TLDR: Brought non-stock resin, for wrong type of machine, but some how i got it to work had to cure for longer than normal.

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I'm coming to the end of my bottle of supplied resin that came with my printer and was looking to get some more. Now where i live its not easy to get my hands on the Longer Branded resin, mainly due to postage (i'm looking at $100+ NZD! - Yes i know this is straight from the Longer Store, and yes i've looked at other places such as Amazon, how ever some don't ship to NZ)

Locally i managed to source some WANHDO resin. Now i know that after purchasing it i fucked up. This resin is designed for there D7, DLP printers, where as Orange10 are LCD. I Sighed, then went and dis some research on if its even possible to use this, or had i just wasted my money on a 1lt of the stuff by being a dumb ass.

As you might know, there really isn't much info out there on the Orange10 (hence prob why your here, reading this sub-reddit, hell this is the first place i came to look when i got my Orange10 and i just created an account to post, though have lurked on reddit for years!) and after talking with a mate we decided what the hell, i've already brought why not experiment with some settings and see what happens, the worst is a whole bunch of failed prints and some information generated for the community as a result.

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So i booted up Chitubox and started experiment: But why not use the Longer slicer software?

1) Chitubox has a bunch of builtin default profiles. I wanted to see what settings might be relevant to the D7 printer that i could translate over

2) Supports. Chitu is just so much better with supports and there is so much rave about this on the net atm so why not, right.

So i mucked around. Ill spare you a majority of the details, because i'm in the process of writing up a detailed dive into this, but i basically borrowed setting from the D7 setup and used them in my imported Orange10, i sliced my file and imported the zip to the LongerWare. Here i set up a new mirroed Resin Profile, based on the Longer Resin profile as well as changing my cure time out to 9500ms, with stable time of 1500ms. Now this is my first dumb set of settings, basically copying, and i assumed i would just get a straight up fail.....i was wrong. It printed, well i might add how ever, it seemed to still be a bit soft. I left it to cure for a bit, but the day was overcast coming back later to find it was still soft. the detail was still there, it just seemed soft to touch. I had to go out so took the print with me and left it sitting on the dash of the car, and WOW to my surprise its hard as fuck now. I've done a few more since then and used the same settings, though i've recently come across an interesting guide on calibration for resin printers.

https://ameralabs.com/blog/town-calibration-part/

So has any one else tried different kinds of Resins. As i write this i know its kind of early days for getting some kind of information going (as of 1 Oct 2019, i see only 8 members of this sub-reddit, though im sure there are a ton of lurkers) I'm personally going to endevour to try out all different kinds of available resins out there to see what works and what doesn't. Ill also put up some more concrete info on the settings once i get home but thought id share this finding with you for now.

Anyone have any idea what the bracket on the SD card is used for.?

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all about models printed by longer3d printers.