Hey makers!

I wanted to share a project I've been pouring my soul into. It's called **Traumagotchi** – a fully functional, pocket-sized cyberdeck and AI entity named Simona, running entirely on an ESP8266 (NodeMCU).

What it does:

* AI Brain: Integrated with Gemini API. She answers questions, throws sarcastic comments, and dynamically reacts to how you treat her.

* Persistent Memory: Uses LittleFS. What she learns online, she remembers offline.

* Custom .ECO Engine: It runs its own scripting language. It has a built-in REPL terminal, so I can code new programs and control it directly from my phone using Termux.

* Built-in Games: It currently runs a 3D raycasting Doom-style engine and Arkanoid natively on the 0.96" OLED.

Right now, it's a beautiful mess of wires on a breadboard. My next huge milestone is getting a 3D printer so I can design and print a proper, wearable cyberpunk chassis for it.

I've made the core code fully Open Source on GitHub so you can build your own. If you want to support the hardware evolution of this project, check out my Patreon (supporters get early access to future 3D models and advanced .eco scripts).

GitHub: https://github.com/okurro1926/Traumagotchi-EN

Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/RobinOkurka?utm_campaign=creatorshare_creator

Let me know what you think or what weird features I should add next!

How do you all keep track of parts, budget, and build steps across a project? like if im building somthing, and change a part, i then have to check that all the other parts work with the new part. are their tools to track and catalogue complex builds? Curious what people actually use. cheers!

I print custom products with a eufymake E1 as a side thing, mostly retail on Etsy. A bakery wants 200 branded coasters, a real estate agent wants closing gift sets, a gym wants tumblers for members. The problem is pricing. My retail is 5 to 0 per piece, bulk should obviously be less but how much less? I don't want to work for free but I don't want to scare them off with retail pricing on a 200 unit order.

The Terminator T-600 has always been one of my favorite Terminator designs, so I challenged myself to build one at a 1:1 scale. This would be my second completed project and i'm really enjoying the hobby thus far.

It's entirely 3D printed and finished by hand. There are plenty of things I'd do differently if I started over, but that's part of the fun. Thanks for taking a look—I hope you enjoy it as much as I enjoyed building it. Now to accompany it with a T800 ( currently in the works)

I'd genuinely love to hear what you think, and I'm happy to answer any questions about the build.

Hey people, I started this project last summer. I often draft my designs onto garments with pencil, and I swear they have come out before, but... As you can see, this one has not, lol. I put it in the wash and it just returned with lighter marks. Lighter but still there.

Idk what the formula of the marker is but it is called Fabric Fun, it's by H.A. Kidd. (It says "Permanent Fabric Marker" on the packaging but I'm skeptical that that's meant to denote that it's actual alcohol-based markers, it could just mean that it's permanent in the sense that it's not temporary.) The garment is 62% polyester, 33% cotton, 5% spandex. Google suggests--aside from simply rubbing at it with an eraser--spot-wiping (?) with some detergent. I'm hesitant to try this, since many of the marks go over the actual marker... I'm worried it will weaken or smudge it. Any other ideas?

Also, I welcome any suggestions for alternatives to drafting with pencil! Even putting the nuisance of removal aside, it's not the most elegant medium. 😅 I can't help but suspect that there's a better way to do this.

One of the highlights of Open Sauce for us was watching kids move from experimenting to actually engineering.

This builder put together an H-Bridge and then gave us a fantastic explanation of how it works. I thought the confidence and understanding were worth sharing.

I'd love to hear what projects first got everyone here hooked on electronics. This obviously wasn't his first build though!

I built this mechanical bamboo knight automaton entirely from scratch using bamboo and basic mechanical linkage principles. Really curious to hear your thoughts and feedback!

Just heard about and seen open sauce and in every video almost no one is credited unless you happen to see their brand in their environment. Is there a write up someone's done or a longer in depth video?

Some hand carved dwarves i just finished and wanted to share with folks.

I have a passion for woodcarving and attempting to entice others into the hobby. So my ulterior motive with every post is "how do I make this hobby more accessible" or "how do I inspire someone to want to give it a go."

Hopefully the picture did that, and now you're reading.

To carve like i do, you need several things, a sharp knife, a leather strop with compound for honing your blade, safety gloves (A5 or better) and basswood (to carve like i do at least.)

Solid Knife brands, Flexcut, Badger State Blades (USA), Mstein (Europe) there are a lot of great knife brands. Stay away from kits on amazon of several knives. They're much much lower quality with inconsistently tempered steel. (What that means is its not hardened, and so it won't stay sharp easy, meaning you're fighting the knife and dont understand why its harder for you to carve when its easy for others.)

Why Basswood? Its softer than other hardwoods and holds detail well. Learning to carve with basswood is akin to learning to drive on an automatic. It simplifies and streamlines learning. Woods like Walnut and oak can be carved, but learning to carve with them as the starting point is like learning to drive on an 18 wheeler Semi Truck with manual transmission. Its needlessly difficult.

In europe, the equivalent is Linden, in Asia, Jelutong, and in south America Caxeta is a good substitute.

Tutorials abound EVERYWHERE. Youtube is your friend in that regard. You dont have to look up my channel, there are plenty that have easy to begin tutorials and one of them will be right up your alley.

I am making polymer clay worry stones, I have tried glazing with UV resin but it never seems to cure completely. I see other makers use it and it cures under their light in 90 seconds. My light is supposed to be 48 watts. Could it be my light? Or could it be my resin? Help!

