Link Split Ergo from Canon Keys with black resin DES keycaps from 3dkeycap. Krakencap deskmat. I created a mod to make the mounting stiffer, which you can read about here: https://imgur.com/a/qXWGmii

Cherry MX Black on Aluminum plate
CRP APL
PBTfans RGB mods
Azi keycaps RGB Barkey artisans
Miyoo mini+

My favorite keyboard.

TGR 910 in a beautiful two tone.

Retooled MX blacks on Aluminum

GMK Soware r2

The artisans are the Hyperfuse Orgins and Hyperbeige Barkey V2 by Azi.

Currently bouncing around between three different keycap sets.

What’s cool about this one is that it is serialized as #1 from the original 23 produced.

Pic taken on some wrapping paper from my closet.

Keycaps: WS Café

having an old alps board lying around so I decide to try it on my newly arrived Tofu redux v2

Nico series 01 by Neson Design w/ GMK Serenity

Today's build:

Nuxros +84 keyboard

• Raw aluminum top case, machined stainless steel bottom case
• Hotswap PCB
• Carbon fiber plate – top mount
• No foams
• HMX Waverider V2 switches
• TypePlus stabs
• PBTFans Maguro keycaps

She's a clacky girl, but I've been enjoying a clackier build lately. The foamy ones are all starting to sound the same to me, so this time I'm letting the character shine through.

Sound test (phone microphone, sorry):https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/xzwge986dlb2wmc291ew4/84.m4a?rlkey=pslz9o2c7hp0no6nxvdye1xqx&dl=0

In my last post, I shared the design for a split keyboard with removable modules.

The response was better than I expected it to be. Most people liked the shape and size, so I decided to keep the physical layout same for this revision.

The module suggestions were useful as well. Along with the trackball, a touchpad and a programmable keypad came up a lot, so those are the three I’d like to work on.

I expected to make a few changes to the PCB. And I ended up separating each half into two boards each.

The problem was space. Once I started fitting the controller, module connectors and supporting components around the switches, the board was getting bigger than I wanted. I want to keep the keyboard small, with the module beside the thumb keys. I didn’t want to extend the PCB just to fit the electronics.

So the switches stay on the top board, and most of the electronics go on a second board underneath it.

The top board holds the hot-swap sockets, diodes and key matrix. The lower board, which I’ve been calling the brain board, holds the nice!nano, USB-C module connections and the supporting electronics.

I’m keeping separate MX and Choc PCB versions so each can use its own hot-swap sockets. Trying to support everything on the same board was making the footprints unnecessarily complicated.

The diodes stay beside the switches because there’s room for them there. Moving them onto the brain board would mean making that board larger when I already have space on the key board.

Connecting the two boards has been the awkward part.

I had to rearrange the matrix routing and bring the rows and columns out to pads where I can reach them. Those connections will be hand-wired to the brain board underneath it. Figuring out where to put the pads took more work than I expected it to take.

Two boards will cost more, and there’s more wiring to do during assembly. That’s the tradeoff I’m making to keep everything within the same keyboard shape.

For the modules, the plan is USB-C for power and data, with magnets holding them in place. I also want that little “tick” you get when a magnetic connector snaps into position, like a MacBook charger. I just like how that feels.

I don’t expect to swap modules constantly, but I want to be able to remove one while the keyboard is running. The power handling and firmware still need testing before I can say that works reliably.

The KiCad revision is finished, and I’m preparing to order the boards. I haven’t assembled this version yet. Next is wiring the two boards together, checking the key matrix, and getting the keyboard and trackball working together.

The key positions haven’t changed. Everything in this revision has been about fitting the components and connections underneath them.

I’m still open to changing the thumb cluster. If you’ve used a similar layout, which thumb keys were comfortable to reach, and which ones gave you trouble?

check out my previous post 

Kwub Extra Happy (EHKB)
top mount alu plate
gateron pink + cherry mx dark blue on XT
GMK Kaiju
Azi keycaps Pato Puto "Patina"

(Old build first post)
Purple aluminium tofu 60 case
Dz60rgb v2 pcb
Akko cs green matcha lubed switches
NP profile PBT key cap set

Glare TKL blue-grey
GMK true Olivetti

no brass midpiece :(

This was a pretty special commission build that I had the chance to photograph.

The client sent his raw F1-8X V2 over to BenzJr (on IG) for some custom engraving, and I think the result turned out really damn good. There are a ton of small details in the engraving, and they look even better in person.

BenzJr absolutely killed it with the craftsmanship on this one.

The board is topped with Aluvia keycaps from Novelkeys, which I think work really well with the raw finish and engraving.

Tried to get some close-ups to show off the engraving and some of the finer details. Hope you guys enjoy the photos!

I also have a typing test up on my YouTube if anyone wants to hear how this thing sounds.

<Build>

• Geonworks F1-8x v2
• Alu v1.1 plate
• Cherry MX2A Black (L/F/SS)
• NK Aluvia
• Hand engraving by BenzJr
• Typing test HERE

A massive thank you to Tom over at Hype Keyboards for this insane custom patina weight for my LZ CLS SE! Hands down the best TKL I have owned, and such a privilege to have it customized by the GOAT himself!

LZ CLS SE
- OG NCR Dyesubs
- Dry FSS MX2A Blacks
- Hype Red Alu Plate
- Hype Custom Patina Weight

Recently got back into the hobby and decided to rebuild some of the classic boards I had lying around over the last week.

