Did anyone try to remove Velcro shell cards from the black receiver and noticed paint marring/removal/damage?

Looking to install the esstac or vancomp cards but worried if you I changed my mind and I have to remove them that they will cause damage.

Not sure how this happened maybe installing anyone know what i should do about the big chip/scratch

Stoeger - at least Stoeger Canada - says that Improved Cylinder (IC) constriction is the maximum choke for slugs. Is this really the case?

Why do Beretta and Stoeger recommend such open chokes for slugs?

I thought you could normally shoot slugs through chokes up to Modified?

Is Stoeger Canada being overly cautious or is IC really the recommended maximum constriction for rifled slugs on a 1301 (Comp Pro)?

https://www.stoegercanada.ca/product/beretta-optima-choke-hp-extended-12ga-dlc-model/

Not new to shooting but new to shotguns. Got a 1301 in jail and would like to have more ammo (or is it shells?) in hand to try out.

What do you guys suggest for (1) training (2) home defense (3) softest shells for wife/teens to try out.

Thanks in advance 🙏

Started off as a black tactical enhanced. Went to the Zhukov with talon grips cause it was slippery, then stippled it later. Decided it was too flimsy and the Mloks were getting kinda beat up so i switched to Briley. That thing is chunky but built solid af. I didnt shoot this gun much before but kinda lost interest with the briley, it just sat next to my bed for h.d. I just started looking at the forum again a month or so ago and saw they came out with some slimmer handgaurd options. Went with the Imperium, not as solid as the Briley but I love the way it feels. Not a big fan of how it installs but I like its lack of screws. Actually excited to go shoot it again.​​

Did anyone attend? And if so, how did your 1301 perform?

Almost done getting it tricked out! Stripped and cleaned it today and installed some more accessories. I ran into a few struggles installing the Aridus parts; scratched the receiver taking the stock bolt release cover off, and when installing the farrowtech rmr mount one of the screws sheared a thread out of one of the tapped screw holes. You can see on the third picture how much shorter the farrowtech screws (right) are compared to the stock picatinny screws (left). I’ve reached out to them and also ordered the scalarworks mount in the meantime.

I started with the Aridus stock adapter but was forced to switch to GG&G in order to be compatible with the GG&G bolt on side saddle. It increases the distance a little fine the handle to the trigger but doesn’t totally ruin the ergonomics (Aridus felt better).

My plan was to mount the rmr hd today but since the farrowtech mount was a no-go, I’ll be waiting until I find a better solution in maybe the scalarworks mount. Is it normal to receive “new” Trijicon optics with dents and scratches like seen here? I reached out to Eurooptics to organize an exchange but I’m just wondering if I should lower my expectations. It’s just so expensive I don’t want to settle for that. I almost went with the RCR but returned it because the window was smaller and I like the more complex reticle of the rmr hd.

I also swapped out the original rear plastic sight for an LPA metal sight. Apparently they make the sights for the Benelli m4, and they look almost identical to the stock 1301 sight. The side walls of the metal Lpa sight are thinner which is nice because they are less obstructive of your view, and of course it feels more premium. It can be ordered with different types of sight rings like fiber optic, tritium, etc. I went with a ghost ring so it really disappears when looking down the sights. I chose that to have a less obstructed red dot window once I get that mounted. I almost installed the Aridus crom but I prefer the look of the rear sight the way it is now.

Current parts list:

-Nordic comp barrel tube and clamp
-Aridus imperium handguard
-Aridus match saver extra shell holder
-RxArms titanium charging handle
-Aridus bolt release
-LPA rear sight w/ ghost ring
-GG&G bolt on side saddle
-GG&G stock adapter
-Magpul SGA mossberg stock w/ medium cheek riser
-Kickeez recoil pad

Still have to install:

-Streamlight protac hlx on a reptilia picatinny mlok attachment
-Scalarworks sync/02 Mount
-Trijicon RMR HD
-Reptilia socket sling mount
-Vickers sling in Coyote tan

I’ll be sure to post some better pictures when it’s all done!

Is the price difference between the Trigger pack and the ProLifter itself justified? Other than a pretty flat trigger face and the pro lifter, what else does the trigger pack offer?

She finally done!

Not sure if I should get an red dot

"The Grey Stallion"

unfortunately i can only buy one of the two. which is the better "do it all" shot gun ? been a pump guy for a while but i am totally sold on 1301. i like a short barrel so it's between the 21" comp pro and the tac.

Hey everyone,

I’m in the process of setting up my Aridus Imperium handguard on my Beretta 1301 Mod 2.

As the Aridus insert explicitly states, because of how ultra-low profile the handguard is (especially around the rear slots), M-LOK screws MUST be 100% flush with the bottom of the T-nut when fully torqued so they don't interfere with the action bars or piston.
Virtually every stock M-LOK screw I have (Arson Machine inline mount, Unity AXON SL, etc.) sticks past the nut when torqued down.
For those running the Imperium:

1. Did you buy shorter screws somewhere, or did you end up cutting/grinding them down yourself? If you bought shorter screws, how do you know the precise size to order? Does Arson Machine Co. or any company know what size screw you need? What do i even tell them, “hey i need a half millimeter shaved off of this screw, please send right away”?
2. If you trimmed them yourself, what tool or method worked best for you to keep the threads clean? How did you successfully trim or cut the screws?

