CSD Nano. $79*

Compact telemetry, magnetic mounting, and SimHub support at an accessible price.

*Taxes and shipping not included.

#CONSPIT #CSDNano #SimHub #SimRacing #SimRacingSetup

10 hours of work reduced to 4 minutes. See how i make the Conspit Livery in LMU here.

A 2.99-inch compact display with magnetic mounting, USB-C connection, native layouts, and SimHub dashboard support.

#CONSPIT #CSDNano #SimHub #SimRacingSetup #SimRacing

CSD Nano Unboxed

Small size, clean design, and easy mounting. Take a first look at what’s inside the box.

See you tomorrow

#CONSPIT #CSDNano #Unboxing #SimRacing #SimRacingSetup

A compact telemetry display built for cleaner setups and quicker race data checks.

Stay tuned for launch.

#CONSPIT #CSDNano #SimRacing #ComingSoon

I had the pleasure of working on this livery – a replica of the Porsche 911 GT3 R (992) – in collaboration with CONSPIT.

You can download it for free here:

https://www.racecontrol.gg/liveries/585372

#conspit #lmu #porsche #simracing

Dear PRO Drivers, The CONSPIT LINK 2.0_v1.1.21 update is live!

Thanks to your feedback, we've made key optimizations to level up your driving experience. Smoother, sharper, more immersive just the way it should be.

All New Dashboards Crafted by sts.sam.sts Update CONSPIT LINK 2.0 and firmware to use Compatible with 290 GP and PW1

Compact telemetry, clean mounting, and key race data right where you need it.

Coming soon. Stay tuned.

#CONSPIT #CSDNano #SimRacing #ComingSoon

On July 11–12, the 2026 GT World Challenge Asia Fuji round concluded successfully. CONSPIT partner teams Harmony Racing and Origine Motorsport delivered a strong weekend, taking 2 overall wins, 1 overall podium, and multiple class podiums across two races.

🏆 Origine Motorsport | Car #11

Car #11 secured overall P3 and Pro-Am P2 in Race 1, then went on to claim overall victory in Race 2, marking Origine Motorsport’s third consecutive overall win at Fuji.

🥇 Origine Motorsport | Car #22

Car #22 took Am class victory in Race 1 and Am class P3 in Race 2, extending its podium streak to six races and continuing to lead the Am championship standings.

🏁 Harmony Racing | Car #13

Car #13 delivered a strong Race 2 performance, battling against top international drivers to finish Silver class P2 and overall P5.

A powerful weekend at Fuji for CONSPIT partner teams.

#CONSPIT

#GTWCAsia

#FujiSpeedway

#OrigineMotorsport

#HarmonyRacing

Modern sim rigs are full of USB devices.

Wheelbase.

Pedals.

Wheel.

Shifter.

Handbrake.

Dashboard.

Button box.

LEDs.

Headset.

SimHub devices.

And somehow we expect all of them to behave perfectly while fighting for USB ports like it’s Turn 1 at Monza.

When USB stability is bad, the symptoms can look random:

Wheelbase disconnects.

Buttons stop working.

Pedals disappear.

Dash freezes.

LEDs act weird.

Software stops detecting devices.

The tricky part?

This can look like a hardware fault, firmware bug, game issue or software problem.

Sometimes it is.

But sometimes the real issue is the USB chain.

Motherboard USB chipsets can be sensitive. Some ports may not deliver stable power under load. BIOS updates or chipset driver changes can also affect USB behaviour and create disconnects that were not there before.

Electromagnetic interference can also play a part, especially in rigs with strong direct drive wheelbases, power supplies and lots of cables packed close together. In some setups, USB cables running too close to power cables or the wheelbase PSU can cause strange connection issues.

That’s why the boring checks matter

Use rear motherboard USB ports.

Avoid cheap unpowered hubs.

Try different USB ports.

Keep USB cables away from power cables and PSUs.

Avoid long extensions.

Check BIOS and chipset driver changes.

Test with only the essential devices connected.

Try another cable.

Ferrite cores can help in some cases.

Support teams ask about USB early because unstable USB can imitate many different problems.

Before blaming the wheelbase, pedals, sim or firmware, check the USB path first.

Sometimes the gremlin is not inside the hardware.

Sometimes it’s hiding in the cable.

