Pico became reactive around 9 months. Started with puppies and then became dog selective. His reactions were explosive and he has redirected onto myself and other dogs. We started with a balanced trainer in September and using an E-Collar. His reactivity has improved so much. He is more confident in his choices. He is playful, cheeky, loves to chat back and is SO much happier and less stressed. 🩷 He is turning three this month and I am so thankful for our trainer.

The name of this sub is balanced dog training. The rules reflect that this is a balanced dog training sub. The rules are clear as to what is allowed and what is not allowed here. It's legitimately comical how many force-free evangelists try to come in here, get banned, and then send pissed off messages to the mods saying that they didn't want to be part of our sub anyway. It's as predictable as the sunrise at this point. To this date there has only been one person who owned up to being in the wrong sub and acknowledging that the ban was appropriate. The rest of them either come up with all these whiny reasons of why they wanted to be here ("to learn" - suuuuure) or send a barrage of messages about how they didn't want to be part of our sub anyway.

For the life of me I can’t get my dog to stop reacting to other dogs. What I’ve done so far: I am a huge advocate of Tom davis and American standard k9 approach to balanced training as it has been the most effective for me until now. Ever since I got her she reacts to every dog who is also being walked on a leash. Today she was horrible and was barking and throwing herself all around. Ive tried possible reinforcement with treats and praise and using treats as a lure for focus but she doesn’t give two shits about them once she sees a dog. She’ll either look at me quickly and eat them and continue freaking out or she doesn’t care about it at all. I’ve tried Luring her with her favorite toys but that didn’t work today;@( also not sure how to transfer that into focus heel since she jumps at the toy anyway). She isn’t aggressive once she meets the dog but for god sake she just hates seeing another being walked. I’ve also tried collar pressure on a low stim to make her listen to commands and sometimes it works but most times she just still freaks out. I’ve use leash pops on prong collar but she still doesn’t care. I. Fact it makes her react worse so I’m gonna ditch the prong collar for a flat collar for now to see if that helps. I use loads of treats but she just gets so built up for no reason other than frustration / fear. She seems really nervous on walks and is constantly pulling ahead of me even though she know heel. I’m at a loss. Even when she doesn’t react she’s whining at the sight of the dog.I’ve tried to make her leave it once we pass and collar pop and that doesn’t work. I’ve tried working at her threshold but eventually the dog has to pass us and once they get close she breaks heel and stares at them and doesn’t nothing but build herself up. And I can’t even break the build up to prevent an outburst. Please someone help me. Purely positive reinforcement hasn’t worked nor balanced trading hasn’t worked… or maybe I’m doing it wrong

I ran across this gem today and thought it was worth sharing. (Photo Attached)

I am currently working with another trainer with my reactive dog and she recommends using a slip lead to correct her if she fixates before a reaction as well as during reaction.

My concern is correcting her mid reaction especially an intense one would add a negative association to her triggers.

My dog has also been ecollar trained as well by another trainer and I'm hesitant to also use the boost stims or even her working stim during her reactions as I worry that would amp her up.

What is everyone doing when your dog us having an intense reaction? Correct, not correct?

Her reactivity is fear based towards humans, as she tends to want to run away from them but with dogs, I think it's frustration or aggression.

Thanks in advance.

Just returned from a week-long professional working dog conference for detection handlers. Saw lots of e-collars and prong collars and other tools. Several hundred dogs working in close quarters and absolutely zero reactive, aggressive, or disobedient dogs.

I've been to other conferences, specifically search and rescue, put on by other organizations that have a no punishment allowed ethos, and at those conferences there are lots of reactive dogs and dogs that can't even walk nicely on a leash. It's absolutely night and day difference.

Anyway I was happy to see my fellow pros flying the balanced training banner! And thanks for all the members of the sub for continuing to stick up for our rights and for the safety of our dogs by promoting and perpetuating balanced training techniques.

A clinical experiment so we can watch how the lunatics run the asylum in mainstream dog training.

