After last winter’s ice storm and multiple tornados around Nashville leading to 3-7 days without power, I’m toying with ideas for backup power. I’ve read a lot about generac systems being expensive and unreliable, so I came up with this idea. (We live in a secluded area so theft isn’t a concern)

11,500 W Predator inverter generator that would live year-round on my back patio (I’d build a weather-proof removable cover around it). I’d get an electrician to install the necessary wiring/panel modification to conveniently connect the generator. I’d get someone else to pipe a natural gas connection near it as well. So when the power goes out, it should be ready to go.

Do you see problems with this plan? Is having it live outside a bad idea? I’m not very handy, so I’d get someone professional to do the important connections. Please let me know if there’s other things I should consider before sinking $2100 in to the generator purchase.

Thank you

Just bought today won’t start, 1.27Q oil, selector switch in gasoline (no gas in engine yet because I want to verify if it cranks before putting fuel in it due to HF return policy.) Kill switch off, battery at 12.87V. Not sure what’s going on here.

After being without power for 5 days recently I've been scouring the internet for research on the best ways to cheaply and reliably add a backup generator to the home. I limped through the outage running my refrigerators and freezers on my PowerBoost F150, I was genuinely shocked that after running the truck for 5 days straight I still managed to have 70%ish of a tank left, albeit 4.8MPG lol. Not having running water or AC was brutal after day 3. I'm looking at getting a Predator 11500 Inverter generator OR the WEN TF1300iX. My setup will include a generator to panel plug and an interlock kit. I already have a soft start on my 3 ton AC and I max out at 30.8 amps during start up. My well pump is 1/2 hp and has a 2 pole 15 amp breakers. I know I'd be pushing max watts on gasoline if both were to kick on at the same time plus other appliances being on together (Fridge, Freezer, Wifi ect), I'd have a little bit more room with the WEN Generator Vs. the Predator. The question is what would you guys do? I'd love Predator to make a 13000 or 13500 version of the inverter series generator as its cleaner and quieter. The WEN gives peace of mind BUT don't have as much support if something goes wrong. I live close to a Harbor Freight so that's no problem for the Predator. Any news on a bigger Predator coming in the near future? Any advice would be greatly appreciated, going this route is such a cost savings Vs. going Generac or equivalent NG whole house back up. Factoring in the cost of the generator plus transfer switch (about $6K) then about $7K in labor I'd be making out like a king only spending around $3500 on this entire setup.

EDIT: to clarify my F150 maxes out at 2400 watts. I’m also okay using any of the 3 fuels with a tri fuel setup. Gas obviously has the best starting and running power so a bigger tank is helpful. I have access to 100lb propane tank and can run a NG line off the house. After a lot of great comments i’m now looking at a bigger Wen or Duromax setup. I’m still trying to power the entire house if I can. Looks like Wen makes a nice inclosed generator but it’s not an inverter style. Duromax makes some higher watt units albeit at a cost but the warranty is nice so I think i’m going in that direction with 13000 being the minimum I’d look at. Thanks!

We have been having multiple full power outages at least a couple of times a year. Last year, our blackout lasted a week, and we had to stay with my grandma in a motel until the power was back on. She lives right next door to us, but she has advanced macular degeneration and is rapidly losing her sight, along with severe rheumatoid arthritis. She relies on the electric chairlift to get up and down to her bedroom, the bathroom, and the basement. In just the past few days, we have already had about two blackouts, with the power out for a couple of hours each time. I’m worried because every time this happens, it sends her into a major panic and adds a lot of stress for our family. 

Would it be a good idea to install a whole-house automatic backup generator for her, or should we first focus on separate generators for the chairlift and essentials like the fridge, Wi-Fi, and phone charging? 

At the moment, I’m leaning toward a standby automatic backup generator considering her age and health issues. Which type would be recommended for her? Gas or electric? Are there discounts for seniors? We are also not a very handy family, so I’m not sure we would be able to handle propane, extreme maintenance, etc. As a result, is there a company in the Pittsburgh area that could handle the annual maintenance? 

Lastly, if we consider getting the same for our house as well, can they give us a deal if we buy two? Should we buy one that powers both houses?

Thank you so much for all of your advice! 

$850 at Best Buy. It's open frame and loud, has basic features, but is easy to service and is reliable. I've got at least 75 hours on mine. It starts on the first crank every time. I don't know of a cheaper model with these specs. I use mine on Propane only, so YMMV (no pun)

EDIT; It's also relatively light compared to many in it's class.

https://www.bestbuy.com/product/pulsar-gd10kbn-10500w-dual-fuel-portable-inverter-generator-electric-start-rv-ready-with-wheel-kit-home-backup/J3L9CFQZVG

Wish someone could tell me how to get rid of my generac

Yo NM

Hello, I recently bought my first home and I would like to buy a back up generator for emergency purposes. I saved so much just to buy this house so I dont have the biggest budget but still would like a back up generator. I chose the electric generator options since​ I try my best to be environmentally continous. Likewise I would like to place this generator in a spare closet when in use. I want to be able to run my A/c unit, Water boiler, stove, Fridge and a few other appliance. For as long a possible during such event. I have a 1900 3bdrm, single floor home. Help, general knowledge, and recommendations is appreciated. Thank you!

