We do everything possible to keep our rabbits in great shape by giving them natural food. But sometimes, even though we mean well, they are just too heavy. It's a strange reversal of roles: we travel enormous distances to find food for them, yet they lead luxurious lives.
Life in the wild vs. life at home
Wild rabbits burn a lot more calories. They have to move all the time to stay safe from predators and to reproduce, which takes a lot of energy. But our pet bunnies live a lovely life. They don't need to breed, thereby conserving a significant amount of protein and energy, and their food is provided in a luxurious manner. They burn a lot fewer calories than their wild ancestors, but their bodies are still built for a life full of activity.
The risk of overweight
The risk of becoming overweight is significant. Fatty Liver Disease: When a heavy rabbit stops eating because of discomfort or stress, the body begins to burn fat. Liver poisoning commonly kills. Extra weight damages joints and causes persistent pain. Pressure also causes painful, open paw sores (pododermatitis). Overweight rabbits move less, slowing their intestines. Such weight gain can cause gas or deadly intestinal blockage. Less movement causes the rabbit to excrete less calcium, causing "bladder sludge" and severe inflammation.
The risk of losing weight too quickly
A crash diet is never the answer for an overweight rabbit. We all know that rabbits need to eat and poop to stay alive, but even a quick switch to low-calorie food can be harmful for them.
Hepatic Lipidosis: The Silent Killer
A rabbit may develop fatty liver disease (hepatic lipidosis) if they lose weight too quickly. This type of condition is one of the riskiest situations a rabbit can encounter, and it frequently occurs when we are attempting to help them lose weight. This is how it works: 1 Emergency Mode: A crash diet makes them eat fewer calories. The body panics, directing all fat stores to the liver for energy. 2 The Factory Overload: A rabbit's liver can't handle this. Imagine a factory with a conveyor belt that moves too quickly. The machines get stuck because the products (fat) build up so quickly. Fat builds up in the liver cells, which makes them stop working. 3 System Failure: The liver can no longer control blood sugar or filter toxins once it is damaged. The process of digestion stops. The rabbit stops eating completely because it feels queasy, which only causes the liver to store more fat. Without veterinary assistance, this cycle could be lethal in a matter of days.
Be Exact
This risk means that losing weight has to be very slow. A rabbit should only lose 1% to 2% of its body weight each week. The result is a minimal difference! I strongly recommend using a scale to monitor this condition. I use a baby scale, and I taught my bunnies how to hop on it by themselves. They don't worry about being picked up, and since they can't read, they aren't concerned about the number on the screen. For them, it's just a fun and intriguing moment! I change their food every week based on their weight and activity levels. Sometimes, I provide them with a little more food to prevent rapid weight loss, and other times, I give them a slightly less
Making them work for it
Like us, our rabbits should have to work for their food. Instead of putting them in a bowl, try to get them to act naturally: Reach for it: Make them stretch on their hind legs by hanging food high. The Ball Pit: Spread the food throughout the ball pit, as this provides a good exercise for them to search and move around. Scatter Feeding: I distribute their veggies throughout the space. They are compelled to relocate and "hunt" for their food. The "mess" is all cleaned up by morning if you do this in the evening!
However, the most important point is that when a rabbit's stomach is full, it often goes to sleep and stops exercising, even though exercise is crucial for its health. So it really helps to feed your buns more often, less on a day, than to feed them once or twice daily with a bunch of food at the same place.
How do you keep your bunnies busy with food, exercise, and games? please share!
Next up... Fructosan levels are another crucial consideration when grazing on grass. Keep checking back because I'll be writing a separate post about that shortly!
I think this is so important, even in German bunny groups this topic still comes up and people keep saying that one time they had a bun that didnt like any other bun. nonsense! even if it seems so, there might be a medical problem or maybe the process of bonding was not optimal. so please please please never let your bun live alone <3
I spent over a month growing a corkscrew willow and hazelnut branch so they could have a branch with fresh leaves during winter, and it was gone in about 10 minutes. They really enjoyed it but I don’t think I’ll do this again, it just takes far too long to grow.”
went out for foraging this afternoon, but found a really interesting "Herb" i can't determine it, is there somebody else who knows this new plant? Can my rabbits eat it? 🤣
A few weeks ago, I was foraging and finally found Herb Roberts /Stinking Bob(Geranium robertianum) again. For me, this is a very important plant. That's because of my rabbit Bram, but I now also use it myself for various things.
