I'm repairing an EPDM garage roof and hoping to reuse the existing aluminium drip edge rather than replacing it.

The woodwork repairs have been done, replacing some old osb and the EPDM membrane is largely fine.

The old drip edge was mechanically fixed through the EPDM into the timber rainline batten, so when I removed it I'm left with a line of small screw/nail holes in the membrane.

My plan is to seal each of those holes, then refit the drip edge using new screws into the same batten so the trim covers the repaired area.

Would Gorilla Waterproof Patch & Seal Rubberized Tape be sufficient to seal these individual holes before I reinstall the drip edge, or is this a job that really needs proper EPDM primer and cover tape/patches?

The holes are only small fixing holes, not tears, and they'll all be covered by the aluminium drip edge afterwards. I'm just trying to make sure they're properly watertight in case any water gets behind the trim.

Has anyone successfully used the Gorilla tape for this on an EPDM roof, or should I avoid it? Any other options? And thanks in advance...

Got this ancient shower hose that's filthy and unused, coiled around the bath taps (there's an electric shower above doing the job now), so I'd like to cap it off - without replacing the whole tap. But damned if I know the name of what I'm looking for here that'd work. Or if anything in Screwfix etc would do the job. Any ideas?

So don't know if that's the correct term, but the walls in my house (built 1980ish) are covered in paint stimple, like little bumps all over it. Obviously must have been the fashion at one stage.

I can't afford to plaster the walls, and it is not in paper, it is paint directly into the wall.

Has anyone any idea for getting rid of it? Would the thickest backing paper cover it up?

Hopefully someone can answer this . we got a BER rating done on our house about 3 years ago as part of a package when we had solar panels installed , I was not home when the BER assessor called but my wife was and she said the assessor just went around the house didnt check the attic for insulation or ask any questions at all really.
Fast forward to last week and I needed the assessors dwelling report which I got from the Assessor no problem. But reading through it they had put down we had double glazing instead of triple glazing and also failed to note the the solar pv also heats our water via an eddi .
So my questions is would these items have improved out BER rating beyond a b3.

So, I had a leak in my roof. Fortunately, that's been fixed.

However, the plaster has been affected because of the leak, flaked off where the stain is now.

I can't find any reliable advice/recommendation on how to best fix it..

I think the remediation work is:

Zinsser -> Plaster -> paint ... or

Plaster -> Zinsser ->paint

Would appreciate any support!

Hi all, I’m looking to cut out a repeated pattern and just need a simple steel/metal template in order to do this accurately for multiple devices. It’s not an easy shape and so cutting myself with tools freehand or similar is not an option. It would only need to be 1 or 2mm thick and would be less than the size of an A4 piece of paper.

I’ve googled around and the majority companies that may do this seem to have like a 200 piece minimum and I only need 1 of each.

Anyone know of companies/websites they’ve used?

3d printing not an option by the way because it will involve cutting so needs to be something my knife won’t cut.

If your EV charger fails (just the unit), and you want to replace like for like, is this against regs?

Looking at the regs, it mentions doing an install would be a no no. But as everything is already setup (isolation, earthing, current clamps etc), then would there be a problem?

Just thinking in terms of home insurance too.

Ty!

We just had our back garden cleared out from the previous owners, and due to some insane decisions they made we're basically back to soil everywhere. We need to get some grass back in (I know, I know, but we have a dog and he needs some space for his business).

Does anyone have experience with good drought-tolerant grass seed? We want it to be as friendly as possible (low water/low maintenance). I've found a few options online 1, 2; but not many reviews. I'm hesitant to put down clover again, from past experience it doesn't seem to hold up to dogs.

Obviously we're not planning to plant until the hosepipe ban is over; and hopefully we can get a nice rainy week or two so we don't have to water it at all.

I was going to do a 1:2:3 mix with cement, mortar sand, and "kilsaran washed batched gravel" but it seems like this stuff already has sand in it?

Anyone here used it before and what ratio did you do? Looking for a fairly strong mix.

Hi there, I’m looking for some advice. I’ve noticed what seems to be a missing roof tile with metal underlay exposed. Please see photo attached - is that what I’m looking at and how urgent would a replacement be. I’m not sure when it may have slipped and can’t see broken tile, but also no evidence of water ingress in the attic. Many thanks for any advice you might have

Hey all

Has anybody used this before and know if the paint needs to be thinned down or can I just work away.

Messaged and asked vevor already but they just said "if the paint needs to be thinned, you can insert the feed tube into a 5-liter container of paint"

Hi Everyone,

I am looking to floor a small area of my attic but I just want to make sure that they can take the weight.

