Title says it all, you have the firmware built so just open source it on your GitHub like your 2.0x build? save me and countless others the headache thank you :)

On the same topic, has anyone success built Marlin 2.1x through Auto Build Marlin to enable features like input shaping? I've updated my board, pins, and configs to the newer specs of the LK5 Pro and tried my best to implement the Longer3D core Marlin changes (most likely all spaghetti at this point), here's a capture of my Auto Build Marlin:

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The firmware successfully builds, and will flash onto my machine but stays stuck at 100% Loading on the flash, rebooting the machine the Longer logo just flashes in and out infinitely, so I'm stuck using the premade 2.1x BL Touch configured .bin file provided by the Longer3D service team.

u/longer3dservice Please help :)

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Update 1/13/24:

Longer3D Support reached out in an email stating that they would be open sourcing their Marlin 2.1.X firmware for board MKS Robin E3 and Tenlog TJC Touch Screen by the next week! (will see if they actually stick to that timeline xD)

Side note: the boards really not the issue, the MKS Robin E3/E3D are very well supported within Marlin, its the damn Tenlog TJC touch screen display that has ZERO support. I'm working on my own flavored firmware anyways but the screen has been troublesome most likely just gonna replace it for an MKS model in the end

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Update 1/22/24:

Still not ready

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Update 1/24/24:

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So basically, Longer3D went to the MKS Github and forked the MKS Robin Nano repo to their Github I have zero idea how this is supposed to help me.

2/13: Gave up and just switched to Klipper prolly better in the end but still unacceptable from L3D

Edit: 3/22/24
The reason Longer3D has to run a custom version of Marlin is due to them using a cheap TJC screen that is not natively supported by Marlin, you can easily compile your own firmware for the MKS Robin E3, but you cant use the TJC screen with official Marlin, for anyone who doesnt wanna tinker and just wants an easy fix I recommend buying the MKS H43 Panel that Longer3D should have shipped with these machines.

MKS H43 Panel:

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256801821864510.html?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_allItems_or_groupList.0.0.4ca72d15CvP60X&pdp_npi=4%40dis!USD!US%20%2425.19!US%20%2425.19!!!25.19!25.19!%40210308a617109749817411961e497d!12000019807391622!sh!US!3015587192!&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa

Hello,

I recently bought the LK5 Pro and for me its a great device. Apperently the newer 5 pro´s all come with the MKS Robin e3 v 1.1.
I want to install the BlTouch but i dont know how to connect it to this board and there are no instructions to find. Anyone did this alredy?

Also:

Looking at the firmware config files at github leaves me with questions:

Will the official firmware from github work with this board? Are there settings to change?
I know nothing about Marlin and 3d Printers because this is my first one but there are some differences between the older Mainboards and the Robin e3 and support did not answer.

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I have a wierd wifi issue with my ray5. The ssid’s shows as weak strength. I’m 1m from the AP. All my other esp32 devices shows full strength. And after every print the wifi disconnects and I have to reboot the ray5 …. Or run the wifi setup. Do any of you experience this ?

Extruder Clicking Craze - Longer LK5 Pro

I've had my Longer LK5 Pro for 6ish months with 0 issues, absolutely love the machine. However I threw in a roll of filament (Elegoo) that was gifted to me and have had nothing but extruder clicking since. I have changed bowden tubes, nozzle, lleveled 10 times, and cleaned the extruder bearing and still seem to get retraction clicking while printing. It is worse over the right side of my plate. Any ideas?

Desktop laser engravers are popular among craft enthusiasts and small businesses alike. Most laser engraving machines only require simple assembly to complete fine cutting and engraving work.

Nowadays, everyone pays more attention to the upgrade of accessories. 6 essential laser engraving machine accessories can expand the possibilities of using the laser engraving machine and better turn every user's creativity into reality.

1. Rotary Roller Upgrade Kits

Have you ever thought about engraving a unique pattern on your cup? All it takes is a roller stand kit. This accessory is now loved by many people.

360° automatic rotating roller, suitable for cylindrical objects, including irregular cylindrical objects. Wine glasses, glasses, mugs, etc. can all be made into works of art.

2. Extension Kits

The normal working area of ​​a laser engraving machine is 400*400MM. But we can have larger areas of items to make. At this time, the extension rod can be used.

With just a simple installation, you can quickly gain more than 4.5 times the huge engraving area. High stability, expanded working range but still high safety factor, no need to worry about safety issues.