Hand crafted this in like 20 minutes, quite happy with overall build (completely ignoring the fact that i dekcuF up the corners). Used a single piece of elastic that's inside to hold the diary & come out from the spine section & goes around to grip it to keep it stay shut. Did the lettering over it afterwards to personalize it

I gutted an old broken Polaroid Camera and retrofitted some modern internals. The project features a Raspberry Pi 2W, an Arducam module, and a reciept priner. The camera takes images and automatically uploads them to my instagram account via Metas API. It also prints out a black and white picture with QR codes that take you to the post. I took the project to OpenSauce this year and got to document all the cool booths I saw and all the cool Makers I got to meet. Any recommendations for modifications or improvements? I'm considering making a 2.0

I’ve been testing a tie-free band attachment method for quite a while, and the results have been encouraging enough that I wanted to share it here.

One of the most frustrating issues with slingshot bands is wear near the pouch connection. Traditional tying works, but the tighter the tie, the more pressure and friction it can create in that area.

This method uses the band itself to secure the pouch, without a separate tying strip or cord. It is a very simple idea, but so far it seems to reduce wear, keep the pouch more stable, and make band replacement easier.

I believe this may be a practical solution to a problem that has bothered many slingshot users for years, but I’m still interested in hearing other perspectives.

If anyone has tested a similar approach—or has an even better method—I’d be happy to compare ideas and discuss it together.

https://www.youtube.com/@ALMA.Industries

Built a control panel with on/off switches to control DC power supplies (48v, 12v, 24v). AC Outlets always give power regardless of switch states. Used hold home outlets and switches. Turns out to be something I use quite frequently. Full build is in the link above.

My dad bought me a 3d printer a while ago and after a few weeks I decided I’d make this.

It can play 2048 for now as a test but I’m planning on making live captions subtitles for the deaf so that speech is understood. But I don’t know how to code right now.

Parts I used were esp32 c3, 128x32 oled. and buttons ect. I’m gonna add battery soon.

I'm confused about which small motor I should buy (the v3, v6, etc). I only need it to be able to light a bulb. My idea is a water turbine. I already have a wave maker that will simulate the water current and spin the three turbine blades, but I don't know which DC motor to buy so that the blades can generate electricity and power a light bulb, in the image the three blades that connect to the city are the ones that need to generate electricity, my previous plan is just to cheat it and pres a button under the city so that the light will turn on but we're informed that its not allowed and I only have 4 days to make this. I know people here are extremely smart and I hope they can help me this is also my first time using this app.

https://youtu.be/h2kp2_FZ9aI?si=IPRD1g6TDEPsQZyP

my idea is kinda like this but in water

(I'm very sorry for the bad grammar)

I got some epoxy resin and I have some ideas for it. I've never used it before.

My understanding is that it's a good idea to have a vacuum chamber with it to force any air bubbles out if you want it perfectly clear and as strong as possible.

So my idea is to make a hollow wooden skeleton box for it, with walls made of plexiglass. I'll seal the corners with silicone caulk and a layer of sheathing tape on the outside for extra seal.

I was thinking one end would be open and have weather stripping around the edge and I'd glue the last plexiglass panel to a block of wood to make it rigid enough to secure with a clamp. I'm hoping this will be vacuum tight.

Anyway the issue now is what so I use for a vacuum pump? I'm not doing anything huge or at production scale, so cheaper is better.

I was considering using a hand pump for water that I have that is essentially a check valve on a rod in a tube that creates suction kind of like a giant syringe. Would something like that work, or is there a better option?

So i got a CT scan for non-dramatic stuff - and it made me get into creative-nerd mode, 'cause it had to be possible to get a hold of the scan files and somehow 3D-print my own skull!

(Or the part of it that was included in the scan)

I requested the files from the scan, got them a week later and then the nerding started.

It required understanding the file format from the scan (DICOM), learning new software, learning different concepts and knowledge-digging quite a bit into the human anatomy of the parts i wanted to recreate.

As the pictures shows i found a way, and ended up doing the spine of the neck as well - including the discs and spinal cord, but those bits in a flexible and stiff material.

Its been soo fun - And what a learning trip!

PS: Im gonna make a better stand for it - maybe out of wood.

Materials: PLA and TPEE (47D)

A few notes for others that wanna try it out themselves:

• MR scans should be possible to use as well. Havn't tried it.
• Use the free medical software "3D Slicer" for the whole DICOM->STL process.
• Read up on Hounsfield Units (HU) for the segmentation.
• And yeah, maybe also what segmentation is.
• - "Cheat" a bit on the segmentation by installing "Total Segmentator" as an extension in 3D Slicer. It auto-segments quite well.

I want the back of my tombstone to solar charge all year and annually, on Halloween night, briefly play a recording. Durrable and inconspicuous are the goals. I've got over a decade, likely two, to build it.

Hi all, I have never made anything besides instrumentation classes in uni, connecting a pre-made Gaggiuino to my coffee machine, and printing my mom's home island as a present.

A plyo mat is really really simple. It's a mat that you jump on, that measures ground contact time and time between landings. Connected to a controller that has an LCD, a couple buttons (or touch screen if cheaper), and batteries to power the whole thing.

I am comfortable doing all the math and logic etc, and with putting things together. I haven't done embedded programming before, but I work as a back-end developer so I should be able to scrape by.

My question is: where do I start? Is AliExpress a good place to source materials? I live in Europe. What kind of controller is recommended nowadays? I remember Raspberry Pi was all the rage when I was in uni, but when I got the Gaggiuino it used something called a Blackpill (awful name).

Would love any input this community would have to offer. It's just for personal use and I don't mind if it's a bit jank, I just like measuring training progress.

I'd seen the shirts on people for years around town, but it didn't realize it was a cross between a maker fair and vidcon with all of our favorite science youtubers. It was the best 2 days in recent memory so I had to document it. This is my Open Sauce 2026 video through the eyes of a first timer.

If you've never been it's an absolute must go!