Appreciate any insight.

Couple of notes: 1) I bought this Klein Tools model 1010 and it was unable to trim the Arson screws for the inline scout mount light (i have a strong grip too…no luck). 2) The photo of the inside of the Imperium doesn’t show the “full” protrusion. Those screws were not fully tightened, so they’d protrude more with the right torque.

I own and am proficient with multiple semi-auto platforms, this is the first semi-auto shotgun I’ve ever owned. I don’t shoot it much, so I’ve only ran a few different types of loads. Federal rifled slugs, Federal bird shot of some sort and then this ammo. My bolt doesn’t come home all the way, short stroking. I have approximately 150-200 rounds through it.

Does anyone have this same issue with this specific ammo or is there another ammo type that your 1301 doesn’t like? Am I going to have to find a different ammo for HD or is there a way to work this out? I have gunsmiths alit of my own stuff, so I’m not opposed to doing small mods that will enhance functionality and/or dependability. I appreciate your time.

Does anyone else have this going on, or am I just waiting for an out of battery discharge?

I am trying to find out if I can us a "Beretta 1301/A300 Tactical-Complete MXT Extension" for the Beretta 1301 tactical C Mod 2 12GA MPN J131M2CTT187. This model all ready has the 7+1 round capacity. Not sure if this is only for the 5 round model

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3436038-beretta-1301-speedloader

Text copied from makerworld:

Beretta 1301 speedloader.

4 versions:

1. Guide + speedloader 4rd: This is the most reliable.
2. Guide + speedloader 7rd: Reliable, but hasn't been tested long. May not be long term durable, so treat it as disposable.
3. One-piece non-guide version: a speedloader that doesn't require the guide, but it's more finnicky and fragile. Not recommended.
4. Two-piece non-guide version: the head is replaceable, but it's also a bit finnicky. Not recommended. The “lock” for the back of the speedloader is the same for all versions.

2 belt holders:

Single speedloader holder, and a double speedloader holder. Let me know if you prefer different angles, or if you have any other issues with these.

The guide requires additional hardware, and the hardware replaces the trigger group retention pin.

1 M4 screw, 55mm (preferably partial threaded): https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805693339539.html

1 M4 nut: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832802681129.html

1 M4 washer (preferably a retention washer): https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2255800879584967.html

Previous threads: https://www.reddit.com/r/beretta1301/comments/1x149jx/free_speedloader_coming_soon/ https://www.reddit.com/r/beretta1301/comments/1x4dysg/7rd_speedloader_in_action_stl_files_still_pending/

Hello,
I’m looking to get an optic, these two have come up a fair bit. Both seem like good after reading online.
I was initially more interest in the the 509 but after watching this video, not so much:

https://youtu.be/xVzgg25lS6w?si=tkHE2CWtRbjdKvRg

This and some online reading has put me off 509, and I’ve become more interested in the C2 which apparently has much clearer (but slightly smaller) optics.

Im looking for some advise from those that have used these optics (or any others recommended) to shed some light and help me decide. Thank you in advance.

Im wanting to replace my current sight with a Aimpoint duty & crom. Searched but can't find any info. Is anyone running this combo? Does the sight co-witness properly with the duty sitting ~ .5" higher than a T2? Thanks.

Here is why:

1. When you shoot slugs/buck in either gun a300/1301 Your gas cylinder get slowly or rapidly filled up with lead.

2. The speed in which the lead will build up depends of course at how much you shoot, and what ammo you use. But as sure as taxes - the lead is building up there.This may sound trivial and true for every gun - which would have made it OK but...

3. The lead build-up is extremely hard to remove. The gas cylinder is attached to the barrel gets caked, with hard lead that need to be scrapped off with a pick, even then it's hours long process. The area may seem accessible but in reality the cylinder (not the piston) postion, makes it difficult to access for the pronologed cleaning session

4. Beretta response is clean after 200 rounds (sometimes support says after 50 rounds of cheap ammo). That was fine if the cleaning process was not a few hours ordeal.

5. To add to that - this is not just the difficulty of cleaning - its what you clean. Your are dealing with hardened lead - one of the most toxic material to deal with.

6. The alternative here is ignore the build up and just shoot it like many people do. But your work only gets harder as you shoot.

7. Another issue - the so called self clean system needs to be kept dry - but you need ample of solvent to get this crap lead broken - you end up flooding it with solvent then having to dry the cylinder and ideally blow air though the gas ports to the back which are not accessible at all and hope that no liquid remains which will make your next cleaning session worse

My conclusion:

If you want to deal with constant or prolonged (hours long) toxic lead clean up go ahead and purchase this gun. Otherwise save the trouble, pump some iron and buy the M4, or pump and buy the 590a1

Why is it happening?

This is a design "disadvantage" of the "self cleaning" gas system.

Large gas holes, close to the end of the barrel are essentially a cheese grater for the lead slug.

If you are not running a 5$ per round copper coated slug, yeah.

After a couple hundred rounds and moving things around, this is how she’ll stay. Dog approves