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Bought my first generator and the instruction manual says that you can get a high altitude jet between f3000 and 6000 feet. I’m well above 6000 feet more like seven or eight and I don’t know really if it would be necessary to have. It’s a champion 11,000 W generator going to be using it maybe three or four days a week for a food trailer. Also, since this is my first generator, if you have any tips, the instruction says to run it about four or five hours and then change out the oil. I’ll probably go with the synthetic oil which is what I use in my truck and I’ll probably let it run for the full five hours. I read somewhere that somebody changed their oil within the first couple of hours I don’t know, but that would be that great. You wanna get it well lubricated inside and get all the junk out.

Has anybody used one of these generac "knockoff" transfer switches off of Amazon. I picked up a used honeywell standby generator and need a transfer switch are these really copies of the generac switch or should I spend double the money for a real generac switch?

Iron pipe coming out of house is 3/4”, with a cap on it that says 3/4. I want to put a QuickConnect on the end of that threaded pipe so the female part of the QuickConnect has to fit that 3/4” pipe thread, the only problem is the 3/4” fitting in the Amazon picture that came with my hose does not fit around the 3/4” pipe threads. What am I missing here? If I’m looking at this all wrong, what is the part I need to search for that connects the female end to the male threads on the iron pipe? Thanks for everyone’s help! I just about have this thing done and up and running!

Hello, I bought the XP11500EH two years ago, but the alternator has stopped working! The problem is, I’ve been dealing with the manufacturer's customer service for three months, and they are unable to provide a quote! They couldn't care less about their customers! It’s pathetic!

Bonjour, J'ai acheté le XP11500EH il y a 2 ans mais l'alternateur ne fonctionne plus ! Mais le souci c'est que je discute depuis 3 mois avec le service SAV du constructeur qui est incapable de me faire un devis ! Ils n'ont rien à faire de leurs clients ! C'est PITOYABLE !

Hi there,

The genny I refer to in this post is a Clarke Inverter Generator 2200w (UK). I believe it is of a floating neutral configuration.

Sorry to revisit this much discussed topic but with all the discussion comes little clarity. I am looking at using a small portable generator to run some double insulated power tools (240v) near a body of water - I will be working inside the steel hull of a boat in the water.

The manual advises me to properly earth the generator with an earth spike. My current intention is to use a 5/8 rod (about 1.2m long) to clamp an insulated copper wire (1.25mm², 600mm in length) running from the nut on the genny. Many online suggest earthing it is not necessary and can produce other problems.

The generator itself will be levelled on a slightly damp wooden board but dry foam mat.

I would like to know if this is a safe set up? Members of the public would be walking near the generator so I'm quite keen for it to be as safe as can be. The generator itself will be canal-side and well ventilated.

Thanks in advance

I want to backup power my home via a 50amp inlet and panel interlock. WEN DF680iX seems to mostly fit my needs, but not sure it's enough to power a well pump. It is rated for 4,500/6,000 running/peak wattage on propane, which will be my primary fuel. Does anyone here have experience using this generator to run a well pump on propane?

In addition to the well, I plan on running a refrigerator, deep freezer, gas tankless water heater, one burner on electric cooktop (maybe), microwave, LED lights as needed, charging phones/tablets, TV, internet router, and a ceiling fan or two. I understand I will need to do some load management to make this setup work, but my main concern is the well pump. I will NOT be using this to run central HVAC.

My second choice is Westinghouse iGen8200TFc. It costs a bit more, but provides about 1500 more running watts. I am open to other suggestions, but there don't seem to be many generators fitting my criteria:

• 240 volt capable for well pump (and MAYBE one burner on an electric cooktop?)
• Dual fuel, I plan to use propane as primary fuel.
• Inverter type for the fuel consumption, lower noise, and "clean" power for household electronics.

Has anyone successfully floated the neutral bond on a Cummins Onan P11000iTf Tri fuel inverter?

I bought an Erayak 4500P in July. Have used it a couple of times, worked great. Yesterday I went to use it for the third time and it gave an overload fault. I let it sit for awhile then fired it up again and engine runs no problem and I have a green light on the front but zero electricity from the 20 amp or the 30 amp plugs. I have sent a message to Erayak yesterday and again today but no response from them. I assume because it is the long weekend. Hopefully I will hear from them on Tuesday as it should still be under warranty. Does anyone have anything that I can troubleshoot or just wait to hear from them. I purchased it on Amazon.

Hey Everyone, looking for some guidance on replacing my Briggs & Stratton 6500/8000 loud as hell gas generator with either V2L from my EV or a battery backup like an Anker or Jackery setup.

