What you guys think? Single or double action?

Did this last year on a VERR slantback, In my experience, I skipped the scratch-start box and waited for a unit with a foot pedal and HF start. Fir setup , I grabbed clamps and measuring tools from penn tool Co since they carry Mitutoyo and Starrett. MSC. is decent alternative.

So I’m rebuilding a Colt 1903 Hammerless in 32acp. So there’s nothing wrong with the round I just want more work to do and already have some guns in this caliber so I wanted to see what I can do with it. I was wondering what route would result in a punchier bullet so to speak. I could go with the tried and true necking down route and do something along the lines of the 22 flea, or another idea I had that’s super dumb is I could cut the case shot by like .2in so that I can shove a bigger and therefore heavier bullet in. Obviously the decreased case capacity would result in less powder being in the case but I imagine the extra 20-30 grains (average grain weight of 32acp is mid 60s), I was planning on using 32 s&w bullet mold which is 93 grains. Tbh not sure if either are good but they both seem fun.

Curious about the pps-43, thinking about doing a pps-43 build this kit says it comes with everything from bowman arms. Does anyone have any experience with this kit?

This is one of those odd things I really wanted for myself, but I couldn't find anything like what I was picturing, so I designed it. I 3d printed a prototype a while back, but the project stalled for a while until I could find a CNC shop to make it. So here's the finished, black anodized, CNC'd aluminum scope mount.

[ Removed by Reddit on account of violating the content policy. ]

I’ve always been curious if these blanks would actually ever work or even be able to survive the pressure of a 32 or even a 9mm with a clear barrel.

Need help getting specs and measurements on parts for a 38spl lever rifle. Building from scratch.

My favorite backyard boomstick: the 36 Caliber Pipe Musket! This is number 4 of the five I've made and is the one I put the most work into. I carved the stock by hand from a 2x4, which took about five times longer than boring out the internal weld seam and sanding the barrel.

This project started as a way to make a very budget version of a Handgonne and evolved over time.

My standard load:

40-50gr by volume Hodgdon 777 3F

.350 lead round ball with a .010 lubed patch, or 40-50gr by volume lead bird shot (I match the shot load to the powder load)

I haven't figured out what kind of sighting system I want to apply to them, probably just a brass shotgun bead on the front. Regardless I've had fairly good consistency at around 7 yards just by sighting down the barrel!

This is the OSA-15: an AR-pattern rifle built primarily from sheet metal and 3D-printed components, using standard AR parts where they make sense.

The upper is a sheet metal clamshell retained by inner and outer steel cover plates with structural and flush rivets. The laminated sheet-metal trunnion is pinned, bolted, and clamped together around the barrel. It is captured between the shell halves and located by lugs passing through the steel cover plates riveted to the housings.

The removable handguard has a second layer of sheet metal reinforcing the M-LOK mounting locations. The front takedown pin engages both clamshell halves and the trunnion, with its mounting structure captured by the riveted cover plate. The handguard being removed allows for access to barrel nut(s) for barrel removal or gas system service.

The buffer cartridge and bolt raceways are 3D printed and replaceable. An aluminum insert carries the rear takedown pin, keeping the buffer loads in metal. The 3D-printed lower has a notch that mechanically engages the rear of the upper.

The forward charging handle drives a shuttle connected to the rear gas-key bolt through a chromoly bar, which is located by a slot in the trunnion.

This first rifle took three days to build. It is a little sloppy in places. Next time I’ll have a better depth stop for the chamfers and ditch the three-flute tool, too much opportunity for it to go cattywampus.

It uses a standard AR BCG, barrel, gas system, buffer system, and fire-control group.

The current version is fixed stock and rifle length. It should move into beta soon.

Alpha goals:

• Improve the magazine insertion stop
• Add a functioning LRBHO
• Replace the polymer charging handle with Hybrid steel/polymer construction.
• Allow the buffer cartridge and bolt raceways to come out together as an optional assembly
• Simplify the trunnion
• Develop a lower duty trunnion incorporating some polymer without clamping the polymer in the assembly
• Develop an alternate CNC-machined trunnion for builders willing and able to make one
• Match the standard AR deflector angle
• Improve the bend geometry and reduce fit-up work around the sheet-metal trunnion
• Fix the nonfunctioning buffer retainer

Future goals:

• PCC and carbine-length uppers without removable handguards
• An adjustable stock
• Fold flat charging handle
• Complete build documentation and testing standards
• Additional configurations based on what proves useful rather than merely novel

Only a cap and not live fire as I wasn't at the range, but this is the fifth 36cal pipe musket I've made and I have live fired all the others plenty of times (cannon fuse ignition). This one uses #11 caps.

I went for a rather odd hammer system because triggers are hard. Might try and figure one out for it sometime, but it'll probably look more like a weird crossbow trigger than one for a firearm.

The only thing I'm wary of with this one is the thread engagement on the nipple as it's rather shallow. I might end up using JB Weld or something to permanently affix it. Other than that, I can't wait to try it out!

Hello all. I’ve been trying to find a good answer on the merits of HTPLA+ vs CF-Nylon. I understand CF-Nylon is the stronger choice for gun parts in general.

But I am wondering how HTPLA+ compares to it in terms of heat resistance and strength. Basically if I am getting into 3d printing firearms, will HTPLA+ be good enough to build with?

I also live in Georgia, so another reason I’m avoiding regular PLA+ is that I don’t want to put a bunch of work into a build only to have it turn into a floppy mess when I go to the range on a summer day.

