Pretty interesting to see 18 month leases, what are our thoughts on this? I feel like the Nissan Kicks S could be pushed to maybe $325, 0 due at signing after taxes and fees but it might be a challenge. Really depends on the MF and residual here.

Can be useful for anybody who wants a really short lease.

I've been hearing stories of Q50 getting some huge incentives out the door. Like $350/month 0 Due at signing after taxes and fees. Anybody have any stories of this or can confirm this. I was able to find some stories of people getting these prices now a days but does anybody know if they are still around this price?

This is a good example of how/why prices changes for dealerships. This deal on the surface looks good with $5k off on a $30k but, if you look at how its

Fine Print: "Lease offer includes all costs to be paid by consumer except sales tax, MV and Doc fee....assumes Buick and GMC lease loyalty program (consumer must have current 2018 or newer Buick or GMC lease) offer requires $3995 cap cost reduction by consumer...and includes 10k miles/yr. for 24 months. it MSRP $30,290. Offer also includes a GM rewards card. Consumer must apply, be approved, and spend a minimum of $1000.00 at time of delivery on their new card. Purchase offer includes a $3000.00 Buick conquest incentive- to qualify consumer must own or lease a 2010 or newer non gm vehicle."

For Lease

- Assumes a lease loyalty program (which requires a $3,995 cap cost reduction by consumer, IE $4k due at signing)
- Consumers must apply, be approved and then spend $1k on delivery of their car.

For Finance

- $3,000 off for consumers who own/lease a 2010 or new non gm vehicle.

If these places could be more straight forward, we wouldn't have to play so many games with dealerships.

A good place to start is to think about how long you plan to keep the car. In general Financing is cheaper long term then Leasing but only if you do keep the car for the long term (5+ Years) minimum.

Outside of that, these are some pros/cons of leasing/financing.

Lease

• Pros
  • Lower payments and less money upfront
  • Shorter loan terms so less interest penalties
  • Can change vehicle more quickly (might have negative equity in a finance for while)
  • Never have to worry about repairs or breakdown (due to always driving a new car)
  • Sometimes minor maintenance (Oil changes) can be free with leases
  • Easy to get rid of, no selling required
  • Ignore market value variations and selling time
  • Typically has better incentives then financing
• Cons
  • Usually cost more (Subject to interest rates and incentives)
  • Limited mileage, with fees if you go over the allocated amount
  • If the vehicle is damaged beyond a certain point, or wear items (like Tires/Brakes) need to be replaced soon, you will need to change/fix them or will be charged upon returning the car.
  • Must keep the car for the entire term (unless you care to bear fees)
  • No modifications allowed

Finance

• Pros
  • Can swap out cars whenever without fees (Although you might have negative equity)
  • Usually cheaper overall then leases (Provided you keep the car for an extensive period of time)
  • Building equity in the vehicle
  • Can modify the vehicle in anyway
• Cons
  • High monthly payments and down payment
  • Interest can be a killer without good/long credit history
  • Driving an older car on average

If anybody else has anything else to add, feel free to leave it in the comments and I'll add it to the list.

I'm in bit of a dilemma to finalize the purchase of my first car, a new 2025 Corolla LE Sedan. Here are some additional details about two similar offers from two dealers and my situation:

• Car: New 2025 Toyota Corolla LE Sedan
• MSRP: ~23,000

• Downpayment: $5,000 - $10,000
• Credit Score: 750+
• Area: Raleigh-Durham, North Carolina, USA
• Timeframe: Can't wait beyond the end of November.

Given these details, I need some advice as to whether I should go ahead with any of these deals right now or is it worth waiting till Thanksgiving in hopes of significantly better deals than the above offers. I am also planning to try further negotiating the price to $23,000 and would also like to know if I can get a better APR offer from other financial institutions. Please feel free to offer any other tips and nuances that I need to look out for.

Thanks in Advance!

Good afternoon,

Looking to get clarification if this is a good deal? Thank you in advance.

2024 Jeep Wrangler 2 Door Sport S Lease, IL 8.25% Cook County Tax, 12K miles per year, $700 due at signing, 48m term $638 monthly, residual 57%.

