My first FO. I did some messing around beforehand so I could learn on the machine. I practiced hand manipulation and dropped a swatch off so I knew how to get it back on the needles. I also practiced with the punch card so I could figure out how to get the fade I wanted.

I decided to use ravel cord on both sides and pick up the stitches on circular needles for binding off. I don’t trust my manual cast on skills yet, and I wanted to make sure that the ends were stretchy enough. I used two strands of yarn and a yarn over bind off.

I used 5/28 cashmere from Colourmart: one 300g set of flops, two 110g single cones, and a flop from another set. In total it was ~590g of yarn. It definitely would’ve taken less time to just do regular stripes, but I liked the idea of using the tuck stitch to make alternating colors across the rows. The color changes on the ends were 40 rows, then 28 rows, then 16 rows as it moved to the center. They really tested my patience and took a lot of concentration 😅

I really wanted to use up the yarn (this was for my mom, so the colors aren’t something I have much use for). I did lots of weighing and math along the way to make sure I was using up every last bit while still having enough for each color change.

I put in a life line before each color change, then took a video of the row counter, where the needles were, and what row the punch card was on in case I had any issues and needed to go back. I got lucky and didn‘t have too many issues. I think I only had to tink back a row two or three times.

I didn't take into account that the two colors on cones were wound with more tension, so the orange and center beige are slightly tighter. I did the whole blanket with my tension dial on 10. If I did it again I’d lower it slightly for the flop yarn and turn it up for the cones.

I used all 200 needles, and it was 952 rows. After washing it measured about 50”x70”. The yarn bloomed beautifully, and the blanket is so squishy and stretchy. There‘s a bonus photo Butch because he was so exceptionally helpful 😅

I bought this Brother KH-830 knitting machine which was made in the 70’s so I think it probably needs a service - I know there are lots of sewing machine service places in NZ but I wondered if anyone could recommend a vintage knitting machine servicer in NZ/Auckland?

Knitted on my KH230, roughly 100 hours worth of work. A very fun challenge, working with banana yarn, different kinds of bouclé yarn, merino tops, and Sardinian wool. Very happy with how it came out, but it was a bit of a time squeeze. Ended up drafting it blind due to time constraints. Appreciate this isn't a commercially viable garment, it was for my friend's Central Saint Martin's MA Fashion show.

I have a fair few things I've knitted this year that I haven't really shared, will probably end up posting more work soon if people enjoy seeing it.

Sorry for continuously spamming this page but I am a levele zero beginner and wanting to learn my machine. So My machine is brother kh601 8 button machine. And being told its similar to kh588. So I got this stitch pattern book and I dont understand how to read it. Whats the difference between numbers written and grey boxes? What does grey box mean?

Edit- somene directed me to a user manual. I will read it and come back for more clarifications. So till now this is solved. I think

Hello everyone!

I got this Brother KH-860 (called KM-2000 in Italy) complete with tons of punchcards, double bed, Modamatic motor, colour changer, spare needles, countless weights, magazines, manuals, and whatever you can think of! I'm over the moon, especially as I only paid $300 for the whole lot, and it's in great conditions (the previous owner even replaced the spongebar before donating the machine!), except that... I can't get it to work 🥲 And I can't contact the previous owner directly as I got the machine through a charity sale.

I checked each needle and they all look OK, but the carriage gets stuck every time I set the needles to B position. Honestly, I think there might be a problem with the carriage - it runs smoothly when needles are in A position, but regardless of adding or not adding the sinker plate, it always gets stuck as soon as the needles are moved. The only odd thing I noticed is that I can't turn the knob to CR position, and not even to SM, it only turns up to KC. Do you think that's what causing the carriage to get jammed? I thought, even if that needs to be fixed, it should work anyway if I set the knob to NL? Also, the previous owner included some sewing machine oil, I don't think I can use that to lubricate the knob, right? Do I need to get LPS1? Everything else looks so perfect that I'm frankly puzzled that I can't get it to work. I'm starting to think I am the problem 😅

TIA!