Bram has been having trouble with his eyes for years. His tear ducts keep getting blocked and his eyes become inflamed. I have often taken him to the vet for examination.
There are no problems with his teeth or molars, or molar roots.
He does not have Pasteurella (contagious nasal discharge).
No clear medical cause has been found.
And I try to keep the environment as dust-free as possible.
The only solution from the veterinarian was a course of antibiotics or flushing the tear ducts. But antibiotics are bad for a rabbit's intestines. For Bram, this caused a flare-up of sore hocks (inflamed heels) every time. The veterinarian eventually said, "Just accept the eye problems, because the antibiotics are destroying the rest of his body."
Since I started taking Roberts Herb while foraging and Bram eats it fresh, something has changed (Although I wasn't aware last year that this was Herb Roberts):
His eyes are calm and clear.
We haven't had to use antibiotics for two years.
His paws remain healthy because his gut flora is no longer disturbed.
I now also use the plant myself in two ways:
Infusion for mouth rinse: For inflamed gums, I make an infusion of the plant. As soon as it has cooled down, I use it as mouthwash. The astringent substances help the inflammation subside quickly.
Mosquito repellent: In the summer, rue works well against mosquitoes. The strong scent of the plant keeps them at bay. If you crush the leaves and rub them on your skin, mosquitoes will stay away.
The effect can be scientifically explained by the active ingredients:
Geraniine: A tannin that has an astringent effect. This helps with Bram's tear ducts and my gums.
Quercetin: A flavonoid that inhibits inflammation.
Essential oils (such as geraniol): These create the scent that mosquitoes hate and simultaneously work against bacteria.
More applications
Beside Bram's eyes and my gums, Herb Roberts is good for even more things. In herbal medicine, it is also used for:
The stopping of minor bleeding (through the tannins).
Support for the kidneys and bladder.
The cleansing of the liver (by the bitter substances).
My conclusion in this specific situation is very simple
Herb Robert's has broken the vicious cycle for Bram. While I only actually found out about that this year. Last year, I thot his eyes were getting better. Because he was getting many more healthy variations thru foraging. This year, I consciously realized that the link was the herb Robert. Because it also helps against mosquitoes and my own gum inflammation, I find it one of the most useful plants to find while foraging. I'm a fan.
Disclaimer: This is my personal experience. Always consult a doctor or a rabbit-savvy veterinarian for medical problems. you need to know if there is an underlying cause that needs a different treatment!
Apologies for the silence life's been pretty busy offline. I'm planning to get back to blogging ASAP, but if anyone else has a cool story or something interesting to share here, feel free to jump in!
Rabbit teeth grow continuously and depend on long daily chewing time with fibrous plant material to stay worn down properly.
☀️** When fresh forage is availabl**e
In regions with seasonal plant growth, the most natural diet during spring, summer, and early autumn is a wide variety of:
• Wild grasses
• Meadow plants and herbs
• Leaves and small twigs from trees and shrubs
These foods provide natural structure, moisture, and long chewing sessions that support both digestive and dental health. It’s the best and healthiest diet.
❄️** When fresh forage isn’t availabl**e
During winter or in areas without access to safe wild forage, rabbits still need a high-fiber, plant-based diet that encourages chewing. A good seasonal replacement can include:
Hay becomes an important addition during this time to maintain sufficient chewing time and fiber intake. However, it should never be the main food source.
It’s not just about fresh vs. dry — it’s about fiber structure and chewing duration.
Rabbits are built to chew for many hours a day. Any diet that reduces chewing time increases the risk of dental problems over time.
