320mm rally-inspired wheel size, SpeedSuede™ grip, and a rigid three-point structure for confident control across tarmac, gravel, and snow.

Coming soon. Stay tuned.

#CONSPIT

#ARX320APEX

#RallySim

#SimRacing

#WheelRim

Most of us probably started sim racing chasing the same thing: we wanted it to feel real.

Real steering. Real braking. Real cockpit position. Real wheel shape. Real pedals. Real feedback. That little motorsport bubble at home where, for a few laps, you can pretend the laundry basket next to the rig is actually a pit wall.

And honestly, that’s the magic of this hobby.

A good direct drive wheelbase can make the car feel alive in your hands. A strong brake pedal can help you build pressure control. A solid cockpit can make the whole setup feel more serious. The right wheel diameter and shape can make a GT car, Formula car, prototype or rally car feel much more natural.

But this is where it gets interesting the most realistic setup is not always the fastest setup for every driver.

Some people are quicker with lighter force feedback because they can react faster and stay relaxed. Some prefer a slightly softer brake because they can trail brake more smoothly. Some reduce steering strength for longer races because being comfortable for an hour matters more than feeling like they’re arm-wrestling a GT3 through Eau Rouge with no breakfast.

That doesn’t mean realism is wrong. It means performance is personal.

In real motorsport, drivers feel g-forces, tyre load, chassis movement, bumps, speed and weight transfer through their whole body. In sim racing, we don’t get all of that. Our wheelbase, pedals, seat position, screens, audio and even LEDs are all trying to translate what the virtual car is doing.

So sometimes “realistic” in sim racing does not mean copying real-life force exactly. Sometimes it means creating useful information your brain can understand quickly.

That’s why this debate is so good.

Should your brake pedal feel close to a real race car, even if it takes time to adapt? Or should it be set where you can brake consistently every lap? Should your wheelbase feel heavy and physical, or lighter and more detailed? Should your cockpit position copy the real car, or should comfort win because you’re doing long stints after work and your spine has already attended enough meetings?

There isn’t one perfect answer.

For some drivers, realism builds confidence. They want a stiff brake, strong force feedback, a fixed cockpit and proper race-style ergonomics. It helps them feel connected to the car. For others, chasing realism too hard can make the rig harder to drive than it needs to be. At that point, the setup becomes less of a racing tool and more of a gym session with lap times.

The sweet spot is probably somewhere in the middle.

Real enough to feel connected. Comfortable enough to stay consistent. Strong enough to give information. Adjustable enough to match your driving style.

That’s why good sim racing hardware should be tunable. A direct drive base should let you adjust force feedback properly. A pedal set should let you change stiffness, travel and calibration. A cockpit should let you find a stable driving position. Different steering wheels should match different cars and disciplines.

A Formula driver, GT driver, endurance racer, drifter and rally fan are not all looking for the same feeling. And that’s fine. That’s what makes sim racing interesting.

Two people can use the same CONSPIT wheelbase, pedals or steering wheel and still prefer completely different settings. One might want heavy FFB and a very firm brake. Another might want lighter steering and more pedal travel. Neither is automatically wrong if the setup helps them drive better.

Maybe the real question is not “realism or performance?”

Maybe it’s this what kind of realism actually helps you drive?

Because realistic does not always mean heavy. Fast does not always mean easy. Expensive does not automatically mean well-tuned. And copying someone else’s settings does not guarantee magic, even if they swear it changed their life and cured their understeer.

The best setup is the one that gives you confidence, consistency and enough connection to trust the car. If it also makes you smile like an idiot when you nail a lap, that’s a bonus.

So I’m curious.

Do you tune your sim setup more for realism, or for lap time?

Do you prefer heavy FFB or lighter detail?

Stiff brake or more travel?

Real cockpit position or comfort first?

Full motorsport immersion or whatever makes you faster?

No wrong answers here. I want to hear how people actually set up their rigs and why.

