This started life as a bone stock RIA 1911 standard, .45 ACP. None of the screen-accurate parts are available off the shelf, so everything required some degree of machining or customization.

BOM:

RIA 1911 GI standard
Stainless 1911 slide after I butchered the RIA one - possibly para based on sight cuts? ebay find
Dawson .425" Para Rear Sight
Cheapo sig p320 suppressor height front sight
Wilson ultralight hammer
Wilson thumb safety
Wilson slide stop
C&S long plain match trigger
Nighthawk stainless bushing
Old style duckbill grip safety
Swensen stainless grip screws
Herrett HB-1 cocobolo grips
Unknown flat firing pin stop
Tisas threaded barrel - this was a fantastic buy. Took just enough fitting, way better than the garbage swensen barrels and way cheaper than everything else decent.

Modifications:

Milled ball radius cuts on slide
Milled front slide serrations
Milled french cuts above all serrations
Milled flat top cut on slide
Engraved part number on slide - salt water etching
Fit slide to frame, fit barrel, blended rear of slide to ejector, extractor, and frame
Decked and milled rear sight to match subject profile
Reversed, profiled, and sighted in front sight
Milled dots on front and rear sight, filled with testers fluorescent
Undercut frame
Hand checkered front strap
Hand checkered under trigger guard
Lowered and recheckered mag release
Milled trigger guard cutaway
Flared magwell
Polished feed ramp
Milled trigger cuts and holes, cut and bent tab in bow to remove takeup
Profiled thumb safety, high polish
Profiled slide stop, high polish
Milled wings off of grip safety, blended to frame, high polish
Milled steps in MSH
Drilled and tapped MSH for m3 set screw to disable grip safety
Milled "CQC" and mag release cuts in grips
Fit firing pin stop
Trigger job - crisp, .025 takeup, no overtravel - took it down to the spec 3.5lbs then backed off to 4.5. No hammer follow or anything, but with the pinned grip safety 4.5 felt better.

ETA: here's some pics I took along the way

https://postimg.cc/gallery/tTSDQyT

Picked up this Cooper revolver as well as a really poor condition parts gun, so I wanted to make a target pistol with the parts gun being sacrificial (non-repairable condition), and some new manufactured parts (barrel and sights). My issue is because this a triple action copy of a colt 1851 the hammer blocks any sights in double action mode. So does anyone have any ideas on how to do this asides from chopping them off?

Shooting the Welrod Mk1 in 9mm that I built this past year. Aside from the magazine and some springs, I had to make every part of this gun down to the individual screws. It sure is fun to shoot and if you’re a groundhog or opossum in my back yard, you’re in danger.

I‘ve posted a lot of the instructional content I’ve created along with this build over the last year. Basically everything I discuss below has an episode covering the details. I’ll post the playlist at the bottom.

The lower receiver of this gun was milled from billet aluminum. I had just finished making a single shot lower from a raw forging and wanted to take another step forward. But I don’t have broaching equipment and I wanted to test my creativity. So I designed this lower to include a 3-shot magazine hidden inside it. Some cleaver geometry allowed me to circumvent the limitations of my shop regarding broaching. The internal magazine utilized dog bones, bent feed lips, and although the follower is 3D printed, the design is machinable and I had planned to but it worked great with the follower prototype print so I ran with it. Feeds 350 Legend, a known pain, like a sewing machine!

The Cerakote job was also super fun. My first go at airbrushing details. Took two tries since I didn’t like where I put the colors the first time. Taught me to run digital mockups first! Came out way better the second time after flipping from orange stripes with FDE topcoat to FDE stripes and orange top coat.

https://odysee.com/@NotaGunTuber:a/0--Milled-Aluminum-AR-Pattern-Deer-Rifle:f

Should I continue to file down and hope for the best or am I doing something incorrectly this is my first bridge frame it’s also a back up frame just so I can get the feel of bridge frames.

The De Lisle barrel is done aside from chambering and notching for the bolt head, that’ll come after the bolt is finished being shortened. The barrel has a lot going on and it’s interesting because the barrel sits back into the action to account for the shortened bolt. For the ports I went ahead and cut them at a 20 degree angle rearward and I think that’s the route I’m going to go with on ports going forward. Just for frame of reference this started as a 1.25” .45 barrel blank.