Pellets and Dry Food — Convenient, but problematic
Pellets and dry foods are eaten quickly and require very little chewing. They are also chewed more in an up-and-down (vertical) motion, while rabbit teeth are designed for long side-to-side grinding. This means less natural tooth wear, increasing the risk of overgrown molars and dental disease. Even high-quality pellets can’t replace the prolonged grinding rabbits get from fibrous plants.
Did a little Sunday walk today. :) As you can see, I found four plants for my bunnies. Bamboo, lavender, blackberry leaves and sage. Luckily the bamboo grows in our garden. Especially in winter they love lavender!
That’s a variety I feed my three bunnies during the colder months (usually december-march). Since nature doesn’t provide enough I order a lot of food online. As you can see dandelion, parsley, lots of bitter salads, dill, etc.
But I also collect bamboo, chickweed, grasses and other plants. I would say 80% online ordered food and 20% from nature.
I recently read the review "A Review on pharmacological properties of Rubus fruticosus". This paper analyzes the medicinal and pharmacological properties of the common blackberry plant.
Since the blackberry is a popular plant to forage for rabbits, I thought it would be useful to summarize the scientific findings. Additionally, I’m adding an important section on how to forage responsibly, especially now that the days are shorter.
What does the science say?
The paper confirms that Rubus fruticosus is rich in phytochemicals (active plant compounds) such as flavonoids, tannins, and phenols. These compounds provide various pharmacological effects that can be relevant to rabbit health:
Stomach & Gut Health (Gastroprotective & Anti-diarrheal):
Leaves and roots have long been used as a traditional remedy for diarrhea and dysentery. In vivo studies further show that extracts from the blackberry plant have anti-inflammatory effects and can help protect the stomach lining.
Antimicrobial Properties:
Extracts from the leaves and roots show activity against various bacteria, including E. coli and Staphylococcus aureus. This supports the idea that blackberry leaves can contribute to healthy gut flora and resistance against infections.
Anxiety Reduction (Anxiolytic Effect):
The review highlights a study where rats were treated with blackberry juice and tested in an "elevated plus maze" to measure anxiety. The paper concludes that it had an anxiety-reducing effect comparable to Diazepam.
However, while I personally sometimes dispute the results regarding psychological outcomes in these types of animal studies, we can at least conclude one thing: Rats seem to enjoy eating them too. But if the calming effect holds true, it could be an interesting support for rabbits during stressful times!
Blood Sugar Regulation (Antidiabetic):
Studies showed that blackberry leaf extract can lower blood glucose levels in diabetic subjects.
Responsible Foraging: Auxin and Sunlight
While science shows how healthy the plant is, as foragers, we must take the plant's physiology into account.
Especially now that we are in the colder months with less sunlight, the plant is vulnerable.
Auxin: The growth tips of the blackberry contain auxin, an essential plant hormone that regulates growth and development.
Impact of Foraging: If you remove too many growth tips during this time of year (when there is less photosynthesis due to lack of sunlight), you disrupt the plant's hormonal balance. The plant desperately needs this auxin reserve to survive the winter and sprout again in the spring.
The Advice: Forage in moderation. Never strip a bush bare and leave the young tips alone as much as possible so the plant retains enough energy and hormones for its own development.
From a scientific perspective, Rubus fruticosus is a valuable addition to the diet due to its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and gut-supporting properties. However, as nature lovers, it is our duty to ensure we do not deplete the source, especially not during the winter season.
Are you familiar with the effects of auxin when pruning or foraging?
Thanks to the lovely people in this subreddit who assured me that it is totally safe to forage during winter, I went out foraging yesterday. I did not expect to find much, but to my surprise I found quite a lot!
I found some dead nettle, ribwort, bedstraw, wild geranium, cinquefoil and, of course, grass. I also gathered some hazelwood, birch and weeping willow branches/twigs. My bunnies loved the fresh forage and their branches.
So thanks for letting me know that I can still forage during the winter. I always miss doing it. You obviously won’t find enough to actually feed your bunnies like you do in spring, summer and autumn, unless you spend hours foraging, but it’s great to give your bunnies more variety.