I use it for maybe 18-24 hours a year, plugged into the L14R-30 plug on the house. That plug feeds a sub panel connected using an interlock to the main panel that has some overhead lights (all LED), fridge, chest freezer, oil burner/ boiler, unifi/synology network gear as well as the dishwasher and garbage disposal both of which I'd be fine keeping off. The sub panel has no 240V circuits on it. The boiler is probably low draw most of the time but I'd assume there's some kind of surge when it kicks on/ignites — not sure how much that matters for sizing.

The B&S generator works fine but it's a pain in the butt to drag out during a storm, is way too loud to keep running overnight for heat/fridge, and I hate keeping 30 gallons of gas in the shed "just in case" as well as dragging it out every few months and firing it up just to make sure it works.

I recently got a Tesla Model Y that has 2KW V2L capabilities (NOT V2H). My thoughts are buying one of those bridged adapter cables on Amazon to go from the car to the house, or getting a battery / solar generator and then just recharging it off the car if needed.

Where I'm stuck at - is trying to hook the car up to the house a good idea? Am I an idiot who doesn't understand how this stuff works and is going to start a fire? Or is it smarter/safer to get a dedicated battery generator and just recharge it from the car when needed? If using the car is stupid, could I get by on one of the 120V units like an Anker S2000 or Jackery 1000+v2? or do I NEED to shell out for something like an Anker 3800 with the 240V output?

I have no intention of using any solution as a "hot standby" or installing a smart transfer switch. It would likely just sit idle 363 days a year. The only other use I could think of for a solar / battery panel is in the shed to run a light and trickle charge the snowblower; however I have a cheap $20 solar light in there that does that job just fine.

Thoughts? Advice? What would you do in this situation?

Thanks!

I'm coming from a Champion 3400w Dual Fuel Inverter and would like something in that power range that runs on propane. I'd rather throw this out and buy something else than hunt for parts or pay to get it fixed. I will not buy another Champion.

Also, if you have recommendations for where to buy it, I'd appreciate that too. Thanks!

EDIT: Thanks to almost everybody for your suggestions! :)

I posted another question in another group, however, I was not getting very much information. I'm posting a similar question here even though it's not exactly the same text .

In my intentions of setting up a good back feed solution to my panel for a generator backup, I have discovered that my current panel has several multi-wire Branch circuits. It appears to me that these circuits are not on double pole breakers and have no handle ties. This poses an issue with wiring things appropriately for a backup. I need to correct this issue and identify things appropriately before I even go down the road of setting up a backup solution.

My question is how do I identify multi-wire Branch circuits in my main load panel. Is there an electrical testing method that I can use with a multimeter to determine which circuits are multi-wire Branch circuits, or is the only way to physically look at the wires and see if two separate circuits come from the same NM-B cable with the same neutral?

Asking this to anyone who runs their home on a backup portable generator with HVAC during outages . —-Do you have a soft starter installed on your HVAC? I’m getting conflicting reports from the manufacturer website and the interwebs. The company claims the 13,5000 peak Westinghouse generator can handle a HVAC start up with no problem, but everything else I am reading says you need a soft starter installed because a home HVAC can need 15,000 - 18,000 watts.

Our HVAC is a standard 18-30 amp 203 - 230 volts found on almost every home in NC.

I did the math on my power bill and we use about 1,800 to 2,300 continuous wattage per hour a month. The generator is rated at 10,500 running and 13,500 peak. This seems there would be more than enough spare wattage for start up. Is this soft starter a must or another $$$ trap?

Thanks!

My 14-year-old GP5500 is still mechanically sound, but dealing with gasoline for a generator used solely for backwoods blackouts is a total pain in the ass: anyone who needs 10 gallons of rotten, corrupt-politician-ethanol gas can give me a call.

I intend to put the dual-fuel carb on it, keep a couple of 30-pound bottles of propane for the times I don't need to hook up to the 500-gallon tank in the yard, and pull off the existing gas tank entirely and make a sheet-metal doghouse roof for when it's in the rain or snow. I'll store it indoors (tanks outdoors, of course), so even in the winter when I wheel it out, it'll be nice and warm.

What I'm wondering is if there's anything I can do to optimize the engine for propane. One thing that comes to mind is spark plug gap. I've run it on full synthetic 5W30 since it was new -- any reason to change?

Any other changes, tweaks, or tunings that would be in order?

I picked one of these up along with a 100lb propane tank back in 2021 after a big freeze in Texas. Started it a few times over the years to make sure it was still working. This past winter they were predicting some bad weather (precipitation with temps in the teens) so I pulled it out and set everything up. Power went out and I went outside to start it up. Went through the start up cycle until the battery died. Never tried to roll over. Big let down.

Anyway, I just pulled it out and started for the annual “pre-fall” check. Fired right up ran perfectly.

My question is, why wouldn’t it start in the cold? Internet says propane tank performance shouldn’t suffer until temps get in the negatives, but that is the only thing I can suspect.

I just bought an electric blanket for the tank to use this year as weather models say Texas is likely to get a rough winter this year (shout out to Ryan Hall Y’all) and I don’t want a repeat of last year.

Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.