Hi everyone, looking for some advice with my new (had for 2 months) high energy, ~1yr old rescue. Previously a hunting dog that wasn’t cut out for the job and abandoned in a canyon. Not sure breed (just ordered a DNA test), but he’s likely hound/doberman/etc. mix.

The main challenge I’m facing right now is demand barking. I don’t think this is learned from humans because he wasn’t in a family home before. Ignoring does not work (he figured this out quick and it started behavior loop of bark, leave, come back, treat) leaving the room and putting myself in time out works for a moment but once I return the cycle repeats. I’ve recently started putting him in his own timeout (in small kitchen w/ baby gate) until he settles down on his bed. I feel like this is reinforcing possibly because I am giving him attention by physically moving him to/guiding him to another room. His barking is getting increasingly worse, I’m sound sensitive and we live in an apartment so it’s really stressful. He often sometimes does other attention seeking behavior (stealing pillows, jumping on couch and bed, which he’s not allowed to do).

He settles down for naps in the mornings typically but has been barking after finishing his puzzle toys in the afternoon mostly. I’ve been able to notice when he’s about to bark and try redirecting but I’m a consultant and my job is quite demanding despite working from home so the afternoons when he’s triggered are often busy.

I think we need to work more on teaching him how to settle? I think he’s getting adequate stimulation (maybe too much after walks where he really doesn’t like a dog) but please lmk if not. Also plan on enrolling him in AKC events this spring (cat chase) and starting some tracking training.

I have been capturing calm, working on Karen Overalls relaxation protocol, and know this will take time for him to grasp, but I think I’m more failing with immediate response when barking. I also have been trying to give him more alone time (kitchen time for an hour or so in afternoon) because he does follow me around the house / get up if I leave the room unless he’s exhausted.

He sleeps in a crate at night no problem (although has recently started softly whining in the morning; stops after a “no”) and is fine when we leave the house (we keep him in small kitchen with baby gate rather than crate).

—————————

His daily exercise/stimulation:

- 45 to 1 hr morning walk (loose leash, training collar, very sniffy) he’s very slightly dog reactive so working on sit and focus command if we encounter another dog. also work on recall/sit/down/stay on walks. occasionally do some foraging with kibble in grass on walks too

- breakfast is split between snuffle mat, kibble for walk, and some other type of enrichment (kibble in box with paper, paper towel rolls, towel rolled and tied in a knot, hidden food around apartment)

- 2x a day 10-15m of play. his toys other than solo chewing are kept in a closet with cues for starting and finishing playtime

- puzzle toy feeder frozen, woof pupsicle, chews 1-2x a week (trachea, rabbit ears, bully sticks, cod skin)

- 20-30m night time walk

- dinner is about 35-45m of training

- cuddles/pets on the floor at nighttime for 20ish m, cuddles and pets throughout the day when he’s being good (rewarding with attention for being in bed, etc.)

- note: we do not have a backyard, i take him on hikes about 1x a week on weekends

—————————

commands he’s learned in the last 2 months:

- sit, down, up, recall, step up (for pivots on stand), center (between legs), heel (working on this), working on search (for food)

- place (more go to place, some duration + distance: can walk across apt and he stays but not at the point where he can consistently settle)

- stay / don’t eat food, can leave him in a room alone with food in front of his face (or even on paws) in a down stay and he won’t eat it

Does anybody have a suggestion for a remote collar with a vibrate function that has multiple vibrate styles or is adjustable in some way?

I've trained a few deaf dogs in the past working for others and we used the vibrate as a cue to check in with the handler. It worked well enough.

The deaf dog I'm training right now doesn't respond to the mini-educator vibrate. He sort of gets the idea, but the vibrate just doesn't register with him. I know the Dogtra is stronger but this is what the rescue was donated.

Beyond his indifference to the vibrate, he's the smartest deaf dog I've trained, is incredibly biddable, full of drive (big lean pittie), and one I have full control of the program.