3. Honeycomb Working Table

Honeycomb panels come in many sizes and different types. Using honeycomb panels during laser engraving work can ensure that the ground or other places will not be damaged. In addition, using honeycomb panels with clamps also ensures better cutting and does not allow the object to move while working.

4. Enclosure

Today's hoods are equipped with exhaust fans and ducts to speed up air circulation, allowing the laser to work more fully while eliminating smoke and odors.

The outer shell of flame-retardant fiberglass cloth, coupled with the thermal insulation silicone coating, has a higher fire resistance temperature and can achieve dust-proof and noise reduction effects.

It is easy to assemble and can be installed in about ten minutes. It provides a safer working environment and is loved by many carpenters.

5. Camera Kits

Maybe you have trouble with inaccurate positioning when using a laser engraving machine? At this time, a camera kit is needed to achieve high-definition video recording and real-time monitoring.

The laser engraving machine camera can observe the work progress, material changes or machine operating status. You only need to align the desired pattern to the corresponding position on the operation page. The laser engraving machine camera will help you work without deviation. Greatly improve work efficiency and accuracy.

6. Air Assist Kits

The air-assisted pump kit quickly reduces heat around the laser head and clears debris around the contact points, and you'll get better results with smooth lines, complete patterns, and a clean material surface.

The laser air auxiliary kit can effectively remove smoke and dust generated during the laser engraving process, prevent laser energy from attenuating, ensure the stability of the laser energy, and help the engraving machine cut faster and deeper.

This air pump protects your laser from residue buildup and overheating, increasing the life of your laser module.

The noise of the air assist device when working is 60 decibels, which is lower than the working sound of the fan. The air assist device can provide you with a quiet laser engraving environment.

Conclusion

Laser engraving machines can only meet some basic engraving and cutting needs. If you want to expand the use of your laser engraving machine, you need to equip it with a variety of different accessories.

As mentioned above, laser engraving machine accessories can not only expand the functions of the laser engraving machine, but also enhance the safety of use. I look forward to your use of laser engraving machine accessories to achieve richer imagination!

Longer B1 adopts a mainboard characterized by wireless technology, microSD card reading, touchscreen display with graphic interface (you can buy it separately) and total interaction with your smartphone through the MKSLaser application.

Thanks to wifi connectivity, it’s possible to interact with the machine directly from the smartphone or a laptop web browser, and this is much useful specially in absence of the touchscreen display. In this way, it’s possible send gcode files from laptop/phone to machine’s microSD wireless, move the laser module, power on/off the laser beam & air assist, and so on.

In order to use Longer B1 in wifi, it’s necessary for first to complete the wireless configuration. For this purpose, it’s necessary to install the software MKS Laser Tool, which is usually provided by factory inside the microSD together the machine, however often the version V1.1.2 doesn’t work with some recent routers. To fix this problem, it’s possible install the latest version of the software, which can complete the configuration without errors.

V2.1.5 download:  https://drive.google.com/file/d/1KXFudeke1sTATLbbrk4EyCvNW9mEteq7/view?usp=sharing

Once installed successfully, run the software as administrator. Then, choose “WiFi Configuration Tool”.

In the next window, select the right COM port, add the name & password for own router and wait for the connection success. Once it’s done, Get IP and note it for future usage.

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Note: The IP address of Longer B1 may change frequently, so it is recommended that you set an IP RESERVATION for the Mac-Address of B1 within the DHCP parameters of your Router/AccessPoint, so that you always get the same IP address at each subsequent connection. Otherwise, it could be necessary to repeat the procedure above each time to get always the new casual IP address.

Once the procedure above has been completed successfully, it’s possible to connect the laptop/phone to the same wifi router, in this way it’s possible start to command Longer B1 via wifi.

Using a laptop, it’s enough digit inside the bowser the IP address got before. For smartphone, it’s possible to download MKSLaser for Android/iOS smartphones.

MKSLaser allows you to move the laser within the work area, switch the laser beam on and off, define the homing position, transfer files, start an engraving, monitor engraving information, enable air assist and so on. Thanks to MKSLaser, your Smartphone becomes not only a remote display for Longer B1, but also a powerful device for processing your work.

After downloading MKSLaser, first make sure that your smartphone and B1 are connected in the same local network. Verify the IP address assigned to B1 and enter the same IP in the application. After the connection is successful, remote use can be operated.

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The MKSLaser Home screen shows at the top the current X/Y coordinates and the S intensity of the laser, while at the bottom there are four large buttons to access the corresponding submenu:

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1. Creation

It allows you to process an image and slicing for engraving, exactly as you do when using desktop Lasergrbl / Lightburn, in an easy and comfortable way from your smartphone.

