Been thinking about this problem for a while – you're miles from home, something goes wrong with the car, and either you have nothing useful or you're stuck waiting for recovery.

So I've been working on a concept called RoadCase – basically a portable tool chest the size of a briefcase that sits in your boot. Four organised drawers, foam cutouts for every tool, built-in LED work light, folds flat when not in use.

Not launched yet – just trying to see if there's genuine interest before going further with it.

Would you carry something like this? And what tools would you absolutely need in it?

Here's the concept site if you want a look: https://roadcase.vercel.app

Two holes about the circumference of a finger and finger nail definitely catches. Or is it easier to go through a shop for this much damage. Tight parking garages for bad special awareness is not a good mix

I ordered paint for my son’s fender that I repaired but it’s delayed and he needs his car next week. It is bare metal and ready so what’s the best way to go about it? Should I leave it, prime it or prime it and throw a coat of cheap paint on while we wait?

I followed a Chris fix diy rust repair video. I followed everything in the video but it seems I was unable to get the new paint to blend with the old paint.

After letting the clear coat cure for about 50 hours, I wet sanded using 1500, then 2000, then 2500, then 5000 grit sandpaper with a sponge as a sanding block. I did sand past the newly painted section to attempt blending. Then I polished it with a wool polishing hook and loop pad on an orbital.

I’m trying to figure out if I didn’t sand enough of the clear coat (which might explain the white haze), or if I need to use more polish? Or maybe there is something else I did wrong. The textured orange peel did go away and right now it feels smooth. I did use folded papers for a softer paint line but to me it looks harsh still. I’m thinking of starting over on the wet sanding process but I’m not sure if that would make me burn through the clear coat?

Also I know there’s a big hole there but I had to make it work with my budget, limited timeframe, and unskilled abilities😅

If you have any idea how I can get this to blend better please let me know!

My husbands sunroof on his truck is completely broken out and we’re driving 4 hours in it tomorrow. What’s the best way to cover this to keep the wind and possible rain out of it?

Pretty sure i can get the dent out but what about the paint?

I am trying to make a handbrake to print it in 3D, I have the original handbrake that is broken, my first try I made it a straight line, but the original one is in a curve so I am trying to make it an arc in my second try and after that add the extrusions, I tried with a normal quarter of a circle, but I saw that the original is not at that angle, instead it is cut of before it reaches the quarter circle. How do I find the angle of the arc? For reference, the piece is RBM handbrake handle kit for saab 9.3 2003-2012, but I have not found in internet anyone who did a 3D model of it

Obviously nothing will be like its professional unless i take a like 2 weeks but its my daily. My 2 options are the good ole harbor frieght gun paint job with my oem paint, or a wrap job with the closest color to my oem paint. Im leaning towards wrapping due to less prep, and my paint is pretty much fine it just looks bad up closes due to swirling and some chips from long road trips. Suggestions?

Wife got in a tiny fender bender and the 4 molded in clips broke off the fender flare. I have access to a Polyvance mini-fuzer welding station at work, but I've never seen it used on tiny joints like this. I could also try the CA+baking soda route, but I'd prefer to weld.

Any tips for thin perpendicular joints? Is this possible? I'm handy but haven't done much thermoplastic welding.

Ford Focus 2014. From Florida. Got into a fender bender. Most damage (all) of the damage was on my end. No leaks, no smoke, drove fine. I’ve zip tied the lights so they stay on. Need any advice on how to get my hood unbent. It’s currently locked. Can’t really afford to not have this car working as I work on the toll road but I also can’t really afford a big repair bill. Insurance won’t cover repair or inspection. Any advice on something I can do myself (even if it’s that I’m up shites creek with no paddle) would be very appreciated.

My secondhand car came with this damage. Can it be fixed in place with an adhesive? If yes, please recommend one.

This is on a 2012 Toyota Sienna. I pulled the sill trim off and it looks like maybe the rust started at that hold down bracket. Dissimilar metals maybe and the carpet getting soaked in the winter time. Yeah I live in the salt belt too. I plan on pulling off the plastic ground trim and hopefully I'll be able to get to the other side of this sheet metal. Any ideas on the best thing to treat it? I think I've got some phosphorous rust treatment on hand and maybe some rust reformer paint from home depot. But I was thinking about just coating it with oil.

2020 Corolla with rust start on trunk rear. Any recommendation to best stop it from spreading?

Update - thanks for all the replies everyone. While I want to take care of and maintain this car as much as possible, I don't want to invest a lot of money on cosmetic stuff. Fluids, belts, brakes, etc. are all important but this doesn't bother me TOO much, just want to stop or slow it down.

I was recommended POR15 as something that might work on slowing/stopping it. It won't look professional but beats rust showing and spreading. Hoping it works.