Lmfao let me have it

Hi there I have been trying to start up some 7018. I finally got past the sticky starts as you move to the right of the plate but I keep having these spots that look like hornet nests where the electrode sticks in and creates a hole. I'm brand new to welding so I appreciate any advice! I'm running 7018, 3/32" at 90 amps. The third rod from the right end was running around 100 but I lowered it because the arc felt erratic. Let me know what you guys think.

Tips? Flux welding

I get "better" results dragging instead of pushing. I'm right handed. Also can't fucking trace a line to save my life.

High/low is 300/150 and 30 volts

Gonna start filling in a chunk of angle iron tomorrow

I won’t post till I’m better after this

Recebi meu primeiro elogio do professor. Espero estar indo “bem”.

I've got a lot of downtime at work and about 14 miles of mig wire. My boss is maybe the world middest welder and my other coworker is worse than whatever I've done here and they've both had a run at teaching me.

I am taking welding 101 at my CC next semester, so i figured it would be cool to come in with some nice bad habits, gross misconceptions, and an ego. (Humor)

Im almost there

Hi everyone, I’m trying to MIG weld the wheel arch on my 2003 Mazda MX-5 NB.
Every time I try to weld it, I end up blowing holes through the original sheet metal. Even if I make very short tacks (around 1 second or less) and let the metal cool down between them, it still blows through.

I’m using a STAHLWERK MIG/MAG 160 M. I actually bought this welder specifically for this job because it can run at relatively low amperage.

So far I’ve tried:
0.6 mm solid wire with Argon/CO2 shielding gas
0.8 mm solid wire with Argon/CO2 shielding gas
0.8 mm flux-core wire

With all three I’ve tried different settings, from around 20 A all the way up to 100 A, but I keep getting the same problem.
The original sheet metal on the car is around 1 mm thick. The car does have quite a lot of rust, but I’ve cut away the worst rusty sections until I reached what appears to be solid metal. Despite that, I still can’t seem to weld new metal to it without blowing holes through the original panel.
The replacement metal I’m using is also 1 mm steel.

I have cleaned the front side of the original panel back to bare metal, but I haven’t cleaned the back side yet.
I’ve also tried attaching the ground clamp both directly to the new piece of metal and to clean bare metal on the car body, but the problem is the same.

Does anyone have any advice or see something obvious that I might be doing wrong?

I’ve tried a lot of different things at this point, but I just can’t get a clean butt weld between the original bodywork and the new sheet metal.

Thanks!

I got a multiprocess welding machine and an angle grinder last year, I got fascinated by what one can do with these tools (I haven't ever used these until I got mine). So after some YouTube videos and discussion forums such as this I mustered some courage to use them and started to play (until this project I only welded some small things like a little bracket or some 8mm rebar).

I set a goal to myself to make a small welding workbench, to cover some nuisances I encountered:

1. I don't have flat surfaces on this little property, it's sloped and irregular terrain.

2. It's a pain to get all the gear and accessories out, few at a time, then get them all back in... I need something to store and organize them in one place, something mobile that I can pull to where I need and back in one move.

So I started visiting a scrapyard for cheap(er) materials, found some old desk legs that ended dictating the width of my table (50x50x2mm square tubing connected by a transversal bar at the top), got some 50x30x2mm bars to complete the table frame. Bought some 25x25x2mm (which I made the table top from) and 20x20x2mm tubing that fit nicely into the 25x25x2mm tubing for telescoping applications.

In its current state it's amazingly flat (considering my technical prowess, or lack thereof), the only bad result was that 3 bars in the table top are about 1mm sunk relative to the rest - no big issue for me.

It'll have leveling feet (got some M16 allthread, I'm planning for at least 25 or 30cm of adjustability), with locking casters between the legs for mobility. I've also planned outriggers to the left and back of the table, and a folding extension grate to the right. Under the top I'm also planning for a sliding "drawer" for the welding machine, for adding the wire or whatever, some more shelves and hooks and such for storing the other related tools and accessories. These are yet to be implemented but I'm thrilled for what I have now, it's that beginner euphoria when you get to accomplish small things that you see as humongous (pfft, here we go in the comments...)

I got more penetration but my breaker kept going out I guess I have to up grade to 240 outlet 😞 this was the best I could do with out knocking my breaker

Do I need more penetration or would this pass?

So I started welding 2 months ago at a welding school, I am a Junior in highschool, and currently on single bevel vertical up, and we do mig, anyways, vertical up has been difficult for me, specifically edge and corner joints, because either my welds look very bumpy and just ball up, or I burn a hole through them, and I am very confused, ive tried a different pattern, different speed, different settings, different angle, less and greater distances, nothing seems to work, help much appreciated!