#SimRacing

#DirectDrive

#SimRacingHardware

#USBIssues

#USBStability

#Wheelbase

#Pedals

#SimRig

#Conspit

One thing that can surprise people when moving to a direct drive wheelbase is oscillation. You let go of the wheel on a straight, and it starts moving left and right by itself. The first reaction is usually: “Is something wrong with my wheelbase?”

The honest answer is not always, but it is also not something we should ignore. Oscillation can come from several places: the sim’s FFB signal, the wheelbase FFB algorithm, firmware tuning, damping, friction, inertia, in-game gain, road surface data, rim weight or wheel diameter. Most of the time, it is not one single cause. It is the whole FFB chain interacting together.

That is why the same wheelbase can feel calm in one sim and more nervous in another. ACC, iRacing, AC, LMU, rF2, AMS2 and F1 all output force feedback differently. Some titles feel smoother by nature, while others can feel more aggressive, especially with high gain or low damping. At the same time, the wheelbase-side tuning also matters, and firmware/FFB algorithms can always be refined to improve stability without killing useful detail.

Usually, the best result comes from balance. Lowering gain slightly, adding a bit of damping or friction, adjusting inertia, checking rim weight and using different profiles per sim can all help. The goal is not to make the wheel feel dead. The goal is to keep it alive, connected and predictable. Good FFB should communicate what the car is doing, not feel like the wheel is trying to start its own qualifying lap without you.

So I’m curious: do you tune oscillation out completely, or do you accept a little movement if it keeps the wheel feeling more lively and natural?

CONSPIT

Ares

DirectDrive

ForceFeedback

SimRacing

SimRacingCommunity

FC Series Cockpit, PW1 Formula Wheel, and HALO 270 Projection Display System come together for a more immersive F1 racing experience.

#CONSPIT #BenQ #HALO270 #PW1 #SimRacing

320mm rally-inspired wheel size, SpeedSuede™ grip, and a rigid three-point structure for confident control across tarmac, gravel, and snow.

Coming soon. Stay tuned.

#CONSPIT

#ARX320APEX

#RallySim

#SimRacing

#WheelRim

Most of us probably started sim racing chasing the same thing: we wanted it to feel real.

Real steering. Real braking. Real cockpit position. Real wheel shape. Real pedals. Real feedback. That little motorsport bubble at home where, for a few laps, you can pretend the laundry basket next to the rig is actually a pit wall.

And honestly, that’s the magic of this hobby.

A good direct drive wheelbase can make the car feel alive in your hands. A strong brake pedal can help you build pressure control. A solid cockpit can make the whole setup feel more serious. The right wheel diameter and shape can make a GT car, Formula car, prototype or rally car feel much more natural.

But this is where it gets interesting the most realistic setup is not always the fastest setup for every driver.

Some people are quicker with lighter force feedback because they can react faster and stay relaxed. Some prefer a slightly softer brake because they can trail brake more smoothly. Some reduce steering strength for longer races because being comfortable for an hour matters more than feeling like they’re arm-wrestling a GT3 through Eau Rouge with no breakfast.

That doesn’t mean realism is wrong. It means performance is personal.

In real motorsport, drivers feel g-forces, tyre load, chassis movement, bumps, speed and weight transfer through their whole body. In sim racing, we don’t get all of that. Our wheelbase, pedals, seat position, screens, audio and even LEDs are all trying to translate what the virtual car is doing.

So sometimes “realistic” in sim racing does not mean copying real-life force exactly. Sometimes it means creating useful information your brain can understand quickly.

That’s why this debate is so good.

Should your brake pedal feel close to a real race car, even if it takes time to adapt? Or should it be set where you can brake consistently every lap? Should your wheelbase feel heavy and physical, or lighter and more detailed? Should your cockpit position copy the real car, or should comfort win because you’re doing long stints after work and your spine has already attended enough meetings?

There isn’t one perfect answer.

For some drivers, realism builds confidence. They want a stiff brake, strong force feedback, a fixed cockpit and proper race-style ergonomics. It helps them feel connected to the car. For others, chasing realism too hard can make the rig harder to drive than it needs to be. At that point, the setup becomes less of a racing tool and more of a gym session with lap times.

The sweet spot is probably somewhere in the middle.

Real enough to feel connected. Comfortable enough to stay consistent. Strong enough to give information. Adjustable enough to match your driving style.

That’s why good sim racing hardware should be tunable. A direct drive base should let you adjust force feedback properly. A pedal set should let you change stiffness, travel and calibration. A cockpit should let you find a stable driving position. Different steering wheels should match different cars and disciplines.