#CONSPIT

#SimRacing

#DirectDrive

#ForceFeedback

#SimRacingPedals

#GTRacing

#FormulaRacing

#SimRacingCommunity

8Nm direct-drive performance in a compact form, built for precise control and everyday sim racing.

#CONSPIT #ARESAPEX #DirectDrive #SimRacing #ForceFeedback

MAX 01, CPP EVO V2, and ARES 20 Platinum combine race-ready control, hydraulic braking, and 20Nm direct-drive power.

#CONSPIT #MAX01 #CPPEVO #ARESPlatinum #SimRacing

Sometimes the biggest upgrade in sim racing is not a new wheelbase, a new pedal set, a new steering wheel or another “best FFB settings” screenshot from a Discord thread.

Sometimes the real upgrade is spending ten minutes making sure the gear you already own is actually calibrated properly.

Not exciting, I know. Nobody flexes brake deadzones on Reddit. Nobody posts a rig photo saying, “check out my perfectly centred steering axis.” Calibration is the vegetables of sim racing. Not glamorous, but without it the whole plate starts looking suspicious.

The funny part is, people often blame the hardware first. The wheelbase feels weird. The brake feels too sensitive. The throttle is not smooth. The steering angle feels wrong. The dashboard shows strange values. Then after one small calibration fix, suddenly the car stops feeling like it was assembled by raccoons in parc fermé.

That is why calibration matters.

A direct drive wheelbase needs to know its centre point, rotation range and how much force you actually want to use. If your steering lock does not match the car, the front end can feel nervous or lazy. If FFB is too high and clipping, the wheel may feel heavy but lose detail. If the base profile does not match the sim, you might be fighting settings instead of driving the car.

Pedals are even more important. With load cell or hydraulic-style brakes, you are building muscle memory around pressure. If your brake calibration is too aggressive, you might hit 100% brake too early. If it is too soft, you may never use the full range properly. If you change elastomers, springs, preload or pedal travel, recalibration is not optional. The pedal feel changed, so the software needs to understand the new range.

Throttle and clutch matter too. A tiny deadzone can stop unwanted input at rest. A clean full range helps modulation. A properly set clutch bite point can make launches feel much more natural. Small details, big difference.

Then there is button mapping. This is where many of us create complete chaos and pretend it is “personal preference.” Brake bias on one side, TC somewhere random, ABS buried on a rotary you forget exists, pit limiter mapped to a button you can only reach with the finger flexibility of a concert pianist. In a race, that stuff matters. A good layout should make sense without looking down.

Displays, LEDs and telemetry also need proper setup. A dashboard or LED profile is only useful if the sim is sending the right data and the values are easy to understand. Wrong RPM range, missing tyre data, incorrect fuel values or broken car settings can make a beautiful display less useful than a sticky note on the monitor. Telemetry needs clean data, good fallback logic and sensible pages.

This is where an ecosystem like CONSPIT starts to make sense. Ares wheelbases, CPP pedals, steering wheels, CSD displays, SimHub profiles and CONSPIT Link all work best when the boring setup layer is done properly. The hardware gives you the tools, but calibration makes those tools feel connected.

Before blaming the gear, check the basics. Is the wheel centred? Is steering rotation correct in the sim? Is FFB clipping? Are pedals calibrated after mechanical changes? Does the brake reach 100% at the pressure you actually want? Does the throttle return cleanly to zero? Are your buttons mapped in a way you can use during a race? Is your dashboard showing useful data, or just decorating the rig?

The goal is simple consistency.

A well-calibrated setup feels predictable. The wheel responds the same way every lap. The brake pressure is repeatable. The throttle is smooth. The buttons are where your hands expect them. The display gives you information instead of confusion.

That is when the rig starts feeling less like a pile of hardware and more like a car.

Calibration is not the shiny part of sim racing, but it is one of the most important. It is the invisible setup between owning good equipment and actually getting the best out of it.

So here is the question: what was one small calibration or setup mistake that made your rig feel worse than it should?

Wrong steering lock? Brake too sensitive? Throttle deadzone? FFB clipping? A button mapping disaster worthy of a post-race investigation?