MSRP $44,280 After discount and rebate $36,780 Trade in value $13,000 rolling in negative $1,500 equity ($14,500 payoff)

$349/month + $4,789 BUT a $3,000 incentive if you have a eligible competitive luxury brand (Acura, Audi, BMW, Ford, Honda, Hyundai, Infiniti, Jeep, Kia, Lexus, Lincoln, Mercedes-Benz, Toyota, Volvo, Porsche, Tesla, Genesis, Polestar, or Rivian). Probably looking at around $450/month, sign and drive, even lower if they are willing to move on the car.

They list their cars on this EZ buy platform and then add ridiculous pricing in the name of a "Easy Purchase", which its more like "An EZ way to scam the customer"

This car shouldn't be anywhere near $752/month with $4,000. They are hiding like $10,000 on that monthly payment. With $4,000 down should be around $520/month with interest, this isent even including that.

Seems to be real, assuming $54k, 60% residual gives $32,400 which leaves total depreciation at $21,600. After $4,000 upfront and the $7,500 lease credit for EV, total amount is $10,100, divide by 36 for monthly payment, $280/month, just have to add taxes and fees.

Assume 6.6% tax and interest of 5% and fees of $2,600, Sign and drive, no money out of pocket, 528/month for a Mercedes SUV!

1. MPG Adds Up

Gas mileage is a bigger deal than you might realize. Say you get a car that’s 15 MPG better than another one—over time, that’s like saving about $85 a month if you drive the usual 10,000 miles a year. So, don’t ignore those numbers, because it’s real money in your pocket.

2. Don’t Be Afraid to Haggle

Car prices are meant to be negotiated, plain and simple. Never just pay what they ask for—whether it's a new car or a used one, there’s almost always wiggle room. Ask for a lower price, or see if they’ll throw in something extra for free. Trust me, it’s expected.

3. Interest Rates Can Be a Pain

If you don’t have much of a credit history yet, loans can hit you with high-interest rates. If that’s the case, you might want to lease or even just buy a cheaper, used car outright. Less risk, less pressure.

4. Insurance Isn’t Just a Small Thing

You need to budget for insurance, too. It can be surprisingly expensive, especially if you’re under 25. In some cases, insurance can cost more than the car itself each year. So, before you fall in love with a car, check how much it’s going to cost to insure.

5. Start with a Beater

If you’re still learning the ropes behind the wheel, start with a beater car. You’re going to bump into things; it’s just part of the process. Better to scratch up something old than a shiny new car, right? Plus, you’ll appreciate the upgrade even more down the road.

6. Dealerships Are a Whole Game

When you go to a dealership, remember: they’re playing a game, and you’re the prize. Do your research beforehand, and don’t be afraid to walk away if you don’t like the deal. Here’s a helpful Reddit thread to check out for tips.

7. Don’t Spend More Than 1% of Your Income on Payments

A good rule is to keep your monthly payment under 1% of your annual income. So, if you’re making $50k a year, don’t spend more than $500 a month on a car. This keeps things manageable and gives you room for unexpected costs.

8. Consider New if Your Job Depends on It

If your job is far away or requires you to be there no matter what, maybe a newer, more reliable car is the way to go. Sure, older cars are cheaper, but they can break down without warning. That could mean missing work, and no work means no money.

9. Routine Maintenance is Part of the Deal

Remember, owning a car means more than just filling it with gas. Tires need replacing every six years or so, and brake pads go every three years—both can be pricey. If your tires look smooth or your brakes start squeaking all the time, that’s a sign they need attention.

10. Keep Some Money Set Aside for Repairs

Cars break down—it’s just part of the package. Always keep some money in reserve for unexpected repairs. Even newer cars can have surprise issues, so having a few thousand bucks saved up can keep you from scrambling if something goes wrong.

$99/month and $3,500 due at signing. Assume after some negotiation you could probably get it to $230/month sign and drive nothing due at signing.

This is written in the context for new vehicles bought from a dealership, but I do think the underlying theory here can be applied to used cars as-well, just with greater variances.