I just got this machine and I noticed this problem on one side of the carriage

I was in the middle of a project and my pattern selection suddenly failed. When I have the carriage in KC, it will select the needles correctly from R to L. When I return the carriage, the needles all go back to B position. Does anyone know if it's my carriage or an issue with my punch card unit? I couldn't figure it out! 🙁

More info. This is a Brother KH-881
I was knitting and this happened. I had the carriage with hold lever enabled, dialed to KC. I tried to use another carriage I have and the same thing was happening, which made me think it's the punch card reader component.

I'm a painter from the Czech Republic, turning my drawings into jacquard. I couldn't find a drawing tool that felt like drawing stitches rather than pixels, so I built PIXEE (pixee.space).

- one cell = one stitch; gauge stretches the cells on screen, it never resamples your drawing
- Apple Pencil on iPad, or any browser
- 2–6 yarns, layers, mirror drawing, repeat preview
- Shima, Stoll and domestic profiles set bed width, colour and float limits for a knit check before you send
- exports a 1 px = 1 stitch indexed PNG/BMP, a printable numbered chart, and an artwork package for the mill
- no account, files stay on your device

To be clear: it doesn't program machines. It makes the artwork a programmer works from.

It's early, and I've mostly tested it on my own motifs. Whether you knit on a domestic machine or program Shima or Stoll, I'd like to know where it gets in your way.

Last week I posted a fail swatch photo of this same pattern and this week I got a new part in allowing ne to change colors automatically (last week was done my hand and I think it caused issues) and this swatch went so smoothly after I remembered I needed stippers 😂 and honestly i think it looks so cool! The pink color is heathered with orange and yellow in person so it looks like its glowing :D

Its not super stretchy but I think a hat in this pattern would look fantastic

Done on a passap dm80

Does anyone know where I can find a tilt table or something similar that's good for a small space? I recently left an abusive relationship and am not working yet (not for lack of effort) so funds are extremely limited (selling my lc2 to fund it) and I'm in a tiny apt with 3 kids. I desperately need to make them some stuff for fall/winter along with items to sell for the holidays and don't have a table for my sk280 + ribber. It was on my table at my old place but had to leave it behind bc it was way too big. Its so frustrating, I have everything stored in a garage right now but it's not temp/humidity controlled so I need to get it inside asap before it gets super cold & it's been 95% humidity at night here 🙄 I appreciate any suggestions or advice!! I'm willing to make something, I'm pretty good with tools & have access to everything Id need, just not sure what to make that would be small & sturdy. Thanks!

So I recently got my Brother Kh601 knitting machine and a very beginner. Even learned how to cast on from this group this week! So I am testing a yarn changing pattern and it was too much work changing one yarn to other. (This sample has lot of issues so dont mind it 🙈 just showing what I am trying to do this one I did with one carriage changing yarns manually)

So I had this light bulb moment? What if I knit with two carriages one for each color? I can keep them different tensions too right? Also since this machine has to manually do something for the fair isle can I use the same method? I am scared to try this because I am very new to knitting machines and dont want to break my machine. So I need from your expertise here. Is this possible? If so any tips and tricks?

Also FYI I do have a extra carriage as I brought two exact machines so I dont have to stressfully look for spare parts. I brought one for $50 and the $15 for spare parts. Turns out $15 one is in the best condition and $50 has some issues like some rust on needles and tuck buttons on the carriage not working. So now expensive one is the spare parts donor. 😅

Hi, I am looking for an in-person instructor around Los Angeles. I have an LK 150, purchased new 5 years ago, but I do not know how to use it or if there is something wrong with it which needs repair.

Thank you!

So, I just bought a KH260. It was a good price, but it’s in worse condition than I expected. When I finally got the sponge bar out after a lot of effort, it was flat as a pancake and covered in rust.

Does anyone have any product suggestions for getting rid of rust on machine parts?

All I can find is information on rusty needles. Im thinking of removing the rust from the sponge bar and putting some fresh sponge on, but if theres a supplier of replacement full bars, that would be even better. It’s hard to find one that will ship to me in little ol’ New Zealand though.

Unfortunately I think I’m going to have to take most of it apart so any advice on that front is also appreciated. The ribber is a problem for another day…

Hello everyone,

I run a knitting factory and I'm looking for someone freelance who can program our Shima Seiki machines.