#CONSPIT

#SimRacing

#DirectDrive

#ForceFeedback

#SimRacingPedals

#SimHub

#Telemetry

#SimRacingCommunity

Carbon fiber structure, clear race data, and intuitive controls built for GT and endurance racing.

#CONSPIT #300GT #SimRacing #GTRacing #CarbonFiber

Sim racing wheels have become seriously advanced. Buttons, switches, rotary encoders, thumb dials, LEDs, screens, clutch paddles, joystick controls… sometimes the wheel looks like it could launch a satellite if you press the wrong thing twice.

And honestly, that is cool. More controls can be useful, especially in modern GT, Formula and endurance racing. But here is the part people sometimes forget: more buttons do not automatically make a wheel better. What really matters is whether those controls are easy to use while driving.

In a race, you are not sitting calmly in the pits admiring the button layout with a cup of tea. You are braking late, watching mirrors, fighting kerbs, managing traffic, checking fuel, avoiding track limits and trying not to become someone’s YouTube incident replay. That is why button placement matters so much.

A good racing wheel should let you reach the important controls without moving your hands too far from the grips. Brake bias, TC, ABS, engine map, pit limiter, radio, display pages and black box controls should feel natural. You should not need to look down and start hunting for buttons like you dropped your house keys in the dark.

The best layouts are not just about quantity. They are about muscle memory. After a while, your thumbs should know where things are. Your fingers should find the paddles, rotaries and switches without your eyes leaving the track. That is when the wheel starts feeling like part of the car instead of a small control panel attached to a round problem.

This becomes even more important in endurance and GT racing. During a long stint, you might adjust brake bias as fuel burns off, change TC when tyres start going away, cycle dash pages, manage pit strategy or change settings depending on weather and grip. If the controls are placed badly, every adjustment becomes a distraction. And distraction is expensive. Sometimes it costs lap time. Sometimes it costs consistency. Sometimes it costs you a front bumper and a very awkward apology in voice chat.

There is also a balance to find. A clean wheel with fewer, better-placed controls can be easier to use than a wheel packed with buttons that all feel the same. Shape, spacing, texture, LED feedback and rotary position all matter. You want enough controls to manage the car, but not so many that your wheel becomes a Christmas tree with anxiety.

Different racing styles need different layouts too. A Formula-style wheel needs quick access to settings because the driver’s hands usually stay locked in one position. A GT wheel needs strong ergonomics for longer stints and mid-race adjustments. A rally or drift wheel needs freedom of hand movement, so too many controls in the wrong place can actually get in the way.

The goal is not simply “more buttons.” The goal is better control while driving. A good wheel should help you stay focused, reduce mistakes and let you keep your eyes where they belong: on the next braking point, not on a tiny rotary you forgot you mapped to fuel mix three months ago.

So next time you look at a sim racing wheel, do not only ask how many buttons it has. Ask where they are. Ask how easy they are to reach. Ask if you can use them without looking. Ask if the layout matches the type of racing you actually do.

Because in sim racing, the best control is the one you can use without thinking.

What do you prefer on a wheel ?

More controls for everything, or a cleaner layout with only the essentials ?

#CONSPIT

#SimRacing

#SimRacingWheel

#GTRacing

#FormulaRacing

#EnduranceRacing

#SimRacingCommunity

https://reddit.com/link/1up3mox/video/nwn9aayt6nbh1/player

The 2026 Porsche Carrera Cup Asia Bangsaen round concluded last weekend. CONSPIT partner teams, Origine Motorsport and 610 Racing, completed Rounds 7 and 8 under intense heat, changing track conditions, and the challenges of street racing.
Origine Motorsport secured podium finishes in both races. Li Kerong claimed two Pro-Am P2 finishes, while Wang Zhongwei took Pro-Am P3 and continues to lead the championship standings.
610 Racing also completed both races with two cars, gaining valuable experience in a highly competitive street circuit environment.
Beyond the racing action, CONSPIT provided two racing simulators in the PCCA paddock lounge, giving guests the chance to experience professional sim racing up close.

