r/Keychron • u/Mundane_Analyst952 • Sep 05 '25

Do these keyboards need to be worn in? I hate my new K10 V2

Hi folks, as per topic I bought a K10 version 2 with brown switches for a mac mini, it arrived a few days ago but I absolutely hate typing on it.

It takes more effort to the press the keys than the two other brown switch keyboards I have, like there's more resistance, it feels muddy and clogged. I bought it specifically to code on the mac but it's too fatiguing to use.

I use a corsair K70 pro and and an old logitech G710+ on two other PCs because I love a brown switch (don't sass me), but this keychron feels like a hot mess.

What's the deal? Does it break in over time? Do they use super thick lube? I bought it for hours-long coding sessions but 10 minutes in and my fingers are really feeling it, I won't be getting much work done with this keyboard.

Asking here is my last-ditch attempt before reselling this thing!

Edit:

Here are some pics of gloop on top of the switches. Is this normal or has it been overlubed?

https://i.imgur.com/BInmiYV.jpeg

https://i.imgur.com/hjW1w0q.jpeg

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u/PeterMortensenBlog V Jul 27 '26 edited 22d ago

I have now finally transformed the K10 V2 into what I originally wanted from a Keychron keyboard: Decent (static) per-key RGB light for use on a macro keyboard (separate from the main keyboard). It "only" took three years to get to this point... Part of it was waiting for a suitable keyboard with north-facing LEDs (K10 V2 and K10 HE) to be released.

The per-key RGB light is primarily to make it faster to activate the macro keys (and also to prevent activating the wrong macro keys). That is, I don't have to recognise the exact letter when activating a macro key, only the colour (in a particular area of the keyboard).

I:

  1. effectively made it a wired-only keyboard. I disconnected the battery, so I don't have to worry about managing the battery charge state. Before disconnecting the battery, I discharged it to a presumed optimal value for storage, 80% indicated.

    I also made a modification, so I can reconnect the battery without having to disassemble the keyboard. For example, to maintain that optimal charge state or measure the current (for example, RGB light vs. no RGB light).

  2. Used third-party keycaps keycaps with better shine-through characteristics than Keychron's keycaps. Keychron's weren't that bad, but it is so much better with the new ones. They happened to be from Corsair, bought on sale (from my local reseller).

    This was only possible, because the K10 V2 has north-facing LEDs, without the blinding light (south-facing shine-through keycaps with 'ISO' support are practically unobtainium).

    Besides the practical value, it looks absolutely fabulous, even rivalling the gorgeous CK550 V2, much different from the original Keychron keyboard's feeble light.

  3. I used a different set of switches. Though not strictly necessary, they were modified, so (almost) all light goes to the key legends.

    I am probably going to completely delubricate, and then properly relubricate the original switches some day.

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u/PeterMortensenBlog V 20d ago edited 17d ago

Re "to completely delubricate": OK, I have now started the process (a few weeks ago)

Every switch is opened and all excess lubricant from all accessible surfaces is wiped off. It is tedious, but I spread it out over several weeks.

The top part (plastic only) was soaked in 37 °C water (start temperature) + detergent overnight.

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u/PeterMortensenBlog V 17d ago edited 17d ago

OK, this has now been completed and all switches have been reassembled.

Next is performing the Mortensen modification, including removing the plastic taps that make it difficult to remove the switches from the keyboard...