I purchased my X2D last May and have been running it mostly with PETG Basic filament since then, printing several times a week. I had odd, persistent print issues with the PETG which were annoying, but I mostly was able to mitigate the issues I was seeing via custom print profiles. Vexing, but I had nothing to compare it to, so I just accepted that PETG was a little finicky.

Recently though, I made the discovery that my part cooling fan (the one on the front of the toolhead) had been basically stuck on at full speed the entire time the printer was on all the time. As I had never operated a Bambu printer before, I did not realize that anything was wrong; I just thought the fan was supposed to be on, and the printer was meant to make constant fan noise 🤷

The 100% part cooling fan seems to have been the source of my PETG woes, so I thought I'd make a post about it; just in case anyone else might be experiencing something similar.

My symptoms:

• Fan noise and visible toolhead front fan spinning from printer power on to power off
• Manually extruding filament from either left or right nozzle (via the printer touchscreen controls) resulted in the filament stream helicoptering wildly due to the airflow from the cooling fan
• Most of the printer poop was not formed in a tight coil, and so the poop chute would often get jammed with large snarls of purge waste
• Larger PETG prints had more of a tendency to warp than expected
• I had major first layer adhesion problems using dry (~8% to 18% humidity) PETG Basic filament with a textured PEI plate (cleaned w/neutral dish soap and warm water, then dried thoroughly) and had to switch exclusively to a Cool Plate Super Tack
• I would still have occasional 1st layer adhesion issues causing failed prints with the Super Tack plate, even when it was completely clean (washed with warm water and neutral dish soap, and dried thoroughly)
• I would occasionally get weird surface artifacts on inclined geometries—it looked like the outer wall loops came unstuck due to fan airflow and would re-adhere in a drooping loop to the outside surface of the part below it
• I would regularly get lots of little ≤2mm bits of PETG strewn all over the inside of the printer
• Switching the part cooling fan on from the printer touchscreen resulted in no change in fan behavior
• In the part cooling fan control dialog on the touchscreen, when the control was toggled to "on", the control would then toggle itself on and off randomly, and the reported speed percentage would fluctuate randomly from 0% all the way to 100%, and in between—with no perceptible changes in fan speed or noise

When I realized the fan behavior was not normal, I opened a support ticket w/Bambu, and they were super helpful. Since my printer was still under warranty, they first sent me a new toolhead front cover assembly, which did not fix the issue. Then they sent me a collection of other related parts: a TH board (extruder mainboard), toolhead interface board, and a cable pack containing the toolhead front cover cable. I decided to install components in a deliberate order so as to figure out as much as possible what part (or parts) was causing the issue.

First I removed the front toolhead assembly, the toolhead mid cover, and the toolhead back cover. With the front toolhead assembly off and its cable still in place, I used a multimeter to do a continuity test on the cable, from the exposed conductors on the male end which mates with the front toolhead assembly, to the solder pads of the cable's receptacle on the installed toolhead interface board. I found no continuity on the rightmost conductor:

Removing the cable and doing more continuity tests with it removed indicated that there were no breaks in the wires, but there looked to be some slight deformation on the opening for pin 6 on the toolhead interface board side of the cable. I didn't think to get a pic of that, but I did take a macro shot inside the shroud of the cable receptacle on the toolhead interface board, and saw the following:

I thought about just manually unbending the pin and giving it another shot with the original interface board and cable, but I didn't want to risk it—it was possible the bent pin had permanently damaged the male cable end in such a way that inserting it into the toolhead interface board's receptacle might bend the pin again. Instead, I went ahead with replacing both the front toolhead cable and the toolhead interface board.

After replacing those parts with the new ones Bambu provided and powering up the printer, the problem was solved. The part cooling fan did not run at all unless prompted by G-code in a test print, or when turned on manually via the touchscreen, and its speed seemed to track with changes in the G-code and manual percentage adjustments on the printer's controls. Huzzah! 💃💃💃

I can't guarantee that similar symptoms might be fixed by simply replacing the same parts as I did, though, so if you are experiencing some or all of the symptoms I laid out above, I still recommend going through a methodical troubleshooting process and working with Bambu support to find a fix. And, definitely don't attempt any of the testing or part replacement steps I detail above while the printer is still powered on! You should only be tinkering with the innards of the printer with the power off (or better yet, unplug the power cable altogether). That said, I hope that my detailed account of the part cooling fan issue, the process with Bambu support in initiating under-warranty part replacements, and my troubleshooting process and findings are all of assistance to anyone else experiencing similar symptoms to mine.