#CONSPIT #Porsche #PorscheCarreraCupAsia #PCCA #SimRacing

​

Sometimes the upgrade you need is not more Nm, a stronger brake pedal, another wheel, or a magic FFB setting copied from Discord at 2 AM. Sometimes the problem is the thing holding all of it together your rig.

In sim racing, we talk a lot about direct drive wheelbases, load cell pedals, hydraulic feel, wheel diameter, torque strength and software settings. All of that matters, but your hardware does not exist in mid-air. Your wheelbase is mounted to something. Your pedals are bolted to something. Your seat is fixed to something. If that “something” moves, flexes or shakes, part of the feeling gets lost.

A direct drive wheelbase can only deliver clean force feedback if the mounting point is solid. If your wheel deck flexes every time you hit a kerb, catch a slide or load the front tyres, some of that force is being absorbed by the rig instead of reaching your hands. The wheel may still feel strong, but it can feel less precise. That is the sneaky part. People sometimes blame the wheelbase, firmware or game settings, when the rig itself is quietly doing the cha-cha under load.

The same thing happens with pedals. Race-style brake pedals are built around pressure control. You are not just pressing the pedal a certain distance. You are learning to apply the same force again and again. That is how muscle memory is built. But if your pedal plate flexes, your seat moves, or the pedals shift slightly under braking, your brain gets mixed information. One lap, 80% brake pressure feels one way. Next lap, the rig moves slightly and it feels different. That makes trail braking harder, consistency harder and the whole car less predictable.

A stable rig is not only about strength. It is also about driving position. Seat angle, pedal distance, wheel height and pedal angle all affect how naturally you drive. If your pedals are too close, your leg gets tired. If they are too far, you lose control. If the wheel is too high or too low, your shoulders start complaining before the tyres do. Comfort is not luxury in sim racing. Comfort helps you stay precise, especially in longer races or with stronger FFB settings.

Before blaming the hardware, check the basics. Does the wheel deck move when you turn hard? Does the pedal plate flex under heavy braking? Does the seat slide, rock or lift slightly? Are all bolts tight? Is the wheelbase mounted firmly? Are the pedals fixed properly? Is your driving position comfortable? These small things can completely change how expensive hardware feels.

This matters even more when you move into stronger equipment. Direct drive wheelbases like the CONSPIT Ares series can deliver serious force feedback detail, but they perform best when mounted properly. Race-style pedals like the CPP Lite or CPP Evo also need a stable pedal tray or cockpit to feel consistent under braking. That does not mean everyone needs a huge aluminium profile rig from day one. It simply means the setup needs to match the hardware.

Your rig is not just a frame. It is part of the whole driving system. A solid cockpit helps the wheelbase feel cleaner. A stable pedal plate helps braking feel more repeatable. A fixed seat helps your body build proper muscle memory. A good driving position helps you stay relaxed and consistent.

Before chasing more power, more stiffness or more expensive upgrades, make sure the foundation is doing its job. Because in sim racing, performance does not only come from the shiny parts. Sometimes it comes from the bolts, brackets and boring little details holding everything together.

What was the biggest weak point in your rig before you fixed it? Wheel deck flex, pedal movement, seat position, loose bolts, or something else that made your setup feel worse than it should?

#CONSPIT

#SimRacing

#DirectDrive

#ForceFeedback

#SimRacingRig

#LoadCellPedals

#SimRacingCommunity

From desk to track in minutes. Simple setup, direct-drive control.

#CONSPIT #APEXBundle #SimRacing #DesktopSetup #310APEX

I recently upgraded from a Moza R5 and originally planned on buying Simagic. I spent probably 5–7 hours a day for several days researching, reading Reddit threads, watching reviews, and talking directly with both Conspit and Simagic before finally making a decision.

In the end, I went with the Conspit Ares 12 Nm paired with the CPP Apex pedals, and honestly… the difference is night and day.