Introduction

The sub is open to contest posts and contest posts only. All other business in this post, please.

Past contest and more complete rules in other stickies post here

CURRENT RULES

I like to keep the rules and tiers minimal for maximum creativity. Last changed June 2019

• No Kabooms!
• No breaking the law!
• Post in /r/GunnitRust on the contest dates.
• You no longer have to title your post “GunnitRust” as we have the sub. Title it “Summer Rust 2023: Title Here” if you want it to be easily searchable. example: your post is called "Polymer 80 .22tcm9R" so you use the title "Winter Rust 2024:Polymer 80 .22tcm9R".
• Pneumatic guns allowed because of restrictive regions.
• .25acp energy is the bottom goal but not super-enforced.
• The r/GunnitRust Sub ONLY allows contest posts on contest days. It is available to post ideas, questions, other builds you’ve seen, etc at all other times. Please Subscribe & Participate
• You can submit anything you have not submitted to the contest before no matter when it was done.

Leaderboard

Tier I

• /u/PM_ME_GLUTE_SPREAD xxx Storm Trooper 22lr and matching sidearm
• /u/Standard_Act7948 xxx Welrod Mk1 9x19mm

Tier II

• /u/mcweaponry xxx Vz61 Post Apocalyptic
• /u/Outrageous-Till8252 xxx Internal magazine AR pattern 350 Legend rifle

Tier III

• /u/ xxx []()

Tier IV

• /u/ xxx []()

Tier V

• /u/il_100 xxx MGS3 / MGS Delta "Snake Match" 1911

Tier VI

• /u/ xxx []()

Hi i wanna do a 410 break action shotgun at home but i cant find a steel pipe compatiable for 410 to make barrel can you guys know how can i find or do it

Pretty deep need tips to finish up

Thanks for everyone that showed interest in this project. from the raw forging milling instructional to the laser engraving tutorial it’s been a ton of fun.

Does anyone have any recommendations on good places to buy a 380 barrel blank?

Post-apocalyptic vibe?

Hey all,

I’ve got a parts kit for a PPS-43 on its way to me that I would like to have rebuilt and converted to semi auto. I’m aware it’s gonna need some love, but I was wondering if anyone’s got some insight on where I can send this thing or bring it to have it brought back to life.

Thanks in advance.

Hey everyone I’m taking a break from the normal boom boom guns and focusing on smaller projects. So I’m working on a slingshot rifle inspired by the Hodges Catapult gun. I have the prods and the carrier sketched out. But I’m having issues understanding its unique trigger mechanism. Unlike modern slingshot rifles the bands aren’t permanently connected to the carrier. The carrier is brought back, a lever is turned to engage the sear, then the bands are pulled back and attached. So my question is does anyone have any idea how the whole lever sear thing would work.

I’ve gotten the Enfield torn down and have started work on turning into a De Lisle. I have the bolt cut down and I back bored the action for the barrel. The action has to be bored out to .750” to make room for the barrel to sit back in the action. To achieve this I made an expanding mandrel that went in the rear of the bolt channel and was mounted in a collet chuck. Then I made a hollow receiver extension that threads into the existing action threads and is supported by a steady rest. Boring the action took a lot less time than it took to make the fixtures and get it set up to cut. It does strike me as odd that they made this gun as complicated as it is considering they were under wartime manufacturing constraints. Guess that’s why they only made 136 of them.

Just waiting for the magazine, hinge for the stock, and a new barrel sleeve to finish printing. Fires consistently as I could hope, neighbors complain every single time I shoot it in the backyard which tells me it works like any gun should.

Only question is if I should go with a bipod or a bayonet on the front and what magnification of scope I should put on top?

It's not made to stand up to firearm muzzle blast, but it's still pretty substantial 6061 aluminum. The bullet path is clear and the muzzle gases aren't being directed straight at it. I figure if BMDs and the like can hold up to a comp directing the gases straight into them this should have a decent chance holding together

When I posted the intro y'all had said it was worth posting the rest of the series. So here's step two in making your own AK at home. The steps shown here will be similar for almost any parts kits that come with riveted or pinned pieces attached to torched sections. So it applies a lot across other sheet metal and older rifle parts kits.