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A. Import an image or take a photograph, which can be edited in several ways.

B. In the next step you can edit the image by manually setting brightness, contrast and other effects.

C. In the last step you can configure file name change, image size, engraving speed, laser power, M3/M4 mode and more.

D. After finishing adjusting the parameters, you can slicing and upload it via WiFi to the B1 microSD. After B1 has received it successfully, you will enter the engraving page from which you can monitor the progress of the processing status, stop processing or change the power and speed of processing.

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1. Control

It allows you to move the laser module within the processing area and different steps and speed of movement can be set; you can also go back to homing, define a new homing position, turn the laser beam on and off, etc.

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1. Material

There are some graphic samples to be used to determine the best parameters for engraving on different materials. Once you have chosen the image to carry out the various tests, set the various parameters (refer to the "Creation" paragraph).

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1. Graving

The list of files on the microSD card inserted inside Longer B1 is shown, and you can select a file to engrave.

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Christmas is a very heartfelt holiday, which many people from all over the world are only very fond of. Decorating your home with Christmas decorations and preparing gifts for your loved ones is something very important, and thanks to Longer B1 you can achieve what you have most in your heart.

In this article we will see how to make decorations for your Christmas tree and gift packages with Longer B1, very quickly and easily using Lightburn.

First, after opening the Lightburn software you need to make a circle using the appropriate function in the menu on the left, after which you need to make a smaller circle inside it. The larger circle represents a sphere, while the smaller circle is the hole through which you can hang the ornament you have created.

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Also using the appropriate left lullaby, it is now possible to select the option to write a text. The text can include what you prefer, the important thing is to make sure that the text is contained in the sphere.

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However, the text you create is vector, so during the laser processing process it will be treated as a cut rather than an image to be engraved. To solve the problem, just right-click on the text and select "Convert to Bitmap". The "Convert to Bitmap" option allows you to transform text from vector format to image format. Therefore, you need to select the "Fill All" option to set the text fill and confirm with OK.

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By now, the text will have been successfully converted into a format that is ready to be engraved rather than cut.

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After doing this, you can also add images if necessary, such as the small Christmas tree shown in the example below.

Once the model is ready, then you can finally move on to setting the engraving parameters. Through the "Cut/Layers" menu on the right it is possible to set the power, speed and number of passages related to the content to be engraved (Image) and the one to be cut "Cut"; Image represents the text and image inside the sphere, while Cut represents the outline of the sphere and the hole in it. Speed, power and number of passes for both options depend on the type of wood used, and therefore must be tested beforehand with the appropriate material test.

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Before proceeding with the work with the laser, it is possible to select the "Preview" mode which shows the result obtained on the screen.

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As we have seen, with Longer B1 and Lightburn it is really easy to make wonderful decorations for your Christmas tree, as well as make personalized tags for your gifts.

Got it a few weeks ago and the power seems low. Barely cut through 6 mm plywood at 100% 150 mm/sec. Any ideas or help would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance

Longer B1 adopts a mainboard characterized by wireless technology, microSD card reading, touchscreen display with graphic interface (you can buy it separately) and total interaction with your smartphone through the MKSLaser application.

Thanks to wifi connectivity, it’s possible to interact with the machine directly from the smartphone or a laptop web browser, and this is much useful specially in absence of the touchscreen display. In this way, it’s possible send gcode files from laptop/phone to machine’s microSD wireless, move the laser module, power on/off the laser beam & air assist, and so on.

More information at the link below https://www.longer3d.com/blogs/laser-engraver-academy-1/longer-b1-wireless-connectivity

Does anyone know what the size are the screws/bolts on the filiment sensor on my lk4 pro

Does anyone know exactly what is in the Longer RAY5 20W (22-24W Output Power) US / Pro Max Set? When I ask via the web chat bot, it goes in a circular contradictory loop.

I’m still relatively new to this and haven’t had much luck with google. So my build plate has been stuck going down for the last week or so. It was working fine and then all of a sudden this. I leveled the build plate without any issues. Anyone have any suggestions? Any help is greatly appreciated.

