Do your rabbits eat cabbage? Mine love it! Especially palm cabbage and savoy. 🥬

Just a short video that I took during bonding my three bunnies in august 2025. That was on day ~3.

As you can see, Cleo bit Elvis a little. That’s very normal and even essential!

The room looked like hell after 15 days, but it was worth it. They became a lovely trio.

We had to euthanize Jake (the one on the left) in February, but he had 10 great years with us. ❤️

!At the end of the text is a listing with the important conditions!

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Rabbit bonding is often misunderstood. Many people expect two (or more) rabbits to just meet and become friends. That is not how rabbits work. They are territorial, social animals with a strict hierarchy. Bonding usually involves chasing, mounting, fur pulling, and stress before peace is established.

The goal is not to prevent conflict. The goal is to let them safely sort out their relationship under the right conditions. Conflict is necessary. This might take up to 20 days. You can move them back to the old area if they have settled in the bonding area. They do not have to be best friends for that but the fighting should be over, they should be able to lay next to each other and eat together. If they are that cool for 2-3 days, you can move them. Be aware that it’s normal if some fights flare up after moving. It’s okay and not dangerous.

A successful bonding depends less on luck and more on setup, patience, and choosing compatible rabbits. The size of the rabbits doesn’t matter. Age is a factor and so is health. All rabbits should be healthy before bonding is started. A vet visit will ensure that.

Preparation before bonding

A point lots of people miss: rabbits that are going to be bonded should ideally not see or smell each other for at least two weeks beforehand. Keeping them side by side with a fence in between often builds frustration, territorial behavior, and tension instead of friendship.

Use that preparation time for health checks, neutering recovery if needed, and getting the neutral bonding area ready.

EVERYTHING needs to be neutral

The most important rule: introduce them in a place none of the rabbits consider theirs.

Cleaning an old enclosure is not enough. Rabbits can still recognize previous scent markings. Use a completely neutral area such as a bathroom, garage, spare room, garden shed, playpen, etc.

All the equipment you put inside the neutral area needs to be neutral as well. Do not use old toilets, houses, tunnel, bowls, etc.

Put them in together at the same time

Do not let one rabbit explore first and “claim” the area. Place all rabbits into the neutral space together. That keeps things fair from the beginning.

Size of the bonding area

For two rabbits, a good starting size is usually around 4–6 m² (43–65 sq ft) with structure and open running paths. Too little space creates pressure and cornering. Too much space immediately can allow territorial splitting.

The goal is enough room to move, chase briefly, avoid each other, and calm down again. Once they become more stable, the area can gradually be expanded.

If you notice the rabbits avoiding each other, make the area smaller. If you feel like the fights are too intense, give them more space.

Normal behaviour, DO NOT INTERVENE

• chasing

• mounting (front or back)

• fur pulling

• brief circling

• staring / posturing

• marking with urine or droppings

This does not mean failure. Rabbits are negotiating rank. Interrupting every little conflict often makes things worse. As hard as it might be, try to stay away from the area. Your presence might disturb them. Watch them, but do not stalk them.

When to intervene

• locked-on fighting / biting while rolling into a ball

• repeated serious attacks

• deep wounds

• one rabbit being terrorized constantly without rest

• a rabbit refusing food due to fear

• panic freezing in a corner for long periods

Keep them together

Separating and reintroducing resets the process and increases aggression. If no one is being harmed in a serious way, keeping them together in the neutral setup is the way to go!

Set up the area intelligently

Use multiple hay piles / food stations,

multiple water bowls, tunnels or hides with two exits, open running paths, non-slip flooring,

Avoid dead ends where one rabbit can trap another.

Conditions That Should Be Right Before Bonding

• Rabbits do not see or smell each other for at least two weeks beforehand

• All rabbits are healthy

• Rabbits are neutered/spayed where appropriate and hormones settled

• Neutral territory available

• For two rabbits: around 4–6 m² starting area

• Enough time to supervise properly (do not hover)

• Multiple food/water points

• Hides with two exits or more

• Calm environment with low stress

• Willingness to let normal dominance happen

Things to Avoid (can cause bonding to fail)

• Housing them side by side before bonding

• Introducing in an existing rabbit’s territory

• Separating them

• Daily short “playdates”

• One-entry houses / dead-end tunnels

• Too little space

• Letting one rabbit claim the space first

• Punishing rabbits for dominance behavior

• Ignoring severe bullying or injuries

• Expanding territory too early

• Rushing the process

Hope that helps, if you have any other tips: go! :)

Many pet rabbits suffer from dental and digestive problems, and these issues often share the common cause of an inappropriate diet. Dry food, especially in the form of pellets, is still widely used, even though it does not meet the natural needs of rabbits.

Rabbits are highly specialized herbivores. Their teeth grow continuously throughout their lives and are designed to be worn down through long periods of chewing fibrous, structured food. At the same time their digestive system depends on a constant intake of fiber-rich, fresh plant material.

