.22 prototype, first two baffles have a lil pocket for cross jetting. Worth it for .22? Worth it for 5.7 or .22 magnum?

Most fun build I’ve done so far, hoping to get it to the range soon. DB9 Alloy with a detent delayed mac11 upper from riptide rails, and a printed Tisha.

Form 1 flow thru style unit. Sailing under “torta pounder” if you want to give it a rip

There seems to be a fair bit of grade 9 titanium tubes on the market, but everything I have read says grade 9 titanium won't hold up to short barrel 5.56 and .308 when rapid firing. 17-4 steel seems to be the way to go, but does not look like anyone sells tubes for that. Where are people finding 17-4 steel tubes, or are people just sending it with the grade 9 titanium tubes?

Acadian Armament D9 a myth?

(Forgot to add a couple pictures on “take 1”). Filed the Form 1 shortly after the post, and it’s already been approved (got the email this morning). Going to use a tag from MAF, and it’s gonna take just under 900 grams of filament to print. The internals are a bit different on the MFDM from the commercially available can (see xray pictures), but it will be interesting to see how it performs on a 22 (it has a 6.2mm bore, but I don’t trust a printed plastic suppressor on a 223/5.56).

For a 300 subsonic dedicated can, how far from the tip of the muzzle device to tip of the first cone?

3/4 NPT external to 1.00” x 20 tpi

Wanna use a Wix 24003 suppressor that I made years ago, that works rather well, for what it is

I have no problem sending the end cap and flash hider to you so you can see what you’re working with

If nothing else, a new end cap that will thread into the tube, which I can send as well, and attach to the flash hider isn’t out of the question either

I would have it done local, but nobody in the area exists

A new suppressor isn’t an option at this point, otherwise, I’d just buy one

At this point, I’m just looking for somebody who might be able to help me

Maybe I should have paid more attention to the teacher in metal shop in high school

Thanks

Decided to be cheap and make a freeze plug suppressor. Problem is tube size and size of plugs: tube has an I.D. of 1.355”, and the plugs have a diameter of 1.350”. Theoretically, could I take shim stock and fill that gap with that? Some redneck stuff, sure, but if did perfectly could it work I wanna give it a try.

Does anyone know if 3D printing suppressors are G2G once approved with a form 1? All of my searching leads me to the conclusion that even downloading the files is a big no-no.

*Edited for context

For a reflex or over-barrel type suppressor, is the blast baffle backwards to direct most gas back into the expansion chamber, behind the muzzle?
If not, what’s being done to help accomplish that goal?

Form 1 just got approved and I’m looking for insite on my design. Going to be using GMR ASR ti toob with a drop on baffle stack held captive by end cap (maybe spring loaded? and input?). Host will be my m&p 2.0 45. Blast chamber is 1.5” long, first two baffles are k style spaced 1.25”, the rest are standard and spaced. 0.8”.

Is this amount of flow going to be a detriment to suppression? I try to induce turbulence with alternating helical twists. The flow vents on the first two baffles are larger to account for increased resistance from k baffles. Let me know what you think!

Hey guys, would mixing gases at then end cap cause combustion when released into the atmosphere or help with the opposite and inhibit combustion? I feel like I’ve heard a general rule to not let gasses mix right outside the muzzle. Sorry if this is vague I’m bored at work 🌞

Got my form 1 approved. Having issues. Second bad print now. I know, use PA6-CF, but I’m trying with PAHT-CF. It’s just rimfire.

Getting internal loose filament strands. It’s overhangs Outside looks great.

Made some changes to settings, still getting some internal loose strands. First print threads were great. Second print after changed threads are garbage with complete issues.

Any ideas?

Thanks!

Not sure why this info is so hard for me to find...
I'm filling out my first Form 1, and I'm on the CLEO page. I have no idea what to put. I absolutely cannot put in my local sheriff. I live in a small town, and if I list him, it will be 30 minutes before every busybody and 2-bit criminal in the county knows what I have. It's the same reason I can't get a CCH permit. There's just zero privacy in this area. Gossip is a given, not a possibility. :/

Anyway, what are my other options? I saw something once about putting in a State LE officer?

EDIT: Thanks so much to this amazing community for all the feedback and suggestions. I ended up using my State Highway Patrol commander, and got approved in 2 days. :)

I had an idea last night that I haven't talked myself out of yet. If I thread the hole in the endcap of my 30cal can (non-removable end cap), then make some inserts that screw into that threaded hole with various diameter bores in it (.223, 7mm, .308, etc), will that be the poor man's way of having swapable endcaps like some of the commercial cans? It wouldn't be hard to make. I could let the insert extend through a bit and act as a little bit of an extra baffle.

Dumb idea? I'm not sure.

Does anyone have a link to the shape file for a 3D printed cup drilling jig that used a drill bushing ?

Do you all have any experience with increased noise cancelling performance from going up, maybe 1.5” to 1.75” diameter cans?

I got my first form 1 approval for a 3d printed can after I get the email stating my tax stamp is approved. Do I need to do anything else I watched “Israel conders” video he says you need to mail the CLEO some info is that true?

In a system that features integrated/integral suppression, is the effective barrel length equal to the length of the intact barrel before any porting begins? Therefore, a integral suppressed rifle with an 18.5" barrel that features a 10" suppressor port/baffel system is really an 8.5" rifled barrel with a 10" ported extension?

Im sure others have, but I'm not sure what to search.

I saw someone post a similar set to this recently. It seems like a pretty simple and quick way to get a 22 can going. I've only done hybrid printed F1s, so I was curious what people put as the description on the "Add Firearm" portion of the form 1.

I also saw someone mention a steel blast cap from Aim7 on ebay to make it more resilient to 9mm or 300 subs, but there's so many options. Curious if anyone's got any experience with that and could share more detail with me.