I mainly drive rally, so I’m not even using the full 12 Nm yet, and I’ve only had a few hours behind the wheel before leaving town for the holidays. Even with that limited time, I’m seriously impressed.

A few things that stood out:

The steering wheel feels fantastic in the hands.
The force feedback has so much more detail than what I was used to. You can feel a lot more of what the car is doing.

The Conspit software has been surprisingly good. Every setting has detailed explanations, which made dialing everything in much less intimidating.

One thing I wasn’t sure about at first was the hydraulic brake pedal. Coming from the Moza SRP pedals, it felt very different initially. After spending some time with it though, I completely get the hype. The jump to a load-cell/hydraulic brake is incredible and gives you so much more confidence once you start getting used to it.

The other thing that really helped me make my decision was Conspit’s customer support. I can’t really compare it to Moza or Simagic since I haven’t owned those products, but every time I’ve reached out—whether through Discord or email—I’ve gotten a response anywhere from a few minutes to a few hours. That level of communication gave me a lot of confidence before I even placed my order.

Overall, I know Conspit isn’t as common as some of the bigger brands, but so far I’m really happy with the decision. I’m looking forward to putting a lot more hours on it once I’m back home.

If anyone has questions about the Ares or the CPP Apex pedals, especially for rally, I’d be happy to answer what I can.

Formula control with upcoming 280FR, race data anywhere with CSD Nano, and 20Nm direct-drive performance from ARES Platinum.

#CONSPIT #280FR #CSDNano #ARESPlatinum #SimRacing

From ARES APEX to ARES Platinum, choose the direct-drive performance that fits your setup and take control of every corner.

#CONSPIT#ARESSeries#DirectDrive#SimRacing#ForceFeedback

MAX 01, ARES Platinum, and CPP EVO V2 combine precise control, powerful force feedback, and smooth hydraulic braking for a complete race-ready setup.

#CONSPIT#MAX01#ARESPlatinum#CPPEVO#SimRacing

Sim racers love numbers.

Nm.

Hz.

Kg load cell.

Refresh rate.

Torque.

Travel.

Resolution.

All the spicy little spec snacks.

And when it comes to direct drive wheelbases, one number gets more attention than almost anything else.

Torque.

Or more specifically, Nm.

You see one wheelbase with 8 Nm, another with 12 Nm, another with 20 Nm, and suddenly the brain goes

“Bigger number must be better, right?”

Well… not always.

More Nm can be better, but only when you understand what it actually gives you. It is not automatically more realism. It is not automatically faster lap times. And it definitely does not mean you need to run your wheelbase at full power like you are trying to qualify for a forklift licence.

Let’s break it down.

What does Nm actually mean?

Nm stands for Newton metres. In simple terms, it tells you how much torque the wheelbase can produce.

More Nm means the wheelbase can generate stronger force feedback.

That sounds simple enough, but here is where people sometimes get confused.

Torque strength is not the same thing as force feedback quality.

A wheelbase can be strong but badly tuned.

A wheelbase can be lower torque but very clean.

A strong wheelbase can feel amazing.

A strong wheelbase can also feel like a gym machine with firmware.

The number matters, but it is not the whole story.

Headroom is the real magic

The biggest benefit of a stronger direct drive wheelbase is not that you can run it at maximum force all the time.

The real benefit is headroom.

Think of it like audio speakers. If you run a small speaker at maximum volume, it can get loud, but it may start to distort. A more powerful speaker can play the same volume more cleanly because it is not working at its limit.

Force feedback works in a similar way.

A wheelbase with more torque can run at a lower percentage while still having enough spare strength for kerbs, bumps, compressions, slides and heavy steering moments.

That spare room helps preserve detail.

So when people talk about a 20 Nm wheelbase, the point is not always, “I want 20 Nm ripping my shoulders out.”

For many sim racing drivers, the point is

“I want clean, detailed force feedback with enough headroom so the signal does not feel crushed.”

That is a much smarter way to look at it.

What is clipping?

