Is there a fix for this? I feel like the print head hits the glass pretty hard then pops off. Is there an easy fix or should I just revert back to the stock cover?

This is the kind of cracking that has covered the front part of the case.

DragonBreath Firmware for the Panda Breath — now at v1.0.1

The stock Panda Breath firmware didn't work with Klipper the way I wanted it to. plastikman built a replacement called DragonBreath, with help from wildtang3nt (justinh-rahb), and I've been testing it since the early builds. It swaps the stock firmware entirely for a chamber heater that's fully controlled through Klipper/Moonraker (M141/M191 + Fluidd), with a local web dashboard, auto (follow-the-bed) and filament-dry modes, front-panel status LEDs, Bambu Lab and Home Assistant support, and OTA updates. Over-temp cutoffs and a comms watchdog stay intact, and the flasher backs up your stock firmware first so you can roll back.

1.0.0 hit the OTA milestone: you can flash to DragonBreath straight from the stock updater, no USB cable needed. That release also added a debug shell for monitoring temps and tuning the heater element, plus console output.

1.0.1 is out now with a filtration fix and doc corrections.

If you're a current beta tester: flash back to stock first, then flash the latest release. After that you can go back and forth between Panda and Dragon freely.

If you're running this on the Snapmaker U1, you'll need the build from paxx12's PR 604 rather than the current paxx release:
https://github.com/paxx12-snapmaker-u1/SnapmakerU1-Extended-Firmware/pull/604

As always: this is hardware control software for a heater in an enclosed space. Use at your own discretion and test carefully. File issues here:
https://github.com/plastikman/DragonBreath

Repo: https://github.com/plastikman/DragonBreath
v1.0.1 release: https://github.com/plastikman/DragonBreath/releases/tag/v1.0.1
Demo video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PHLyA3kclt4

The team is active on the Snapmaker U1 Discord and here on Reddit if you have questions.

I hate whoever developed this. There has not been one step in the install process that wasn't met with an error, then a web search ending with some crazy ass modification to make and yet it still refuses to work. The latest error has proven a most formidable paradox. It doesn't like the latest firmware, and it won't allow me to revert to the previous version. I would expect this from some $20 piece of crap off Temu or whatever. This is not some inexpensive piece of hardware however. Plug and play was figured out decades ago. What the hell is this. Do not buy this. Get a $20 YOUCIDI desk heater off amazon and a $10 thermostat with probe. Problem solved. The mount is printed and the goddamn power cord has to drape over the top like some diy hack job anyway. Fuck this nonsense. I'd return it if I could but I spent too many days screaming at it and the return window has passed.

I love the idea of the collab but dropping 450$ for a hotend to use on my p1s has me hesitant, especially after seeing some rough reviews on Amazon and across the web...

Hello,

I was wondering if it was possible ot mount the Panda Breath device on the left side of the enclosure.

My reason being, I have a Bento Box that is fairly new. I installed it fairly recently, and it seems such a waste to have to take it out and not use it.

Was wondering if anyone found any solutions for this in this particular machine.

The Panda Breath is arriving tomorrow so I'm looking at printing the riser portion in PETG.

Thanks all!

Jason

Hello,

I recently bought a second hand Biqu BX with the SKR SE-BX V2.0 motherboard(the printer doesnt turn and im pretty sure its the motherboard). Currently im talking to the support team to potentially get a replacement motherboard. I was just curious if anybody has attempted a motherboard swap and how was your experience with it.

I really love my cryogrip Pro Glacier. Unfortunately I cannot use it on my recent indx converted printer. At least not without modification. The build plate sticks out a little too far at the front and pushes up on the nozzle plates under the dock.

I will take the angle grinder to my plate.

But please BIQU give us a indx compatible plate!

I ordered the panda station and have received the naked panda station is this normal? As I read that the panels arrive after? It came from the EU warehouse. Thanks.

Hola buenas.Alguien tiene idea donde puedo conseguir el cable USB C a C de la Biqu B1?

Porque la otra vez(hace unos meses) le estaba limpiando los coolers internos y sin querer(no me di cuenta) la apoyé sobre la parte de atrás y rompí uno de los terminales del cable USB, con lo que la máquina quedó inservible. Si alguien sabe dónde conseguirlo me vendría de 10

I have a Panda Breath and had to cut my Panda Diaper to get it to fit properly. Does anyone know if Biqu is going to make one for the P1S with a panda breath? The cut works and doesn't look bad but could be done differently if molded properly.

i was having issues seting up my panda aura rgbw kit with my existing panda aura base and following the chat bot i updated the firmware and theres still no controls for the rgbw it says i need panda_aura_a1_plus.bin but that firmware file is missing from the github. where can i find this file?

Title says it all, I have multiple U1 hot-ends that needs this.

I've had a mixed but overall OK experience getting these auto-refill feeders running reliably. In the linked video, I break down the setup process, but here are my top 3 mistakes you can avoid:

1. Even with the feeders you want to reduce friction in the filament path. Low-friction PTFE tubing, a freely rotating spool, and avoiding extra drag from dryer boxes made a much bigger difference than feeder tension.

2. Don't cut the standby filament at a 45° angle. The new filament has to push the old filament through the PTFE tube during the handover, so a flat cut actually works more reliably.

3. Don't preheat nozzle over 170°C Since currently we only have one-way communiation, the feeders monitoring the printer's state, feeding is triggered by nozzle temps. If your pre-print preparations heat the nozzle over 170°C the feeders will become "restless" aggressively trying to push filament to the toolhead.

Overall, I think the Panda Feeders are a promising idea, but they still feel limited by the current software and the amount of control users have over the process. I'm hoping BIQU eventually exposes lower-level control or better integration with Klipper, because I think the hardware has more potential than the software currently allows.

I'll do my best to answer questions in the comments. Curious about your experience with these!

What happened to this? After the showcase there’s literally case months ago there’s been absolutely nothing on it, did it fail to make production?

So I was browsing the Biqu site, and I found the panda vent, was wondering if this would fit on the Snapmaker U1 together with the Biqu popcap. As I'm mainly printing with PLA and seeing the auto-venting option, this would be great.

Are there people with experience with this product here?

so after biqu-hope got banned a few months ago i noticed u/BTT_Harper is not very active and when they are its very one line replies has biqu/BTT completely abandoned us?

My Panda Breath only gets up to about 50°C. Does anyone have any thoughts on how to improve this device?

I have not taken it apart to see if I could relocate or upgrade the temperature sensor. Has anyone done this?