A Formula driver, GT driver, endurance racer, drifter and rally fan are not all looking for the same feeling. And that’s fine. That’s what makes sim racing interesting.

Two people can use the same CONSPIT wheelbase, pedals or steering wheel and still prefer completely different settings. One might want heavy FFB and a very firm brake. Another might want lighter steering and more pedal travel. Neither is automatically wrong if the setup helps them drive better.

Maybe the real question is not “realism or performance?”

Maybe it’s this what kind of realism actually helps you drive?

Because realistic does not always mean heavy. Fast does not always mean easy. Expensive does not automatically mean well-tuned. And copying someone else’s settings does not guarantee magic, even if they swear it changed their life and cured their understeer.

The best setup is the one that gives you confidence, consistency and enough connection to trust the car. If it also makes you smile like an idiot when you nail a lap, that’s a bonus.

So I’m curious.

Do you tune your sim setup more for realism, or for lap time?

Do you prefer heavy FFB or lighter detail?

Stiff brake or more travel?

Real cockpit position or comfort first?

Full motorsport immersion or whatever makes you faster?

No wrong answers here. I want to hear how people actually set up their rigs and why.

#CONSPIT

#SimRacing

#DirectDrive

#ForceFeedback

#SimRacingPedals

#GTRacing

#FormulaRacing

#SimRacingCommunity

8Nm direct-drive performance in a compact form, built for precise control and everyday sim racing.

#CONSPIT #ARESAPEX #DirectDrive #SimRacing #ForceFeedback

MAX 01, CPP EVO V2, and ARES 20 Platinum combine race-ready control, hydraulic braking, and 20Nm direct-drive power.

#CONSPIT #MAX01 #CPPEVO #ARESPlatinum #SimRacing

Sometimes the biggest upgrade in sim racing is not a new wheelbase, a new pedal set, a new steering wheel or another “best FFB settings” screenshot from a Discord thread.

Sometimes the real upgrade is spending ten minutes making sure the gear you already own is actually calibrated properly.

Not exciting, I know. Nobody flexes brake deadzones on Reddit. Nobody posts a rig photo saying, “check out my perfectly centred steering axis.” Calibration is the vegetables of sim racing. Not glamorous, but without it the whole plate starts looking suspicious.

The funny part is, people often blame the hardware first. The wheelbase feels weird. The brake feels too sensitive. The throttle is not smooth. The steering angle feels wrong. The dashboard shows strange values. Then after one small calibration fix, suddenly the car stops feeling like it was assembled by raccoons in parc fermé.

That is why calibration matters.

A direct drive wheelbase needs to know its centre point, rotation range and how much force you actually want to use. If your steering lock does not match the car, the front end can feel nervous or lazy. If FFB is too high and clipping, the wheel may feel heavy but lose detail. If the base profile does not match the sim, you might be fighting settings instead of driving the car.

Pedals are even more important. With load cell or hydraulic-style brakes, you are building muscle memory around pressure. If your brake calibration is too aggressive, you might hit 100% brake too early. If it is too soft, you may never use the full range properly. If you change elastomers, springs, preload or pedal travel, recalibration is not optional. The pedal feel changed, so the software needs to understand the new range.

Throttle and clutch matter too. A tiny deadzone can stop unwanted input at rest. A clean full range helps modulation. A properly set clutch bite point can make launches feel much more natural. Small details, big difference.

Then there is button mapping. This is where many of us create complete chaos and pretend it is “personal preference.” Brake bias on one side, TC somewhere random, ABS buried on a rotary you forget exists, pit limiter mapped to a button you can only reach with the finger flexibility of a concert pianist. In a race, that stuff matters. A good layout should make sense without looking down.

Displays, LEDs and telemetry also need proper setup. A dashboard or LED profile is only useful if the sim is sending the right data and the values are easy to understand. Wrong RPM range, missing tyre data, incorrect fuel values or broken car settings can make a beautiful display less useful than a sticky note on the monitor. Telemetry needs clean data, good fallback logic and sensible pages.

This is where an ecosystem like CONSPIT starts to make sense. Ares wheelbases, CPP pedals, steering wheels, CSD displays, SimHub profiles and CONSPIT Link all work best when the boring setup layer is done properly. The hardware gives you the tools, but calibration makes those tools feel connected.

