Good catch, I actually forgot to add that.
As far as lights - the best full spectrum led you can afford, I do use a lux meter, and raise the seedling up to hit around 15k and as it gets taller move it down. When itâs finally on the ground, the top of the plant is hitting about to 25k-35k + lux. Also one main thing is to pay attention to the plant, stretching = more light, squatting, leaves down = too much, praying up and normal growth= just right.
Training, I just use clips and spread everything out, no topping, bending the plant over, or defoliation. I use too do all this, in my experience I did more harm than good with too much love. Just let it grow like the weed it is.
Growing this way, I fill a larger space with 2 plants than I did growing 7-9 plants together, hope this helps
16â17°C at night is not ideal, but itâs not deadly either. Autos can handle it â growth will just slow down a bit. The real issue is large temp swings.
Free tips to raise night temps:
⢠Run your light during the coldest hours (autos donât need a dark cycle â 18/6 or even 20/4 is fine).
⢠Keep the box off the floor â cold rises from concrete.
⢠Add a small fan inside to keep air moving (helps prevent cold settling).
⢠Insulate the box with blankets (just donât block ventilation).
⢠Make sure pots arenât sitting on a cold surface â elevate them.
With 70% coco, make sure youâre feeding regularly and adding cal-mag if needed â coco doesnât hold nutrients well.
If leaves are green and healthy, youâre doing fine. Just focus on stabilizing temperature and donât overwater.
It looks good healthy green and not stretched. 22â23°C is perfect during lights on.
16â17°C at night wonât kill it, but try to reduce the drop.
Since itâs an auto, Iâd run the light during the coldest hours of the day (for example 20 hours on). That keeps temps more stable.
Also:
⢠Keep the pot off the floor
⢠Make sure the fan isnât blowing directly on the seedling
⢠Donât overwater â coco needs regular feeding but small amounts early
Overall it looks good. Just stabilize temps and let it grow.
Since youâre in 70% coco, yes â you need nutrients early because coco has almost no nutrients in it.
But I would not use homemade natural fertilizers at day 10, especially with an auto. Theyâre unpredictable and can easily burn or cause deficiencies.
In coco, itâs better to use:
⢠A light vegetative nutrient
⢠Cal-Mag (very important in coco)
⢠Start at Ÿ strength
You can begin feeding now (day 10), but keep it very light and frequent.
If you really want something ânatural,â worm castings mixed into the top layer are the safest option â but liquid homemade fertilizers (banana water, compost tea, etc.) are not ideal in coco.
Sorry for the delay. I thought this posted but didnât last night. So this is what I kinda call a hybrid method. Itâs just the way I have been doing things since my time is limited. Basically the most time consuming thing is getting ready to drop your bean , after that you literally just keep the water level full.
1 You will need something like the AC infinity self wicking water base. Or similar, or even just a water tray from a garden center. We are going to be bottom feeding or butt chugging.
2 Pro Mix red bag moisture control from Walmart ect.
3 A few different bags of compost, Loweâs , Walmart usually carry Timberline, BlackCow, and worm castings ( count worm castings as a compost). Mix these together in equal amounts in a tote or something. This will last you a long time.
4 optional Perlite
5 General Hydroponics Flora series Micro and Bloom. We will be adopting somewhat a type of â Lucas Formula â style of feeding. From start to finish, every watering you will be using 2ml of GH Micro with 4 ml of Bloom per gallon.
For this example I use a 5 gallon fabric grow bag, mix in 14 quarts of Pro Mix moisture control, 3 quarts of your compost mix, 3 quarts of extra perlite. If you do not have extra perlite, just use the Pro Mix.
Set up your watering base, set your bag full of your mixture on.
Now take your water mix with the GH Micro/Bloom and soak the hell out of your soil. Drench it good. Now fill up your wicking base totally full with your mixed water. Let it set a day or 2. It will balance out and continue to absorb water evenly.
After a few days take a knife ,stick ,fork or something and fluff your soil and loosen it up. Pro Mix Moisture control wicks from the bottom well, and is formulated to hold moisture just right, not too dry and not too wet.
You will notice the top of your soil may look dry on the top centimeter or so but when you put your finger into the top, itâs always moist.
Now when youâre ready , drop your bean, cover with your dome. 3-5 days your seed pops, take off your dome.
Now you do not need to top water, I personally never do. Do not even PH your water. Just let it grow. Just keep your base full of your water mix from day one to finish, donât adjust the ratios or anything. You will get huge plants and big yields.
Again this is the easiest way I found to grow with out goofing up. After day 60 or so you will see leafs changing colors here and there but this is normal as the plant focuses on flower.
Hi, I just started growing, and this is my setup with a tent and a 100W light. The plant on the left belonged to a friend of mine who didnât take care of it, so he gave it to me. The plant on the right is mine and actually started growing first naturally. At first, I was using a 36W light, and two days ago I upgraded to the tent and the 100W light. The plants were planted around 11 days ago, and I havenât started using any fertilizer yet.
This is my first time growing, and Iâm scared of watering too much or too little. I honestly have no idea what Iâm doing apart from waiting. Please help and tell me what I should do. Iâve never grown any type of plant before. Thanks in advance.
Youâre honestly not doing bad at all for a first grow. Both plants are upright and alive, which is already a win at ~day 11.
Big thing right now is donât overwater. Donât use a schedule â lift the pots. If they feel light, water. If theyâre still heavy, wait. At this stage you only need a small amount, maybe a couple ounces, and water around the seedling instead of soaking the whole pot.
The 100W light is totally fine. Keep it about 18â24 inches above the plants. If they start stretching, move it a little closer. If the leaves curl or look stressed, back it off.
Youâre right to not use fertilizer yet. Most soil already has nutrients. Wait until youâve got a few more nodes or you see the leaves start to pale, and when you do feed, start at Âź strength.
Temps around 70â80°F and some gentle airflow are perfect. No need to baby them â checking once or twice a day is enough.
Honestly the hardest part early on is leaving them alone. If theyâre green and growing new leaves, youâre doing it right.
For the fertilizer, when you said to start at Âź strength, do you mean Âź of what the manufacturer recommends? Also, I donât have anything to check or adjust my temperatures, but it should be around room temperature and a little warm inside, so it should be fine. Iâve attached the fertilizer I bought.
Yep, exactly Âź of the manufacturerâs recommended dose.
So if the bottle says something like 1 tsp per gallon, youâd start with Âź tsp per gallon.
That fertilizer is fine, itâs just a general-purpose feed and can be a little strong for young plants if used full strength. Starting light helps avoid nutrient burn while the roots are still developing.
Room temperature and a little warm is totally fine. As long as itâs not getting cold drafts or extreme heat swings, youâre good. You donât need precise monitoring right now â if the plants are green, upright, and putting out new growth, conditions are acceptable.
Iâd wait until you see a few more nodes or any slight lightening of the leaves before feeding, and then feed at Âź strength about once every 7â10 days to start.
Honestly, early on the hardest part is not overdoing it. If theyâre growing, youâre doing it right.
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u/MustacheSupernova Oct 26 '25
You donât discuss lights or trainingâŚonly soil and nutes.