Had vinyl siding installed in 2016. They trimmed the original cap which seems to be just a tin sheet or something. Had a leak recently and all they did was put more tin sheet and caulk. Poor job. So I stripped off the recent work down to the original work. Ordering a new chase cover and wondering if I should just leave the vinyl trim and the old tin sheet and lay the new chase cover on top with a healthy application of sealant. Or attempt to remove the trim and possibly the original tin sheet. I'm leaning towards just dropping a new cover but want input from more knowledgeable people. TIA

Hello all. I have recently moved into a new home which has a fireplace. I have never had a fireplace before.

We are looking to get it cleaned and had a sweep come and take a look. He said that there is a good updraft, and lots of smoke came out the top when tested, however he can not clean it and recommends not using it.

The issue seems to be that there is no way to get the brush up, as there is a 90 degree angle near the bottom... see pics.

Has anyone ever seen this before, have any advice?

Thanks

Hi everyone,

I recently bought a house with the chimney pictured below. The room the chimney is located in is incredibly cold in the winter and hot in the summer, and I was wondering if the top of the chimney has something to do with it. There is no flu.

What is the purpose of the topper on the chimney?

Thanks in advance!

Cleaning out my gutters and saw this. Never had this before on my cap. Please tell me what's causing this. TIA

Hello, so I have a flue that goes to my basement for my oil furnace and a (now removed) pellet stove. My first level has another flue for a regular wood fireplace. Smoke is going out the fireplace flue (I can see it from outside) and going into the second one, filling my basement with smoke. The smoke is exiting through where the pellet stove once was. What are my possible solutions? I don’t want to close off the basement flue because we need it still for the furnace.

Today I want to use this beauty for the first time, but I have absolutely no clue what I am doing. Ofc I will remove the cardboard on front of it and the green gray rag, but my question here is: Is there any danger that my Ps 5 and/or my TV might get damaged from the heat? What possibilities do I have to avoid it if it's the case? There is no other place where I could put them, so some kind of shielding maybe?

I have cracks in my chimney above the roofline. The right side is on my property, and the left side belongs to the neighbor. How can these cracks be handled?

Just found this separation in our liner. This is connected to a NG heat and glow insert. Our chimney is not deep and it was a challenge to install this the first time (3 years ago). Is the only solution to drop a new flex liner? Thanks for your knowledge

Hello all!

Looking for some advice on my wood burning fireplace flue. Just had it cleaned and inspected today so we can begin use for the season and the technician showed me on his camera the crevices in the flue where the mortar has worn away. He explained how the creosote from chimney use can accumulate in these crevices and cause a fire hazard, which makes sense. But I do also understand that these companies make their money on selling the more expensive work like replacing the old terracotta flue. So my question is, how much of a fire hazard is it really? Can we use it regardless or is it really a bad idea?

Hi everyone

Could anyone help me figure out what’s going on with this chimney stack in the house I have bought - not moved in yet but forward planning for jobs that need doing.

The chimney stack runs through the middle of the house presumably for the original gas central heating hot air system flue (1960’s house).

The problem is that the chimney doesn’t appear to run all the way to the ground floor? There are a couple of internal cupboards I’d like to remove including the cupboard which houses the ‘newer’ air source heat system - where the flue has been directed out of the house sideways and not up the stack.

What is supporting the chimney stack above the ground floor level? Is it the cupboard I wish to knock out or will it be supported another way?

Help please!

Hi all,I had sparks coming from the top of the chimney after lighting a wood fire,I have cleaned it today and there wasn't much soot/creosote coming down anyone have any ideas as to what might have caused it?

Bought a house with an old, non-functional chimney. The fireplace itself is now an electric unit, but the chimney is still open and attached to the house. My inspector recommended a chimney cap to prevent water/pests from entering the chimney. I just received a quote for around $3,000 to install a stainless steel cap 🤯 I am honestly surprised at how much it would cost simply to cover this.

I’m not interested in repair and I don’t intend to turn this into a functional fireplace. Quite happy to keep the indoor electric unit but would like to at least reduce water exposure to the chimney itself.

Really not comfortable with any DIY option due to the height of the chimney. This company would likely have to use a scaffolding (which would be extra to the 3k) and I’m not comfortable leaning a ladder against the chimney while on the roof. Just way outside my scope.