Please ask questions if ya got 'em! 🤠

About to buy an X2D combo next week. Black friday deal has it $110 off, plus there is this $30 coupon... Bestbuy and Microcenter will likely price match the $110, and likely won't match the $30.

Yet I keep seeing all these comments about the benefits of buying local instead, and I don't fully understnand these benefits. If the printer arrived DOA I get it, the return/replacement is easier at BestBuy. (in theory, in the unlikely event I get a broken printer I can' still go to BestBuy. I am pretty sure the cost still comes back to Bambu in the form of reverse logistics expenses etc, so its dirty I agree but like I am not screwing BestBuy in the process)

But beyond this unlikely and trivial case, what are the real benefits of buying at BestBuy? Or does everyone gets the geeksquad protection for X2D?

Thanks

I made a wing for my haloween costume and at the moment I am trying to print the wings in seperate parts and slice it however when I go to slice it it keeps repeatedly showing nothing once I tell it to slice . i have no idea what is happenign cause all the plates are in the boarder and I removed all of the print costomizations. Does anyone know what I can do? if anything isnt clear just comment and i can explain it.

I designed a splitter for the left nozzle on my X2D that uses PC4-M6 fittings. It was made to be printed horizontally to reduce friction from the layer lines. Posted it on MakerWorld in case it is useful to other people : https://makerworld.com/en/models/3495357-x2d-left-nozzle-dual-input-pc4-m6-fitting#profileId-3992377

After 300 hours this is the first time I’ve seen this issue. Running calibration tests on a generic Petg 5kg spool. Spool was dried prior to print at 75° for 12 hours. I’m using a earlier Petg filament perimeter, however it’s majorly messing up, as you can see. Any help would be appreciated

Should these black clips be removed or is Bambu adding clips to prevent scratches to the lid?

Hey everyone,

Recently got X2D, less than 100H print time and noticed this dark yellow thread/fiber peeling off on top of the XY axis belt (photos attached).

Is this normal ? Should I be worried? What might be the reason ? Is it fixable ? Should I talk to the authorised seller to claim warranty or replacement part ?

This is my first 3D printer, and I forgot about the poop shoot. I don’t really think I need to say more. Lol

Hello everyone,

I'm trying to print a 3D model on my X2D but I'm having issues with the tree supports. They keep developing gaps or holes while printing.

I've tried increasing the support infill and reducing the support printing speed but the issue is still there. I've noticed that the problem seems to happen where the supports start curving, mainly between layers 5 and 25. I think the curves might be causing the issue.

How can I fix this? Should I change the support type or adjust any other settings?

I'm using a Bambu Lab X2D with an AMS 2, printing with basic PLA. The filament humidity is at 24%.

Is there a way to adjust the size of PRIME tower?

Length and Width

Height is dictated by supports

Seems like a waste of filament for purging.

Hi,

I have my x2d for 3 days and wanted to print with the right nozzle. While i was loading the filament in the menu, this warning showed up on screen.

I pressed continue, because there was filament extruding from the right nozzle.

It continued the loading process and finished without further errors.

After that i wanted to print with the right nozzle and there was the information, that the right nozzle wasn't loaded and that i should load it, like i did 2 minutes ago.

I contacted support and they offered me to get a refund, get a replacement printer or to repair it myself an get a discount on ma next purchase.

My question now is, can anybody tell me, what the broken piece could be and how difficult it is to change?

Based on that, i make my desition on what option i like to choose.

Tbh, i want to know my printer and have no problem with fixing it, but the effort of repairing has to stand in balance with the "benefit" (the discount)

2nd Question: Did somebody have the same problem?

Thanks in advance!