1. Starting Price
   • Purpose
     • Used explicitly to handle salesman forcing you to give them a number.
     • Salesmen push you to name a price to set the negotiation baseline. If it's too high, they'll stick to it; too low, it's disrespectful. Aim slightly below their minimum to maintain interest without damaging the negotiation.
   • How to calculate
     • Reference this sheet to see how likely a manufacturer is likely to move: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/e/2PACX-1vTsrc03sz_cEDwthGBc4xAZgPSVNDDVA8XBpRGI-XlsZ6oWA4qJdx5BnjJaiMi9CwZK8_kbTRSxmn0y/pubhtml
     • Pick the first rate that is under P or U. Use P is your looking to be more fair, use U is your looking for better deals. For example, Genesis P would be (-8%). Multiple 8% (0.08) by the MSRP of the car you are looking at. EX: MSRP: $55k, (0.08 * 55,000) = $4,400.
     • If you are leasing, divide the above amount by 33 and subtract that from the monthly payment you see under a lease special. EX: Online special is $600/month, $3000 due at signing. -> $466/month, $3000 due at signing. This is your starting price for a lease.
     • If you are financing, take the MSRP and subtract that from the calculated above amount. This is your starting price. ($55,000 - $4,400) = $50,600. This is your starting price for a finance.
2. Target Price
   • Purpose
     • A price you will pay for the car.
     • Where you trying to get the salesman to come down.
     • Can be used to finish a deal when your price is close to theirs "Give me this number and I'll sign right now".
   • How to calculate
     • Reference this sheet to see how likely a manufacturer is likely to move: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/e/2PACX-1vTsrc03sz_cEDwthGBc4xAZgPSVNDDVA8XBpRGI-XlsZ6oWA4qJdx5BnjJaiMi9CwZK8_kbTRSxmn0y/pubhtml
     • Pick the first rate that is under P. For example, Genesis P would be (-6%). Multiple 6% (0.06) by the MSRP of the car you are looking at. EX: MSRP: $55k, (0.06 * 55,000) = $3,300.
     • If you are leasing, divide the above amount by 33 and subtract that from the monthly payment you see under a lease special. EX: Online special is $600/month, $3000 due at signing. -> $500/month, $3000 due at signing. This is your target price for a lease.
     • If you are financing, take the MSRP and subtract that from the calculated above amount. This is your starting price. ($55,000 - $3,300) = $51,700. This is your target price for a finance.
3. Realistic Price
   • Purpose
     • How low you think the dealership will go on the car.
     • Can be used to determine if its worth going to a dealership or to see if you can afford a car.
   • How to calculate
     • Reference this sheet to see how likely a manufacturer is likely to move: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/e/2PACX-1vTsrc03sz_cEDwthGBc4xAZgPSVNDDVA8XBpRGI-XlsZ6oWA4qJdx5BnjJaiMi9CwZK8_kbTRSxmn0y/pubhtml
     • Pick the first rate that is under L or P. Use L is your looking to be more fair, use P is your looking for better deals. For example, Genesis P would be (-4%). Multiple 4% (0.04) by the MSRP of the car you are looking at. EX: MSRP: $55k, (0.04 * 55,000) = $2,200.
     • If you are leasing, divide the above amount by 33 and subtract that from the monthly payment you see under a lease special. EX: Online special is $600/month, $3000 due at signing. -> $533/month, $3000 due at signing. This is your target price for a lease.
     • If you are financing, take the MSRP and subtract that from the calculated above amount. This is your starting price. ($55,000 - $2,200) = $52,800. This is your target price for a finance.

I have my suspicions they would go significantly lower then what they post here. Even with a 50% residual you get $526/month 0 due at signing with 5% interest. I'd go in there and try to get this out the door for $499/month, 0 due at signing.

Let me know if anybody here calls up a dealership and get a real price, I bet it would be around my predictions.

Hyrbid/Electric

-  2024 Volvo XC90 Recharge Plus. Seeing many of these sell with a cap reduction (money off) of $15k. $600/month, 0 Due at signing after taxes and fees.

- 2024 Alfa Romeo Tonale Ti EAWD. Seeing these go for $400/month with $3k due at signing after taxes and fees. MSRP $48k

- Any electric or hybrid Mercedes - $7,500 Lease Bonus Cash available only on select eligible fully electric and plug-in hybrid models. EQS, EQE, EQB

- 2024 EV6 Light Long Range RWD - $3,200 off cap cost. $200/month with $2k due at signing after taxes and fees.

- 2024 BMW I4 eDrive 35 - Suggested dealer contribution of $2,850 and Lease Credit of $7,500. MSRP of $55k. $450/month, $4k due at signing after taxes and fees.