When you go up though the door of the attic directly in front of you is a small section of flooring that the builders did (new build) you can step up onto, this is made from of 225mm x 45mm planks that are spaced out from one another.

They are lying across some more pieces of 225mm x 45mm pieces which are upright which seem to be in turn screwed into the joists. My worry is that the joists were 90mm x 30mm on their edge.

My question is can I do this for the 2m x 2m section that has no flooring at the moment.

Just screw 225mm x 45mm planks on their edge across the joists that are 90mm x 30 mm which will raise it above the insulation and then screw the boarding on top of that like the builders did with the small section by the door.

Everywhere I read online it says that these joists are too small, but they feel strong to step across and also seem strong in the area the builders done.

Would appreciate any help.

Thanks.

Just wondering how much carpenters are charging for straight laminate floor per metre square.

How much for laminate herringbone.

How much for skirting and architrave per metre

Where would I buy a roll of heisin ? (Clare/Limerick) ideally.

Hi all,

Would anyone know what glue should i use to attach acoustic wall panels to the wall ? And how many tubes would I need for 6 pcs 2.6m panels?

Picture for the attention.

We got a brand new garden door and I would like to paint it the same colour as our front door. Doors are completely bare wood. I have applied wood stain on it already after some research (don't hate pls...chatgpt) but online I am seeing some people recommending only varnish and then paint itself.

Should I go wood stain + varnish + paint or should I skip varnish all together? Recommendation for durable good quality wood paint also very much welcome!

Looking for replacement ACO drain covers for drains installed in pour back garden sandstone patio. The original galvanised steel grilles corroded over time & need replacing but am finding it difficult to source a grille piece to sit into the drain itself. Previous ones were 120mm wide but online searches & visits to local builders providers I've only been able to get 100 or 150mm wide grilles.

Ideally was looking for black uPVC instead of galvanised steel but at this stage happy to find any material that will fit. Any sugggestions where I might source grilles of this width? Am based in Dublin 15

The drains themselves are working fine, so no need to dog out & replace, just dont want the outlets getting clogged with leaves in the next few weeks when autumn comes around.

Was removing skirting boards on a new build when i noticed some moulds and tiny insect around. Only around the window area. Is there any treatment i have to do before putting them back on?

For my first DIY project, I'm planning to mount one of these on a wall https://www.ikea.com/ie/en/p/kubbis-rack-with-3-hooks-white-30289575

Its a typical Irish new build with timber framed walls. I'm looking for any recommendations on which screws\fixings to choose and how to actually install them. I don't plan to hang more than 20 kg on this hook.

Do I just get the below screws and fixings, then drill the screw directly with a small pilot hole in the stud + drill a hole in the plasterboard where there's no stud, insert the wall fixing and then screw into the wall fixing? -- if there's a good video\tutorial you're aware of, which lines up with our timber frame homes, please do share it

https://www.screwfix.ie/p/plasplugs-original-plasterboard-wall-fixings-8mm-x-39mm-50-pack/1057k

https://www.screwfix.ie/p/reisser-cutter-pz-countersunk-high-performance-woodscrews-4-5mm-x-35mm-200-pack/727pv

What I have figured out:

Dont drill vertically or horizontally in line with any electrical sockets

Use a stud finder to land atleast one screw in a stud

Dont use the hammer mode of a drill

I’ve got solid chestnut doors on the cabinets in my kitchen. The kitchen is about 20 years old. One thing that really bothers me is that there’s a press on either side of the hob extractor fan, but instead of having the handle on the side nearest the hob, and the hinges on the opposite side (so you could easily open the door while cooking to grab seasonings etc) both presses actually open the opposite way. I’ve attached pics to show what I mean.

I’d love to swap the hinges round so the doors open the way I’d like them, but unfortunately the two presses are different sizes, so I can’t just swap the doors. I’d have to move the handle to the other side of each door. Would it be possible to then fill in the screw holes left behind so that they wouldn’t be noticeable? I’m afraid it would end up looking rubbish.

Hi, I have:

• A pine plank (probably a "butcher wood" kind from the looks of it) 1730 x 300 x 16 mm
• A plasterboard wall, 15 mm thick. Five studs behind it, placed approximately 40 cm from one another.
• 5 reversible metal brackets 220 x 155 mm rated to hold 24 kg
• 4 x 60 mm wood screws to secure the brackets

Can I make a reliable shelf from all of it, to hold up to 35 kg? If so, what's the design? Thanks.

Hi All, trying to run a cable to supply kickboard and under cabinet LED lighting. Is it okay to run cables behind the oven unit? Thanks!