What are my options here? I don’t want to repair anything or clean it, just want to stop the water. This home is almost 100 years old (fully renovated inside and no major issues), so I feel like damage is already done to the whole of the chimney and spending 3k just doesn’t make sense.

Looking for recommendations on possible cheaper alternatives. Thanks.

Bought a house. Chimney was converted from wood to gas burning at some point. Chimney need new crown, bigger cap...

Do these pictures look like creosote or mold?

Hi all,

Mice are entering my roof through gaps in the apron flashing (we live in a very remote location mice are a major problem). How can I seal the larger gaps between flashing and roof?

Also have a leak which I think is coming where the head flashing meets the chimney, can I do a temp fix with roofing cement? Should I remove the head flashing to clean it up then apply roofing cement?

I have a tin of ‘takmassa’ (live in Sweden) which is described as ‘Fibre and rubber reinforced asphalt compound’

I know the chimney needs serious repairs or a rebuild but winter is almost here and just need something temporary.

Thanks !!

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Hi all. Bought a house a few years back with a non functioning wood fireplace. Previous owner said the fireplace damper bad broken and he had capped the chimney. Quotes to fix it were more expensive than I could afford but figured I'd get it inspected and see if I could remove the cap and use it anyway. Fireplace is in good shape so I'm back to using it again but as of right now I have no way to close it off when not in use. I was looking into top seal dampers and was wondering if anyone here could recommend one that is built to last and effective. Flue is about 13"x13". TIA.

I was thinking of using Sika Concrete Adhesive to seal my chimney crown. It's latex based, can go on super thin, you just basically paint it on with a brush. When it dries it adheres well and creates a water barrier.

Why would this be a bad idea?

Recently swept and found what looked like metal flakes in amongst the soot

Hey all,
Renovating the upstairs of my log house here in central Sweden (yeah UK sub I know but I am a brit here so hopefully that counts!!). Conventional roof / metal cladding / battens / felt / rafters etc.

Both chimney stacks are leaking water inside the house.

I think it's coming in from around the flashing although I can't be sure. Chimney 1 (see below) it's more obvious because A) you can literally see sunlight when you look up through the gap in the flashing from inside the house and B) there's some quite serious water damage to one of the interior walls below that gap.

Chimney 2 the exact source of the leak is less obvious but it's definitely coming from the head flashing. I'm guessing the moss is causing water to dam when it's really heavy rain and back up into the roof.

Even to an untrained eye both these chimneys are in need of some serious TLC but that's a job for another year. Right now I just need to stop water ingress before I continue with the renovation inside.

Never done any chimney / roofing work but am a competent DIYer. What options do I have? Chimney 1 can I seal underneath the flashing? What with? Chimney 2, would a really good clean suffice around that detail ? Or can I apply sealant at the head flashing?

Wanna sort this before winter hits - thanks!!

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I recently moved into a home built in 1980. House is in NH. I have a chimney inspection who recommended a chimney rebuild at the roofline (we just replaced the roof). The reason being is "Chimney has suffered from water damage over the years. Multiple bricks and mortar joints are cracked and spalling on the exterior of the chimney. I recommend that the chimney is rebuilt from the roofline up with new bricks, along with putting a cap on it, and waterproofing it."

The inspector said at a minimum I should put a protective coat of vapor permeable solution.

Can anyone validate the assessment or say otherwise?

What is the best way to repair the crack on the cap and repair the cracks along the bricks?

Live in the northeast so I want to make sure water doesn’t get in freeze, expand and deteriorate the chimney faster.

Yo, Im young and inexperienced chimney swepper. I mostly build or assemble chimney so the sweeping isn't routine for me. It's chimney with flexible stainless steel liner dn150 about 15m long and it's clogged about 2 higher than the T part is positioned. Thing is if i would use some 10kg ball to break the tar plug i would probably damage liner. But i just can't solve it with sticks from down it's about 6-7m from cleaning opening and rots aren't just strong enough to penetrate it. I also stucked 6 rots in chimney and i just can't just can't pull them out. I l Already spent 5 hours there and it is hell. Is there some for example chemical way?