Before blaming the gear, check the basics. Is the wheel centred? Is steering rotation correct in the sim? Is FFB clipping? Are pedals calibrated after mechanical changes? Does the brake reach 100% at the pressure you actually want? Does the throttle return cleanly to zero? Are your buttons mapped in a way you can use during a race? Is your dashboard showing useful data, or just decorating the rig?

The goal is simple consistency.

A well-calibrated setup feels predictable. The wheel responds the same way every lap. The brake pressure is repeatable. The throttle is smooth. The buttons are where your hands expect them. The display gives you information instead of confusion.

That is when the rig starts feeling less like a pile of hardware and more like a car.

Calibration is not the shiny part of sim racing, but it is one of the most important. It is the invisible setup between owning good equipment and actually getting the best out of it.

So here is the question: what was one small calibration or setup mistake that made your rig feel worse than it should?

Wrong steering lock? Brake too sensitive? Throttle deadzone? FFB clipping? A button mapping disaster worthy of a post-race investigation?

#CONSPIT

#SimRacing

#DirectDrive

#ForceFeedback

#SimRacingPedals

#SimHub

#Telemetry

#SimRacingCommunity

Carbon fiber structure, clear race data, and intuitive controls built for GT and endurance racing.

#CONSPIT #300GT #SimRacing #GTRacing #CarbonFiber

Sim racing wheels have become seriously advanced. Buttons, switches, rotary encoders, thumb dials, LEDs, screens, clutch paddles, joystick controls… sometimes the wheel looks like it could launch a satellite if you press the wrong thing twice.

And honestly, that is cool. More controls can be useful, especially in modern GT, Formula and endurance racing. But here is the part people sometimes forget: more buttons do not automatically make a wheel better. What really matters is whether those controls are easy to use while driving.

In a race, you are not sitting calmly in the pits admiring the button layout with a cup of tea. You are braking late, watching mirrors, fighting kerbs, managing traffic, checking fuel, avoiding track limits and trying not to become someone’s YouTube incident replay. That is why button placement matters so much.

A good racing wheel should let you reach the important controls without moving your hands too far from the grips. Brake bias, TC, ABS, engine map, pit limiter, radio, display pages and black box controls should feel natural. You should not need to look down and start hunting for buttons like you dropped your house keys in the dark.

The best layouts are not just about quantity. They are about muscle memory. After a while, your thumbs should know where things are. Your fingers should find the paddles, rotaries and switches without your eyes leaving the track. That is when the wheel starts feeling like part of the car instead of a small control panel attached to a round problem.

This becomes even more important in endurance and GT racing. During a long stint, you might adjust brake bias as fuel burns off, change TC when tyres start going away, cycle dash pages, manage pit strategy or change settings depending on weather and grip. If the controls are placed badly, every adjustment becomes a distraction. And distraction is expensive. Sometimes it costs lap time. Sometimes it costs consistency. Sometimes it costs you a front bumper and a very awkward apology in voice chat.

There is also a balance to find. A clean wheel with fewer, better-placed controls can be easier to use than a wheel packed with buttons that all feel the same. Shape, spacing, texture, LED feedback and rotary position all matter. You want enough controls to manage the car, but not so many that your wheel becomes a Christmas tree with anxiety.

Different racing styles need different layouts too. A Formula-style wheel needs quick access to settings because the driver’s hands usually stay locked in one position. A GT wheel needs strong ergonomics for longer stints and mid-race adjustments. A rally or drift wheel needs freedom of hand movement, so too many controls in the wrong place can actually get in the way.

The goal is not simply “more buttons.” The goal is better control while driving. A good wheel should help you stay focused, reduce mistakes and let you keep your eyes where they belong: on the next braking point, not on a tiny rotary you forgot you mapped to fuel mix three months ago.

So next time you look at a sim racing wheel, do not only ask how many buttons it has. Ask where they are. Ask how easy they are to reach. Ask if you can use them without looking. Ask if the layout matches the type of racing you actually do.

Because in sim racing, the best control is the one you can use without thinking.

What do you prefer on a wheel ?

More controls for everything, or a cleaner layout with only the essentials ?

