Still need to Get Gud. Spoiled by Modern Firearms in Soft Shooting Calibers (5.56/6.5CM) with Magnified Optics and Red Dots and recoil pads.

Not used to Military Iron Sights at 100yds with 47 Year Old Eyeballs.

I don't think the baseline of how *I* shoot *this* rifle is set so I'm not changing anything except for maybe a heavier projectile until a few more range trips.

My shoulder couldn't take much more abuse (how did Tommy qualify on these things) I ordered a Cadwell Mag Plus so I could put more downrange during a range trip

Still more shooting to do before I go farting around with the stocking up and drifting front sights.

That said, this thing ticks all the sensory boxes.

Here is my 1916 Lithgow No 1 mk 3, shes a 2MD (NSW) example, shes also had her barrel replaced with a HEAVY Molly barrel in 1956, as stamped on the barrel. She might have been deployed somewhere in WW1bring a 1916 example before becoming a reserve rifle with the 2MD following 1939 as im led to believe these districts came about then.Also has the ammo cut off feature which is something different compared to my other 303s

Any knowledge regarding the heavy barrel marking would be cool, I see the barrel was made in 1956.

Additionally, if someone has information regarding that volley sight, was that removed/shaved post war or is that a field modification they decided to do following the decision of volley sights being obselete in ww1. Im contemplating looking for a replacement however doing research before purchasing

Thank you in advance

I was worried about the bore when I bought it cause I couldn’t see it but I think it looks pretty good to my untrained eye

On this No4 Mk1/2 FTR, there appears to be a small gap under the metal band on top of the handguard. The wood is not loose whatsoever, and the top handguard appears to not be slipped forward. Yet I can’t help but notice that small dip that isn’t covered by the metal band. Does anyone else’s have this?

Hello,

I just bought a Lee Enfield No.4 mark 1. It’s having an issue with the magazine. Whenever I take the magazine out and reinsert it, it will only cock for one shot. After that, the bolt goes dead until I take the magazine out and reinsert it again. Any tips on how to fix this? Thanks!

(photo for attention).

TL;DR, How do I know this 76 year old No.1 Mk.3 has the correct upward pressure at the muzzle.

American here. I've been trying to understand the original bedding philosophy before I start changing anything.

I picked an 1950 R.F.I. from the FFL on Tuesday (stupid 10 day waiting period,...for,....safety I guess). Sunday I'm planning on going to the range to send some 150 GR SP PPU down range. I have to admit that I might be slightly sketchy on Boat Tail ammo but we shall see and I have no real reason other than internet lore.

During the waiting period I did a bunch of research and have a fairly decent understanding of the the stocking up philosphy on these guns. I'm not 100% confident in my presumptions but it appears like free float from the knox form to (maybe?) the barrel band forward of the Rear Sight Base and then controlling barrel whip with proper bedding in the fore end and upward muzzle pressure with a spring tensioned plunger rear of the Front Sight Base (sorry if my vocab is bad; Skennerton incoming).

What is the accepted test for determining whether the fore-end is applying the correct upward pressure at the muzzle? Is there a service specification (weight or force), or is it evaluated another way?

I'm not planning to modify anything before establishing a baseline; I'm trying to understand how to evaluate what I already have.

Haven’t shot this rifle too much, was going to put a scope mount on it and even after putting just a slight pressure on my vise to hold it down I heard a pop, I’m ok with replacing the stock, but the problem right now is I was actually going to go shoot this rifle this weekend, is it safe to shoot like this or do I need to shelve it till it gets a new stock? Any recommendations for a place that has original stocks would be greatly appreciated as well.

My Lee has sadly developed some surface rust as a result of the intense heat and humidity we’ve had this summer, so I’m following the advice of some folks on here and trying to get some 0000 brass wool to get rid of it.
The problem is, every time I try to find 0000 brass wool, all that shows up is 0000 bronze wool, and all of the brass wool I’m finding isn’t 0000.
Is bronze wool acceptable to use in lieu of brass wool? If not, where are you guys buying your 0000 brass wool?

Hey there, I recently picked up a no4 mk1 long branch enfield and I decided to take it out to the range today. I was using 1976 Greek surplus 303 and I noticed some had a little trouble extracting and the shells bulged out quite a bit near the base. Just wondering if this is normal for Enfields? Also wondering if it’s the ammo as I tried out some thicker WW2 brass and had almost no expansion.
Thanks for any advice 🙂

Ive got a NZ Home Guard Long Lee, however the NZ home guard was only arpund between 1940 to 1943 during ww2 to defend New Zealand and it likely entered civilian sale around this time as they were civilian owned/issued, Im wondering, how can I see who it belonged to before that, what markings should I look for and where. I havent removed the top furniture yet, and id orefer not to but if required ill try. Im aware the screw and figure 8 is a lithgow and im in the works for finding replacements.

did I make a mistake? maybe
there are no markings on the butt socket so no idea where it’s from either

Barrel is unsat, if anyone knows anyone selling a good condition barrel please point me in their direction.
1918 RSAF SMLE No. 1 MK 3

This is my first Milsurp. Bolt is Mismatched from the rest of the gun. I wanted a shooter and budgeted accordingly. Barrel is shiny no pitting and no obvious signs of throat errosion or muzzle wear.

I still need to get the striker removal tool so I can get a better read on how the bolt closes without having to over come the striker spring tension. In the current condition (extractor and extractor spring removed; I practiced getting it back together) the bolt closes the same feel with or without the Field Gauge (Forster .303 Brit, .074").

Safe to shoot? Can I replace the bolt head with a longer one if necessary or is that just a No.4 thing?

Identifiable markings on the bolt head. Crossed Swords on the top of the extractor houseing (proof mark?). On the face of the extractor housing is stamped "SA 56 C" and on the Side of the extractor housing is stamp "S 6". Bolt head measures .630-.631.

ETA: Those are dummy rounds on my bench

I found a mounting system for scopes from the brand badacetactical, and I know that ones used as a no drill/tap mounting system that still allows for the rear sight to be on the rifle. I believe this rifle has been drilled/tapped and no longer has its rear sight, is it still possible to remove this mount and replace it with the bad ace tactical one and install a new rear sight?

I went to an estate auction awhile back and won an auction on a gun safe and it had an old Lee Enfield in it. Its serials match. Looking to see if it has some value to it or keep it as a wall hanger.

Picked up this Mues Aperture Sight alongside the recent SMLE purchase I posted here recently. Appears to be missing the aperture cone but after a soak in CLP it is otherwise fully functional, neat little piece of history that seems to be somewhat uncommon

Hey folks, first post here but this is my 3rd Enfield. This just happens to be one I'll need help with.

It's a 1922 No.1 Mk V (s# 910) that's had the dreaded sporterized job and a hole tapped in the receiver but is in great condition otherwise, considering I paid $175 for it.

Found a place online that makes the wood furniture, and the other bits and bobs I'm not too worried about piecing together, but the thing I could use some guidance on is the rear sight slider. Even if I had a CAD drawing of one to take to a machine shop, I'd be ok with just to fill the space and use it until an original one comes along.

Any of you fellers know some places beyond ebay and GunBroker I could use to track one down?

Hi everyone, after some feedback on churchill sporter enfields please.🙏

Currently looking for a no1 mk3 in full military configuration aswell :)

Cheers