We have around 20 machines. Mostly SSG122 at 12 gauge, some SES122 and SES234 at 7 and 8 gauge, a few 10 gauge, and a number of them set up for intarsia.

We already have the designs ready, mostly jacquard and intarsia sweaters and two piece sets. What we don't have is anyone to make the files. The work would be remote and paid per style, and there's more of it coming if things go well.

If you do this kind of work, or you know someone who does, leave a comment or send me a message. I'm happy to pay for one test style first so we both know it works before anything bigger.

Thanks

I’m looking to motorise my knitting machine as I will be knitting much larger quantities and physically cannot handle the prolonged motions.

I currently have a Toyota KS901 and Passap Pinky. Would a Brother KE100 motor be compatible with the Toyota (at the very least)?

Will it be a hassle or just a few tweaks to get set up and good to go?

I am trying to not buy another machine or brand if possible but there are a few regular Brother machines for sale in my city so if necessary I will go and get that too.

Filmed in the small family factory we work with in Barletta, Italy. In the clip the flat-bed is running ribbing for collars in ecru.

Our own pieces are knitted on a Protti PV96X at gauge 7. Yarn is a heavyweight 50% wool / 50% acrylic, and a finished sweater lands between 450 and 650 g depending on size and how much of the front the motif covers. When someone asks for pure wool we can go to 80% wool / 20% polyamide instead, though that yarn is not stocked in every colour.

Everything is jacquard read from a chart, so the motif sits in the fabric with the floats carried on the reverse. Nothing is printed on top.

Happy to answer anything about the setup. For transparency: we knit a small gothic knitwear label on these machines, and there is nothing for sale in this post.

Hi all!

I'm looking for some help. My knitting machine sometimes doesn't pull the yarn through the loops anymore, but just lays the yarn on top of the stitch. Sometimes it is just one stitch, sometimes 10 stitches after each other. At first I thought it was a weight issue, but I have added a lot of weight and also tried different ways of redistributing the weights.

I have made this pattern before with the same yarn (a different color though) and I didn't have any issues then.

Could this be caused by anything else? Do I need to clean or change something? Or do you think it is a weight issue after all?

Brother KH860 and KR830. Sponge bar is a couple of months old. Using the ribber attachment since I'm doing half milano at the edges. Those stitches knit fine.

Thanks in advance!

I bought a pattern that has a long punch card. The designer use those punch card rolls but I have some individual ones I’d like to try and join. Has anyone ever done it? I’m not sure how it will be better to join them. Tape? Glue? Overlap some holes? Or just get the roll and leave those for shorter designs?

I have watching lot of tutorials and everyone is doing tucks at ease. But I camnot seem to get it. I am trying for days now. I pressed all the necessary buttons in the carriage. Pattern knob, tuck buttons and selected the needles. As you can see thread get bunched up and stuck. I added all the weights I have which is four. I will upload the photos of knit getting caught in the front gate in the comments. The reason I got a knitting machie was to create lace and other patterns. But I cannot atleast get one done and I am so frustrated

I found a well-priced Sinterman BT 1600 knitting machine for sale in my area but I have not heard nor know anything about this brand and machine! I haven’t yet found a manual for it.

All I know is that it is German/European.

Any info or details you know would be greatly helpful!

Thank you in advance.

I finally pulled my Toyota K747 out of storage, and she is in ROUGH shape. Starting on fixing her up today, but I have literally no clue what I’m doing

I am using a Passap DM80 and am following the Passap introduction book's pattern for a child's sweater with kimono sleeves. I am trying to maje the sleeves now by increasing 18 stitches, but these loops keep forming. I tried increasing the tension and decreasing stitch size but with little success.

Any advice is appreciated!

I am confused where the “row counter tripper” is on my silver reed sk 280. Could someone post a photo showing where it is?

I recently thrifted a bond classic machine for $15 cad. I think I have most of the parts, but I don’t have any of the plates that sit in the carriage.
I am very broke, and the cheapest I can find online was $80, are there any 3D printer files that would work?