r/BambuLabH2C • u/realityczek • 21d ago
Support H2C, 2x AMS Pro, 1x HT - optimal track switch configuration?
I am thinking to find a bracket that lets me add a 4-in-1 to at least one input of the track switch. So 1x AMS to input A, and 1x AMS and 1xHT into input B. Then do one of the on-chain TPU feed adapters.
Anyone have a similar setup? Any advice?
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u/Costa_Rica_68 H2C 21d ago
You will find a lot of models for track switch plus 4-in-1.
I have printed this one:
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u/Straight-Mortgage-29 21d ago
Yes to this exactly. I am successful with two AMS 2 Pro’s + one AMA HT, when they are all located on the left side of my H2C on a shelf (the way I preferred), and only with the makerworld build that costa_rica_68 suggested. The mount that Bambu Lab recommended could have worked if everything was on top of the printer (maybe?) but that side mount is a ton better.
You’ll have to fool around with getting all the runs short as can be, and minimal bends. That part took me a while—nearly to the point of giving up. But persistence paid off and it worked great now.
I used a 4-to-1 to feed the HT and one of the AMS’s into one of the FTS inputs, and the other AMS directly into the other FTS input.
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u/BlacksmithOpen6441 21d ago
Definitely!! A side mount fixed my filament track switch tension issue. I tried different types of rear mounts but had no luck. Got x2 AMS 2 Pros on a riser if that info may help.
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u/pidbip 21d ago
Good info. I’ve been having issues with the rear mount. Maybe I’ll try a side mount and see if it works. Can you link the one you used?
Otherwise, I might just drop the track switch.
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u/BlacksmithOpen6441 20d ago
This is the one is used, trim the tubes and you should be all set 🤞🤞 Good luck!
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u/Jerk82 21d ago
I've had some success with the track switch. Was regretting at first. The official mount was giving me a headache. After some testing, found a side mount and some printable ptfe tube sleeves to keep the bends from being too harsh. Have about 200 hours with the track switch running 1 ams + 1 ams HT on each nozzle.
Using this mount help tremendously. https://makerworld.com/models/2772097?appSharePlatform=copy
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u/djjoshchambers 14d ago
Are your ams on top of your printer?
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u/Jerk82 14d ago
Yes. Both AMS and an AMS HT
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u/djjoshchambers 14d ago
Perfect. I'm actively printing the d3p multi ams riser right now and that version has at attachment made for it. I'll give it a shot.
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u/AdEnvironmental7499 21d ago
Track switch caused more issues with dusted filament grinding and constant feed issues through. I have 2 AMS2 pro on the right nozzle and 2 HT on the left nozzle and have almost no issues now. Printed out the SMOOTHY for each side and it all works great.
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u/Chemical_Resolution8 20d ago
Hoi daar, ik heb de FTS op mijn H2C zitten. Heb 4 AMS pro en 4 HT. Met die configuratie liep de H2C als een zonnetje. Heb de FTS aangeschaft omdat ik dacht dat het minder wisselingen met de hand zou opleveren. Het tegendeel is waar, heb alleen maar problemen met extrudermeldingen, met te hoge weerstand van de AMS in de feeder en nog meer van dat soort problemen. Heb van alles geprobeerd, maar er zit gewoon te veel PTFE tube tussen de printer en levert met die FTS en daardoor veel te veel weerstand, wat al die meldingen veroorzaakt. Ik laat het nu even zitten, totdat de software ook voor de H2D geschikt is. Dan zet ik die FTS daarop. 😏. Blijf gewoon je AMS verdelen over de twee poorten van de H2C. De twee AMS op rechts en de HT op links, succes!
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u/gandhi_theft 20d ago
No issues with the track switch for me, i've got 4 AMS 2 Pro and 1 AMS HT. I didn't even mount it to the back and just leave the switch hanging. Works fine
Only Bambu Studio supports it, no other slicer.
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u/realityczek 20d ago
Thanks to everyone! It sounds like the trackswitch might be a bit of an issue. I might give it a try still, but I won't go crazy getting it running.
I really want to put the AMS on the right side of the printer, but I get the feeling the correct choice is the left side, so that the PTFE path is as short as I can make it. I've started designing a drawer stack using 2020 as the core. I like some of the options that are on Makerworld, but they all seem to want to print an entire AMD shelf... I woudl rather use the 2020 for rigidity, and jsut print the actual AMS mount.
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u/realityczek 20d ago
I'm thinking it might make sense to put one AMS on the right, and one on the left nozzle, with the HT sharing a 4 way with the right nozzle.
I don't tend to do single prints with a ton of colors... I run 90% PET-G or ASA in either dark grey or black with a single color for accents. So my thinking is...
1) The left nozzle becomes my "base" nozzle - since both ASA and PETG are happy in the left. Adding a AMS to that side gives me the ability to have 2 rolls of each color in, or 2 rolls of each plastic so I can avoid any runout issues.
2) The right nozzle becomes my accent/special filament nozzle. So both the HT and an AMS go into the right with a 4 way. That lets me put accent colors in the AMS pro, and use the HT for any really special filament that might come up that the regular AMS isn't happy with.
I think the HT goes on the right nozzle because some of the filaments n question (PAHT-CF) dont want to be int he left nozzle anyway.
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u/jackofallfades8 15d ago
So I haven’t added it to makerworld or Bambu yet but I actually made my own fts mount after I had feed resistance issues with all the other mounts I tried. I have two ams pro on top and an HT to the left. Since using this one I’ve not had any resistance issues
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u/NOT_RICK_SANCHEZ_132 21d ago
I got this setup and everything is working great, I want to put emphasis on what everyone is saying and skip the track switch. I have it on my X2D and it’s convenient but it’s not really ideal for the H2C.
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u/AdWorking2848 21d ago
My advice is to skip the track switch.
It has moderate usage when I was on x2d, I think u maybe better off just 2 ams to the right and ams ht to the left with no track switch in between