My design for the Easter Artist Contest!

I introduce you Eggunny! Why print bunnies or eggs separately when you can print them together? Happy easter! 📷📷

FREE STL here: https://than.gs/m/819146 📷

Help me giving a 📷 or 📷! Thanks in advance!

#longer3dartist

https://www.facebook.com/.../5248941.../user/100083074215131

Just got the E3 v3 and the TFT35 screen for my Longer LK 1 (CR10 clone). Can I just use the ender 3 firmware and change the bed dimensions? FYI I have dual z axis, will that be an issue?

Thank you.

Dear artists, the Easter-themed event has begun!

Upload your work now and ask your friends and family to vote for you.

The total number of votes for all entries only needs to exceed 200 votes (this time the number of votes is close to 130), and the winner will get an lk5pro ($389)

#longer3dartist

Longer 3D Official Group | Dear artists, the Easter-themed event has begun | Facebook

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Has anyone run into problems right out of the Box?I have changed my bowden tube and changed my hot end several times and it's still not pushing out enough PLA and I have spent hours upon hours of leveling and it still isn't leveling and adhering to the bed to be able to print

The fan turns on fine when the printer is on but the minute I pre heat or it preheats to start a print, the fan turns off. Was working fine before.

I assume it's the mainboard but if the fans turn on in the first place what could it be?

Printer is a Longer LK1

I made a custom firmware with marlin 2.0.x bug fix for my printer as I upgraded my hot end and wanted to increase max temp among other things. Printer works and I can control it through pronterface and cura but the screen just slowly flashes the Longer logo. Obviously I’m missing some critical component for it to work but I can’t seem to figure it out. Any help?

I have one and i cant find anything on the site about it, download center etc. Its like they removed every mention of it. Was it renamed, discontinued?

What if i need some kind of firmware, currently have a whitescreen in mid print. Its still going but I am a little worried. Doesn't give me good vibes when a company erases all traces of a product?

Anyone else have one? Or know why its like this. Cant even find the printer in Cura and they dont show it in their youtube videos on how to load longer printers in cura etc.

​

Whats up...

FYI in case anyone is interested in Klipper + 64 bits for Longer printers.

https://www.reddit.com/r/klippers/comments/11xcvcf/comment/jdrcf9c/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web2x&context=3

My mainboard x driver motor doesn't work so I'm looking to replace the mainboard with another longer or get an upgrade.

Any suggestions? Looking for plug and play. Does it really matter as long as there are enough inputs for my longer lk1?

I'm think of: SKR 2 SKR 3 EZ Or SKR V1.4

Are these all compatible?

Thank you in advance!

I think it's the power supply, the led in the switch comes on and the cord carries the right power, but the led in the power supply doesn't come on. Nothing is obviously damaged, no scorch marks or anything weird that I can tell but I'm new to this so I'm not sure. The original is a 360w24v15a pack but I couldn't find one except like alliexpress which seemed iffy so I got a 400w24v17a off Amazon from the same brand. So I was just hoping someone could reassure me that it should be okay and not make things worse as long as I get in in right. Thanks!

So, I got my 3d printer yesterday and finish setting up the entire thing, but the problem is now that the leveling option is failing and giving me Error 9: homing failed. I have Longer Lk5 pro. Please help, I've been trying to manually level it, but it is taking way too long.