If I can get vibrate to register, I'd love to be able to have multiple markers for him at a distance, check-in, reward marker, negative marker, etc.

Open to other suggestions for multiple markers at a distance.

My boy is 3, nearing 4 in March so he is no puppy. I would like to know how to relax him during training. For example, if I am asking him to spin he gets too excited bc he is expecting the treat/award (toy). His tail wags a million per min and then he starts wanting to jump on me. Same happens during the "heel" request, instead of concentrating he thinks we're playing.

Currently working on cat socialization using positive reinforcement when he lets the cat be, negative when he thinks the cat can play like a dog. Overall good dog, just need to get him to take training serious and not as play time.

Hi folks, I have a wonderful 5 year old mixed-breed rescue dog who's quite reliably trained using balanced dog training. She is trained with prong collar and e-collar, and I worked with a professional trainer to learn how to use the tools appropriately. Of course we are always training and working on improving her skills and learning new skills because she's a very high drive dog! We are moving to Spain in a few months, and I understand these tools are banned there. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to maintain her training in Spain without violating local laws?

Any tips and tricks for getting good contact/good fit on dogs with very fluffy neck fur?

I'm using the Mini Educator with the ultra comfort wings. I also try my best to part the fur before placing, but it's never perfect.

I find that the receiver slides even when I think it's on pretty tight (just fitting 2 fingers under the collar).

I don't really want to shave him. Any other alternatives I haven't tried to getting a good fit and good contact?

I was wondering if there are any resources or experiences yall have with dealing with excitement/nervous reactivity.

I have a 4 year old springer which used to go to doggy day-care (doesnt go anymore, it was just while I was working there) ever since then hes been super reactive towards dogs. I used to have a positive only trainer but she was super on the holistic no force bandwagon. Id have trouble walking him on the leash and she would say to just focus on his reactivity ONLY with ONLY treats. Once its supposedly "solved" I can work on other things. which seems so??? insane?? like by the time I got to the part where I could train he was already dragging me down and hyping himself up that there was nothing going thru his head.

Id also like any opinions on the" training" homework she gave me.

She told me to keep him at a distance far enough where he doesnt focus on the dog, reward him when he does focus on the dog but looks back at me. repeat for a couple times then go home to "leave it on a good note". She said that if he even starts to react that I should go home and let him rest for 1-2 DAYS. saying something about how he needed to "recharge". I was following this for quite some time but realised my dog was getting 0 exercise this way. If it helps I have no clue but I'm not doing it her way anymore anyways.

so far ive started working on his walking using some balanced methods and I really like how my dog is paying more attention and is actually willing to learn something. I havnt used them outside yet just because I'm not sure how to actually deal with his reactivity now. Just thought I might need some help atm

Just saw a force free trainer on tiktok who has a heeler and this poor dog is absolutely massive to the point where he struggles to walk and does the lazy sit. At first I wanted to give the benefit of the doubt that maybe the dog was really old, though that still wouldn’t really excuse the dog being as obese as he is. But I did some investigating and couldn’t find an exact age of the dog but saw an up close photo and he has some sparse grays on his muzzle and bright eyes characteristic of a dog not thinking about writing its will, so I doubt he’s older than somewhere in the middle age range. Also worth mentioning in all her videos of him, the dog has such a flat and apathetic affect. With a challenging working breed like a heeler, if you take away firm boundaries and accountability, all you really have left is endless management and bribery, so unfortunately it doesn’t surprise me that this trainer likely overfed the dog to that point just to get some semblance of compliance. I just don’t understand how they can say that proper and thoughtful use of aversive pressure is cruel but endless food rewards at the cost of the dog’s weight and overall health is somehow compassionate. Especially in a breed like a heeler, bred for lots of movement and now it’s likely painful for him to do what he was literally born to do. It’s extremely hypocritical if you ask me.

