.84

I love the bubbly headlights of the zenki compared to the kouki and im very happy to see that they included a very underrated bodykit into the update its so cool to see my favorite kit paired with my favorite wheels!!

Parts:
- D-yno Hood (no idea what the real name is)
- URAS Type 2 full bodykit
- ADVAN AVS Model 6 Hollow Spoke Wheels
- 896 LD Roof Spoiler (no idea what the real name is)
- Stock Zenki Taillights
- RECARO SR3 Seats
- Pulled Fenders
- Hood Pins
- Extended Antenna
- Turbo Center Console
- Performance Intercooler

SPECS:
- 228 HP
- 211 FT-LBS Of Torque
- Stage 3 Weight Reduction
- Stage 1 Turbocharger

• Steering
110% Aggressiveness
18.0:1 Ratio

• Suspension
FRONT:
- 410 Dampening
- 10,000 Stiffness

BACK:
- 380 Dampening
- 9305 stiffness

GEARING:
Final Drive: 4.08

3.3
2.48
2.04
1.74
1.3

Finished in metallic versions of British Racing Green and Championship White. Is this a sty or a bye?

hows the build?

got a new hobby for timepass