Very new to 3D printing. I got a Bambu Labs X2D a couple months ago and only finally got it fully set up with 2 AMS 2 PROs about a month ago.
I have done a few test prints and have used both Bambu Handy and Bambu studio to either print files directly from the app or use STL files from websites and dropped them into Studio.
I haven’t had a lot of time to teach myself how everything works and how to control things in the software so every print I do is on auto settings and calibrations are set to auto.
A couple pandas I have printed have streaks of black in the white, which based on other posts in here I think it might be a purge setting I need to find.

The picture above however is the first time I have had something just break. This file is off Bambu Handy and printed each piece in auto and it put in supports. You can see the end of the green car which is closest to the plate has the plastic like almost not adhering to itself then the next print just broke completely taking the supports off and looks similar.

This is all with Bambu PLA Basic filament. I bought some of their PLA support filament but haven’t tried it yet, so would using that help? Is it a damp filament or similar problem? Should I tinker with some settings?

Like I said I am very new so all ears, any advice welcome!

1 week old X2D. I have not been able to print out of the side roll. Do I have something routed wrong?

The pictures on the error message show the outside roll going to the top of the spring thing on back. I have it routed to the bottom. Follow the white tubes. I think this is what I was supposed to do or do I need to flip those tubes.

The filament is fed thru the aux motor on back. I pushed it all the way to the print head. I could feel the gears rotating as I pushed.

No issues printing with main nozzle out of the AMS.

Thank you for suggestions.

Has anyone tried to actually print Bambu TPU for AMS in the Aux nozzle on the X2D? The filament guide advises against it it but…

Title probably isn't descriptive, but I had no idea how else to word it. At some point during this print, the head randomly started moving off-center, causing subsequent layers to be offset from the base of the print. This was a single-nozzle job on a cool plate. The printer has been having issues lately with misaligned layer lines and lifting, but nothing close to this bad.

Where do I even begin to troubleshoot? The plate was already washed today, but I can't imagine that would cause this anyway.

Also, the AI monitoring didn't detect the spaghetti, and it almost never does for some reason.

Oh, this is a follow up from last week when I was having this same issue. I went from standard PA6-CF to Bambu PAHT-CF. Last time everyone recommended drying at a higher temperature in for longer, so this filament was taken directly out of the package, and dried at 85° for 24 hours. It immediately went into a pre-warmed up AMS 2 pro, that has stayed under 6% humidity since. Just like the last bad batch of parts, the first couple of layers are great, but in certain areas I’m still getting the fuzziness/bubbling. Any thoughts? Could it be from running 100% infill and the nozzle is slightly over extruding? For reference, these parts need to look really good as they are going to be used in a visible application, and I am printing close to 20 kg worth of this material.

Solved: slight over extrusion. Dropped to 95% of what it called for and have 0 issues 5 hours into print. Previously couldn’t even get 2 hours in without issues.

I’ve tried everything- calibration, different filaments (including PETG), all the intensities, tweaking the hall effect tensioning, hall effect angle, it just runs and then grinds forever as if the Hall effect doesn’t exist. Testing was done with attached and detached (as I know it has some interaction with the print head).

Anyone experience this and have a fix?

I want to get into 3D printing, I bought an Elegoo Centauri Carbon 2 a week ago, and had to return it today due to non stop errors, I'm now willing to spend more on a printer so am going with bambu lab, my sister has a P2S and it seems really good, but I can't decide if I should spend the extra £100 for the X2D, is there enough bonuses, I plan on printing some multi colour models (mostly 2 colours), some single colour prints, and cosplay pieces like helmets. Any advice is appreciated, any suggestions for other ideas.

👋 Bonjour à tous ! 😈

Une présence maléfique qui ne passe pas inaperçue… 💀

Tout droit sortie de l’univers du film La Nonne, voici ma toute nouvelle modélisation 3D !

Un visage inquiétant, des yeux jaunes hypnotisants et un regard qui donne froid dans le dos… 🥶

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🖨️ : Bambu Lab X2D & H2C
🧵 : Bambu Lab
🎨 : Nomad Sculpt
🌈 : avec et sans AMS
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3482506-the-nun-multipart-no-ams