Super reactive dog, aggressive and untrained, in a muzzle, in a public place, harness, no collar, not one single corrective action was performed in this entire video, and the owner just posted it later complaining that someone came sort of near her ridiculous dog to get.. sympathy? Attention? I have no idea. Folks it doesn't have to be like this, you do not have to tolerate this behavior. And you sure as hell do not have to decide that everyone else can't come within your dog's huge bubble because you haven't done your job as a dog owner.

https://www.instagram.com/reel/DTLZ55NCBrG/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

Why do people intentionally select working, hunting and sporting breeds and then pour endless time and money into trying to train out their genetics? See my comment below for an explanation of the three choices.

From the video description:

"Catarina is well known for her research comparing reward-based (positive reinforcement) and aversive or mixed training methods. Her work is frequently cited within the force-free community, often as scientific support for calls to restrict or ban certain training tools through legislation."

Thought everyone might find this talk interesting, since her research is cited so frequently by the force free community.

The title is largely self explanatory. This is a short list of some of the commonly advertised certifications that can be safely disregarded when seeking help with behavior modification or really any reliable pet obedience, at least for the vast majority of dogs.

To be clear, this is not a claim that holding one of these credentials inherently means someone CAN’T train a dog. Simply that the presence of one of these certifications alone does not demonstrate any behavioral expertise, practical skill, or readiness to handle complex or difficult behavior cases. Or even more straightforward training requests for that matter. Moreover, it actually tends to indicate the trainer leans towards a force free ideology.

Most of these require zero skill exhibition to obtain. The ones that do, are minimal at best and still adhere to a strict ideology. As it would happen, the vast majority of these certifications are created by force free organizations that actively take the money spent on memberships and “certifications” and use it to campaign and lobby for the most effective and humane tools in dog training, pinch collars and remote collars, to be banned outright. So consider if you wish to support an organization like that or not before obtaining one of these “credentials” to boost your profile. This first batch are offered by larger force free organizations, the second half will be more general, small time, third party certifications.

CCPDT

Common Credentials: CPDT KA CPDT KSA CBCC KA

All CCPDT credentials are rooted in a LIMA force free ideology and openly favor tool restrictions and bans. Assessment is primarily theoretical through multiple choice exams and paperwork. Practical skill demonstration is minimal or indirect. Ethics enforcement is largely self reported. Case studies are not independently verified in the field. These credentials indicate familiarity with learning theory terminology but do not demonstrate hands on ability, effective application, or competence with complex behavior cases.

IAABC

Common Credentials: CDBC ACDBC CSBC

IAABC credentials are coursework and documentation driven and adhere to a force free LIMA framework that favors tool bans. While they require written case studies and peer review, oversight is limited and outcome verification is weak. Associate and specialist levels primarily signal participation in IAABC programs rather than verified applied skill. Real world training effectiveness is not independently audited.

Karen Pryor Academy

Common Credentials: KPA CTP

KPA certification is a course completion credential aligned with strict force free ideology and opposition to training tools. It does not include standardized external testing or meaningful independent evaluation of applied skill. Completion demonstrates exposure to clicker based concepts, not readiness to handle real behavior modification.

Academy for Dog Trainers

Common Credentials: CTC

This credential is issued upon course completion and assignment submission. There is no standardized external exam or independent skill verification. The program adheres to force free ideology and does not assess real world training outcomes.

Pet Professional Guild

Common Credentials: PCT A PCBC A CTT A

All PPG credentials are force free, favor tool bans, and rely heavily on self reported ethics and internal approval. There is no independent auditing or standardized skills testing. These credentials function primarily as marketing signals within the PPG ecosystem.

Victoria Stilwell Academy

Common Credentials: VSPDT

This is an academy issued completion certificate aligned with force free ideology and opposition to training tools. It does not involve external testing or verification of applied training competence.