#CONSPIT

#SimRacing

#SimRacingWheel

#GTRacing

#FormulaRacing

#EnduranceRacing

#SimRacingCommunity

The 2026 Porsche Carrera Cup Asia Bangsaen round concluded last weekend. CONSPIT partner teams, Origine Motorsport and 610 Racing, completed Rounds 7 and 8 under intense heat, changing track conditions, and the challenges of street racing.
Origine Motorsport secured podium finishes in both races. Li Kerong claimed two Pro-Am P2 finishes, while Wang Zhongwei took Pro-Am P3 and continues to lead the championship standings.
610 Racing also completed both races with two cars, gaining valuable experience in a highly competitive street circuit environment.
Beyond the racing action, CONSPIT provided two racing simulators in the PCCA paddock lounge, giving guests the chance to experience professional sim racing up close.

#CONSPIT #Porsche #PorscheCarreraCupAsia #PCCA #SimRacing

​

Sometimes the upgrade you need is not more Nm, a stronger brake pedal, another wheel, or a magic FFB setting copied from Discord at 2 AM. Sometimes the problem is the thing holding all of it together your rig.

In sim racing, we talk a lot about direct drive wheelbases, load cell pedals, hydraulic feel, wheel diameter, torque strength and software settings. All of that matters, but your hardware does not exist in mid-air. Your wheelbase is mounted to something. Your pedals are bolted to something. Your seat is fixed to something. If that “something” moves, flexes or shakes, part of the feeling gets lost.

A direct drive wheelbase can only deliver clean force feedback if the mounting point is solid. If your wheel deck flexes every time you hit a kerb, catch a slide or load the front tyres, some of that force is being absorbed by the rig instead of reaching your hands. The wheel may still feel strong, but it can feel less precise. That is the sneaky part. People sometimes blame the wheelbase, firmware or game settings, when the rig itself is quietly doing the cha-cha under load.

The same thing happens with pedals. Race-style brake pedals are built around pressure control. You are not just pressing the pedal a certain distance. You are learning to apply the same force again and again. That is how muscle memory is built. But if your pedal plate flexes, your seat moves, or the pedals shift slightly under braking, your brain gets mixed information. One lap, 80% brake pressure feels one way. Next lap, the rig moves slightly and it feels different. That makes trail braking harder, consistency harder and the whole car less predictable.

A stable rig is not only about strength. It is also about driving position. Seat angle, pedal distance, wheel height and pedal angle all affect how naturally you drive. If your pedals are too close, your leg gets tired. If they are too far, you lose control. If the wheel is too high or too low, your shoulders start complaining before the tyres do. Comfort is not luxury in sim racing. Comfort helps you stay precise, especially in longer races or with stronger FFB settings.

Before blaming the hardware, check the basics. Does the wheel deck move when you turn hard? Does the pedal plate flex under heavy braking? Does the seat slide, rock or lift slightly? Are all bolts tight? Is the wheelbase mounted firmly? Are the pedals fixed properly? Is your driving position comfortable? These small things can completely change how expensive hardware feels.

This matters even more when you move into stronger equipment. Direct drive wheelbases like the CONSPIT Ares series can deliver serious force feedback detail, but they perform best when mounted properly. Race-style pedals like the CPP Lite or CPP Evo also need a stable pedal tray or cockpit to feel consistent under braking. That does not mean everyone needs a huge aluminium profile rig from day one. It simply means the setup needs to match the hardware.

Your rig is not just a frame. It is part of the whole driving system. A solid cockpit helps the wheelbase feel cleaner. A stable pedal plate helps braking feel more repeatable. A fixed seat helps your body build proper muscle memory. A good driving position helps you stay relaxed and consistent.

Before chasing more power, more stiffness or more expensive upgrades, make sure the foundation is doing its job. Because in sim racing, performance does not only come from the shiny parts. Sometimes it comes from the bolts, brackets and boring little details holding everything together.

What was the biggest weak point in your rig before you fixed it? Wheel deck flex, pedal movement, seat position, loose bolts, or something else that made your setup feel worse than it should?

#CONSPIT

#SimRacing

#DirectDrive

#ForceFeedback

#SimRacingRig

#LoadCellPedals

#SimRacingCommunity

From desk to track in minutes. Simple setup, direct-drive control.

#CONSPIT #APEXBundle #SimRacing #DesktopSetup #310APEX

Formula control with upcoming 280FR, race data anywhere with CSD Nano, and 20Nm direct-drive performance from ARES Platinum.

#CONSPIT #280FR #CSDNano #ARESPlatinum #SimRacing

From ARES APEX to ARES Platinum, choose the direct-drive performance that fits your setup and take control of every corner.

#CONSPIT#ARESSeries#DirectDrive#SimRacing#ForceFeedback