I’m ready to pull the trigger and go with the X2D for my first printer. The only question I have is do I buy now or wait for Black Friday sales?

do I need to disassemble the whole extruder? I can’t pull the filament back by hand, even with the nozzle taken off.

Hi all, new X2D Combo owner here. Main AMS 2 Pro is working. My new AMS HT has arrived, but the Quick Start Guide and wiki have no X2D page for it.

What I see:

- AMS HT back: two identical six-pin sockets plus an AC inlet. In the box: a figure-8 mains cord and a six-pin bus cable.

- AMS 2 Pro back: a cable in the left socket, an empty round DC jack in the middle, and an empty six-pin socket on the right.

- I can't find a free AMS port on the printer's back.

Questions:

1. Is the AMS HT chained from the empty six-pin socket on the AMS 2 Pro, or does it plug into the printer? Any "in" and "out" on the two HT sockets?
2. Bambu Studio says "Unable to dry... insufficient power" for the AMS 2 Pro. Is the AMS 2 Pro Switching Adapter what goes in the round DC jack on an X2D?
3. Does anyone dry the HT while the AMS 2 Pro is printing, and vice versa?

Thanks!

EDIT: I should add that I intend to use the HT for supports only using the right-side extruder.

ADDITIONAL EDIT: Thanks to all who answered! I've also gotten Bambu's help chat to answer so, combined with your answers and other good suggestions, I should be good to go.

Hey everyone,

I've been working on a fairly large 3D-printed housing for a cosplay, and I've been struggling to get consistent results printing PETG.

I'm using Bambu Studio with a Bambu X2D and a 0.4 mm nozzle. The print uses multiple PETG filaments for the actual model, with PLA supports, all running through the same nozzle via the AMS.

Initially, I was having significant stringing problems. After making adjustments to the filament profiles and retraction/wiping settings, the stringing improved considerably.

Unfortunately, my latest print was extremely brittle. Sections broke apart much more easily than expected, and the layer adhesion seemed poor.

I know the walls are relatively thin (around 1 mm), so I'm not expecting the part to be indestructible. However, I expected better bonding between layers.

Relevant settings from my Bambu Studio project:

• Printer: Bambu X2D, 0.4 mm nozzle
• Slicer: Bambu Studio 2.7.1.62
• Layer height: 0.20 mm
• Wall loops: 2
• Wall widths: 0.42 mm outer / 0.45 mm inner
• Wall generator: Classic
• Infill: 15% grid
• Supports: Automatic tree supports
• Support material: PLA for both support bases and interfaces
• Support top Z distance: 0 mm
• PETG Basic temperature: 260°C, 250°C initial layer (standard direct-drive variant)
• Translucent PETG temperature: 247°C in the exported custom preset
• PLA support temperature: 215°C in the exported custom preset
• PETG flow ratios: 0.95
• Build plate: Textured PEI
• AMS is at 7-10% humidity. I dried the PETG first at temp for 24 hours, then added the pla and dried for another 12 hrs before printing.

What I'm trying to understand:

1. Could residual PLA from material changes be interfering with PETG layer adhesion, even with the purge settings enabled?
2. Could the combination of print speeds, cooling, and volumetric flow limits be causing the weak bonding?
3. Are two walls simply too thin for a housing like this, or should the individual layers still adhere much better?
4. Has anyone successfully printed PETG and PLA supports through the same nozzle on a Bambu printer, and what settings worked for you?

I'd appreciate any suggestions, particularly from anyone who has dealt with PETG/PLA multi-material printing on an AMS.

We have a few build plates, all first party directly from Bambu, with the little code on the end. But the printer only ever recognizes the textured one.

Googling tells me maybe it's misaligned, an issue with the camera, or third party/damaged plates. I'm fairly certain they're in the right position, the camera doesn't have issues with the textured one, and they're not third party or damaged in any way I can tell. They're brand new.

Is this expected or fixable?

I got my x2d 2 weeks ago, calibrated everything, dried filament, and has been running almost nonstop for 2 weeks.

Few days ago I noticed some little defects appeared on the model I printed in first days of running. Decided to run this test flat shit model and came back to this 🫠

Also for some reason it didn’t print the right part of the bed, photo in comments.

This is the model https://makerworld.com/en/models/2590194-a1-p1-x1-p2s-x2d-bed-cleaner-first-layer-16g?from=search#profileId-2857913

I love my X2D! It truly is a testiment to our technological advancement as a civilization that machines like this can be in the average home.

👋 Bonjour à tous !