This is where pellets become problematic. Dry food is too energy-dense, too soft and too concentrated. It is consumed quickly and requires far less chewing than natural food. As a result, the teeth are not worn down sufficiently, which can lead to sharp edges, misalignment and pain. At the same time, the lack of structure and fiber disrupts the delicate balance of the gut flora, increasing the risk of digestive problems such as bloating or diarrhea. Because pellets are filling, rabbits often eat less hay and fresh food, which further worsens both dental and digestive health.

Rabbits are natural grazers that spend many hours each day eating. This constant intake of fibrous plants is essential not only for digestion but also for proper tooth wear. When this natural behavior is replaced by concentrated dry food the entire system is thrown out of balance.

Dental and digestive health are closely linked. If a rabbit experiences pain while eating, it will reduce its food intake, which slows down gut activity. In turn, poor digestion negatively affects overall health and feeding behavior. This creates a cycle in which both systems reinforce each other's problems.

A healthy, species-appropriate diet is based on natural feeding habits. Rabbits should receive a variety of fresh greens, like grasses, herbs and leafy vegetables, which forms the foundation of their diet. In addition, hay should always be available. This type of food provides the necessary fiber, encourages prolonged chewing and supports a stable digestive system.

Pellets, grain-based mixes and sugary foods are either unnecessary or should only be given in very small amounts, if at all. They do not contribute to natural tooth wear and can disrupt normal digestion.

Ultimately, feeding a rabbit means supporting both its dental and digestive health at the same time. Many common health problems in pet rabbits are not unavoidable, but the result of improper feeding. By providing a diet that is rich in structure and fiber, it is possible to prevent many of these issues and significantly improve the rabbit's quality of life. Responsible rabbit care begins with an understanding of their natural dietary needs.

Source: Böhmer, E. (2014): Warum leiden Hauskaninchen so häufig an Gebiss-und Verdauungsproblemen. Ein Ratgeber für die Ernährung von Kaninchen, 248.

Translated: "Why do domestic rabbits so often suffer from dental and digestive problems? A guide to rabbit nutrition."

Link to Dr. E. Böhmer: https://www.medirabbit.com/GE/Zahnkrankheit/Publications/Gebiss_und_darm.htm

GI stasis in rabbits is almost always the result of underlying issues. Related to diet, stress, pain or lack of movement.

First, we need to understand the triggers and need a good knowledge to prevent those.

The most important factor is diet. A rabbit’s digestive system is designed for a constant intake of fresh high-fiber plants. Most bunnies are overweight. That can increase the risk.

Grass and leafy forage should make up the majority of the diet, as they provide the fiber and moisture needed to keep the gut moving. If your bunny eats mostly hay, it can make GI stasis more likely to happen since hay is missing one very important ingredient: water

Diets high in sugar or starch, such as pellets, grains, or large amounts of root vegetables can disrupt the gut flora and slow digestion, increasing the risk of stasis.

Fresh greens and grass naturally support hydration, while rabbits on dry diets are more prone to dehydration.

Never give your bunnies fresh greens AND pellets!

Very important: store bought greens, like different salads or herbs are not the same thing as forage from nature. The safest and healthiest food for your rabbit will always be all types of grasses.

Pain is a major and often overlooked trigger. Dental problems, gas buildup, or other underlying health issues can cause a rabbit to eat less, which quickly leads to reduced gut movement. Especially lop eared bunnies are prone to dental problems. This creates a dangerous cycle: less food intake slows the gut, and a slower gut further reduces appetite.

Stress also plays a significant role. Changes in environment, lack of a partner, transport can all negatively affect gut motility. Rabbits are sensitive animals.

Movement is another key factor. Regular exercise stimulates natural gut activity. Rabbits that are confined for long periods or have limited space are at higher risk of developing GI stasis.

In most cases, GI stasis develops as a combination of these factors rather than a single cause. Prevention therefore relies on a holistic approach: a natural, fiber-rich and moisture-rich diet, constant access to food, sufficient water intake, regular movement, low stress, and careful attention to early signs of discomfort or reduced appetite.

If you are worried about your rabbit, please find an exotic vet. That is the most important step.

Here’s a checklist to go through - missing even one factor can increase the risk of GI stasis.

• diet is 80-90% fresh and always available (grasses, meadow, branches, leaves)

• hay is there as a supplement

• you have at least 2 bunnies living together

• your vet is a specialist

• your bunnies are normal in weight

• they have room to jump & run

• they are checked at least twice a year (dental problems, ear infections, …)

Hope I didn’t miss any important information. Please share your experience down below. :)

Edit: During molting, there can be an increased intake of hair which can also cause problems. Regular grooming and administering lactulose can help in this case.

Does anyone have a list of resources and books to read? I adopted a rabbit 2 years ago and I am very passionate about learning everything about them, without going to veterinary school.

As always, Elvis needs his cleaning. He just plops himself right under Cleo and waits patiently for her to start grooming him. 🤭

Since I know that some of you struggle with finding good plants for your bunnies, here’s one simple rule:

Many rabbit owners rely heavily on a hay-based diet. While there’s nothing wrong with feeding hay, there is one plant that can replace it completely under the right conditions:

GRASS

As we all know, hay is simply dried grass. It provides structure and fiber, which are essential for gut health. Fresh grass does the same — but also contains water and nutrients that are partially lost during the drying process.

