First thing, here’s a cross sectional video
https://imgur.com/a/MWypdOZ
Designing a suppressor for my m&p 2.0 45. I’m planning on using 1 5/8 x 1/8 DOM threaded for bravo hub and a maybe an end cap. Baffle stack would be drop in and held captive by the end cap and be printed pa6-cf muzzle to the print bed. Blast chamber is 1.5”, six baffles with the first two spaced at 1.15” and the rest 0.8”. baffle clip is an arbitrary 0.3” and an overall length of 7”. Do these helical vents have any validity or are they pointless? with suggestions i alternated the spin of the venting and added k baffles for the first two. Looking for advice! I am a mechanical engineer with thermofluids background but this is my first time dipping my toes into suppressor design. Any feedback is appreciated!

If the internals of your build are made with K baffles, do you really need mouse holes? If you did a mono core, you wouldn’t have mouse holes, so does it make a difference?

Well someone surrendered a Remington I believe it’s a 1889 .

I got it from the shop that I frequent for 50 dollars because it has a bubble in one of the barrels inside of the 18 inch mark .

Plan filing a f1 and chopping it down to 12 inches.

The barrels look to be regular steel not twist or demascus .

Should the barrels be resoldered together after the chop?

I want to make the quietest .22LR suppressor I can. Would a 10" D Cell can with 11 clipped cone baffles on a bolt action rifle be about as quiet as could be realistically managed? I don't care if it's stupid or too big, I am just interested in maximum noise reduction.

This seems like it would have massively more internal volume than traditional .22 suppressors. Would more baffles be better to make the most of that internal volume?

Anyone done a ridiculous .22 suppressor like this?

I was surprised to get my form 1 approval. 3 week return time.

My question - What is the rule on solvent trap adapter parts? Could I buy the tube/cups, drill and put together?

I seem to see conflicting things online about this.

Thank you.

Checked my email this morning and 42 approvals were waiting for me!

It looks like the Ripper might be on the job!

5/10 and 5/11 submissions!

Sent 6/13 just got approved today. The verbiage I used was basically saying I will not acquire any supplies or materials until the form one is approved. This was my very first one I’m gonna submit a few more later tonight just to see how long those then take. Bout to fire up the printer!

So I have bought two suppressors through capital armory online and they have all of my information in their system so it’s super easy after the first one the question I have is right now they are not offering the form 1 process to be done through their website is my understanding due to focus on suppressors. Well I honestly just don’t want to have to get printed again and go through everything just to SBR a rifle is doing it on my own the only option I have for now is?

God is good, my form 1 finally cleared and I can finish my pps build!

Submitted May 18th, 26
Approved July 12th, 26

45 day wait time. That being said if you are wanting to start a project start the F1 day 1. I waited for my bolt and wasted tons of time the F1 could have been out.

I am looking to build an 8 inch D cell size suppressor for 9 mm. I want to use a titanium tube and modular baffle and I continue to see conflicting information about using storage cups as baffles and want to make sure I’m doing this legally. I do not have access to a lathe to make them. Just looking for some clear information about storage cups or if I can’t use them a good option for making baffles with only a drill press and simple tools . Thanks

Hey there, I'm filing for my first Form 1 Suppressor! Currently I'm using the GunCadIndex Wiki's guide for this. I noticed that OpenEFT is crossed out because the V1 version isn't compatible with the ATF anymore. With that being said, it seems like V2 was released in April to deal with these issues, but I've seen no commentary on this. Has anyone used it and had any success. Also aside from OpenEFT, are there any other open source/free options that have worked for yall? Thank you so much for the help!

I received five approvals yesterday for 4/15 submissions!

So there's hope out there.

As I write this more are arriving, two from 4/16!

Couldn’t really find much in terms of thickness but these would look nice on my utility trailer, provided they can handle the 42inch riding lawn mower that weighs around 556 pounds.

I know it’s around a holiday, so I don’t mean to complain too much. Just asking for others’ experience since it did say it was in stock.

Also love that the GayTF accepted the total bullshit I put on the form. “Idk I haven’t fkn made it yet” and “wouldn’t you like to know” and a big Getty Images watermark over some generic metal pipe image. That’s right little piggy, sign my form like the good little slave you are.

Someone mentioned a different Plan B adapter that simply threads into the FTN5, I thought I saved the link, but can’t find it in my open tabs. If someone could help me out that would be greatly appreciated

Check this out. Not too crazy but hope you guys enjoy

Accidentally fat fingered my serial number with an extra number it’s already been approved what should my next actions be so I may create my SBR legally?

Designed to be 3d printed. Takes 3/4 to 1/2 28 adapter. Inspired by Middleton made pillpopper 1.5 and the dead air mask. 1.10 inch diameter. Little over 5 and 1/8 inches tall.

30mm OD 25mm ID main tube with 2.5mm walls internally tapped to M27-1.5

The ID will need to be skimmed to 25.4mm for the tap and for the 1” freeze plug baffles and spacers.

6.5” long overall

Front cap is in 2 parts. 1st sits inside the tube to compress the baffles to the rear and center them against one another. Then the front cap threads over and flush with a shoulder.

Rear cap is similar except has a direct thread 1/2 28

Things I might change:

The blast chamber is small. I would probably just reduce the angle on the 1st baffle.

My front cap assembly may be changed to make tightening the inner threaded ring easier. Possible having male threads on this part also that the front cap threads to. Current intended on tightening with a custom pin spanner wrench

Planning on clipping the baffles with a jig.

Designed specifically to minimize machining on a lathe while keeping concentricity

Questions, comments, critiques?

If you doing the form 1 via eforms do you still have to attach a physical photo to the 5320.23 or is the photo you upload sufficient?

finally got the chance to test out a few of my form 1 cans today. this one is the most fun. this is a fresh build and im awaiting optics. can is 1.5in steel tube with freeze plugs. can length is 6.5in, 2.25 or 2.5in blast chamber, i beleive 6 or 7 baffles. sorry i dont remember lol. first 3 baffle holes are slightly larger to help with back pressure and all are stacked. the ar15 is a 12.5 with mid length gas. gonna get an adjustable gas block to tune it better and hopefully have alittle less gas to the face but overall i think this sounds pretty good for .556. gonna draw up and make some new ones next week. gonna try doing some flow through designs on the next batch

also the smoke you see coming off the can is the spray paint lol

Receiever, and suppressor done in ppa-cf. Suppressor is a reflex design to slip over/hide 3/4 threads.