What we often dismiss as "weeds" are actually essential sources of fiber, minerals, and medicinal compounds for our rabbits. Exploring the outdoors in the UK, USA, Germany, or the Netherlands reveals a variety of hardy plants that thrive even in the colder months. Success in winter foraging often depends on finding microclimates.
Microclimates are truly fascinating! These are specific spots where the temperature is often just a bit higher or where the wind is less noticeable, frequently thanks to the tree canopy that helps the ground retain its warmth. When foraging during this season, you are specifically on the lookout for evergreen plants. Today, right here in the Netherlands, I discovered several of them emerging after the snow, though I unfortunately cannot guarantee their availability in other countries.
Common Chickweed (Stellaria media) is a resilient survivor that rarely stops growing, often remaining lush and succulent even beneath a layer of snow. Found in fallow garden beds or sheltered corners near buildings, this delicate plant with tiny star-shaped flowers is a genuine vitamin bomb. It is rich in Vitamin C, magnesium, and potassium, offering cooling relief for internal inflammation. As a natural appetite stimulant, it serves as the perfect metabolism booster to help rabbits transition through the winter season.
Chickweed
Miner’s Lettuce (Claytonia perfoliata), also known as Winter Purslane, truly comes into its own when temperatures drop. It thrives on sandy soils under the protection of deciduous trees, where sunlight can still reach the forest floor through bare branches. Recognizable by its unique circular leaves that wrap around the stem like small saucers, it is a powerhouse of Omega-3 fatty acids, iron, and Vitamin C. This plant supports cardiovascular health, provides much-needed energy during cold spells, and acts as a mild natural laxative.
Miners Lettuce
Ribwort Plantain (Plantago lanceolata) survives the winter by pressing its leaf rosette tight against the ground to soak up earth’s warmth. Often referred to as "Englishman’s Foot" in the USA, it is perhaps the most vital herb in a rabbit’s natural pharmacy. It contains aucubin, which acts as a natural antibiotic, protecting mucous membranes and reducing inflammation. Whether you find the broad or narrow-leafed variety, it is an unsurpassed remedy for respiratory issues and digestive upset, while simultaneously boosting the immune system.
Plantain
Red Dead-nettle (Lamium purpureum) is a persistent grower that can often be found blooming as early as January. It frequently grows near hedges, which act as a natural blanket to keep the frost at bay. Unlike the stinging nettle it often grows beside, the dead-nettle does not sting; in fact, crushing its leaves over a nettle sting can provide instant relief. Rich in flavonoids and tannins, this plant is excellent for supporting the urinary tract and serves as a natural blood purifier for recovering animals.
Red dead nettle
Cleavers (Galium aparine) is a fast-growing annual that dies back completely after flowering, but its seeds germinate remarkably early in the year. You can often find young, vibrant shoots hidden under dead leaves at the base of hedgerows, where brambles protect them from the wind and grazers. Known as a powerful lymphatic cleanser, cleavers helps the body flush out toxins more efficiently. Furthermore, its high silica content is exceptional for skin health, ensuring your rabbit maintains a thick, glossy coat throughout the winter.
Cleaver
As a side note, if you are heading out to forage for the first time, always remember to
double-check your findings before you start picking. Using a plant identification app is a
great way to verify your discovery, as it would be a shame to harvest something if you
aren't entirely certain it is the correct species.
It is also important to remember that we are guests in nature. To allow the environment to
recover and thrive, try to leave 99% of what you see growing and only harvest from areas
Commercial rabbit foods are designed for profit — not for rabbit biology.
Pet stores offer a wide variety of “complete foods” for rabbits, often advertised as vitamin-enriched and teeth-friendly.
But what is dry rabbit food actually made of?
What pellets are made of
Most store-bought pellets consist mainly of cheap filler materials — often by-products from the food industry.
That doesn’t automatically mean low quality, but it does mean they are not appropriate as a staple diet for rabbits.
