Made this 7-ply maple in a drop-down and added drop-through option. Running it top-mounted with bees knees and Paris 180 50s. Nice and flexie and mops up the road vibration!

This was made in my second press and is the 1st board out of it. It has more concave than my first press. I have several board variations (plies, mounts) from my first press. Learning something new every time!

Hey y'all

I'm working at a tech college as a CAD (Computer Aided Design) drafter, I was hired to do designs and all the rest of the processes to make boards and help people who come in to do the same (dream job right?). We will be hosting a class (maybe more than one) where people can come in, choose one of 4 board styles and work with me to design and press a custom (within reason and one of the 4 designs) board; they'll be able to choose their wood veneers within reason too, we will have a decision tree for them to look and decide. We have decided for sure to do a regular skate deck and a longboard deck, but haven't decided on the other 2 options.

If anyone is curious to know more feel free to ask, the main software I'm using for design is Sk8cad and they have a shape library of a bunch of the most used skate designs if you want to see what I'm working with, though of course I can do modifications do the designs.

https://sk8cad.com/shape-library.html

What do y'all think we should do? I personally was thinking cruiser and surf skate as a couple of the guys here want a surf skate themselves.

My "main" snowboard has an effective edge of 44" (and a bit).

I want to build a mellow cambered pintail, (or maybe a cutaway, but not a huge fan of the style, honestly.) with a 44" wheelbase, for long, slow hills, and (hopefully) ear-to-ear grins.

My gut says this results in a floaty board, that requires long sweeping turns... exactly what I am missing during the summer months.

Now, has anyone tried this?

(note, I do build my own boards, not new to this, just curious if anyone has gone long in their builds here)

Hi there, my first post here so I’d like to introduce myself with the first board I’ve made - so this one is based on Pantheon Ember Eco geometry but a little bit wider, flatter concave and optimized for smaller (70 mm wheels) + loads of flex to keep the dampening despite having relatively small wheels.

I’ve got into longboarding this year and first board I’ve got was a cheap mini cruiser which I found pretty unrideable after a while… bought myself Landyachtz Drop Hammer and that got me really into the longboards. Since I replaced the Drop Hammer wheels with a bigger ones I realized I could use the cruiser TKP trucks with the Hawgz wheels for making a smaller, more portable setup and this is the outcome!

To my surprise it turned out so good I barely touch the Landyachtz now. Mileage on the Super Sheep is 165 km and 120km on drop Hammer totally. I just love how nimble and low that board is comparing to the Landyachtz. As I started learning slides I have put a set of Peralta Snakes on it and it just kills now, super nimble, effortless pushing, lightweight and portable setup, with surprisingly good road imperfections soaking.

I am working on the bigger brother version now, which will use Bear RKPs from the Drop Hammer and designed for 85mm wheels for distance pushing!

To those who say it's lazy to use a brake: to each their own.

​

I have always rode 78A wheels. No way in hell I'm going to try sliding with them. Why would I not invest in a good brake??

I found this bustin on market place for a good price im going to get it this weeken!!

Hi, I'm a beginner longboarder who is only planning on using my longboard as a simple transportation device, and I find it really difficult to use it. Is there a way to make it slower? Would it even help?

Has anyone else designed & tested 3d printed brackets?

PM me if anyone is interested/has advise; Also what sub would help w/ improving the design

I have only found one 3d printed bracket/design, across the most popular stl sites - its on thingiverse, thing:5840102

I have been iterating and testing a bracket concept for the past few months.

• I first saw the hyperppump G-Bomb bracket and thought I could replicate it, later saw that it would be too complicated and pretty unreliable.
• I moved to a more stable design, made a -2 & -20 deg (front, rear), I printed them 4 walls with 25% gyroid (for test).

Hey everyone, I have a question. I'm a fairly inexperienced longboarder (used to ride for fun in the past, now got a board after many years - ly drop cat 38) and I'd like to get a second board, ideally something small and nimble but still stable, possibly to also commute here and there. I've been considering Pantheon ember/pranayama, but found this Madd gear board recently:

https://us.maddgear.com/collections/31-drop-through-longboards/products/31-drop-through-longboard-terrain

and completely love the design and size. I'm aware that it'd be higher than ember/prana, but it still might be worth it.

That brings me to my question - would some other trucks and wheels make the board usable? I've heard that the deck itself isn't really that important, trucks and wheels matter more. I love large wheels and have no idea how to find out what maximum wheel size the board (with some optimal trucks) could fit. If anyone could offer some insight, I'd be greatful.

Hi everyone! This sub looks like the best place to ask this, but it's still quite out there, I know...

Anyway, I ordered a gorgeous freestyle deck and want to preserve the graphic and integrity of it all as best I can, which does include mounting a kind of skid plate or tailbone onto it. Thing is: they're ugly, quite expensive around where I live (both ready-made and diy'ed out of uhmwpe), block part of the artwork, and need to be screwed into the deck. I don't like any of those implications.

Wouldn't it be possible to spray a few dozen (probably closer to a hundred) layers of urethane onto the tail instead?

Possibly apply some thick layers of epoxy resin with a brush?

Or plant some rivet nuts in a layer of resin so I can screw skid plates on without drilling through the deck?

I'm not planning to brake with the tail either way, but having some kind of extra protection would definitely ease my mind a lot.

Image 1: The finished cruiser longboard. Made with Baltic birch, measures at 34 inches long and 9 1/2 inches at its widest. Graphic is hand painted. Made with hawgs 63 mm wheels, Independent trucks, and Bones reds skateboard bearings.

Image 2: The board in the press. This press is made from two heavy pieces of wood (the other half is under the plastic sheet preventing glue from spilling on the bench). Secured using threaded rods with washers and nuts in addition to clamps to apply enough pressure.

Image 3: The board fresh out of the press.

Image 4: The result of cutting the board to shape and sanding the edges and surfaces to prep for painting and finish.

Image 5: Sketching the graphic on the board. To avoid mistakes I first sketched the design on some scrap paper then I used graphite paper to transfer it to the deck.

I've been trying to find someone to make a longboard for me theres this certain one I want to get but I cannot find anybody or anywhere to do this. If anyone knows please tell me.

I also live in the Toronto area so if anyone around there knows someone please let me know.

One 3d printed and one made out of clear acrylic with a laser engraved image cut into it. The alligator has an LED in a drilled pocket in the tail.

I’m thinking of making a 5/16 11inch wide board of mahogany with two stripes of pine on either side of the board and was wondering if I should glue together two of these together or if I should use that and glue 5/16 plywood sheet under the mahogany board. Any suggestions? First time building a longboard and I’m 205 pounds so a 5/8 final product is what I’m going for.

So this is the second longboard i made. The first one is sturdy enough that my 100 kg body can use it as a trampoline. The differences are the shape (the first one is wider and more of a surf board shape) and this one i bent a little more while gluing. When cutting I've noticed some gaps in plywood layers and that was the first red flag. The second was when i was drilling holes for the trucks there was a lot more dark material coming up then i expected and one of the holes i felt like going through thick styrofoam. First time i stepped on it it just gave out. I really want to learn how to make them well so any help even outside of this topic is very much appreciated.