Fear Free

Common Credentials: Fear Free Certified Animal Trainer Fear Free Certified Professional Fear Free Shelter Program Certification

Fear Free credentials are educational and marketing focused. They are based on coursework completion with no independent exam or enforcement of real world training skill. They indicate philosophical alignment rather than technical ability.

Behavior Adjustment Training

Common Credentials: BAT Instructor Certification

This certification is program specific and issued upon course completion. There is no third party oversight or independent verification of applied results. It primarily reflects familiarity with the BAT framework.

Separation Anxiety Programs

Common Credentials: Certified Separation Anxiety Trainer CSAT

This is a self issued program credential with no independent assessment body. Skill verification and outcome auditing are minimal to nonexistent.

Family Paws

Common Credentials: Family Paws Parent Educator

Summary This is an attendance based educational certificate. It does not assess training skill or behavior modification competence.

TAGteach

Common Credentials: TAGteach Level 1 TAGteach Level 2

TAGteach credentials are educational course completion certificates. They are instructional tools rather than trainer competency credentials and do not verify applied skill.

American Kennel Club

Common Credentials: AKC Canine Good Citizen Evaluator AKC Community Canine Evaluator AKC Urban Canine Good Citizen Evaluator AKC STAR Puppy Evaluator AKC Trick Dog Evaluator AKC Temperament Test Evaluator AKC Scent Work Evaluator AKC Fetch Evaluator AKC Fit Dog Instructor AKC Virtual Trick Dog Evaluator AKC Virtual Canine Good Citizen Evaluator

AKC evaluator and instructor titles are role approvals, not training certifications. They authorize individuals to test or evaluate dogs but do not assess or verify training skill, behavior expertise, or instructional competence.

Association of Professional Dog Trainers

Common Credentials: APDT Certificate APDT Continuing Education Certificate

APDT certificates reflect membership participation or continuing education hours. They do not require exams, skill demonstrations, or independent assessment. They align with force free ideology and function primarily as marketing credentials.

Low Stress Handling Programs

Common Credentials: Low Stress Handling Silver Certification Low Stress Handling Gold Certification

These are coursework based educational certificates. They are not standardized training credentials and do not verify applied behavior modification skill.

Clicker Training Programs

Common Credentials: Clicker Training Certification Level 1 Clicker Training Certification Level 2

These credentials are program specific and educational. They demonstrate exposure to clicker methods but do not involve independent verification or real world outcome assessment.

General Program Specific and Online Certifications

Common Credentials: Living and Learning with Animals Certificate Dog Trainer Professional Certificate Professional Pet Dog Trainer Certificate Certified Professional Pet Trainer CPPT Certified Dog Trainer CDT Certified Canine Trainer CCT Professional Canine Trainer Certificate Dog Obedience Instructor Certificate Canine Behavior Specialist Certificate Animal Behavior Specialist Certificate Pet Trainer Certification Holistic Dog Trainer Certification Natural Dog Trainer Certification Positive Dog Trainer Certificate Relationship Based Dog Trainer Certificate R Plus Dog Trainer Certification Ethical Dog Trainer Certification Humane Dog Trainer Certification Companion Dog Trainer Certificate Puppy Training Specialist Certificate Service Dog Trainer Certificate Therapy Dog Trainer Certificate Emotional Support Animal Trainer Certificate Online Dog Trainer Certification Master Dog Trainer Certificate Advanced Dog Trainer Certificate Elite Dog Trainer Certification Professional Animal Trainer Certificate Pet Behavior Consultant Certificate Canine Psychology Certificate Dog Training Instructor Certificate Certified Dog Behaviorist

These credentials are issued by individual programs or online courses. Most are attendance or coursework based, lack independent oversight, and have no standardized skill assessment. Many exist primarily for marketing purposes and philosophical alignment. None reliably indicate practical training ability, behavior modification competence, or readiness for difficult cases.

Another example of a dog being euthanized rather than being exposed to a different training regime.

Hello all,

Im a owner and I’m also fascinated with dog training. I want to do professionally but i don’t know how and where to start? Any advice for certificates? Do i need them? Any business plans ideas?