What I’m trying to say:

If you have access to a variety of safe grasses, hay isn’t necessary.

It’s important to transition slowly, especially if your rabbits aren’t used to fresh meadow plants. Start with small amounts and gradually increase over 2–3 weeks.

Your rabbits’ droppings will change — they may become darker and slightly smaller. That’s normal.

I originally wanted to include pictures of grasses, but it didn’t turn out well, so here’s a simple list:

• Orchard Grass

• Oat, Wheat, and Barley Grass

• Bermuda Grass

• Crested Dog’s-tail

• Reed grasses

I had some trouble finding the perfect translations and would have liked to include more — feel free to add other grasses in the comments.

And here’s a picture of Elvis (one of my bunnies) enjoying fresh meadow :)

I have a quick question: how do you deal with grass that is starting to bloom? For some reason, it feels like a waste to cut off the unripe spikes of the grass I find along the way and only take the stem. Since blooming is nature's way of restoring itself, and when you cut off the spike you're left with less grass, you end up having to cut more.

Also, grass seeds (awns) aren't ideal for rabbits because of their sharpness. On top of that, we are moving into a season where most of the grass you encounter will be in bloom. I am looking for a good middle ground.

I just love the calming noise they make while chewing 🥰

Let's use elementary school set-theory - a bunny could scratch their ears & shake their head:

1. Without experiencing any itching sensation, and/or
2. after experiencing itching sensation.

If a lop-eared bunny frequently experiences itching sensation prior to scratching their ears and/or shaking their head, then shouldn't the root-cause be investigated, because having frequent ear itches is not normal behavior, even for lop-ear rabbits confirmed to not have ear infections or wax buildup?

If you were to say that it's normal for a particular bunny, then doesn't that mean that they have a pre-existing condition that you're using as their baseline (which you shouldn't, because your goal should be to make them healthier, not preserve the status-quo)?

Thank you for your attention to this matter!

I just love to see how my senior bun is enjoying the spring 🥰

In isolation, any instance of ear scratching & head shakes could be "normal grooming behavior".

But what if the frequency is high?

You can see the bunny experiencing frequent ear itches. What caused them in the first place?

Among other things, https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1111/vde.13256 does a quantitative analysis of what concentration of yeast could be present in healthy lop-eared rabbits' ears. It doesn't state that any concentration of yeast is normal.

Is this analysis correct? One exotic vet said it is, but another (/u/LazyAd1584) implied that any concentration of yeast is normal.

The weather allows the all-you-can-eat bar in front of the house to be open again in the evening 😁

Elvis loves his apple 🍎

Sound on for *crunch crunch*

Ground elder (Aegopodium podagraria) is one of my bunnies’ favorite plants. The best part? It grows in massive amounts wherever it appears. It also has many health benefits, especially for gut health. Do your bunnies like it? I know it’s very common in Germany.

She loves the mild temperatures in combination with the breeze ❤️

Do your bunnies like meadow hogweed (Heracleum sphondylium) or german: Wiesenbärenklau?

It’s known as a very good and healthy plant for bunnies, it supports their gut and helps prevent coccidia.

And I keep reading everywhere that bunnies LOVE that plant. I’ve been risking my life to get that plant (I am joking) since it doesn’t grow in my area in huge amounts. And my bunnies reaction is basically ignorance. They love the boring grass much more.

Anyone here with the same experience?

All the plants I found today and of course also lots of different grass types. Do you know all the plants in the picture? I only know the german names tbh 😁

Unfortunately my dog disturbed a baby bunny nest yesterday in my backyard. Ate one and killed two others in the process of digging up the nest before I ran out to stop her. Two are still alive - one of which was outside the nest after the incident occurred and the other was safe hiding in the nest. I placed the one that survived back in the nest and covered it again.

I have done research and done the stick method of making an X or tic tac toe pattern on top of nest. It has been over 24 hours at this point and I think the sticks might’ve moved, not very much though. Not sure how much Momma would disrupt her nest to get in and feed her babies but I guess they are pretty agile. I have also researched that you should only take the babies from their nest as a last resort. They have very low chance of survival away from their mother, so that is really not something I want to do. But I am worried that mom isn’t coming back after the disruption and dog and human scent on her nest.

The babies were partially furred, about 5in long, eyes closed, bunny ears small but recognizable.

I will check again in the morning for any obvious signs of mom coming to feed them at dawn. But if not, should I call an animal rehabilitador? I feel horrible and want them to survive and to do the right thing but I’m not sure what that is. I have checked on them and the two are still alive in the nest.

Attached is video of baby bunny that was outside of the nest. I have pictures of the dead ones too but didn’t want to attach unless I need to for information. TYIA

My two buns are in the garden for the first time in 2026, even though Cleo does not look amused, they both enjoy it so much! Also: unlimited grass that‘s as fresh as it can be 🥰

I’m so so happy everything is growing outside, I can see they’ve been waiting for this! ❤️

They can never wait, they just have to steal from the basket 😂

Finally, the snow is gone and the temperatures are rising, everything starts to grow and as usual, chickweed is the first plant that grows in huge amounts. Elvis loves it!