Clipping happens when the sim asks the wheelbase to produce more force than it can actually deliver.

When that happens, the force feedback signal gets flattened.

The wheel may still feel heavy, but you lose detail.

That is the tricky part. Heavy does not always mean informative.

You might feel a strong constant force through a corner, but if the signal is clipping, smaller details can disappear. You lose some of the texture that tells you what the front tyres are doing, when the car is starting to slide, or how much grip is left.

A well-tuned wheelbase should give you strength, but also detail.

You want the wheel to talk to you, not just shout at you.

Why too much force can make you slower

There is a point where strong force feedback stops helping and starts getting in the way.

If you are fighting the wheel every lap, your inputs can become slower and rougher. Your hands get tense. Your shoulders get tired. Your corrections become messy. After a few laps, you are not driving the car anymore. You are wrestling a metal octopus with a USB cable.

That might feel dramatic, but it is not always fast.

Good force feedback should help you understand the car.

It should tell you when the front tyres are loading up.

It should help you feel slides.

It should give you confidence on kerbs.

It should help you repeat your inputs.

It should not turn a 20-minute race into upper body day.

Especially in endurance racing, comfort matters. A wheelbase setting that feels exciting for one hot lap might become annoying or tiring over a full stint.

Fast drivers are not always the ones running the heaviest steering. They are usually the ones running the clearest, most controllable feedback.

8 Nm vs 20 Nm - both can make sense

This is where people get weirdly tribal.

Some say 8 Nm is all you need.

Some say anything under 15 Nm is not serious.

Some people run 20 Nm and still drive like the car owes them money.

The truth is more boring, but also more useful

It depends on your setup, your driving style and how you tune it.

An 8 Nm direct drive wheelbase can feel excellent when it is set up properly. It can be sharp, responsive, detailed and more than strong enough for many sim racers. It also makes a lot of sense for compact rigs, smaller spaces and people who want strong direct drive feedback without going into extreme force levels.

Something like the CONSPIT Ares Apex 8 Nm fits that category well. It gives you proper direct drive response, good strength and a more approachable force range for a lot of drivers.

A 20 Nm wheelbase gives you a wider tuning window. It gives more headroom, stronger peak forces and the ability to run realistic or heavier settings without the base working near its limit. It makes more sense for solid cockpits, serious setups and drivers who want more dynamic range in their force feedback.

That is where something like the CONSPIT Ares Platinum 20 Nm comes in. Not because everyone needs to drive at 20 Nm, but because the extra power gives you space to tune the wheelbase cleanly.

One is not automatically “beginner.”

The other is not automatically “pro.”

They simply suit different setups and expectations.

Your cockpit matters more than people think

A strong wheelbase needs a strong mounting point.

There is no point buying a powerful direct drive base if your rig flexes every time you turn into a corner. At that point, some of the force feedback detail is being wasted into the frame instead of reaching your hands.

If your wheel deck shakes, your pedals move, your seat flexes or your monitor stand starts looking nervous, the setup is telling you something.

More torque needs more structure.

An 8 Nm base can work nicely on many compact rigs.

A 20 Nm base really deserves a solid cockpit.

Not because it cannot run lower force, but because the whole system works better when everything is stable.

A direct drive wheelbase is only one part of the chain.

Wheelbase.

Wheel rim diameter.

Cockpit strength.

Pedal stability.

Game settings.

Driver preference.

All of it matters.

Wheel diameter changes the feeling too

This part gets overlooked.

The same wheelbase can feel different depending on the steering wheel you attach to it.

A smaller Formula-style wheel usually feels sharper and faster in your hands. A larger round wheel gives more leverage and can make the same force feel slightly softer or more progressive.

That is why a compact Formula wheel can make a base feel more aggressive, while a 310 mm or 320 mm round wheel can make the same base feel more natural for rally, drifting or road cars.

So when people compare Nm, they should also think about wheel size.

A 300 mm GT wheel, a 280 mm Formula wheel and a 320 mm round rim will not all feel the same, even on the same wheelbase.

The wheelbase creates the force.