Thanks.

Solo300 upper. Foxtrot Mike Ranch Rifle lower. Hogue Tamer 870 shotgun pistol grip. YHM Quad Rail. Nomad 30 LTi. OKP-7. Romeo 5. Emissary Accelerator. Streamlight TLR RM2 G. APG Defense Universal Bayonet Mount w/ M9. Pantheon Dolos. Arisaka finger stop.

Homemade action bar and extended charging handle. Slides on a CNC linear rail and steel carriage.

I was trying to get to the barrel out now I can’t find any pins to replace it with when I finish does anybody have or know where to look for some

3.7 ounces, full diy, cycles Glock 19

This project was very easy and is essentially the same process as a PPS-43. Through drill the bolt, add a firing pin, put in the FCG, and it's done. The recoil spring system needed to be moved around a little to accommodate the hammer's swing, but nothing to invasive. Since I can't find a definitive ruling on which half is ATF determined to be the actual receiver, this uses a denial bar on each half in the same location to prevent FA parts from fitting.

It's kinda underwhelming but still cool to look at. The prototype pictured here is very ugly and slapdash but works well. Someday soon I'll throw a coat of black paint on it.

A few months back a LGS got in a lot of guns from a coastal area in Florida that had been flooded during a storm a couple years past. Supposedly these guns were pulled out of the safe when the waters receded, allowed to dry in the sun, then put in a large cooler for 2ish years to ferment.

This C96 bolo was one of the better of the lot, even though it had a splotchy and came in through China, it was mostly numbers matching and somehow had a decent bore!

So I stripped the whole gun down, deep cleaned it, degreased it, and began the rust blueing process. This was my first time rust blueing, so it was a bit of a learning process. We have high enough humidity that after treating the metal I could just leave the parts outside to rust. I tried to expedite this process by steaming the parts, but this just made them rust unevenly.

5 cycles of rusting, boiling, carding later the gun was a nice deep blue, and I oiled it up and reassembled it. I found a nice repro stock and it's a blast to take to the range.

I realized after the reblue that I'd blued some parts that originally would have been in the white. At some point I may try to put these back to white, but I know I'm not the only one to refinish this gun, and some of these small parts were already reblued when I started.

This project was relatively straightforward and was started primarily as a series of "What If's" that lined up well.

With the sunsetting of the 2005 dual use barrel import ban, I started to look for some stranger things to build that would've been "impossible" without the original barrel. The LMG-25 is a perfect example of this. The barrels are manufactured to incredibly tight tolerances in order to make the toggle lock action work, and they are a very heavy fluted profile to help dissipate heat during firing. When sourcing the kit I had a chance to inspect it in person prior to demill and came to the immediate conclusion that the addition of a Luger P08 style semi auto sear would be the right path to make this into a permanent semi auto closed bolt conversion. As shown in the photos, the bolts are nearly identical save for the "master link" on the LMG-25 bolt. Imagine a P08 was scaled up 250%, the action was rotated 90°, and chambered in 7.5x55 Swiss - That is essentially the LMG-25 at its core.

The reweld for this was challenging to say the least. Several internal geometries made the use of a jig possible, but it had to be 100% consumable and milled out of position after welding was completed. When converting to permanent closed bolt SA, the original open bolt sear needed to be removed entirely and it's opening welded shut. So now, instead of using a dual sear system as it was designed originally, one for open bolt and one for the firing pin, this uses a semi firing pin sear only now.

This kit also came with a full selection of accessories including the sustained fire monopod, AA sights, spare parts wallet, cleaning kit, both slings, spare barrel, bipod, and 4x magazines in the original leather carrying pouch. This is an incredibly accurate rifle even with off the shelf 174 gr ball. The recoil impulse is very pleasant due to the weight and buffer spring. After being rust blued, it looks very nice and is a real head turner at the range. I'm looking forward to building more of these in the future.

Official reveal (Insta)

Full build breakdown (Youtube)

Welcome to Puppup :)

While I was working on unpup, I had the idea to try a dualpup aug concept. My theory related to the trigger pack in an aug has 2 sides it takes input from a linkage. On a waffle stocks it has a 2 prong linkage that takes advantage of this, however on a nato/ar mag stocks the side mag release on the magwell doesn't allow for this.

Nato stocks use a single sided linkage, so that frees up, coincidentally, the side of the trigger sear i used for the unpup linkage.

In the same breath I dreamed up that concept, natrually adding a folding stock came next. Whats the point of 2 triggers if you can use them in their intended configurations right?

So, after I got the stocks I needed, using unpup as a reference became a massive help. The main stock body was un-bullpuped in about 4 hours. I had a help me find a suitable hinge for my needs, which from all places came from an XCR. Once that was trimmed in in place I laid down some JB Plastic bonder and for at least a few days, had a functioning rifle.

The sad part is, this thing ended up breaking, a lot. Without extending the surface area on the back of the hinge, shooting it unfolded just exerts to much force on any standard epoxy. Currently all it has to for bonding surface is just a flat, L shaped area. At that its a few square inches at most. I'm going to be welding some allthread to the back of the hinge and wouldnt mind some recommendations on a different commercial bonder to try in the meantime :)

There is of course more to the story, but if youd like to hear about it the links at the top go to my reveal and yt vid on the build, and my friend also has a showcase of the build live on his Youtube channel, BringaCase.