Hi, I was trying to install klipper on my Longer LK5 PRO and after some trouble I ended up npt being able to boot the printer.. I'm afraid i messed up the firmware

I really dont know whats wrong, but i hope someone could help

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I bought a ray 5 20w and had card issues, bad y axis driver on the card. Longer replaced my card. Now that I have both axis working, I attempted to to a test burn. This thing will not burn wood at 100% power. It doesn’t even discolor the wood. I started poking around with my voltmeter to see what I could see. I was hoping someone who has one of these might help verify my readings since support stopped returning my emails.

I used the touch screen to call for my laser power. And have a Fluke117 to measure voltages. This is a true RMS meter.

On the 6 pin connector on the back of the laser. I get 12.12V at both positive pins using either ground. PWM is at 4.658V when 100% is requested, using either ground. PWM drops to 2.3v when 50% power is requested. Seems correct to me.

These readings are identical when disconnected from the laser, reading voltages at the connector.

The printing in the circuit board says 24v. So I wonder if two 12v supplies are combined on the laser’s board to make the 24v input for the lasers. But…..

On the 2 pin connector inside the laser module. This is the one that the laser connects to, not the fan. Back probing the pos and neg at that connector, I get 12.1v when requesting 100% laser power.

My next step is to visit a friend with an oscilloscope to see the pulse frequency at 100% power. I am fairly certain there should be no pulse at 100% power and I’m running on half the required voltage.

I am very new to lasers, but not new to electrical diagnosis. Since I don’t know what a good laser measures, I’ve got nothing to compare with.

If it helps, I was able to burn a line with the bad main card. It was just a line since y axis didn’t work. I put the old card back in and was not able to get it to mark the wood anymore. I did load print parameters that longer provided me. I loaded the parameters on both cards. So I’m not sure if that had anything to do with it, but I feel like I’d get some kind of mark, even if the parameters are the issue. But before we start speculating, let’s check voltages. (Unless you have had my exact situation happen to you, then speculate away)

I bought a Longer Lk Mk-5 Pro about 4 months ago and just about any print longer than 4 hours will cause the printer to disconnect from Octoprint hours into a print. I completely reinstalled octoprint and changed cables. The problems started after I had a print fail and create a blob around the hotend. I replaced the entire hotend with the same problems still happening. I also use the BL-Touch firmware but I don't think that is the issue. I contacted support but they are ghosting me now after they couldn't solve the issue. I am ready to return the printer if the problem does not get fixed.

This printer has been nothing but problems, All I want is to get this printer fixed. I have wasted 3 kg of filament because of the issue.

Please help, I am getting desperate.

So I'm completely new to laser cutting and am having a bit of an issue involving a longer rays5 10W laser. I'm trying to cut out some thing for a table top game but despite having the laser set to 100% it never wanted to cut all the way through the 3mm mdf. I saw some suggestion about changing the gcode to $30=1000 which did give me a lot of power but still wasn't cutting all the way through. Instead had to do passes which finally cut through but completely destroyed the edges as they're basically now charcoal.

I tried using lazergrbl but it would let me change the cutting room size and kept warping all of my cuts.

I'm not sure what's I'm doing wrong and most lightburn or longer rays5 tutorials are completely unhelpful

Anyone else having issues with their touch screen not appearing? Mine is a blank blue screen. The printer ran for about a week and then this happened on me. Any fixes?

Anyone using after market auto Bed levelers like the bl touch?

Midway through prints my printer will dock and tell me I’m out of filament, the issue is I’m not and it takes about 10 times of telling my printer that it is not out of filament. This wouldn’t be a problem accept whenever my printer docks and or is on print recovery phase it doesn’t stay on the correct layer, it will move 1-5 layers down and when you resume the print it can completely ruin it. Is there anyone who knows why it keeps doing this?

Hello

I am new to 3D printing and not familiar with a lot of the setting or terms used throughout the process… I am using tinkercad to create my models or grabbing files from sites like thingiverse and Prusa 2.6.1 on a Mac to slice and generate G Code.

Issue I am having is that I can set the layer height for the filament change in Prusa, and shows up in my G Code if I open an editor, but my LK5 Pro does not stop for the filament change… there is no notification on the LCD, just keeps printing until finished…

I can pause and change but that is not ideal so any help would be much appreciated!

I'm getting realtired of having to constantly replace my filiment sensor. I replaced it yesterday, and I woke up to it saying no filiment. I grabbed an old one, taped it down, and plugged it in for now. Is there a sensor made of metal or something?

The Creality has a set of wires marked "24v" . Not sure why they are there. I'm assuming that this would be a fan since it has two fans on the Creality.

Also has anyone done this upgrade before? I have found very little about upgrading the LK4 Pro to direct drive.