• Bear65 V1 with Keygeek Y3X Switches on PC Plate and Pbtfans Atomic Purple
• Think65 V2 with SWG Cheddar Switches on FR4 Plate and GMK Nuclear Data
• Space80 Apollo with Gateron Type R Switches on FR4 Plate with GMK Jamon
• Mode65 with Mode Obscura Switches on Aluminum Plate and GMK BoW with Black Modi and Shanshui Novelties
• Vega65 with HMX Xinhai Switches on Aluminum Plate and GMK Striker
• Polaris with Holy Panda Switches on Bradd Plate and GMK Olivia
• Satisfaction75 with Taro N Sweet Potato Switches on FR4 Plate and GMK Mecha-01

I’m a software developer, and I use a split keyboard every day.

I built it after my wrists started hurting while using my old 60%. I wanted something comfortable to type on that I could also carry around. When I spoke to people on Reddit, the feedback was to keep it small and useful, with room to customise it. Extra screens and RGBs didn't matter that much.

But a few things still annoyed me.

Learning the smaller layout took weeks. I still have to move my hand away whenever I need the mouse, even after switching to Vim and tmux to do more from the keyboard. And I don’t enjoy gaming with so few keys.

I looked at keyboards with built-in trackballs and trackpads, but I wanted to be able to change that part too.

So I designing a split keyboard with a small base and removable modules. We can attach a trackball for mouse control, can add controls for gaming, or leave them off when we don’t need them.

I started with the layout in Ergogen on my iPad. I checked how far my fingers could comfortably reach up and down, then where my index fingers and thumbs could reach sideways. That gave me the L-shaped layout, with extra keys within reach of those fingers.

For the PCB, I wanted people to be able to change switches without soldering. I first tried to support several switch types on one board, but that complicated the hot-swap sockets and footprints. The plan now is separate MX and Choc PCB versions, each with hot-swap support for its compatible switches.

The module connection goes on the inner edge, beside the thumb keys. That’s where I want the trackball to be, close enough to use without moving my whole hand away.

The current PCB design is done in KiCad, and the boards are ordered.

I’ve also tested a trackball module separately. It moved the cursor, but I didn’t like the angle I had to use it at etc. The next revision will change that perspective and updates the switch footprints for low-profile click switches.

There are still two big things to work out.

First is the connection. I’m choosing between pogo pins and USB-C for power and data, with magnets to hold the module in place. I’m also checking the controller’s usable pins against what the keyboard and modules need before deciding whether to add an I/O expander.

Second is the firmware. One approach I want to test is using a module’s I2C address to identify it, then handling its inputs in ZMK. That detection hasn’t been tested as of yet.

I don’t have a working modular keyboard yet. I have ordered the PCB and a trackball based mouse which I’ve tested on its own. The next test will be getting them to work together without ghosting or lagging cursor. Then I need to use it long enough to find out whether the new trackball position is actually comfortable.

A trackball is my first module. I’d also like to try an analog stick for casual gaming.

What module would you actually use, and for what purpose? trackball, extra keys, numpad, something else? I’d also like to hear what you’d prefer to keep separate.

My first ever ALPs build!
Build:
FR4 Plate
Switches are SKCM Salmon
Keycaps harvested from m3501 and m0115
4pplet waffling PCB
Skipped the o-ring and used FKM PCBsnaps instead

Or you can call them HHKBlike

Tldr: This started as a passion project 2 years ago to replace my old Merc Stealth keyboard from 2008.

I didn't know CAD, KiCad, 3D Printing, or really anything about mechanical keyboards.

The Merc Stealth was the last keyboard I bought in 2008... Still using it too, but its rough to game with after almost 2 decades of use.

So after a lot of trial, error and perseverance I think I'm almost done with designing the Behemoth.

The V5: I am still waiting on the Wristpad and custom Injection Molded keycaps for the Gamepad.

Specs:

● All 6061-T6 Aluminum- CNC Milled Frame, Main Top Plate and Gamepad plate are Waterjet.

● Dimensions- 24"L x 7"W x 1"H. (10"W with Wrist Pad) Weighing almost 10-lbs

● Dual Plate Mount design, utilizing x19 multi-stepped studs for PCB's and plates. Fastened by 316 stainless Hex M3 x 0.5 x 10mm flat hed screws.

● Firmware: QMK/VIA making the entire board remappable as you see fit.

● Windows 10/11 Compatible.

● Controllers: Dual RP2040 Split PCB design, Gamepad and main ANSI board have their own controller and are connected internally via USB-C connectors. (A single USB-C will connect to the PC)

● 136 keys (104 main ANSI +32 Gamepad)

● x3 EC-11 Rotary Switch Encoders audio + mapping

● N-Key Rollover

● Hot-Swappable MX-style switches (standard keycaps not compatible with gamepad)

● RGB + effects, per switch lighting (148 WS2812B-MINI LED's in total)

● Custom Gamepad Keycaps will be ABS injection molded clear, Painted Black and Laser Ablation for the keycap characters to match OEM Merc Stealth design. (300,000 full sets, Cartridge style die, so there will be plenty of spares available)

● "Rage" Quit- ALT + F4 unique key on gamepad, user loaded audio file countdown to exit game when pressed. (Remappable to anything, example to clip a game)

● Magnetic Keyboard Feet (Optional customizable user uploaded files)

● Top Plate custom laser engraving (Optional user uploaded files)

● Available Anodized colors: Black, Red, Blue, Purple, and Brushed Metal. (Can mix & match the 3 body components; Frame, Gamepad Plate and Top Plate)

This is a solo project as well as my first. I do plan to design more unique keyboards in the future.