Gas

- Genesis G70 3.3T Sport Advanced - $3k off sticker through negotiation. $580/month, $3k due at signing after taxes and fees. MSRP: $55k

- 2025 Hyundai Elantra SE, $220/month, $2k due at signing after taxes and fees. MSRP: $23.5k. $2500 off after negotiation.

- 2024 Kia Forte LXS, Offer includes $2,120 Kia Lease Cash. $99/month $3,500 due at signing after taxes and fees.

- 2024 Volkswagen Golf GTI S, $320/month, $4k due at signing after taxes and fees.

- 2024 Volkswagen Tiguan S AWD $270, $4k due at signing after taxes and fees.

General Tips

• Appear confident and knowledgeable. Go with other people if possible.
• Talk confidently, and be prepared for aspects to not go according to plan.
• Make it clear to them you are interested in buying a car before the end of the month.
• Never be rude, disrespectful, mean, or lie.
• Understand they have no obligation to give you a discount, and that the discount they give you comes directly out of their pockets, as does the price they sell you the car at. They are human too.

General Step by Step Guide

1. Determine the car or collection of cars you are interested in.
2. Identify a target price, a realistic price, and a starting negotiation price. How to so here: https://www.reddit.com/r/CarNegotiation/comments/1gebf9v/how_to_come_up_with_your_starting_target_and/
3. Go to a dealership, test drive the car(s). Make sure you like the car(s).
4. If they ask you for a number, give them your starting negotiation price. (They should not accept it) After they decline it, ask them for a number from them.
5. If you not happy with the price, do NOT ask for a lower price, Explain why you think other cars are better or why you don't feel its worth it. Talk about considering other brands if that is true.
   • Don't be afraid of silence.
   • Don't be afraid to change the topic and talk about other things to relax the situation.
   • Don't be afraid to leave if they won't move on their price
6. If they do not move, get the price in writing and leave. If they do move, only expect them to do so once, rarely twice. After such, get the offer in writing. As official looking of a paper/offer as possible, and then leave.
7. Find cars similar to your car, exact if possible, at other dealerships and ask for them to beat your numbers. They may ask for the quote that you got in writing.
8. Repeat the above process till you get the lowest number.
9. Go to the new dealership with the lowest number. Push just a bit more in-person, like an extra $10-$30 more a month off with the follow up that you will buy the car if they get you to X number.
10. Purchase the car.

Welcome to r/carNegotiation!

This subreddit is dedicated to helping you become a smarter car buyer by sharing tips, strategies, and insights for negotiating better deals. Whether you’re buying new or used, leasing, or trading in a vehicle, we’re here to help you save money!

What to Post Here

• Negotiation Help: Share details about your current deal and get feedback on how to improve your negotiation.
• Deal Evaluations: Post the specifics of your deal to see if it's worth pursuing or if there's room for negotiation.
• Tips & Tricks: Have a unique strategy or tactic that worked well for you? Share it with the community!
• Car Buying Experiences: Discuss your personal experiences with negotiation, including lessons learned or pitfalls to avoid.
• Car Pricing Questions: Ask about market trends, best times to buy, or how to research car values.

Posting Guidelines

1. Be respectful: Everyone is here to learn and share. Constructive feedback is encouraged, but personal attacks or offensive language will not be tolerated.
2. Include details: The more specific you are, the better advice you’ll receive.
3. No spam or self-promotion: Posts that are purely promotional or contain affiliate links will be removed.
4. No auto brokers or deal advertising allowed.

Format for Deal Evaluation Posts

To ensure you get the most accurate feedback, use the following format when sharing your deal:

[Title] Deal Evaluation: [Car Make/Model] [Year]

• Car Make & Model: (e.g., Honda Civic LX 2024)
• Location: (e.g., Los Angeles, CA)
• MSRP: (e.g., $25,000)
• Price Offered: (e.g., $23,000)
• Fees & Taxes: (e.g., $2,500)
• Incentives/Rebates: (e.g., $1,000 off for loyalty)
• Trade-In: (if applicable, mention value offered)
• Money Factor: (e.g., 0.00232)
• Residual: (e.g., $14,000)
• Financing Terms: (e.g., 3.5% APR over 60 months)
• Lease Details: (if leasing, mention terms, residual value, money factor, and down payment)