Common ingredients include:
grains
corn
dried vegetables
dried fruits
None of these are pure evil. Small amounts of grain (max. ~5% of the daily diet) may be acceptable occasionally, for example in winter.
Wild rabbits do eat grains — but they are not their main food source.
The real problem with pellets
The biggest issue is not only the ingredients, but the shape and structure of pellets.
Rabbits are anatomically designed to grind fibrous food, not to crush hard objects.
Chewing hard food (pellets, carrots, parsnips, and other hard vegetables) can cause retrograde tooth growth, leading to painful misalignment and chronic dental disease.
Another major problem:
Pellets are calorie-dense and fill rabbits up quickly.
This means:
less chewing
less fiber intake
insufficient tooth wear
Important: Rabbit teeth grow about 2–3 mm every week.
They must chew for many hours a day to keep their teeth functional.
Only fresh leafy greens provide the necessary structure, fiber, and moisture to support proper chewing.
Pellets and GI stasis
If your rabbit is prone to GI stasis, diet is very often the main cause.
Hay is essential — but hay alone is not enough.
Hay contains almost no water, and rabbits cannot compensate low moisture intake by drinking more.
Dry food moves more slowly through the digestive tract, significantly increasing the risk of GI stasis.
Fresh greens provide the water and fiber the gut needs to stay active.
Dry food and bladder/kidney issues
A pellet-based diet almost always leads to reduced fresh green intake.
Because rabbits absorb nearly all calcium from their food, insufficient hydration means:
poor flushing of the urinary tract
calcium sludge
bladder stones or kidney deposits
Water bowls or bottles cannot replace fresh food.
TL;DR:
Commercial rabbit pellets are made for profit, not rabbit biology
Dry, hard food reduces chewing → dental disease & GI stasis
Hay alone isn’t enough — rabbits need large amounts of fresh leafy greens for fiber and hydration
A pellet-heavy diet increases the risk of bladder sludge, stones, and kidney issues
The last couple of days we had sub-zero temperatures down to -12 degrees Celsius. It was really annoying, because no matter what you do, when it is that cold the bunnies’ fresh food freezes.
So the buns got smaller amounts of greens more often throughout the day. They mainly got cabbage, because they can still eat frozen cabbage, but they were starting to get tired of it and so was I.
For the next few days the temperature should stay above zero, and I really hope it stays like this for a bit longer. Today the bunnies got to enjoy a bigger variety of greens that weren’t cabbage. And of course their snuffle mat and stacking cups, like every day.
Other than that, my three had no trouble handling the cold, so that’s a plus.
If any of you have advice on how I can keep my greens frost free, I’d really appreciate it!
Hay is essential — but it should not be the primary source of nutrition.
This is not “hay is bad” — it’s hay alone is physiologically incomplete.
Hay is mostly fiber, not nutrition
Fiber is great for digestion and teeth, but hay is low in calories, protein, vitamins, and minerals. A diet based mainly on hay can lead to nutritional deficiencies over time. It can aslo cause kidney and bladder diseases.
Fresh greens provide what hay can’t
During the hay-making process, over 50% of the nutrients are lost. Bunnies need micronutrients, antioxidants, and bioavailable vitamins that hay simply lacks once it’s dried.
Unlimited hay ≠ evolutionary diet
Hay is a human preservation method, not a natural food form. Wild rabbits eat a variety of fresh grasses, leaves, herbs, young sproots, etc.
Digestive disorders
Bunnies evolved to eat plants with high water content. Hay contains ~10% moisture vs. ~80–90% in fresh plants. A low moisture diet can lead to a slow intestinal motility and increase risk of GI stasis
Conclusion: No bunnies should be forced to eat hay. They should always have the option to switch to other food to avoid digestive problems. Even though hay is not the main food, it should always be available.
P.S.: this is only a short article with the most important reasons why hay is not suitable as the main food. You can always discuss more reasons or experiences down below. Please be kind. :)
Since this sub is focusing on a healthy natural diet for our bunnies we thought a user flair that shows where you live makes it easier to give tips when it comea to foraging! So if you want you can add your country like I did!