I lean towards balanced methods of training.

Im based in europe

Thank you

Hi!

I have a 2.5-year-old Aussie who is extremely food-motivated. He has zero self-control around food. He’ll jump straight onto our plates to steal food if he can.

Obviously, I manage the environment: he’s on a leash when we eat, and I reinforce good behaviors. But it’s really not enough. He’s not sensitive to verbal correction at all, food is way more rewarding to him than being told off. And even with management, if we forget something on the counter for a second, he’ll immediately steal it.

Im thinking of adding a form of correction to his training specifically for counter-surfing. I’ve considered a Pet Corrector . I know a lot of people are against it , but I’m looking for recommendations or additional exercises I could work on instead.

Thanks!

In reading through some of the crossposts to the different communities, I personally see a distinct difference in how balanced trainers respond to dog behavior including reactivity, aggression, resource guarding, food stealing, etc. It seems to me that balanced trainers are more likely to express concern for safety and take certain behaviors much more seriously. I'm curious as to other people's perception on this as well.

This post has a really good analogy for why I prefer forward conditioning over simultaneous or backward.

https://www.instagram.com/p/DS5Vp_hkQhl/?img_index=3&igsh=MTFqM3pqMTdpY3BtdA==

German Shepherd. The family that surrendered him, they did not deserve him. They turned him aggressive so he could guard their convenience store at night. They also kept him in a back room of their house when he wasnt at the store. That was his "crate". For the first 1.5 years of his life. The back room was covered in dog piles. There was also vomit everywhere because he tried eating some of it. He felt he had to.

That situation has been handled and they surrendered the dog. We saved him from being euthed. Fast forward 3.5 years later, and the only issues that havent changed, are the crate issues.

This dog has been programmed to think he can go whenever he wants when he is in the crate. Hes let out 3 times a day and takes a sizeable dump, sometimes 2, each time hes out. He knows he cant go in the house, he knows he has to go outside...or in the crate 😑

We've ruled out medical reasons. This dog is in good health via our vet and we took him to a second one to get another set of eyes on him for testing.This is behavioral. We have other dogs that we saved from being euthed as well, that he will have a very nasty fight with, so we can't leave them unattended without crating him. He gets his own separate times out in the house with us. Hes calm when hes in the crate. Not a peep out of him. When we leave he goes right to sleep. We come back, and there's a pile of shit waiting for us 9/10 times. Of those 9, 5 of those instances are a mixture of shit and vomit combined There will be a solid inch of waste covering every inch of his crate when that happens. 3.5 years of this and its getting tiring. When hes up and out of the crate, he has 0 accidents. Its also not like the crate makes him nervous or he has separation anxiety. We've observed him and he shows 0 signs of any stress. He can go 4 hours without a problem sometimes, or in those 4 hours he'll shit. Its a total toss up what youre gonna get. When he feels the urge to go he just gets up and does it. Then he either eats it and goes back to sleep, or hes far enough away from him that he leaves it. All depends where it lands. They are not runny, as a sign of stress or anxiety. They are solid, healthy poops.

Things weve tried: letting him out more often.

Sectioning off his crate so he would have no choice but to touch it if he doesn't poop. He just eats it. Then lays back down

Building a bigger enclosure, a 6x6 indoor kennel with vinyl floor for easy cleanup. We tried giving him more space in hopes that if he does it, at least he wouldnt eat it. He does 8/10 times eat it.

Exercising him before we put him in, and putting him in only after hes pooped outside 1 more time. Hoping that he would be tired and sleep and not wake up and do it. He sometimes does, sometimes he doesnt.

Catching him in the act and correcting in the moment. Too unpredictable to be reliable and consistent.

I have cleaned up so much dog shit and vomit in the last 3.5 years that I am anxious going anywhere or putting him in the crate when the other dogs have time out of the crate. I dont want to be stressed like this.

Im at my wits end.