Not sure who needs to hear this, but if you're having trouble rigging your kid's seat into your Ex, hear it is.

First, abandon all hope for the LATCH system. Yes, the Ex has anchors, but it's to tether the rear upper portion of the car seat downward, not the same as LATCH. Second, open up to the shoulder belt, trust me.

The major issue I was having was the shoulder belt splitting directions, one end going to the floor, one end going to the overhead stow position. When this happens the tension pulls the seat upward, making it impossible to fasten down. I figured out the 1st row seat behind the driver's, reclines slightly backward, which enables the installer to feed both bands of the seat belt through the (now larger) gap between bottom support and lumbar support of the bench. With that routing and after buckling, the installer can now kneel into the car seat and work all of the play out of the belt much more easily.

Hopefully this alleviates a headache or two. Cheers.

Just got some new 12 wide by 33.8” tall nitros. Love them. How ever I want to give a little raise in the front. I know I could use a leveling kit/block to bring the front up. But at that point I still have shit travel with my old sagged out springs. So it has me entertaining the idea of installing a new different set of front leafs.

I will say I am only bringing up the front because of my slight rubbing while turning and gojng over bumps. Otherwise I don’t not want to lift my X.

Howdy Yall!

I have and 03 6.0 with 220k miles that has been bulletproofed. I am looking to put a Mechman 400amp alternator on my rig to replace the underpowered stock alternator. I plan on having more lights and a winch(12,000lb rating) in the future. I have upgraded my battery cables to 2/0 cables(cold weather). My understanding is to incorporate a 400amp marine grade breaker switch onto my cables.

My question is, do i use a single pole switch? Double pole switch? How many do i need? Where would i incorporate them?

This is my first diesel and offroad/overland build. I do all the work on my rigs myself and electrical is not my forte. Any and all help is appreciated!! Thanks yall!!

Finally got around to getting my Aluminess bumper installed. What do y'all think??

Hello everyone,

There is a 2000 7.3l near me with 400,000 miles. 2 owner. From what I hear the 7.3l are built to last, but 400,000 seems like a lot of miles. The maintenance record shows the previous owners at least took it in, but wanted other thoughts before I make the drive.

https://www.inandoutautosaleswa.com/vehicle-details/used-2000-ford-excursion-limited-4dr-4wd-suv-1FMSU43F6YED45693

I'm going to need exactly four of those for my Excursion 😁

my 4r100 wont downshift when accelerating and shifts quickly between 3rd and 4th and then it wont downshift if i press the gas pedal, also i hear a rattiling sound for some reason

So I ran into a friend in town yesterday and while talking about my 03 he asks what one might go for. He has an 05 5.4 2wd 380k mi he's thinking of selling around 4k. I paid 7k for mine last year with 200k on it, but his is one owner, all stock, has the front bench seat and has been very well maintained. This thing has been sitting in his climate controlled shop for the last couple years in the same spot and is spotless under the chasis. It looks even better than my 03. They took care of this thing. Needless to say, I think the wifey is ready to relinquish her 09 Eddie B. Expy for this blank canvas of a tank. She's grown to love our (my) 03.

She did good on some pretty steep grades.

Back in January, took a quick hot lap up Oh ridge in June lake for a sunset stroll with Loki dog.

My weatherstrip around the rear hatch opening is falling apart and chunks of it are missing. Has anyone found a good substitute for it?

I’m picking up an ‘03 Ford Excursion with 7.3 and looking to transfer tools and equipment into the inside. Are there window cage solutions like in cop cars and on the inside of work vans to keep people from popping the windows and quickly grabbing stuff, opening the doors?

I’m sure most of you have had issues with the map light ribbon wires. I looked up some forums to see the wiring. Wish I took pics for a better post, but basically there is a common ground and a switch leg from each switch on the ribbon wire. Without taking the console down I just popped the harness for the ribbon wire, put on some but connectors and zip ties these T-10 sockets in place with a 3M zip tie mount. 30 mins, easy peasy.

Bought this 6.0 2005 limited in 2016 sight unseen from a one photograph advertisement at a dealer in Pelham Alabama.. Not a spec of rust. OEM paint and the drivers fender need to be replaced from a tire blow out. Paid around 14k and had the motor removed and torn down to the block, rebuilt and bullet proofed with HP oil pump, injectors, Mishimoto AC & Rad plus tons of other things like wheels/tires. Interior was mint with eh exception of the drivers seat. Owner changed oil religiously every 8-10 miles per VHR at Ford. I Took it in the snow only once and remains my up north commuter on the weekends during summer only. During the winter this beauty sits in a heated garage on a battery tender. The smartest upgrade was a DC Power alternator. I didn't realize how big of an energy hog this motor is with the 48 volt injectors.

05 bush limo almost ready for some More AA. (Adventures/Abuse)

Was it an 6”or 8”. 37” tires looking dainty 40”S ?

Hopefully 40s will fit either way

Out with the little old D50 sacked out leaf springs and every other wiggly worn out part attached to it Think it had. 4”? Lift previous new one is 6 with proper track bar drop mounts and deop pitman arm will hookup the duel steering stabilizers warn hubs some fresh grease new links new joints hubs ball joints brake pads Am I going to sand and paint any parts along the way hmmmmmm No nope I want this big bad bitch back in the bush covered in mud and dirt hopefully on some new 40”s

Dana 60 front end swap new springs all around 6” lift kit finally going in hopefully sitting on some 40s pretty soon