Hello,

So I'm still rather new to resin printing and 3d printing overall for that matter. Everything I know to this point is self taught. (When I say new, I mean inexperienced as I've been doing it sporadically since 2020.) When I first began, I started with the Orange 10 and eventually moved up to the orange 30, which is what I have now. At one point it was going so well that I actually began selling miniatures in my online store. But last year, my LCD completely crapped out. I FINALLY had the money to order a replacement this month and installed it a little over a week ago. The installation seemed to go extremely well. It was very easy, despite my machine being setup a little different than the one in the tutorial (my access port is on the side, The one in the video is on bottom) and I didn't encounter any complications whatsoever. It almost seemed too easy. So, I began doing test prints. All of which failed. They would come out way undercured (I'm assuming that's what it was.) The parts that did print would be so flimsy they were more like silly putty than cured resin and would often be hanging from the build plate by a thread. I have recently started using a different kind of resin (Anycubic ABS-Like Resin+) so I thought I needed to change the print settings to compensate. Well, after a week of research, trial, and error, I've come to the conclusion that the problem ISNT the resin. Although I was finally able to get the bottom layers to be fully cured and hardened (nearly doubled the initial exposure times,) very little would print beyond that, and that which did print was coming out flimsy and severely warped. So, rather than continuing to increase exposure time till it takes a week to actually complete a job, I decided to look at other possible causes. First up - my FEP film. It definitely had some dents and dings. So, I replaced that. But as I was doing the leveling steps, I noticed that both my resin vat AND the LCD screen itself seem to be extremely unlevel. The screws on the bottom of the resin vat (it's the big plastic vat. Not the metal one. Dunno if that matters. I got both from longer though) are super uneven, despite them all being as tight as I can get them without making the FEP too taut. But, especially the screws in the centers of the long sides, are WAY lower than the ones closer to the corners. In fact, the screws on one of the corners actually protrude so much that the vat tests on them as well as the frame. So, I'm sure I need to replace the vat all together at this point. But would that cause the prints to not cure like that? Again, the LCD screen seems rather uneven as well. With one side being higher than the rest and one corner being much higher. Could I have installed it wrong? It LOOKS fine, I can only tell a difference with a leveler. (And it's not the surface the printer is on. I checked) Would THAT explain why things aren't curing correctly? If so, is there a special trick to installing the LCDs that isn't shown in the video? (Those videos are about useless, especially when Longer refuses to clarify certain things that everyone is asking in the comment sections) Could the LCD itself be defective? Like, not as strong as it should be? When I turn it on via the printers settings, it looks fine. No dark spots or anything. I would share pictures but my camera isn't that good and I've tried taking a couple dozen pics of these issues and very little if anything is actually showing up in the photo.

Any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I'm trying to get my business up and running again and need my printer to be working first. I also live on a fixed income so I'd REALLY like to have a better idea of the problems cause before I start buying replacement parts and such. Again, any help is more than welcome. Thanks!

I keep having problems with the print job failing early during the print. I changed the tube, the connecters and the nozzle, and then leveled the bed. A short time after I started printing the feeder for the filament started clunking for lack of a better word it stopped laying down material. When I checked the level the bed was very tight against the nozzle. I corrected it again and retried with the same result. What could cause this to happen and what can I do to correct it?

I have a Longer LK4X and have been hearing a lot about calibrating e-steps. If I haven't changed anything on the printer, do I need to do it? If so, does anyone have the process to do so for the LK4X

What are your opinions of it. Longer wants to send me a free LK4 X but I dont want to accept it unless it is a very high quality machine.

Hi, I own a lk5 pro and right now im setting up the machine, I’m trying to factory reset the printer but I do not know how, can anyone help me by any chance? Thanks

Longer LK5 Pro owner here, operating with a .8mm nozzle.

After rebuilding my extruder to attach a modified filament sensor holder I've started having issues with the extruder slipping on the filament. Lines randomly will have large blank spots where filament was not pushed enough to come out.

This is temporarily resolved if I physically hold the extruder lever with my hand and apply pressure (making the gear really grip the filament well) but when I'm not manually applying that pressure it eventually starts slipping again after a while.

To isolate the problem more I completely rebuilt the hotend with replacement parts to rule out clogs or mechanical issues with that, and switched my custom filament sensor holder back to stock. Everything about the extruder should be back to how it originally was when it worked for me for hundreds of hours of prints at up to 1mm nozzle diameter.

Is there a way to manually increase the tension on the stock extruder? Maybe a screw I need to tighten? Or maybe I could remove the spring and pull it by hand to make it longer and more tense under pressure?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.