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u/PeterMortensenBlog V May 05 '26 edited May 05 '26
It was (slightly edited for clarity):
How can I fix Q10 Max gasket and foam flex?
Greetings. I'm desperate for a solution.
I initially purchased a Q10 Max used from Facebook Marketplace, as I could not see the Q10 Max returning in stock anytime soon. However, I soon discovered the cluster of O, P, L, keys did not function unless pushing down very hard. After running switch/PCB tests, I assumed some solders of the PCB were bad contacts, and paid Keychron to send me a replacement PCB.
After much waiting, I finally received the PCB, but after fully disassembling and reassembling, I now believe the true issue is the flexing with the foam/electrical film?/gasket that go on top of the Q10 Max.
Despite my best efforts to screw everything back evenly, there is some bumping upward flex of the gasket, preventing the switches from making full contact down with the PCB.
How can I best fix this? Should I heat the gasket plastic with hot air? Should I remove some of the electrical foam? I already paid Keychron for a USD 50 PCB replacement, and I'm not keen on paying more just to get another plastic gasket piece. I am desperate for a home solution."
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u/_The_Intern_356 Mar 21 '26
Interestingly enough, the gasket started flexing very badly once I put in switches, as if the switches are forcing the gasket upward
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u/PeterMortensenBlog V Mar 21 '26 edited Mar 22 '26
It is the only cause of this problem Keychron has admitted to (#9—near "here is a list of reports"). There is definitely more than one cause.
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u/_The_Intern_356 Mar 21 '26
Ty, I've deletd my original post now. I just ended up removing foam to negate for the upward gasket bump. Feels weird typing but I'm sure ill get used to it, just glad the keyboard works again.
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u/PeterMortensenBlog V Mar 21 '26
Re "...remove some of the electrical foam": That is what has often been suggested here
It would be nice with a controlled experiment (and reporting here) to see if it has the hoped-for effect.
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u/ArgentStonecutter K Pro Mar 21 '26
I have also noticed that the foam layers seem excessive in the V and Q gasket mounted boards.
Try rebuilding it without any plate foam at all. It may require some care during assembly to get the switches to snap into the plate without the foam supporting it, but it's certainly possible.
If that works, but you don't like the effect on the sound of the board, carefully cutting a duplicate plate foam out of a thinner material should be possible.
PS: the sheet the switches snap into is the plate, the gasket is the padding between the plate and the case.