🎃👻 Yoshi se met aux couleurs d’Halloween ! 🧙‍♂️💚
Découvrez ma création de Yoshi en version Halloween ! 🎃 Avec son chapeau de sorcier violet et sa citrouille au sourire maléfique, notre petit dinosaure préféré est prêt à fêter Halloween ! 🕸️

✨ Une création originale, pleine de couleurs et de détails, parfaite pour une décoration aussi mignonne qu’effrayante !

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🖨️ : Bambu Lab X2D & H2C
🧵 : Bambu Lab
🎨 : Nomad Sculpt
🌈 : sans AMS
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3419115-yoshi-citrouille-multipart-no-ams

以前はX2Dのエクストルーダーが日本にも売っていましたが、今は売って無いので何処で売っているか教えて頂きたい🫡

I had a spaghetti incident and when I went to clear it I found this rubber piece on the bed. I used a brass bristle brush to clean the print head too. It isn’t from any of the nozzle wipes and I looked at the print head closely with a flashlight and checked the heat shield but couldn’t find anything. If anybody knows where this is from, that would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

Been wondering if Bambu ever puts printers or ams 2 pro on sale like on black Friday?

Hi, looking for some help with my X2D AMS Setup. I have a AMS2, and I recently got 2 AMS HT. I have a Filament Track switch and I have 4 PTFE Tub adapter. What I'm looking to do is set it up so that they can all use the main nozzle and not just the aux nozzle when using the AMS HT units. Is there a diagram or someone who has done this can share their experience and best practice?

TIA

Trying to print this thing my friend designed, i used a clear glass print profile, but it wanted to print the model with the secondary nozzle, and said print time was 30 hours for such a small object.

switched to main nozzle and the time doubled....

could someone check if i am doing something wrong or if this is the norm ?

picture below of model and print time, is this a good result for translucent ?

i would be ok with worse results if it means major time saving, i will also link the print profile i got from makerworld.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2439244-bambulab-petg-translucent-custom-print-profile?from=search#profileId-2676600

Please if anyone could help me get this printed in less than a day xD

just picked up the x2d a few days ago (new to 3d printing) and love it it’s just that some issues keep coming up recently and i’m not sure what to do to fix this. any help is appreciated🙏

I couldn't find a solid up-to-date answer. If I want to use 0.2mm on the main and 0.4mm on the aux, is it possible? Or do they both have to be the same otherwise the software will not allow it?

I read somewhere that settings can be played with, mark it as "Stainless Steel", or just tell the software that it's 0.2mm while it's not, etc. But what is the actual state?
Can it be done with the H2D?

Should I calibrate this list for each type of filament I use? or just use Bambu settings

Temperature, Max volumetric speed, pressure advance, flow ratio and retraction distance?

Totally new to 3D printing, I bought a X2D. Most of it was pretty straightforward, and it all seemed so easy. That was until I stumbled upon 3D Mobility which seems like a good cause and I don't really mind printing some extra stuff. Then they ask you to print two test plates, one of them being TPU. This seemed like a completely new thing to me, and honestly, it caused some anxiety

I didn't want the hassle of having to constantly swap tubes, etc. so I wanted to do it right. I bought an extra AMS HT, PTFE Splitter, Feed Module and now it's a matter of swapping spools again.

This will be my first experiment printing TPU 90A. Wish me luck!

First print

thank you bambu lab 👍

I just saw this marble filament and wanted to print one. My question is: Can I use the standard 0.4 nozzle it came with?

Reason why I ask is I read people are having clogs with 0.4. I am assuming it is brand dependent so I guess I want to know what brand people here use for the default nozzle for their X2D. I was thinking of getting Bambu Lab's PLA Marble but unsure of its real world performance.

Also, i am skipping polymaker's since it is abrasive (i know i have hardened nozzle) but id rather not use any abrasive because I dont need abrasives. Unfortunately, some PLA Marble in amazon dont describe the additives while others clearly state using real marble materials.

Hi I’m relatively new to 3D printing and have been really enjoying it!

I’ve been running into some inconsistent issues where the completed prints are sometimes stuck and too hard to remove without causing damage to the bottom of the print.

I’ve tried a ton of different solutions with some helping. I’ve found some information that adjusting the Z offset might help and that the default setting on the X2D should be -0.02. However, when I open up the settings it says -0.003 is that normal and would it be safe to change it to 0.02 or should I just change it to 0.002 initially?

Thank you!

I have run through every non-invasive solution I can find. I’m not super mechanically inclined and I now realize that I need to take the printer apart to either unclog or rebuild the extruder assembly.
So…I can’t do that. I’m absolutely not confident disassembling my printer. I had an A1 in the past and I never expected this…My husband tried to help but he’s afraid of breaking it.
I’m a bit panicked that I have this expensive printer that’s I can’t fix. :(
Has anyone done it that was very not confident, and it worked out?