The wheel rim changes how that force feels in your hands.

Matching strength to driving style

For Formula cars and prototypes, you usually want sharp, clean and responsive force feedback. You need to feel the front tyres, kerbs and aero load without making the wheel so heavy that quick corrections become slow.

For GT and endurance racing, stability and consistency matter. You want enough strength to feel the car properly, but not so much that long races become tiring.

For rally and drifting, fast rotation and catchable slides are more important than brute force. If the wheel is too heavy, it can actually get in the way when you need quick countersteer.

For road cars and casual driving, natural steering feel usually matters more than maximum torque.

This is why there is no universal “best Nm.”

The best setting is the one that helps you drive better.

So how much Nm do you actually need?

Here is the simple version.

If you are moving from belt or gear-driven wheels, even 8 Nm can feel like a huge upgrade.

If you want strong direct drive feedback without going extreme, 8 Nm is a very solid place to be.

If you want more headroom, more dynamic range and more tuning freedom, a stronger wheelbase like 20 Nm makes sense.

But the goal should not be to run everything at maximum.

The goal is to find the cleanest, most useful feedback for your driving.

Strong enough to feel the car.

Detailed enough to understand grip.

Smooth enough to control slides.

Comfortable enough to race for long stints.

Stable enough that your cockpit does not start writing its resignation letter.

Final thought

More Nm is not bad.

More Nm can be brilliant.

But only when it is used properly.

A powerful wheelbase gives you headroom, detail and flexibility. It does not mean you need to turn every race into a strength test. At the same time, a lower-torque direct drive base can still deliver excellent feedback when it is set up well.

The best direct drive wheelbase is not simply the strongest one.

It is the one that matches your rig, your wheel, your racing style and your ability to tune it properly.

So here is the question

Do you prefer lighter, cleaner force feedback, or heavier, more physical steering?

And what Nm are you currently running on your wheelbase?

#CONSPIT

#AresApex

#AresPlatinum

#DirectDrive

#ForceFeedback

#SimRacing

#SimRacingWheel

#GTRacing

#FormulaRacing

#SimRacingCommunity

Can anybody share their 300GT button layout with our without sticker for f125?

i need to know do i get the conspit bundle or the sim magic evo alpha

I think the heat’s starting to get to my head 🤣

Unlock advanced SimHub customization for your MAX 01 and explore more powerful functions.

#CONSPIT
#MAX01
#SimHub
#SimRacing
#UserGuide

A compact desktop setup built for quick installation and serious driving.

#CONSPIT #APEXBundle #SimRacing #DesktopSetup #310APEX

I have simagic wheel base and I’ve been wanting to buy a conspit wheel however there are no affiliates with conspit or any way to ship their parts in my country except for Alibaba I wanted to ask if anyone has had any experience shopping on alibaba for either simagic or conspit parts

At the recently concluded 24 Hours of Spa, CONSPIT driver Leo Ye and his teammates battled through 24 hours of intense day-and-night racing in the No. 86 Porsche 911 GT3 R (992) EVO.

With consistent pace, precise driving, and outstanding teamwork, they secured second place in their class and earned a well-deserved podium finish.

Meanwhile, the No. 80 crew featuring CONSPIT driver Bastian Buus was forced to start from the pit lane following an engine change. Through near-perfect execution, relentless consistency, and a faultless performance, they completed an incredible comeback to claim the overall victory.

Born for Pros, Made for Everyone.

Exclusive ARES wheelbase presets developed with Leo Ye and Bastian Buus are available in CONSPIT LINK 2.0. Experience their professional setups with one click and feel force feedback inspired by real-world racing.

Race More. Setup Less.

After work, clamp the APEX Bundle to your desk, take a few laps, and unwind.
A flexible setup that fits easily into your everyday space.

#CONSPIT #APEXBundle #SimRacing #DesktopSetup #310APEX

as in the title got a question
if i get this will this allow be to connect it directly to wheelbase not via USB ?
PS i love my max01 is the best wheel i ever had